topshop unique

So now that London Fashion Week AW16 is over, and it’s about time we get to the reviewing and reflecting! I might be doing a Milan Fashion Week review too, seeing as I’m currently in Italy (it seems rather fitting). AW16 seems like it’s going to be a good one, especially in the footwear department. So let’s check out what happened at Brewer Street Car Park… (All images via Vogue.co.uk)

Alexander McQueen // Anya Hindmarch // ASHISH // Burberry // Holly Fulton // House of Holland // Mary Katrantzou // Molly Goddard // Mulberry // Richard Malone // Topshop UNIQUE // Vivienne Westwood

~ ALEXANDER McQUEEN – RATING: 8/10 ~

Another thing you should know by now from my past reviews, is that I love intricate detailing that takes clothing and fashion to a new level of an art form. I love precision and beading and embellishments and all of the small details that come together to create something transformative… and all of that is within the Alexander McQueen AW16 collection.

It’s very feminine in terms of shapes and styles, with lace bras and sheer fabrics being a key focus, but it still has that toughness running through which I think designers have started to do more and more over the years. It’s yet another collection that hints to space and all things dreamlike, with symbolic moons and stars dotted throughout.

It’s regal and every piece has a sense of presence, and I think that’s most definitely true to McQueen. A big congratulations to Sarah Burton on a wonderful collection, especially since she is heavily pregnant… incredible!

~ ANYA HINDMARCH – RATING: 9/10 ~

After becoming slightly uninterested in the whole ‘novelty’ fashion theme, Anya Hindmarch has won me back again with a very tech based, Tetris and Pacman inspired collection that makes for a good inbetween with novelty and good old, high fashion.

First of all, I’ll talk about how incredible the show was (on live stream)… the set had moving Tetris pieces that created and an incredible backdrop to the cast of models, which were walking down the catwalk to a beat that turned into a computer generated voice before they lined up for the final presentation.

It was really quite interesting and I love the question of “Do computers dream when they sleep?” that went along with it. In terms of the actual collection, I also loved it. Like I said, it was a great balance of novelty and true designs all of course with a classic Hindmarch twist.

There were Pacman handbags, Minecraft inspired faux fur and a nod to previous collections with the fried egg symbols and the sticker covered shoes. It was all around, a wonderful collection and such a great show, that will be sure to be a big hit next season.

~ ASHISH – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

Gah, I really do love ASHISH but I think this season was lacking in something. I really love the crayon box inspired idea, with each look being top-to-toe one colour, but it just doesn’t feel as dramatic and exciting as usual. I won’t lie, I’d still like to own most of it, but unfortunately (and I am being very subjective here), this isn’t my favourite collection of the season which is rare for me and ASHISH. It’s a bold move though, with everything being so simple, and for that, I applaud Gupta.

~ BURBERRY – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

With the news of Burberry becoming one of the first brands to transition from the usual fashion week schedule of see now, buy later, it’s interesting to see what’s in store next. What I think is interesting, is that every look is quite different. There is of course the overall theme of masculinity mixing with femininity, slouchy seventies etc… but I would say that usually with Burberry, you can spot out pieces in different variations.

Perhaps this is to do with the change… with people needing things that are totally new. One big thing you can spot is texture; there are sequins and heavily embroidered garments. It is different, but it’s still very Burberry and I’m sure it will be a big hit to those people who get to have a chance at pre-ordering their favourites.

~ HOLLY FULTON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

Another designer who always sticks to her routers, showing a definite signature style throughout is Holly Fulton. Although inspired mainly by David Inshaw’s painting “The Badminton Game”, I can still feel those space age style themes running throughout in a slightly mechanical style… whether that’s just my eyes, I don’t know, but I like it nonetheless.

Intricate, folksy style prints across wide A-line pieces are mixed in with organza creates a lot of drama and activity to a collection that could have been a lot more basic. I love the muted pink tones (I’m a big fan of them right now) so that small addition definitely wins me over.

~ HOUSE OF HOLLAND – RATING: 8/10 ~

A meet in the middle of seventies and twenties inspired pieces, I think I’m starting to fall back in love with HOH. There’s flapper inspired sequin dresses (you know how I love sequins, but really, does anyone do them better than ASHISH? Actually, maybe they can this season…?!) and laid back fits in the form of loose jumpsuits and oversized robe style jackets.

There’s also a hint to the ‘space’ trend that has already started popping up all over (we saw it with Versace’s men’s collection). I would say it’s a nice nod to the late, great, David Bowie, but that was only a small portion of his career so we should take note of that. I think this collection is one of my favourite HOH collections for a long while now.

~ MARY KATRANTZOU – RATING: 8/10 ~

I sort of fell out of love with Katrantzou over the past two seasons but I think this one has won me back, surprisingly. Although there are strong, western cowboy themes throughout, all I can think of when I look at each look is; disco. It’s a party collection at heart and that’s proven by the flashy metallics and bold star prints.

Of course the shirt dresses were a big focus, and they will most definitely be an inspiration for the high street, there’s a lot of other things to be looking out for too… like the faux fur coats which is super interesting to see Mary focusing on, especially in such a bold manner. It really works though and I LOVE it. It’s such a fun collection, that you can still class as beautiful and ethereal, just like last season.

~ MOLLY GODDARD – RATING: 8/10 ~

I love seeing what Molly has to offer because it’s always so genuine and you can tell that so much love and genuine creativity is put into her work. It’s also love to see such a diverse casting of models too… it’s just refreshing. Everything she does is refreshing and I love that.

If I were to personally put a pin into what the collection is to me… it’s a bit like the 2010 version of Alice In Wonderland. It’s dark, mysterious but still playful and girly. There’s bright pastel tones in the form of puffy dresses, but there’s still the full, deep textures and darker shades. It’s a really lovely collection and I’m still totally obsessed with her signature style.

~ MULBERRY – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I feel as if this collection will cause some form of controversy regarding the heritage of Mulberry and its previous collections because as you can see, it’s definitely something new… but is that really a problem? In my opinion, no. I think it’s really refreshing to see something new from such a brand, no matter what we’re used to.

It’s still sleek and streamlined and there are still nods to the shapes that we’re used to, but it feels lighter and I love that. I also love the shoes – I think that’s one thing I’ve noticed across the whole of LFW – AW16 is going to be a good season for footwear.

~ RICHARD MALONE (Fashion East) – RATING: 8/10 ~

Malone is definitely a designer to keep your eyes on. I’ve mentioned many times before but I love streamlined collections that are simple with not too much fuss, yet they still pack a punch, and this is definitely one of them. I absolutely love the use of stripes and shapes. It’s almost nautical, especially with the different shades of blue and the bright yellow breaking things up. I really do love it, and I’ll definitely be looking more into his work.

~ TOPSHOP UNIQUE – RATING: 8/10 ~

With Topshop comes a very similar colour palette to what we saw over with Holly Fulton. Dreamy, woodland colours (and prints) with a strong balance of monochrome at the same time. It’s deep, it’s dark, it’s mysterious and it definitely pulls you in… and dare I say it, a few of those dresses could be classed as sexy. It’s a strong collection and it shows that Topshop are finally finding their UNIQUE feet.

~ VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – RATING: 7/10 ~

When I was watching the show, my first thought was “It’s a marmite collection – you either love it, or you hate it”, so when the Style.com review says that too… well, then I guess that’s exactly how to put it. It’s a classic Westwood collection once again, but that’s nothing new. Every Vivienne Westwood show has classic pieces that you can pick out in each line up.

The shows are rare for that because although you can obviously pick out similarities, it always ends up looking so different with such a different feel. There’s the classic neck lines, there’s the outerwear that hasn’t aged a day and there’s the draping… but it’s all new.

Personally I believe there are nods to the cyber world, a bit like Anya Hindmarch, but then I might just be picking up on similar prints and patterns. It all adds up though… every small detail goes towards the next season as a whole, so I’m sure this collection will influence it.

What did you think of London Fashion Week AW16? Are you excited about what’s in store? Let me know in the comments!

It’s that time of the year… the fashion month is coming to a close, all my thoughts are in my notebook and I’m ready for my big London Fashion Week SS16 review to be shared with the world! It’s a bit longer than usual mainly because I’ve really started to dig a little deeper into each collection rather than just say what I like about each piece. I hope you like it and to make things easier, I’ve added some handy links for you to skip to certain designers… enjoy! (All marvellous images are via VOGUE.co.uk)

Anya Hindmarch // Bora Aksu // Burberry Prorsum // Christopher Kane // Erdem // Fyodor Golan // Holly Fulton // House of Holland // JW Anderson // Mary Katrantzou // Molly Goddard // Paul Smith // Peter Pilotto // Topshop UNIQUE

~ ANYA HINDMARCH – RATING: 6/10 ~

Part of me wants to love this collection, but part of me is realising that novelties are simply just, novelties. Anya Hindmarch once again put the ordinary in luxury with logo covered handbags from familiar UK brands like John Lewis, Nationwide, Mothercare and Boots (Boots boots… get it?).

Of course it’s clever and it works well but do we really want to see another novelty collection of designer handbags? It’s a bit like Moschino’s latest ranges… it’s fun, quirky and it works well, but is it really enough? RATING: 6/10

~ BORA AKSU – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I’d say for SS16, Bora Aksu took a slightly masculine, “equestrian” route. Although it still has it’s mainly feminine routes with neutral shades of soft flowing tulle. It’s almost so neutral it could be classed as failry bridal which works out well seeing as the other colours that are included are combined into floral prints and textures.

But then, as I mentioned, the more masculine themes of dressage come through (although I could be totally wrong), with tightly belted blazers and buttoned up blouses. Overall the collection is perfect for spring and summer but personally (and subjectively) I wasn’t overly as excited as previous seasons. RATING: 7/10

~ BURBERRY PRORSUM – RATING: 9/10 ~

Burberry are one classic brand full of heritage with an innovative plan. New ideas never seem to fail, whether that’s on the catwalk, or off. This rather dark SS16 collection was launched not only at LFW but also, on Snapchat.

If you know Burberry, you’ll know how they harness the online world so it’s really interesting to see. It’s also interesting to see how the collection that was broadcasted over Snapchat is the one that is rather wearable and versatile… you see? 💰

Full of intricate shapes and textures, biker jackets and rucksacks it’s definitely a seller. The use of mesh and tulle make up for the lack of summery colours for summery layering. It’s bound to be an SS16 favourite for everyone. RATING: 9/10

~ CHRISTOPHER KANE – RATING: 8/10 ~

Inspired by repair from old to new, Christopher’s Kane’s collection is another beauty. Full of colour amongst darkness, artistic looking shapes and details (inspired by sculptor John Chamberlain) and scraps of different fabrics; it’s a beautiful mess.

Neon brights to match the emerging SS15 trends, and a hint of tailoring. It’s artistic and it definitely has me hooked… just like any collection with a meaning does! RATING: 8/10

~ ERDEM – RATING: 8/10 ~

I often forget Erdem when it comes to talking about designers but I’m honestly always impressed. I’ve noticed a lot of monochrome for next summer and Erdem has impressed me the most. The collection is dark and mysterious… as if every girl (look/model) has a strong story to tell about how she got here.

Well, actually, we already know that… by boat (yup, I believe a boat was part of the dramatic performance). There was a softer side though, flowing tulle in pastels with soft floral embroidery scattered all over. It’s a beautiful collection and you can definitely admire it as artwork. RATING: 8/10

~ FYODOR GOLAN – RATING: 10/10 ~

The collection is expressive and fun and is a perfect fit for a “summer party girl” with bright neon shades throughout each look, shimmery metallics and fun daytime florals on transparent PVC. The classic digital style from Golan’s latest collections are still a key feature with robots hidden throughout.

It’s a great example of the “wearable art” trend that has been floating around, with a nod to the Great Wave of Kanagawa. It’s as if each looks is a different life form with such varying artistic visions… but somehow, it flows together beautifully. It’s as if each girl (look/model) is on the same mission, but they’re taking on the task in their own individual way. RATING: 10/10

~ HOLLY FULTON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

This season brought familiarity with a twist from Holly Fulton. Full of classic Fulton features like applique and sleek shapes. It was slightly different though, with denim jackets and neon brights. It felt full of glamour but with a casual edge to it. It even had the slight familiar vibes of the 2015 seventies trend.

Apparently the collection was inspired by surrealist artists Eileen Agar, which makes sense. Surrealism after all is about the familiar… but a little bit off. RATING: 7.5/10

~ HOUSE OF HOLLAND – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I know what you’re thinking… that’s not House of Holland/! But it is… depending on who you are, depends on whether you would put “sadly” before “But it is…”, so I’ll leave it for you to decided. The shapes are familiar, they’re laid-back and loose… nothing too extreme, but the dresses are free of cartoonish prints and neon brights… everything is slightly more mature and intricate.

I’m probably exaggerating a little because the fun is still there with the striped socks (hey, look who’s trendy?), mixed prints, faux fur and colourful bags. It’s as if House of Holland has started something new… perhaps a gradual transition? RATING: 7.5/10

~ JW ANDERSON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

It’s interesting to know why designers do certain things especially when a set style has been noticed across other collections so when I read what Anderson looked into upon creating this collection, the answer of “survival” intrigued me. Tight knitted pieces (I think the figure hugging silhouette will be big for SS16) and overly padded suits that resemble army uniforms and armour are a key focus point.

Feminine pieces like ruffled tea dresses and even rather skimpy bras reflect the power of a woman on her own (sans armour etc). Each piece ammits a sense of power that translates to every kind of woman. It’s not the usual kind of collection that I’d be interested in but the meaning behind it draws me in, a bit like Christopher Kane. RATING: 7.5/10

~ MARY KATRANTZOU – RATING: 8/10 ~

For me SS16 at MK brought the “best bits”. It’s a simple and sleek selection of designs, all with features that are classic Katrantzou. My favourite pieces are of course the highly detailed and embellished party dresses. They feel familiar but in a more exciting way. Although I believe most of the detailing is fairly floral, it reminds me of far away galaxies with the shimmer and sparkle. It’s a perfect party collection and a great move for Mary Katrantzou. Plus, after reading up on why she’s shifted away from digitalised styles, it’s made me appreciate her work a lot more. RATING: 8/10

~ MOLLY GODDARD – RATING: 9/10 ~

After watching the latest episode of Alexa Chung’s VOGUE series, I had to include Molly’s collection. She seems so genuine and her success is no surprise. For her SS16 presentation, Molly opted for a sandwich factory theme (perhaps a nod to the fashion industry?) with her signature tulle dresses that I would die to own.

Among the tulle and bread crusts were tartan and ruffles in light and loving colours to suit the usual British summertime. Smock style midi dresses also featured among the intricate ruffles. It’s a perfect little range of perfect colours and shapes. I really would love to know about the sandwiches though… RATING: 9/10

~ PAUL SMITH – RATING: 8/10 ~

A rather 1980s inspired collection comes from the one and only Paul Smith. It’s a very simple collection as usual but that’s what I like to see. It’s wearable but it still looks interesting and eye-catching. It features 80s tailoring and bright block colours in satins and drapy dresses.

A print that I have noticed across several collections so far is floral pointillism. Small, intricate and dotty, it adds that note of interest and finer details that Smith is known for and it will of course be a big wearable hit. RATING: 8/10

~ PETER PILOTTO – RATING: 9/10 ~

I couldn’t quite pin down the inspiration behind this collection but for some reason I keep getting pulled back to the technical side of fashion. It’s as if the designer duo took what they knew and actually applied it to the physical designs… I could be totally wrong though.

It’s another collection with that sort of uniform/armour feeling to it. Strapped jackets and white stitching to highlight the making of darker simple pieces. Sporty like zip up tops that could have come from some sort of dystopian movie… it’s such a jumble as everything sticks to Pilotto’s feminine and signature style. I’ll call it a pastel fashion army for now. RATING: 9/10

~ TOPSHOP UNIQUE – RATING: 7/10 ~

If I were to review this from a very subjective, personal view, then I’d probably say I wasn’t that bothered… but stepping away from that I think it’s rather interesting. It still feels like a Topshop show, edgy and casual with those hi-low budget vibes but this season for me… it seems more like a designer show. It feels somewhat separate to the Topshop brand we all know and love, but in a fitting way.

I believe it’s probably the sharp tailoring that does it and the almost Valentino-esque numbers. The collection is obviously 80s inspired (a decade on from SS15) with broad shouldered pieces and big voluminous hair to match. Like I said, it’s not necessarily to my personal taste but I can definitely see it’s potential. RATING: 7/10

What did you think about the collections from London Fashion Week SS16? Let me know in the comments!