sustainability

As the end of the year (and the decade) draws to a close, I thought I would round things off by answering some questions I’ve received lately. The end of this year has been one of work, activism and personal-related growth which explains the lack of longer-form content I’ve managed to publish as of late. 2019 has been a big one, so, let’s talk about it…

WHAT I WORE: Faux Fur Coat (Jumble sale – old) // Carhartt Dungarees (Depop) // Ruffle Blouse (Vintage Kilo Sale) // Teddy Jumper (Old) // Butterfly Sneakers (PO-ZU)* // Hat (Hand-me-down)

What are you most proud of this year?

My confidence. At the beginning of the year, I was only just starting to tip my toe into the waters of public speaking, attending events and taking part in direct forms of activism. I remember being extremely nervous to take part in my first demo (which was about protecting the rights of garment workers in Bangladesh), so much so that I lost my appetite on the day.

Since then, I feel so much more at ease when it comes to speaking on panels or putting myself in vulnerable positions for the causes that are close to my heart. I’ve realised that I do know what I’m talking about and that the reason I’m invited to speak and have my voice is heard is that people believe in my work and trust my point of view. 

It’s been a huge lesson in the fact that practice makes (almost) perfect. The more you push yourself to do something, the easier it becomes. Once you’ve pushed past that initial barrier of anxiety and nerves, you won’t have to go through it again.

It’s just been a very big year for me both personally and for my work. I’ve done more than I ever have before and that’s exactly what I wanted out of the year. 

What started your interest in sustainability and climate change?

Although I may not have answered this question directly on my blog before, I’ve answered it a dozen or more times this year in various interviews. The word ‘interest’ has started to baffle me though because shouldn’t we all have an interest in the climate? It’s about all of us, not just certain individuals who seem to have grasped the concept.

But to answer this question in more simple terms, my sustainable journey started in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse when I watched The True Cost documentary for the first time. It was my lightbulb moment that started the line of questioning which has since led to me realising that we are facing a climate emergency and that big industry and those in power play a huge role in it.

Fashion will always be my main interest but in educating myself about one aspect of life, I have in turn realised the true scope of so many issues that are at play.

What’s inspiring you right now?

As much as I’ve spoken about how we need to move away from relying on youth activists and praising them rather than acting on their words, I have to say that the clear cut, no-nonsense attitudes of people my age and younger is just so incredibly refreshing. We will not take inaction and we will not stand for injustice. 

For as long as I know there are these strong, powerful voices from people who are sticking to their guns and not taking half-hearted commitments from those who can enact real change, I will feel supported and motivated to keep going.

I’ve also been inspired by fellow digital artists who are using their talents to spread information in creative ways, such as the duo from Adapt and collectives such as No Planet No Fun. The #ProtestByDesign hashtag has also been really enjoyable to follow.

  LOCATION: Paris, France 🇫🇷

How did you become an activist and get such a big platform?

I think I became an activist accidentally. I suppose before participating in any form of direct action, I would have described or seen myself as an advocate for certain issues but the activist label never felt right until I was on the streets and actually practising what I was preaching.

It feels like the right term for me, especially as somebody with an online presence because I often get categorised as an influencer and I’ve always been unsure about what that means. I don’t want it to implicate that I’m selling products constantly and that my platforms are like billboards; I want people to know that I’m doing a lot more than just tweeting links to petitions and reposting news articles.

In terms of having a ‘big platform’, I have the past year and a half to thank as I’ve seen the biggest amount of growth in the shortest space of time. I’ve been fortunate enough to have received some incredible features and interviews from various publications and platforms which have enabled many more new people to discover me.

I also think there’s a growing need from social media users to find the types of people who align with their values and who are able to easily educate them on a relatable level and that’s exactly what I’m aiming to do.

Do you have plans for 2020?

I’m officially a rent-paying individual so, I’m expecting a lot of my time will now be focused on generating an income as an artist! But at the same time as that, I want to continue going with the flow and learning as I go along. That’s one huge benefit to being self-employed; I’m not restricted which means I’m able to explore whatever avenues I want to.

I’ve been thinking about how I could start to use my knowledge as an activist to advise others and to ensure that the term ‘climate emergency’ isn’t used loosely and that change genuinely happens, no matter what it might look like. This is thanks to my experience of attending Climate Launch Pad in Amsterdam, which made me realise that my voice could be used in more ways than it already is.

In terms of solid plans? I’ve been confirmed as an ambassador for an upcoming event next summer alongside some other activists who I already love and admire, so, that’s something to look forward to.

If you have any more questions for me, my comments are always open for you to use…

Thank you for your continued support over this past year. Here’s to another which hopefully brings about the radical action we’re looking for…

Arctic permafrost is rapidly melting.
France is sweltering in record-breaking heat.
India is suffering from severe droughts and water shortages.
Mozambique is recovering from a devastating cyclone.
The UK is being hit with heaving rain and flooding.
Guadalajara faces 1.5 metres of hail in summertime.

We only have 11 years.
We only have 5 years.
We can’t go above 2 degrees Celsius of warming.
100 companies are responsible for 71% of global emissions.

It’s an Emergency.

So, recycle.
Reuse.
Don’t drive.
Use a reusable bottle.
Avoid single-use plastic.
Shop small.
Shop organic.
Save water.
Go vegan.

Be hopeful.

But it’s hard to be hopeful, right?

On my journey of eco-awareness, I’m currently at the stage of beginning to accept that perhaps, we don’t have 11 years. Maybe, it’s actually too late. Maybe, this is the beginning of the end.

In fact, I’d say ’11 years’ is becoming more of a metaphorical statement. In the academic (and what from what I’m gathering, slightly controversial) paper that gave me the last push to start writing this, ‘Deep Adaptation: A Map for Navigating Climate Tragedy‘ written by Professor Jem Bendell, it states that the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) which made this 11 year claim we’re all focusing on, has a history of underestimating the rate of environmental changes, due to how the panel works over long periods of time in conducting reports.

This means that 11 years is likely far too optimistic. Some suggest we should be looking at 5 years, or even less; with things like melting permafrost (a layer of soil that remains frozen for long stretches of time) that risks releasing 3 gigatonnes of methane, with a far stronger effect on climate than CO2, we could face the real effects of the climate crisis in the next decade.

(I’m hesitant to say we most likely will face this. Nothing is certain, of course. If anything, we have that to cling on to.)

With information like this being fed to us in the palms of our hands on a daily basis (thanks to the privilege of being able to educate ourselves with smartphones and access to the internet), it’s no surprise that ‘eco-anxiety’ is on the rise and papers like that of Professor Bendell’s are now becoming something we have to read with a sense of caution.

Is it healthy for us to constantly be bombarded with news and statistics that suggest that we are currently amidst the world’s Sixth Mass Extinction? Will we read something insightful and educational or will we come away feeling distraught and emotionally exhausted?

It’s only recently that I have reached this point of acceptance and that what I read and learn has become less a tool for inspiring positive change but more a way of coping. Although I don’t want this piece to become pro-one specific solution or example of how to move forward, this shift in how I’m approaching the climate conversation has most certainly derived from my experiences with Extinction Rebellion.

In the Extinction Rebellion handbook, ‘This Is Not A Drill‘, the chapter on ‘Climate Sorrow’ by Susie Orbach (a British psychotherapist), resonated with me greatly.

As much as I talk openly about climate issues (whether they be fashion-related or about Earth, as a whole), I still find it hard to genuinely get a grasp on what it all means. I’m fortunate that living in the UK, the effects of the climate emergency have yet to hit with full force which means I’m not seeing it on my doorstep, yet.

We still see weather over 30 degrees Celsius as a ‘heatwave’. We still see storms as a burst of ‘heavy rain’. This makes it hard for me to imagine what our lives will become and (sometimes) to truly believe in what I’m saying.

But there is enough evidence to now suggest that it is too late; that those heatwaves and the risk of flooding we face are just a glimpse of what’s to come; that when I’m 50 and the UK has supposedly reached its net-zero target (somehow, even though the Government is happy to watch the expansion of Heathrow Airport go ahead and to reject all recommendations that could ensure a more sustainable fashion industry), the world will be changed forever; that the technologically advanced future we’d envisioned with flying cars could become one of starvation and war.

Professor Bendell also wrote in ‘This Is Not A Drill’ and a line that I’ve come back to several times over and that has managed to make me cry on more than one occasion, is this –

“Most of all I now grieve for the young, and the more beautiful world they will never inherit”.

I am coming to terms with this. I am coming to terms with the uncertainty of my future. I am coming to terms with the fact that the uncertainty of my future is no longer about the ‘big life stuff’ (my plans, my career, my hopes, my dreams) but about the uncertainty of our existence and how painful it may become.

I essentially, feel hopeless.

Yet, I’m not giving up. I believe there is a difference. To give up is to look the other way and carry on, business as usual. It is to let those in power, off the hook. To feel hopeless is to accept your feelings and go through the motions of experiencing grief for what we have lost already and for what we will lose in that future of uncertainty. Giving up is letting that hopelessness win.

In line with this, it’s known that when we face a tragic event or overcome trauma, we are often forever changed by what took place. Take my own personal experience – I am the survivor of four major earthquakes that happened in Italy during 2016.

You can read my full account a few days after the initial shock here but essentially, I have lived through seeing my life flash before my eyes. I feared for my life. As I crawled under a table as the earth roared from beneath me, I feared that I would never meet my youngest nephew who had recently been born. I feared so much and then it was over. I was safe.

Admittedly, I wasn’t a whole new person when I moved away from that situation (I put this down to being extremely fortunate in that I came away without a scratch) but I remember that feeling of wanting to take on the world with a new sense of ambition. If I could survive that, I could survive anything.

So, it makes me wonder; can we preemptively take on the world with a new sense of purpose, if we can already see the disaster about to happen? You can’t predict an earthquake happening in the dead of night but you can predict that we have a decade to lessen the effects of a climate catastrophe.

Can we use that hopelessness that would usually happen in the midst of an ongoing tragedy, to prepare us? Can we use it to experience the next decade at its fullest potential? Can we start to appreciate the Earth for all that it is, when we know we may lose our place on it?

WHAT I WORE: Floral Blouse (Vintage Kilo Sale) // Carhartt Dungarees (Depop) // Butterfly Sneakers (Po-Zu)*

There is power in feeling hopeless because it gives you time to mourn, grieve and then spend your time wisely. How you do that, is up to you. Whether you join a Rebellion; continue to make lifestyle changes that are not only beneficial to the planet that we may leave behind but beneficial to you and your health, or whether you simply keep these conversations going on in your personal circles in order to help others come to terms with climate sorrow and this sense of hopelessness that is all too easy to become overwhelmed by – making the most out of what we have, is one of the best things we can do.

I’ll be on the streets; singing, dancing, holding hands and uniting with others who are all in the same (pink) boat.

After all, if what we’re facing – impending doom, an apocalypse; whatever name you want to give it – is already making us want to give up, why on Earth would we want to make our remaining time on this planet, any more unbearable?

If you are in need of support when it comes to eco-anxiety, activism and anything else related to this topic, there are wellbeing resources available from Extinction Rebellion, as well as XR Coaching and the Good Samaritans Crisis Helpline.

Last year and into 2019, the UK’s parliamentary Environmental Audit Committee has been investigating the sustainability of the UK fashion industry, leading up to the final report which includes recommendations for the Government, who have two months to respond.

The Fixing Fashion report can be read in full, here.

For those of you who missed my initial piece on the inquiry, I would highly recommend going back to take a read. I interviewed Mary Creagh MP, who is the Chair of the Environmental Audit Committee. In the piece, I discussed the purpose of the inquiry and some of the main issues and concerns being raised as evidence was being put forward.

Now, after over six months, the final report – Fixing Fashion – has been released. Although the Government does have two months to respond, it is under no obligation to accept the recommendations suggested in the report – which would be a crushing blow, considering the fact that the majority of the issues raised throughout the inquiry haven’t exactly been surprising.

It would also be a defeat because, as the report states, in the UK, we are buying more clothes than any other European country; therefore, we are also responsible for a greater environmental impact, than any other European country – which of course, doesn’t just affect the UK, alone.

If you’re less aware of some of the key issues we’re facing when it comes to effects of fashion in the UK – specifically, fast-fashion -, here are some of the main facts to remember:

And although there might not be a specific statistic or piece of data to show for it, we also know that transparency within the industry is a factor that plays a part too; sustainability and ethics-wise.

For example, in the report, Boohoo (or Boohoo Group), stated that they do not see the benefits of joining the ETI (the Ethical Trading Initiative; an alliance that protects the rights of workers around the world). Carol Kane, Boohoo Group’s co-founder and joint Chief Executive said, “being members we will be required to publish our whole supply chain, which is currently our engine room”.

Carol Kane was also asked about Boohoo’s position on workers unions and the report quotes her saying, “if the workers would like it”. You can read my piece that covers the Bangladesh Accord, here, as it goes into detail as to why initiatives similar to the ETI, as well as unions, are so vital to the protection of garment workers.

Boohoo wasn’t the only brand which provided evidence to the inquiry. Within the report, there is a table of retailer’s responses which is an eye-opening record of the actions and commitments that many well known British brands are and are not achieving. Missguided and Boohoo were two of the worst offenders, shockingly alongside Amazon UK.

So, what are the recommendations being put forward to the Government? I’ve listed below some of the suggestions that stood out to me. They are a mix of ethically focused and sustainability-focused suggestions but the two go very much, hand-in-hand…

Made in the UK should mean workers are being paid fairly…

There is known evidence that garment workers in the UK (yes, the UK itself, not just overseas) are being underpaid. Leicester is one of the main textile manufacturers in the country, home to 700 factories employing 10,000 textile workers, and under a study by the University of Leicester, it was found that the majority of garment workers in the city, were earning below the National Minimum Wage – this is the attitude towards a known situation onshore, at home.

This one quote from the chairman of the Textile Manufacturer Association of Leicestershire, Saeed Khliji, stood out to me in particular – “None of the retailers are giving us an ethical price. An extra £2 or £2.50 on a garment would sort everything out. Instead they squeeze us for pennies. If they don’t sell everything, they send it back and charge us for the carriage. If we are an hour or 30 minutes late with delivery they fine us £500. I have been told of one retailer who is making £2 million a year from fines.”

The committee urges that HRMC’s National Wage team (which the report states, investigates employers at a rate meaning the average employer can expect an inspection around once every 500 years), is provided with greater resourcing, in order to ensure the ‘Made in UK’ label, actually means what most of us believe it to.

Retailers failing to report and comply with the Modern Slavery Act should be faced with a penalty…

According to the report, the Public Accounts Committee raised the concern that the Government does not monitor whether statements made under the Modern Slavery Act comply with legislation and that it has never used its powers to penalise companies that do not comply.

The Home Office Minister Victoria Atkins MP said, “In terms of companies that have reported: we know that around 60% of businesses that we believe to be within scope have put up statements; 60% of companies in total.”

From my own personal reading of the report, there is an awful lot of uncertainty surrounding the Modern Slavery Act, when it seems as if it should be the bare minimum when it comes to the expectations put upon major brand names.

The Government should ban incinerating or landfilling unsold stock that can be reused or recycled…

This recommendation is another I would hope the Government would read as a matter of urgency. Lucy Siegle wrote about this topic when the news broke that Burberry was destroying old stock –

“There are 101 processes that go into making a garment, from harvesting plants for raw fibre, to the processing and finishing of textile yarns involving thousands of litres of water. There are hundreds of hours of human labour too. Similarly, high-end cosmetics are a drain on resources in terms of both raw ingredients from the natural world and processing. To input all of these resources and then to squander them by burning (recovering only a tiny proportion of that energy) is pure madness given the backdrop of ecological emergency that we face.”

For anyone curious, Burberry’s 2017/2018 Annual Report stated that the cost of finished goods physically destroyed in the year was £28.6 million (2017: £26.9 million), including £10.4 million of destruction for Beauty inventory.

Lessons on designing, creating, mending and repairing clothes should be taught in schools…

I was fortunate enough to go to a school where I experienced using a sewing machine and learning how to thread a needle but for a lot of people, going out and buying a new coat to replace the one you own that’s missing a button, is often the easier option due to this lack of knowledge.

Not only does this recommendation approach the issue surrounding throw-away fashion, but it also approaches the added benefits to a make-do-and-mend attitude being taught from a young age, as crafting is known to be beneficial for mental health and those tackling anxiety.

An Extended Producer Responsibility scheme for companies that take positive action to reduce waste, should be introduced…

An EPR is a policy where producers are given responsibility for the treatment or disposal of products they put on the market, whether it be financially or physically. An EPR has already been introduced into other countries across Europe, including France.

A charge of one penny per garment could raise around £35 million, which could be invested into better clothing collection and sorting around the UK, diverting a large number of unwanted and unusable clothes from landfill.

The Government should reduce VAT on repair services…

This is another recommendation which would help slow down the rate at which consumers dispose of clothing, making repair services more accessible, allowing for people to hold onto their clothes for longer and take care of them when wear and tear begins to occur. Sweden has already taken this approach successfully, reducing VAT rates on repairs to bicycles, clothes and shoes from 25% to 12%.

If you’re wondering if there is any way for you to get involved – there is! Fashion Revolution has just released a postcard template you can use to send to your local UK public officials, to ensure they know how important the report is to you and the future of the fashion industry. Click here to download it and print it off.

With time running out and the fashion industry working faster than ever, I would hope that these suggestions would be taken seriously. There are many other points raised that I haven’t even touched upon, so, if you have the time, I would highly recommend reading through the report and seeing what stands out to you the most.

If you could add a recommendation to the Fixing Fashion report, what would it be?

For a lot of us, ringing in a New Year can be a great place to start on creating new habits, which is why I thought this post would be a great one to end 2018 with. I’ve compiled a list of blog posts from this year (and previous years) which should help anyone wanting to start their 2019 off sustainably…

WHAT I WORE: Beret (Gift) // Faux Fur Dalmatian Coat (Jumble Sale) // Jeans (Pull & Bear – old) // Roll-neck Jumper (Hand-me-down) // Dr Martens (Jumble Sale) // Tote Bag (Eat Mielies)

The list (or directory of posts) below, can be used whether you’re new to sustainable living or whether you’ve been working hard on becoming more eco-conscious for years now. Sometimes it’s good to give ourselves a refresh by revisiting certain topics and issues; sometimes we need reminding that we can’t do everything at all at once (I see it as a collective issue – not one single person or action, will save the world) and sometimes, we need reassuring it’s okay to not know where to start.

You may have already read a lot of these posts or this might be your first visit but if there’s one thing you should know, it’s that I aim to be as open and honest as possible, and sometimes that’s all we need reminding of, even if you think you know it all. I do not live plastic-free, I use planes to travel and I would rather have a dishwasher than have to scrub dirty plates by hand. I am not perfect and I don’t think anybody should aim for that all in one go. It’s impossible and even if you think you’ve seen somebody living the ideal life sustainability-wise, you don’t know the ins-and-outs of their situation and what has helped them get there.

A topic I’d like to delve further into and try to understand for myself personally is the toll on our mental health when it comes to sustainability. I want this list to free up some of your time and some of your headspace, in order to help ease the load and make the weight of the fast-warming world, seem a little lighter.

Plus – I’m making it fun with a new outfit shoot because I still want us to embrace looking cool whilst learning to save the planet.

FOR WHEN YOU NEED TO LEARN THE BASICS…

→ What’s the Difference Between Ethical and Sustainable Fashion? 

The lines between the term ‘ethical’ and the term ‘sustainable’ can often become blurred when it comes to fashion. This post helps easily break down and define the two terms.

◈ Is Ethical Fashion Expensive?

Everybody has their own opinion when it comes to answering this question but this post might help you understand why I don’t like to hear ethical fashion being labelled as inaccessible.

★ What is Greenwashing and How Do You Avoid It? 

Ever wondered whether a brand is genuinely ethical or as sustainable as they say they are? Learn more about what ‘greenwashing’ is and whether your favourite brand uses it to their advantage.

☞ What to Do with Old Clothes

It turns out donating your old clothes to a local charity shop isn’t always the most sustainable option. Learn more about other ways to help your old clothes find new homes!

→ 5 Facts & Figures You Need to Know

This post is a really basic round-up of information that you might not be aware of, whether it be about textile recycling or how much more a t-shirt would cost if it was produced ethically.

FOR WHEN YOU DON’T KNOW HOW TO START SHOPPING SUSTAINABLY…

◈ My Honest Ethical Wardrobe Priorities

In this post, you’ll learn how I prioritise my wardrobe when it comes to shopping ethically. What do I spend my money on and where do I spend it? From dresses to underwear, I explain my thought process and help you understand what I try to focus on.

★ How to Know If You’ll End up Wearing Something You Buy

When it comes to conscious consumerism, you’ll be told to ask questions an awful lot. This post breaks down some of those questions in order to help you decide whether you really need what you’re buying.

☞ Finding Your Style Second-Hand

One of the most sustainable ways to shop is to shop second-hand as you’re using what’s already available without having to fund the production of new garments. I answer a variety of questions here but one of the topics covered is finding your style second-hand as you may find it tricky at first.

FOR WHEN YOU’RE OVERWHELMED…

→ How I Avoid Becoming Overwhelmed by Sustainable Activism 

As I mentioned previously, I’m interested in the crossover of mental health and sustainability. Here, I discussed how to avoid becoming overwhelmed by the scope of it all – whether it’s fashion related or not – because, in my opinion, it’s inevitable at some point in your sustainable journey.

◈ Calling out Hypocrisy Won’t Get Us Anywhere

If you’ve ever seen somebody publicly sharing the fact they’ve made a small sustainable act, you’ve probably also seen somebody piping up and accusing them of hypocrisy. It’s tiring and it won’t get us anywhere, and this post explains why.

★ It’s Taken Me Over 3 Years to Become a Conscious Consumer

If it’s almost impossible to be perfect then it’s even more impossible to become perfect overnight. In fact, my sustainable journey has taken over three years (and it’s still going). There’s always going to be room for improvement but it’s also important to make note of how far you’ve come. Explore my ethical fashion journey, by giving this one a read!

FOR WHEN YOU’RE READY TO DIVE A BIT DEEPER…

☞ You Can’t Call Yourself a Feminist if You’re Supporting Fast Fashion

Or can you? It’s a big topic of conversation. This post was inspired by a book that raised this question and got me thinking about whether my socio-political views were at peace with one another. It’s a good one if you want to question what you think you already know.

→ Why Having Fewer Clothes Doesn’t Mean Your Wardrobe is Sustainable

When I was living with fewer clothes for a couple of months, I realised that sustainable fashion isn’t all to do with having less or the production of what you by. It also has a lot to do with how we care for our clothes and when we pass them on.

◈ Can You Stay on Top of Trends as a Conscious Consumer?

Swapping fast-fashion for second-hand clothes and ethically-focused brands has meant ditching trends and being completely out-of-the-loop of what’s going on trend-wise. Before you read, why not have a think about what your answer would be…

★ Is Not Shopping a Radical Act?

A post which arose after the frenzy of Black Friday, discussing whether not shopping is as difficult as it may seem, or whether it’s actually about questioning who we are and what we stand for, style wise.

FOR WHEN SUSTAINABLE FASHION SEEMS BORING…

☞ No Animals or People Harmed in the Making of This Outfit

Experimenting with style is even more satisfying when you can do it sustainably and this post is all about that, in the form of an outfit shoot that explores why ethical fashion can be more fun than it looks.

→ How Suits Are Bringing out My True Colours

In 2018, I came into possession of this insanely beautiful vintage suit and it gave me a new boost of confidence – it might inspire you, too!

◈ How to Use Instagram for Sustainable Inspiration

Instagram doesn’t have to be all about crippling self-doubt and comparing your lives to others. You can use it many other inspiring ways by following the right people. In this post, I suggest several accounts which will definitely make ethical fashion seem less boring.

I hope you find at least one post here that might spark a new brainwave or inspire you to make a change. Don’t forget, my whole blog from day one right up until now, is available for you to browse. Go back and explore my old (and quite horrendous) shopping habits or spend time catching up on what I’ve been wearing lately.

I’m also over on Instagram a lot more in recent times. I’ve been doing mini features on my “Learn” highlight which seem to be going down a treat! I love being able to create an open dialogue with my audience about sustainable issues and Instagram is one of the best places to do it!

Whilst I have you, there’s still time to head on over to the UK Blog Awards and hit the heart ❤️ button on Tolly Dolly Posh Fashion in the Green & Eco category. I’d love to have my blog recognised with an award after six years of hard work and it would be an amazing way to start 2019!

Happy holidays, planet lovers!

Perhaps the timing of this piece is a little late with Black Friday and Cyber Monday having just taken over both physical stores and almost every inch of the internet. However, a new sale and discount frenzy are never far around the corner in current times and it’s clear that shopping habits are unlikely to slow down anytime soon, so, I expect this will stay relevant for a while still.

An experimental piece I illustrated on the theme of fast-fashion and consumption

A lot of us have heard the statistics by now; we know – according to statistics from the Environmental Audit Committee’s sustainable fashion hearing – that in the UK, 23% of our clothing stay sat in our wardrobes unworn and that on average we’re buying 27 kilos of clothes a year, per person. We know that this is having a detrimental effect on our planet and that according to a report by the IPCC (that gave me a fright, to say the least), and try to put a stop on irreversible climate change.

We know all of this to a certain extent, yet the idea of not shopping for new clothes to a lot of us, seems like a radical act, whether this be for brand new clothes or second-hand pieces which have already experienced a life with a previous owner. We can’t deny that there is a certain thrill when it comes to bringing a new material item into our life.

In fact, it’s so clear to so many of us that there’s scientific evidence suggesting it can cause a dopamine rush. Of course, this isn’t just with our clothes but it has to be said that other than essential purchases such as food, often our clothes are what we update most regularly. They are a tool, after all, allowing us to change how we wish to be perceived by others, express our personal beliefs and stand out in a sea of other people trying to fit in.

It’s why I love clothes so much. I can experiment and wear different pieces to suit my mood. I can mature and start to find confidence in wearing red suits or I can mix it up and wear My Little Pony socks with jelly shoes (you can hear more about that on the Pre-Loved Podcast episode, I recently spoke on).

Styling and creating outfits is and should be fun, whether it’s based on ethics and sustainability or not, so, I’m not about to enforce the idea of a hippie future for us all. The concept of not shopping that I’m going to discuss, shouldn’t be a vision of a nudist camp where we all grow and pick our own vegetables and blend our own nut milk every morning (however dreamy that may sound to some of us, perhaps bar the nudity). The concept of not shopping that I do want to discuss is far more realistic and one of which I think an awful lot of us could adapt our lives to if we just stopped being afraid of change.

Illustrations of Anna Firkins of @wearwhatsthere

This year, I made two changes. These two changes aren’t necessarily mind-blowing and they won’t change the world but they have made a big impact for myself and how I view my life. They are two very personal and actually rather incidental changes; in a way, I sort of fell into them.

Firstly, I decided to stop shaving my legs. I documented this decision a few months in after I could confidently say that it was a change I was embracing. It’s been almost a year now and I’ve done more than I ever could have imagined with a full display of leg hair. I went to my brother’s wedding without covering my legs; I went to the beach and skipped along the sand into the water; I went swimming at a public pool and held my head high. I did simple things with visible body hair on show that a year ago, would have felt extremely daunting to do (because I’d been trained to view it as disturbing and something to be ashamed of).

Secondly, I stopped eating meat. I’m not close to being a vegan yet and due to the fact that I eat fish every once in a while, I can’t technically call myself a fully committed vegetarian, however, my diet now fully consists of Quorn nuggets over chicken and a whole lot of bean curries to top up on a good amount of protein.

It hasn’t quite been a year yet but it has once again been a change that at first, seemed scary and not something I could see myself going all the way with. When I first started to cut out meat, I ate a sandwich with ham in it because I couldn’t be bothered to find an alternative – and now, I wouldn’t even question it; I would walk that bit further to find a vegetarian option from a different shop down the road.

The reason for referencing these personal changes is because I often see many people scared off by the idea of changing what they’re used to. Change in itself is always rather terrifying (the idea of cutting my hair short sounds like a bit of a nightmare) but surely change should always be easier to take head-on when we know the consequences of not changing and not evolving?

I adapted my shopping habits to become more sustainable because I’d started to educate myself on how my wardrobe was in part, contributing to the demise of our world. I choose the word “world” carefully because I was recently reminded of the fact that the planet itself will still very much be here, even if we can’t inhabit it ourselves.

If we know the statistics and we know that changing our ways could be beneficial, why does, for example, not shopping, seem so extreme? In theory, it’s not that much of a challenge. You see something you like in a shop window or on a clickable Instagram post and you just don’t buy it. Maybe one day, a few months down the line, you go back and buy it or you find a second-hand version but in the moment, when it’s just a spontaneous splurge, you resist.

In practice? You see something you like in a shop window or on a clickable Instagram post, you consider how you’re feeling that day and whether you deserve to just “treat yo’self” and then you step inside the shop door or click on the buy it now button; you try it on (or double-check the size guide), look at the price tag and do a little happy dance at how cheap it is, before adding it your basket and walking away smiling.

You smile for three days because that’s how long the dopamine rush of a new purchase lasts.

I would expect that a lot of us have had experience with both the theory and the practice. It’s far easier to resist buying something new when you have strict limiting factors already set in place. For example, a lot of us have tight purse strings that can’t be stretched as much as we’d like them to. But there are also times when they stretch a bit further and one purchase here and there won’t matter, so long as we don’t calculate what it’s all adding up to in the end.

And that’s just one side to it; the self-care and “treat yo’ self” culture, that 78% of you on Twitter said you find difficult to balance with a conscious consumer mindset.

I recently had an in-real-life conversation with the amazing Anna Firkins from @wearwhatsthere on Instagram (I’m specifying the fact it was an in-person conversation because did it really happen if I don’t?), who has been committed to not shopping for clothes for almost a year now. Her Instagram account is such a simple platform but it proves something really wonderful that there’s not nearly enough of, whether it be online or offline – we don’t need new clothes and we definitely don’t need them to look stylish or to express ourselves. If we choose wisely at the beginning, which Anna so clearly did (I’m a big fan of her khaki dungarees, as you can see from my illustrations), then it’s not necessary to rely on an influx of newness every few seasons, months, weeks or even days.

I recall once reading a blog post written by somebody who stated that they could never slow down their shopping habits or switch to more sustainable brands because they just loved shopping too much. The idea of being so attached to an activity that they admitted to knowing had cost to the environment, saddened me but I’ve seen this been said multiple times over since then, especially as more people have started to approach these sorts of topics and issues.

So, I asked Anna whether she’d had anybody respond to her not shopping challenge by saying, “I could never do it!”. Of course, the answer was yes but Anna could understand why it isn’t always easy.

For example, she hasn’t stopped shopping for her children because they’re growing and changing, and unsurprisingly, limiting new clothes for them isn’t exactly simple, or in fact, possible. We all have such different experiences and situations that we are faced with, which means it isn’t always as black and white as saying no or emptying your shopping basket. As Anna reminded me, sometimes we need a quick solution and that means having to put yourself first before the world or the people providing for us (in this case, garment workers).

Just like I can’t call myself a fully committed vegetarian, I also can’t say that I’m fully committed to not shopping, which means I can’t say it’s for everyone. It’s not a ‘challenge’ or a mission of mine simply because my purchases are few and far between and are almost always guilt-free (for example, unless it’s something I’ve been sent as a gifted item, I mainly only ever shop second-hand).

It’s to my belief that not shopping means doing some self-reflection and deep analysing within ourselves. It’s not about depriving yourself of nice things or material possessions that make us who we are but it’s about understanding why we choose to obtain these things in the first place. It’s similar to how I approached my personal decisions around body hair. I asked myself why I was doing it and I came up short. Could I love myself exactly how I am? Can we curate who we are and how we want to be perceived out of what we already have around us?

Do we need to be sold new collections every few months, picking out what strikes a chord with us? Or can we slow down? Can we find a middle ground where we’re not shopping but we’re in fact, investing?

Due to the amount of clothes I have in my wardrobe, adding anything new will never be a direct necessity but they will be a necessity for my personal growth and style evolution, whether I be strongly invested in fashion or not – and the fashion industry (and others) thrives on this little flaw within the connection between how we dress ourselves and our individuality.

Not shopping, or at least reducing the power that we give over to those, unfortunately, abusing the planet and our hunger for more isn’t radical. Taking the time to understand your choices, recognise what is really you and building from there, can be.

What do you think about not shopping? Is it radical? Do you think you could do it? Let me know in the comments!

Whilst I have you, it would be an honour if you could head on over to the UK Blog Awards and hit the heart ❤️ button on Tolly Dolly Posh Fashion in the Green & Eco category. I’d love to have my blog recognised with an award after six years of hard work. Thank you in advance!

I wrote this blog post over a couple of weeks, letting some feelings sink in. Take this as a brain-dump (and a question) as sorts, as I try to re-evaluate my relationship with sustainability and activism…

Part of the reason my blog isn’t as active as it used to be is that over time, I’ve come to appreciate more considered, thought-out writing that is as helpful and as insightful as it can be for my readers.

However, that sort of content can take time and with the recent report from the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) stating that by 2040 we could see major irreparable effects of global warming, it suddenly feels as if we don’t have that time and that the time we do have, shouldn’t be spent writing a blog or hosting an Instagram profile that’s main purpose is to try and get people to shop differently.

If 100 companies have been named as the source of more than 70% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions by the Carbon Disclosure Project – most of which are companies leading the oil and coal industries -, then surely it’s time to focus our efforts on bringing them down than pointing a finger at people who aren’t turning down single-use straws or buying a new pair of pyjamas from Primark?

Before you attempt to predict where this piece is going, I’ll do the work for you by saying that I won’t be finishing it off by promoting the idea of small steps saving the world. I would hope to never enforce that idea, only the thought that of course, small steps are better than nothing and are often a great way to instil a peace of mind for our own consciences (as well as being a tool to continue these sorts of climate-related conversations, everyday).

In fact, it’s quite likely that the majority of this post will be uninspiring and demotivating. You may even come away from this blog post with dread.

For me, even making sure this piece is factually correct by researching different articles and reports, has left me feeling hopeless and honestly, rather terrified for our future. I feel as if I’m in a state of panic. Seeing a headline which talks about a possible outcome for babies born today, leaves a lump in my throat.

My youngest nephew has just turned two-years-old and he’ll only be entering his mid-twenties by the time the damage has – or could have – become unstoppable and the idea of that, has me contemplating my own future life choices and whether a family (one of blood and the same genetics) will be one of them.

The IPCC report states that the world’s carbon pollution would have to be cut dramatically to ensure that we are down to 0% carbon emissions by 2050. At the current rate and with no dramatic changes in place, whether it be politically or industry-wide, the world as we know it is heading for a 3-centigrade rise in warming and I don’t believe anyone truly knows what that would look like.

The dramatic changes which could be made to avoid this involve things such as increasing carbon tax (fellow eco-activist Alden Wicker touched on this here, discussing how it would hike up prices of services such as air travel yet could also be rewarding, as the tax contribution could be reinvested annually), as well as quite frankly, pulling the plugs on the worst offenders, even if it makes life a lot more inconvenient.

All of this has left me at a bit of a crossroads. How do I, as somebody who has a platform and has recently been given the ‘environmental activist’ label, move forwards? And in which direction should that be? As I said, it’s got me questioning whether I am using my time or my voice as wisely as I should be.

That’s not to say I’m going to let this all stop me; as Mary Robinson (former President of Ireland) so rightly said, “Feeling ‘this is too big for me’, is no use to anybody”. Quite a few of you wanted to remind me of that too, when I jumped to Instagram Stories stating I was having a crisis.

Thankfully since then, I’ve also seen a notable rise in people discussing topics such as fast-fashion and sustainability, even if they never have before. I think we have Stacey Dooley’s BBC documentary “Fashion’s Dirty Secrets” to thank for this.

With more people starting to add to the conversation at the same time as more frightening statistics, it’s important that we don’t let go of any kind of motivation or momentum that is spurring us on to make positive change because it shows that we care and that we don’t want to just sit back and accept the doom and gloom for normality.

The voice in the back of my head – or your head – telling me that I’m not doing enough, shouldn’t be one to guilt me or turn me into a fearful wreck; it should be the one I hold onto tightly and when I’m ready, use to the best of my abilities to prove that I can do enough and more.

The biggest question mark and challenge I currently face though, is what should I use it for? I then realised, often when discussing these issues, the term ‘we’ is used. We could this. We could that. Why aren’t we changing our actions? So, why aren’t I thinking of this as a chance to ask and include others? What can we do? How can we use our voices and progress forwards, even in a pit of despair and defeat?

So, yes, I’m going to ask you. Take it as a bit of research. I want to know how you think we – yes, you and me, the reader of this blog – can start to do more. I don’t mean in the sense of cutting down on plastic or going out to vote. Both of those options have their own levels of importance and there are many people already pushing these as ways to go (including myself).

What I mean is – how can we pull together and do something as a team (yes, we’re a team now) that can create some sort of positive change? How we can drag ourselves out of the comforts of clicktivism and into the scary waters of real-life action?

I’ve thrown this idea out into the world a couple of times recently, so, I’ll throw it around here publicly. Something I’d like to achieve in the future (possibly the very near future) is a campaign of sorts. I don’t know how I’ll do it but I know I’d love for you to all be involved somehow and perhaps this can be the beginning of working out what we can do to make it happen.

I’m leaving this blog post as a place to mull over ideas. What issues – within the realm of ethical and sustainable fashion – are the ones you believe we could really help to solve? The time we do have, I’d like to us to use wisely. Have a think, let me know and hopefully, we can all come out of this collective, climate change fear-induced slump together!

Whether you leave a comment on here or Instagram, send me a tweet or go one step further to express your thoughts via email (my inbox is always open!), I look forward to hearing from you.

In the meantime, not too long ago I discussed how to avoid becoming overwhelmed by sustainable issues, which might come in helpful if you’re experiencing similar feelings. I also recently posted on Instagram, a tiny list of things that are keeping me going.

If I was solely responsible for the decline of print magazines, it would be because I no longer find inspiration within the pages of a standard fashion issue. I am unfulfilled by the endless full-page advertisements and the glorification of trends and mindless shopping. So, how do I feel when a well-known, mainstream publication, focuses its infamous September Issue on sustainability?

~ BUY THE ISSUE HERE ~

By now, you’ve probably seen the beautiful blue and polka-dot cover – featuring Slick Woods – of ELLE UK’s September 2018 issue splattered all over Instagram. It seems to be a major first not only for ELLE specifically but for a good chunk of everyday fashion magazines you’ll find on your local newsstand.

From afar, it looks like any other issue of the magazine with its glossy plastic covering and it’s headline about ‘power boots’ being the latest trend, but inside, the paper has been produced from 100% recycled waste and 49 pages in, you will find an editor’s letter from Annie-Marie Curtis with the phrase “It’s better to buy less and buy well” – a phrase which I find excitingly refreshing when the majority of sustainable fashion content often revolves around the latter half of her statement (I’ve been guilty of this in the past, too).

Overall, excluding the advertisements which almost feel ill-placed (see: the spotlight interview with Stella McCartney sandwiched between two River Island promotions), the whole issue feels refreshing and with that, you might skip to thinking they couldn’t have done a better job.

There’s an editorial which highlights the team behind Fashion Revolution; Wilson Oryema is part of the guest editors list and a couple of the photoshoots feature vintage pieces, meaning they act more as style inspiration than a call-out for people to get shopping.

Quite honestly, I don’t have much to complain about or pick holes in. It’s what I would expect from a fashion magazine focusing on a topic which is much broader and larger than a single issue will ever be able to cover.

Perhaps that is the only problem, here? Perhaps the limitations of how mainstream media works, is what will always stop it from truly making an impact.

Once you look a little closer, it’s still a magazine playing it relatively safe. There are still phrases and attitudes being used which many ethically-focused brands and ‘greenfluencers’ – a term I recently shuddered at after being given the label – will try stead-fast to avoid.

Take the piece about animal prints, which suggest “You need one, don’t you?” when talking about a £2,495 coat from Victoria Beckham. Sustainability isn’t about needing or necessity, especially not listening to somebody else telling you what that is.

The prices and brands mentioned are another cause for concern; this September Issue further indulges the idea that sustainable fashion can only be done when you have hundreds of pounds to spare when in actual fact, sustainable fashion can be done with almost no money in the bank – you just have to stop shopping and start embracing what you already own. That’s still fashion.

I wish Stella McCartney’s quote – “I wasn’t given money by my mum and dad, so I always shopped vintage at charity shops. And damn it, I felt cooler for doing that.” – had been emblazoned across her feature in a big bold typeface. That’s my experience of having a sustainable wardrobe, too.

Speaking once again of Stella McCartney’s piece within the issue, one of the images from her Autumn/Winter 2017 campaign that depicts a model laying across a heap of waste in a Scottish landfill, is squashed into the corner of the page.

Most people who are well into their sustainable journey will tell you that seeing the harsh truths and gritty imagery is what made their mindset towards their clothes shift, so, why does it take up so little space?

Similarly, although there is a mention of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse in 2013, there are no images. After all, a picture speaks a thousand words but most of the pictures used in the magazine could be found in any other issue.

The reality of fashion and the impact it has on the world isn’t pretty, so, surely a sustainability issue should depict that in some way or another? We need balance and I believe that’s what ELLE may have missed out on, this time around.

It begs the question – will this always be the case for mainstream media, for as long as over-consumption and the mindset of disposable purchases, exists? Can we really rely on major publications to discuss these topics when luxury handbag spreads and discount offers still take up more space than the important issues the magazine is supposed to be highlighting?

I know the answer may seem simple; of course, this is how magazines work. The only way to get a magazine on a newsstand is to sell enough advertising spaces to afford the print run and all of the work which gets put into.

You could argue that it will create a demand for more sustainable practices if brands know that the publication has these sorts of expectations of them and that readers will now be more aware of what’s going on behind closed doors, but I’m unsure whether one issue out of a whole years’ worth has the power to do that.

Most likely, advertisers would start to turn their backs on a publication house if its magazines started suggesting that its readers stop shopping and when they do, start visiting their local Oxfam instead. But, how long are we going to feel comfortable with this reasoning for not going the extra mile?

In my dream edition of ELLE’s Sustainability Issue, there would have been images from the Rana Plaza disaster or dye-polluted rivers running from denim factories in China. There would have been more of an emphasis on re-wearing and being comfortable in what you already own (Pandora Sykes briefly touched on this, although it was from a specific and very unique perspective that the everyday reader may not be able to relate to).

And there would have been features for brands which won’t always break the bank, such as People Tree and Know The Origin who are two of the UK’s sustainability stars.

I am happy that the issue was published, and I believe it is an inspiring start. I can only hope that recycled paper is used in all the upcoming issues (the feel of it reminded me of the old Hearst print, COMPANY magazine) and that ELLE and other magazines follow in VOGUE Australia’s footsteps by putting some great minds and experts, like Clare Press, in the driver’s seat of their sustainable efforts.

As I recently said in an interview for i-D – nobody is perfect, but we really do need to embrace the small steps, and fortunately, this issue of ELLE is 306 small steps (or pages), in the right direction.

Did you read the issue? What did you make of it? Let me know in the comments!

Let’s be honest here – caring about the planet, whether you are a content creator or an everyday citizen, can be massively overwhelming…

WHAT I WORE: Dress (Jumble sale) // Neven Low Sneakers (YATAY)* // Snake Necklaces (DIY) // Double Pandan Hair Sticks (SAYA)* 

Becoming more familiar with the harsh realities of the world, has at times, taken its toll on me. It’s especially overpowering when you realise almost every part of your life has a sustainable impact and that the only ways of combatting that could be going off the grid, becoming a naturist and only ever eating the food you grow yourself. Ideal for some; unrealistic for a lot of us.

Even if you aren’t massively into sustainability or learning about the environment or how your clothes are made, I would expect you have at some point sensed impending doom simply from watching the news or scrolling through your Twitter feed.

In my opinion, it’s not that we necessarily live in the worst era of existence, it’s just that we are more able to be involved and within the conversation surrounding all the negative issues at hand. If it wasn’t for social media or the internet, most of us would have a far poorer understanding of what is going on around the world and how little is being done to change it.

Libraries, books and even newspapers are of course still an incredible offline resource but sadly, unless we’re looking for an extremely specific piece of information from years gone by, scouring through physical pages isn’t always efficient or as up-to-speed enough in this day and age.

However, as I say, digital-learning comes with a downside. I can be hard to switch off from the world and not become intensely emotionally involved with the stories and the information we read. That’s not to say that we shouldn’t be – I thrive off of having access to such important educational materials (and I’m very grateful for that) – but, I can’t deny that it can be upsetting and stressful at times.

In a piece by The Daily Campus, this issue is discussed in more detail, highlighting the impact activism (whether it be online or offline) can have on your mental health. Although the piece is specifically targetted towards those fighting the good fight after the 2016 US election, the advice within the piece still rings true for other matters, too.

Below, I’ve compiled a list of my own advice, in order to soften the blow of issues which might be as close to your heart as they are to mine, whether it be climate change, pollution, exploitation, capitalism or everything else in-between. You might even want to bookmark and revisit this page when you’ve had a good read of the rest of my blog. I’d understand…

~ WHO MADE MY HAIR STICKS? ~
SHOP SAYA

Wayan and Yudi who are two young men originally from Java (East Indonesia) and came to Bali for work as wood carvers. They take SAYA‘s drawings to create prototypes by hand using simple tools and techniques. SAYA pre-selects recycled root wood material from suppliers in Bali and have it delivered to Wayan and Yudi’s family houses and workspaces which is where they continue the detailed process of carving, sanding and polishing our pieces to a high-quality standard.

Have an online escape platform…

I use most of my social media platforms as ways to communicate with like-minded, intelligent and informative people. I unfollow people who don’t engage me how I’d like to be engaged with and I follow accounts that post about relevant topics or from perspectives I might not be as familiar with. I’ll always promote the idea of using your platforms and your audiences for good but I would highly recommend also having an escape from that.

For me, my digital escape-road is Tumblr. I use it for what might be classed as my ‘guilty pleasures’, such as my favourite TV shows, aesthetically pleasing imagery and for talking to people who are detached from the world of sustainable activism. It’s refreshing and allows me to have that slice of the internet that, for the most part, will keep my stress levels (or even levels of fear) to a minimum.

Read books…

With social media, I’d say there is fast-becoming this pressure to respond to absolutely every piece of news that enters our content stream. I know that I can feel guilty for not covering every topic or cause for concern but it’s important to understand that we all have our own battles to fight and we don’t have to be a spokesperson 24/7. We don’t have to tweet our condolences or our thoughts of concern if we know that there is a much larger issue at hand that cannot be solved in 280 characters.

That’s when books come in to play because it allows me to continue educating myself without that pressure or feeling of needing to join in the conversation publicly. There are no reply or share buttons on book pages (at least not physical paper books) which means we can keep our thoughts to ourselves or save them for later when we feel we might want to share them. It can help you digest the information in your own time rather than rush to try and process it for everybody else.

The book featured in this post is a collection of consumption-themed poems by Wilson Oryema, which I originally featured in my illustrated wishlist. I highly recommend this, especially for anyone on a gift hunt for a consciously-minded friend!

Don’t be too hard on yourself…

I always take a big sigh of relief when I see somebody who I presumed was almost perfect (whether that be in terms of living sustainably or having an Instagrammable life), being honest and open about how they’re not. I’d like to say that my blog is a space for embracing that; I’m nowhere near being the best example of a sustainable activist (plastic and waste feel impossible to avoid) and hopefully, you all know that.

Evolving and adapting takes time, in no matter what context. So, remind yourself that even when somebody looks like they’ve got it down, they’re probably still working on it and improving as each day goes on.

Share the burden…

I’m not going to go back on what I said about digesting information on our own terms but I will say that sometimes we need to share and discuss things in order to make an issue seem less daunting to face. It’s one reason why I love Instagram Stories because I find my audience easily engages with questions and discussions I raise.

It’s like sharing a burden; often talking about what’s on your mind is the best medicine and hearing other people understand where you’re coming from can help you move forward. And who knows? Maybe you’ll learn something that will aid you in tackling the problem at hand more easily.

Try hands-on experience…

This year, I attended my first in-person activist event in the form of a Women’s March in Florence, Italy. Taking into account your mental state and giving yourself a break is vital, however, after experiencing group activism first hand, I realised that there is a huge difference between typing and doing. 

Proudly walking the streets with hundreds of other people, chanting and singing, can make you feel a lot less alone and a lot more empowered than creating and engaging in content online. It’s reenergizing in itself and it opens your eyes to how many other people are truly behind the issue, as well. If you have the opportunity to get out and contribute to a cause in person, I can’t recommend it enough.

How do you put your activist mind to rest? Let me know in the comments…

(This post is sponsored by and in collaboration with SAYA. All opinions are mine. Read my full PR disclaimer here.)

‘Pen to Paper’ is a feature on TDP which involves an informal handwritten form of interview between myself and creatives –  from fashion designers, photographers, journalists, artists and musicians, to people who generally inspire me from day-to-day. 

~ READ THE FULL TRANSCRIPT HERE ~

I would say my blog has started to open itself to more than just fashion when it comes to discussing sustainability and this interview fits perfectly in the middle. Today I want to grab your attention and introduce you to a woman who is supporting those doing good, whether it be for fashion or lifestyle (or more!). For this edition of Pen to Paper, I interviewed Sheeza Shah of UpEffect – a crowdfunding platform with a twist.

UpEffect is a platform that is supporting social enterprises, which if you didn’t know, are businesses which reinvest their profits back into the community or for specific causes. But it’s also more than that, due to Sheeza’s commitment to supporting female-led businesses, too.

Although UpEffect isn’t specifically aimed at sustainable fashion ventures, seeing as 1 in 7 women worldwide work in the fashion industry in some shape or form, it’s reassuring to know that such a strong female voice is behind the platform that could help to push fashion in a more positive direction.

UpEffect has been behind the funding of social fashion brands though, like Thraedable, who just so happen to already be in my ethical directory.

A trend within the ethical sector that I’ve noticed is the fact that more often than not, the reason that projects (or brands) start-up is due to pure passion and love for what’s being done. Combining that with somebody who is leading the way in lifting those projects off the ground, is a powerful combination.

Even if this has only been a very brief introduction to Sheeza’s work, it was lovely to get to understand more about UpEffect and its plans for the future. After all, I want to embrace the essence of what she’s doing by supporting other people’s work myself…

Have you heard of UpEffect? Who do you think I should interview, next? Let me know in the comments!

Fashion Revolution Week is in its 5th year, raising awareness for issues within the fashion industry and creating change. The campaign falls on the week of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse which occurred in 2013 causing over 1,000 easily preventable deaths. Learn more about how to take part, here.

Fashion Revolution Week kicks off in a weeks time so as a quick reminder as to what the week is all about and ways that you can get involved, I thought I would compile a list of facts and figures that will refresh your ethical fashion knowledge! Or, not so ethical fashion knowledge, as you’ll soon see…

1. Only 20% of global textiles are recycled…

The other 80% of are either incinerated (releasing harmful chemicals into the atmosphere) or sent to landfill, to break down and release those same harmful chemicals and toxins, into the earth. That’s an extraordinary amount of harmful waste. (via Worn Again)

Clothing waste is, of course, a huge part of that. Out of collected clothing (from recycling banks, or the like), the majority is either resold (click here for why that might not be as good as it sounds) or it’s downcycled to create products like rags or stuffing for furniture. This continues the lifecycle of fabrics but it still creates yet another inevitably disposable item which will most likely end up once again, in a landfill.

2. Most of us only regularly wear 40% of our clothes…

According to Oxfam, not only do we leave 60% of our clothes hanging in our wardrobe, we also only wear an average of 16 items once. Of course, this isn’t the most daunting statistic, however, it does shine a light on our consumption habits.

On a similar note, I wrote a piece on whether having fewer clothes makes your wardrobe more sustainable, and why a sustainable wardrobe has a lot more to do with how you dispose and care for your clothes than you think.

3. Dyeing textiles is the cause of 20% of water pollution…

Changing Market’s Dirty Fashion report revealed this statistic, and it is known that denim production is one of the worst offenders. I would highly recommend watching the documentary, River Blue, for more on this subject, including some positive innovations which are being put in place to reduce the fashion industry’s impact on the world’s water systems.

4. £1.37 is the price of a living wage…

A £25.32 priced t-shirt would increase to just £26.69 if the garment workers producing it were to be paid a living wage. This is a miniscule increase, one of which the average consumer wouldn’t bat an eyelid to.

This fact and figure was taken from Fashion Revolution’s first fanzine, however, if you want a more in-depth look into garment worker wages, the best place to look is their Garment Worker Diaries report, which breaks down wages and living conditions across eastern Asia.

5. Your gym gear could take 200 years to decompose…

Another Fashion Revolution fanzine fact – A Lycra two-piece designed for sportswear could take anywhere from 20 to 200 years to decompose and break down in a landfill, compared to natural fabrics which can take only weeks.

Fabrics are important to consider whenever you’re shopping, whether it’s second-hand or new. Although it is understandable why people often opt for synthetics for durability purposes, natural fabrics will generally always be the better option whether it’s for the planet or for your body.

Did you learn something new? What’s a fact I might not know? Let me know in the comments!

Don’t forget that you can share your support for Fashion Revolution by using my collection of GIF stickers on Instagram Story! Want to know how to use them? Click here!