second hand shopping

I’ve said this numerous times over the past couple of years but it really is necessary to return to my roots of blogging sometimes and truly appreciate the parts of it that I’ve always enjoyed (like editorial shoots and focusing on second-hand style). With the climate crisis heavy on most of our minds, taking a breather from talking about it directly is a form of mindful self-care…

WHAT I WORE: Orange top (Jumble Sale) // Vintage Skirt (Charity Shop & DIY) // Sneakers (YATAY)*

Notably, this outfit isn’t an everyday look but when I come across the perfect shooting location, I tend to lean towards more creative and bold choices to match, even though this is technically just a three-piece look which takes little to no effort to put together. Of course, it’s all sustainable with the top and skirt both being second-hand.

I found this skirt in a charity shop last year. It was originally a very sheer and frail vintage piece which was much too large on me but the print wouldn’t leave my mind, so, it ended up being one of those “I’ve got to go back and get it!” purchases.

In the end, I sewed together an elasticated underskirt in some white cotton that my mum had lying about. The fact that I didn’t attach it to the floral skirt itself means I can always reuse it for another skirt if it were ever needed. It’s the closest thing to a princess dress you’ll find in my wardrobe and it was quite literally made for me (by me!).

Not only is shopping second-hand far more environmentally friendly but it also brings with it sentimentality and the memories behind each purchase. If we want to love our clothes for longer, we need to connect with them emotionally and I think that’s a little harder to do when browsing through shops which are filled with almost identical pieces, rail after rail.

Having said that, I don’t have much recollection of where this orange top came from. I know it was from a second-hand sale but I can’t remember from where or from what country. It’s one of those tops that I don’t reach for constantly but whenever I wear it, I appreciate its purpose (and its almost perfect colour match to my skirt).

In terms of the shoes, they’re pretty self-explanatory. They’re the sort of shoes that I never would have seen myself wearing a few years ago until I started to realise the only truly versatile pair I owned were a pair of white platform heels. So, in came these to my feet’s rescue and now they’re my go-to summer footwear choice. You can read more about what makes them sustainable, here.

I will be honest though, it’s extremely hard for me to completely compartmentalise my eco-anxiety from what should seemingly be a straight-forward fashion piece, especially when the location I was shooting at seemed like a glimpse into our future. A deserted waterpark or a planet left with what used to be?

I’ve had quite a few of these thoughts lately, especially in my local area where the green spaces and parks are surrounded by houses and roads. If we’re not going to be here, what are we going to be leaving behind? What have we done to what used to be natural and wild?

If I’m to attempt to apply these musings to my clothes, I suppose it circles back to sentimentality, again. I’ve written about this before and I’ve contemplated what items in my wardrobe I would like to pass down to my children (if I have them this is – that’s a whole other conversation to touch on at some point; the fear of bringing a new generation into a world that is going to suffer).

My collection of Dr Martens (which are both second-hand and years old) are going to be passed down no matter what, considering how long-lasting they are. I might cling onto my calf-high pair though, seeing as they’re becoming a piece of history as my ‘protest boots‘.

Speaking of which, like many movements which came before the likes of Extinction Rebellion and Fridays for Future, we’re leaving behind a mark in more than a directly change-making way. We’re leaving behind an identity and memorabilia which we will hopefully look back on as a positive mark of our existence. 

I actually recently touched on this subject for AJ+ (part of Aljazeera News), as they interviewed me about fashion and activism and how I use what I wear and create to play a part in demanding climate justice. I used to feel alone in this but there’s such a sense of inclusion when there are ways of indicating your belief in something. Extinction Rebellion flags are already displayed in the V&A in London, so, it’s hard to deny that we’re leaving a mark.

I hope that what we leave behind will be salvageable, whether it’s our clothes or whether it’s waterparks which are starting to overgrow and rewild themselves into something actually rather stunning. Let this be a reminder that what we use, what we own and what we dispose of will remain in some shape or form; that our clothes, much like our buildings, need to be passed down and appreciated rather than left in disarray.

There is so much beauty and life in what has already been used, so, as much as I may fear what the world will look like without me – us – here, you have to imagine everything with the sun setting behind it and be proud of all the things that we’re leaving in an attempt to avoid that ever happening.

So much for a light-hearted return to what should have just been a style post, eh?

How is your eco-anxiety showing up for you? Let me know in the comments…

Whenever I’m asked for advice on experiencing fashion sustainably (I’ve decided I prefer to say experiencing over shopping because consumption isn’t the be-all and end-all of this issue), I tend to always answer with, “Ask questions“, which initially stemmed back to how I came to educate myself on fast fashion’s human and environmental impact.

Fashion Revolution, the organisation that played a big part in my education and understanding of the industry, bases its main campaign around “Who made my clothes?” and asking brands for transparency but to me, this sense of curiosity and urge to ask questions should go further.

With the likes of Extinction Rebellion’s new fashion boycott spurring on more people to analyse their shopping habits and questioning whether we need to be buying any clothes at all (once we already have a decent amount to wear), I believe it’s important to evaluate how we approach shopping – or avoiding it (which I’ve discussed here) – and the language we use.  We need to ask ourselves. We need to slow down and understand how we truly feel, and especially when shopping, we need to avoid certain phrases…

“I need this.”

Admittedly, there are times when necessity does come into play. Whether it be for work or school or because something you already own has been damaged or stained to a point of no repair, there are times when ‘needing’ something is excusable. However, there’s a stark contrast between genuinely needing something and labelling an impulse purchase as a necessary one.

I’ve definitely experienced plenty of those, “That’s so me!”, squeal-worthy moments, so, it might seem nitpickish to call this out as an issue but it’s all part of consciously shifting your mindset and attitude towards shopping.

Now that the majority of my shopping occurs on a second-hand basis, I truly understand the difference between needing and wanting. This doesn’t mean that I’m numb to impulse and spontaneous purchases; charity and thrift shops can still bring out that sense of excitement and temporary fulfilment in you but it just comes with minimised guilt.

For me, this distinction between necessity and longing extends to my blog and my approach to receiving samples and gifted products. If I don’t need it or if I already have a similar item in my possession then I will politely decline.

There’s no issue in wanting, in fact, I’ve previously written all about actively lusting over items and why I believe wish lists can be more useful than I once deemed them to be.

“I probably didn’t need this.”

Similarly, this is a phrase which derives from impulse purchases and is almost the exact opposite attitude of what somebody who labels themselves as a ‘conscious consumer’ might have. In simple terms, if you probably didn’t need it, then why did you buy it? ‘Treat yo’ self’ culture is something that we’ve all become fairly desensitized to and it’s understandable, seeing as retail therapy is scientifically proven to be just that – a form of dopamine-inducing therapy.

Shopping sustainably though (or avoiding shopping altogether), is all about taking your time to mull over your decisions and work out what the best option is. To shop, or not to shop? That is the question!

Limiting the number of times we fall back onto the excuse of treating ourselves, is a way of not only restricting the size of our wardrobes but a way of saving ourselves money in the long-run.

“I’m not sure why I bought this.”

I see this to be different to the previous two phrases because it doesn’t just suggest that what you bought was an impulse purchase; it also suggests the attitude you might have towards the item in the future. Shopping sustainably also means owning responsibly.

Fashion Revolution coined the phrase “Loved clothes last”, meaning that if we care and respect our clothes, no matter how ethically produced they were or what materials they are made of, they will ultimately last longer because we will do our best to look after them.

(However, this is not a reason to fall back into the habit of supporting unsustainable and unethical brands just because we know we can make their products last. That’s like continuing to use single-use plastic bottles just because you can refill them over and over; there are other ways of doing things that won’t be harmful to start off with.)

None of these phrases strictly imply that you’re living and consuming unsustainably but I believe that what we say and think about our clothes and what we bring into our lives can have a huge effect on our mindset towards consumption. So, if we can change our attitude towards genuinely knowing why we buy what we buy, it could help us all be far more considerate.

“It’s really in trend right now.”

Aside from the sustainability aspect, the lack of guilt and the fact that it’s a habit I’ve had since I was a child, one reason I love shopping second-hand is that it allows so much more room for individuality.

Clothes are not separated into styles and seasons (at most, you might find clothes organised by colour) and there are no look books and stylised campaigns to influence your decision making. There are no trends, which makes avoiding this phrase relatively easy.

Trends and the vast amount which are generated by the fashion industry’s constant cycle of seasons, maintain the rate of production of new garments and feed into this idea that what we are wearing and searching for, is never enough. There will always be another season with another set idea of what we should be wearing, therefore, another reason to buy.

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with enjoying trends but I recommend taking the time to sit with those feelings and analyse them once the peak of the trend has passed. I use apps like Depop and the Saved function of Instagram to store trend-led items for sale so I can source them sustainably in the future if the style is still something I appreciate.

“I really need to stop buying more [insert item of clothing]…”

This is the phrase which I believe is easiest to scrap entirely. Don’t get me wrong, it’s understandable (and even appreciated) when somebody owns something in their wardrobe in a selection of different colourways because it’s a dress/shirt/pair of trousers that fits and suits them better than anything else – for some people, that’s essential, especially when it comes to finding the right sizing (even more so from an ethical or sustainably focused brand which might not always have the most inclusive size-ranges).

When it comes to your wardrobe as a whole though, it’s time to recognise when enough is enough. For me? I don’t need any more blouses and tops. I have too many to balance out the number of bottoms (trousers, shorts and skirts) that I own.

That doesn’t mean that I’m going to suddenly decrease the size of my wardrobe (a smaller wardrobe doesn’t necessarily make a more sustainable one) but it does mean I need to be making the conscious effort to stop adding more in the future, even if it is from a guilt-free source like a local charity shop.

Analyse your wardrobe and figure out what your limit is. From my experience, physically limiting myself (with a lack of storage space or from living out of a suitcase) has meant I’ve been able to calculate this more easily.

What other phrases can you avoid to achieve a more sustainable mindset? Suggest them in the comments!

Your mind can be overflowing with questions when you first enter the world of ethics and sustainability; in fact, it will probably stay that way for the foreseeable future and for a good reason. Having issues close to your heart and being sparked by curiosity is what helps move us forward, so, to help aid this – I’m answering some of your questions in an easy Q&A format…

WHAT I WORE: Denim Jacket (G-STAR RAW)* // White Rollneck Sweater (Charity shop) // Pink Tartan Kilt (Charity shop) // White Sneakers (YATAY)*

How do you spot greenwashing?

If you’re unsure what the term ‘greenwashing’ means, it’s essentially when sustainable or environmental concerns get glossed over by small (or even false) attempts at being sustainably conscious, intentionally or not.

If you take a look through my archives, I’ve answered this question previously and explained in more detail about what greenwashing really is. Some of my tips included looking at whether a brand is shouting about ethics or not; looking at what information is easily accessible and finding out what progress a brand is making.

For example, if a fashion brand launches a new ‘sustainable collection’, try and find out exactly what sustainable means and whether sustainable principles go into every detail. If that ‘sustainable collection’ is based on using recycled materials, that’s a great step in the right direction, however – if the garment workers who manufacture that collection are still being underpaid, you do have to ask where the brand’s priorities really lay.

I personally always pay attention to what the brand is shouting about or what its overall brand ethos is; trust your gut and work from there. Obviously, it is important to appreciate minor steps a brand makes in becoming more sustainable but in a time where we have an 11-year countdown clock until irreversible effects of climate change could occur, I think we need much bigger commitments and fast.

Do you have any advice on encouraging other people to buy less fast-fashion without seeming rude or demanding?

I’m sure many people can relate to this frustration. Trust me, I’ve been there having conversations over the dinner table which have ended up heated and alive with passion. It’s not fun to have the principles close to your heart, seemingly attacked, or to have people become defensive and offended because they think you’re implying that they, a single individual, are the reason behind bad working conditions in clothing factories and the toxic dyes and chemicals being poured into rivers.

I believe consistency and subtlety are key. Be consistent by making it obvious it’s something you care about but be subtle in how you approach it – it could be by explaining why you would rather pop into a charity shop than a high-street store when out shopping with a friend, or it could be suggesting a really great documentary you watched (like The True Cost), when somebody asks you what they should watch on Netflix.

You could also gift educational books if you want people to understand why you care about a certain issue so much. Not only will this provide them with the tools to shift their mindset themselves but it will also enable them to learn more about you. 

This can apply to a lot of sensitive topics, not just the topic of conscious consumption and buying less fast-fashion.

Top tips for buying ethical clothing on a budget?

This is always a common question, understandably. I have three different answers. Firstly – shop second-hand if you’re able to. I understand that second-hand shops aren’t always accessible to everyone and that depending on where you look, thrifting isn’t always size-inclusive. However, it’s always the most affordable and sustainable option.

You don’t even really have to think about ethics because you’re not buying new (you might just want to understand where your money goes if it’s a charity shop or part of a chain of thrift-stores).

Secondly – shop the sales of ethically-focused brands. They do have them and it’s a great way to support brands who align with your values when your budget is limited.

Lastly – shift your mindset! This is the ‘alternative’ answer because it takes time to fully grasp a hold of. The more you learn, the more you’ll end up caring and for me, that looked like drastically cutting down on what I was buying, leaving me more room to save up and spend on investment purchases.

What sort of things should I be investigating when trying to find out how ethical a fashion brand is?

My greenwashing piece is also a great one to read for this, as it breaks down the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index and the different types of commitments major brands are starting to make. It might also be helpful to make sure you know the difference between ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ because those lines can become blurred, making it harder to work out what brands are the right fit for you.

Luckily for you, I have a whole post dedicated to the definitions of ‘ethical fashion’ and ‘sustainable fashion’.

How do you stay motivated? I often feel very discouraged and like it’s not worth it.

I’d heard this dozens of times in the past and it always made a little defensive because I had reasons as to why I wasn’t but… getting out there really helps. I’ve only just started taking my activism work out into the real world (i.e off of the internet) but experiencing it in more tangible ways, has already made a huge impact in how I view the work that I’m doing and what I’m doing it for.

It has also made me feel less alone because seeing faces on a screen is so different from having flowing conversations and debates, face-to-face. One of my favourite experiences so far was attending one of the Youth Climate Strikes in London; there were 20,000 other young people marching alongside me and for once, having hope didn’t feel quite so naive.

If you’re under 25, I suggest following Extinction Rebellion’s Youth group to see how you can get involved with their protests and campaigns.

Have any more questions? Leave them as a comment and I’ll see how I can help!

(All items marked with an asterisk* were gifted to me within the past year)

Believe it or not, although I tend to put a positive spin on topics I discuss on my blog, it is rather heavy stuff and often I forget to take from my own book (read: my piece on avoiding becoming overwhelmed by it all) by highlighting the lighthearted fun side of things like, for example, what makes styling ethical fashion all the more enticing than standard fashion offerings…

WHAT I WORE: Vintage Jaeger Blazer (Charity Shop) // Floral Blouse (ASOS Africa – old) // KENZO Trousers (Jumble Sale) // Vagabond White Platform Heels (Mastershoe – old)*

On Instagram, one of my favourite ethical content creators Benita Robledo recently embarked on a styling ‘challenge’ – #GlamCapsule – which took inspiration from well-known ’10 x 10′ wardrobes which are a way to guide people towards more conscious, considered dressing. Generally, these wardrobe challenges have very simple rules – take 10 items of clothing and for 10 days, only allow yourself to wear what you choose (minus essentials like underwear or gym wear etc).

The issue with that, which Benita pointed out, is often they are very much targeted towards those who wear a lot of versatile outfits based on neutral colours and simple shapes, therefore, they leave out those of us who wear the types of outfits similar to the one you can see me styling in this post. They don’t leave room for colour or much experimentation and when you combine that with considering where our clothes come from and who they’re made by, it ties into this idea and assumption that ethical fashion is limiting and can’t be fun. 

I recently asked on my own Instagram what assumptions my audience have about ethical and sustainable fashion and to my surprise, nobody actually mentioned that it can’t be fun. From my own personal experience and from having these sorts of conversations, though, it is still very apparent, especially for those who are used to what fast-fashion has to offer.

To my surprise, your assumptions were either extremely positive – “ethical/sustainable fashion is… cool“ – or based on what we’ve all heard thousands of times before – “ethical/sustainable fashion is… expensive“. I’ve spoken before about why ethically made clothing can often be on the higher end of the price scale and how I do believe a lot of it has to do with mindset. Mindset also plays a part in how we perceive the actual clothes and style part of ethics and I’m quite proud of how I’ve maintained such a colourful wardrobe when we’re often promoted the opposite alongside all the facts, figures, doom and gloom.

As much as I hate to sound like a broken record, yes, a good reason my individual style has sustained minimal shopping trips and trend-stalking is that I shop second-hand an awful lot. Not only does it allow for me to avoid what everybody else is wearing (often what you see in a charity shop, you’ll never find again) but it also provides me with the comfort of knowing I’m making the most sustainable choice.

Take this stunning (or striking, rather), green blazer. It’s one of my favourite items in my wardrobe now because it’s so unique in style and shape. It’s also in extremely good condition and I have evidence – an old repair receipt tagged to the lining – that shows the previous owner took care of it and loved it until they were ready to pass it on. Loved clothes last and so does style when we embrace our individuality, even if we don’t have as much choice as we’re used to.

This blouse was one of my initial ‘ethical’ fashion purchases from what was formerly my favourite online shopping destination. Another one of the assumptions made by my Instagram audience which I’m still unsure whether to read as a positive is the idea that ethical fashion is a trend. My fear with that statement is the implication that it won’t be sticking around for long and it’s not something to aspire to for more than a fleeting moment.

As I mentioned in my recent article for Blogosphere magazine (available to order here or find in your local WHSmith), there’s the infamous quote by Coco Chanel which states “Fashion fades, only style remains”, and I think it’s important to approach ethics and sustainability with a similar mindset. Ethical fashion shouldn’t be a trend, it should be a permanent attitude towards our clothes. This is why, for as long as greenwashing is apparent, I am hesitant to go back to embracing fast-fashion’s ‘conscious collections’, which are so few and far between, without truly understanding what’s behind them.

However, if buying better is what we’re all striving for then, by all means, support enterprises such as SOKO, especially if the price point is still a stumbling block. If we’re talking about fun, I can’t deny that this blouse is giving me some serious Samantha from Sex and The City vibes.

Overall, I think the way we view ethical fashion is changing gradually and I’m glad I’m able to be a part of proving people who assume it’s all about hemp and hippy styles wrong. There have definitely been times where I’ve doubted whether I am truly still interested in the glamour of it all; seeing constant wardrobe updates across social media and feeling as if slowing down the industry is a long way off, adds to this. But, as the #GlamCapsule and my own wardrobe shows, considering the environment and who started the process of making your new dress a dress shouldn’t ever dull your style or stop you from embracing what you know and love.

In fact, it should make it all the more fun because you know little to no harm has been made in the process. Or, if I really was directing a short film like the edits in this post, I would add this disclaimer: No animals or people were harmed in the making of this outfit.

Do you think ethical fashion is just as fun? Is it just common sense? Let me know in the comments!

Whilst I have you here, it would be a huge honour if you could take a few minutes out of your day to consider me for a UK Blog Award nomination. I would love to be in the running for the Green & Eco category for all of my work in raising awareness around sustainable issues. Thank you so much in advance. Fingers crossed!

Perhaps unknowingly to even people close to me, over the past month or so, I’ve become increasingly aware of the fact that I’m growing up. I’ve written similar sentences on my blog before because believe it or not when you write for six years of your teenage life, you change and grow immensely…

WHAT I WORE: Vintage Versace Jeans Couture Suit (Antibad)* // Topshop Heeled Boots (Depop) // Bralette (M&S – old)

But this time it feels different; this time it feels more drastic and permanent. This time, I almost feel as if I’m not expressing my true self where it really matters. Sometimes it can feel like I live two very separate lives on the internet.

One side of me is a ‘brand’ and a ‘persona’ which to a certain extent is curated and censored and one side is, what I can only describe as liberal. Or ‘edgy’. Or a little against the grain.

I’m starting to show more and more of that side of myself in real life, whether it be through my thoughts, how I see my body (I’m talking body hair here – not that it’s edgy; it should just be a choice) or for me, most importantly, through my clothes. And this blog has always been a portal for that.

I want everybody to feel as if they can express themselves in their truest form and wear whatever they want. Fashion is a great tool in that respect, acting almost like armour and costume that changes and evolves with every day that passes.

So, as somebody who has never had a problem in embracing that, you can see how I might feel in limbo being faced with uncertainty towards myself for the first time. It’s not that I don’t know who I am, I’m just unsure of how to transition into my next phase of style with other people watching.

When you are committed to your appearance and the upkeep of how you’re being perceived online, it feels like a big leap to suddenly start sharing part of yourself that seems different and perhaps ‘out of character’ to everything you’ve ever done before.

For some people, the images within this post will look like nothing new but for me, it’s probably the boldest shoot I’ve ever published (and simultaneously, one of the best I’ve ever published).

I felt like me whilst we took them, on a dusty side road outside of a building that seemed to be a water bottle packing facility – I’m happy to report, the bottles were glass – but in my mind, they’re a sharp contrast to what people might have seen of me before and that seems daunting even though it’s only natural.

I know that this is majorly influenced by the fact that I find it hard to find myself reflected in other people my age. I’m not about to say that I never see myself, a slim, white woman, represented in front of me, but I will say that it’s rare I see any ‘online personalities’ who don’t wear make-up, don’t pose from a certain angle and don’t wear clothes that for the most part, cover them up.

That’s no judgement to anybody who does do that – in my opinion, if we’re going to be feminists, we have to accept every individual choice so long as it doesn’t harm others – but it leaves me feeling a little left behind and as if I’m not quite 18 yet even though, I most definitely am, now.

Enter, suit, stage left: I was sent this vintage two-piece by Antibad, a new online shopping destination for ethical and sustainably focused brands, with a strong and extremely beautiful aesthetic. It’s not the first suit that I’ve owned as I have a satin navy blue number hanging in my wardrobe but there’s something powerful about the way it makes me feel (and I’ve only been its proud owner for less than a week at the time of writing).

It wasn’t too long ago that I was drafting a post about how I don’t find there is anything empowering about a woman in a suit, after seeing the phrase ‘power dressing’ crop up over my social streams. My take on the subject was going to be one from an ethical perspective, much like when I discussed the topic of feminist t-shirts; are suits empowering if they’re made by unempowered, exploited women?

I still stand by my answer of no but I will take a step back in this instance and admit – suits really do have the ability to boost your confidence and I don’t believe that to be a gendered experience.

The reason I wanted to discuss my current feelings towards my online appearance and ‘brand’ around this suit was that it’s a great introduction to who I am in this current moment in time.

I’m Tolly and I like to wear suits which make me feel a little taller and stronger, with pairs of chunky heels or sneakers which tone it down when necessary. I like to wear them unbuttoned with little underneath not only because I like the way it looks but because it’s the summer and anything more would have me collapsing in a sweaty heap.

As I mentioned, the suit is vintage and as a steadfast advocate for second-hand clothes, I’m glad that it ticks that box so perfectly. In my experience, suits and two-pieces are often a struggle to find second-hand because often they’ll be separated upon selling. It’s why I’m slightly devastated that another new tailored addition to my wardrobe (this green blazer), wasn’t part of a suit itself.

I’ll be taking over the Antibad Instagram Story on July 9th with a LIVE Q&A at 6pm BTS!

So, what does this suit mean, if it’s not only a confidence booster? To me, it’s a reminder to always stick to who you really are, even if you think it might surprise some people. It’s also a reminder that I think at some point soon, the next era of my blog needs to begin. Believe it or not, my site has looked like this for almost a whole four years now and I think it deserves a bit of a refresh.

As much as I like to use my blog as a platform to raise awareness for important issues, I can’t forget that it’s always been a place for me; a place for me to show all my true colours.

How do you evolve online? How would you style this suit? Let me know in the comments…

Let me ease you back into some new content with something a little lighter than my usual offerings because believe it or not, I do still enjoy my clothes and perfecting my wardrobe. Today, I’m going to introduce you to some new finds and some new-old finds, all of the sustainable variety, of course…

Other than clothes that I’ve upcycled, transformed and even made myself, I haven’t added much to my wardrobe since the end of last year. As I’ve reiterated many times in the past, as much as I enjoy fashion, my knowledge of ethics and my new consumerist mindset (or, anti-consumerist mindset, I suppose) has definitely made an impact in my shopping habits, meaning that I don’t really have any shopping habits anymore. It’s rare that I’ll ‘shop’ purposefully and when I do, the shops I visit tend to be charity shops.

I can never promote second-hand shopping enough though, which is why there won’t be many links within this post which send you off on your own shopping sprees. That’s the fun of it, though, isn’t it? One of a kind items (or close to it) that for the most part, people will only be able to take sartorial inspiration from rather than buying their own exact copy. It’s individualism at its best!

HEELED BOOTS – DEPOP

One of my most recent wardrobe additions which you may recognise from my Instagram Story, are these boots in the form of my first ever Depop purchase. I’ve known of and recommended Depop for a while now but I’d never taken the plunge until last month as a spontaneous birthday treat to myself (oh yeah, I’m 18 now!).

I’d been wanting a pair of heeled boots for a good year or so after seeing them continue to fall in and out of trend. They graced the feet of most people who I deemed stylish but unfortunately, all of the ethically produced options were far out of my price range (for good reason, of course). I kept my eyes peeled in second-hand shops but alas, it seems they were staying in people’s wardrobes.

To my surprise, however, Depop was my saviour. I found these killer red leather boots with an angular heel (originally Topshop) for under £25. They’re in very good condition and my fears of being ripped off over a mobile app have since subsided. They may pinch my toes just a little bit but they were definitely worth the wait. Here’s to considered purchases and wishlists!

NEVEN LOW SNEAKER – YATAY*

Continuing with the footwear theme, I now have a non-heeled pair of shoes that will go nicely with almost any outfit. As much as I love my Dr Martens collection and my trusty Vagabond platforms, I lack in the versatile and sensible shoe department.

Fortunately, I was recently introduced to the new Italian-based brand, YATAY. With biodegradable soles, an upper made of recycled fabric and bio-based resins, there isn’t much I can find fault with. The bio-based resin factor is such a huge relief, as most non-leather alternatives to footwear are made with toxic plastic alternatives which can often end up being worse than just using leather.

I also appreciate their branding and stance – avoiding the nitty gritty by leaving it down to the customers to understand and lower their negative impact (or footprint).

You may be wondering why I haven’t given these innovative shoes a stand-alone feature. The reason is simple; I know I’ll be wearing these a lot more in the future so they’re going to have plenty of time to shine.

EMBROIDERY KITS & RA-RA RAFFIA* – WOOL AND THE GANG 
GIFs commissioned by WATG

I recently received some bits and pieces to help me add another item to my wardrobe, or at least update something I already own, from Wool and The Gang. For those of you who don’t know, Wool and The Gang provide all the tools and materials for your stylish knitting (and embroidery) needs, all responsibly and sustainably sourced.

I can’t wait to get started on the raffia “Money Honey Clutch“. I’m a little nervous to give crocheting ago seeing as I’ve only achieved a few practice stitches in the past but I have faith in their trusty patterns and guidance!

I may be a little biased as to how much I love WATG though as I recently partnered up with them to create their collection of GIF stickers. You can check them out in my portfolio, here. I’ll let you be the judge, though…

BLOUSE, POLO SHIRT & JAEGER BLAZER – CHARITY SHOPS

Last but certainly not least, are a few of my other second-hand purchases (minus a skirt which I accidentally forgot to include. I’ll share it soon though, it’s a stunner!). My favourite buy costing £12.50 is this Jaeger wool jacket in the most beautiful lime green. The lapels are what drew me in initially as they give off that very eighties, almost Bowie-esque vibe. Quite honestly, it takes my confidence to a whole new level when I wear it. I can see myself wearing this for years. 

I also picked up a couple of new tops. As I already mentioned, I don’t shop very often but I’ve started to realise that when I do, I know what I want and how I like it, which is why I knew I’d have no regrets with this floaty eighties number (originally with shoulder pads). Low cut, oversized blouses with no top button have officially become a Tolly staple.

Which item is your favourite? Have you been second-hand shopping, lately? Let me know in the comments!

 (This post is not sponsored or paid for, however items marked with an asterisk (*) were gifted. All opinions are my own. Read my full PR disclaimer, here.)

The past couple of weeks have been a bit of a blur (and a whirlwind, thanks to the huge honour of being able to take over the @instagram account), so I want to apologise for the lack of Fashion Revolution content, I’ve just been one busy bee! To ease you all back in and hopefully make up for my absence, I gathered some of your questions about ethical and sustainable fashion (send me a DM on Instagram! I might be able to help). Let’s crack on with the 3rd edition of my Q&A series, shall we?

WHAT I WORE: Sustainable Denim Jacket (G-STAR RAW)* // Floral Dress (John Lewis – very old) // Recycled Denim Choker (Yours Again)* // Bamboo Sunglasses (Bambooka)* // Socks (Birdsong London) // 1460 Pascal Boots (Dr Martens)

Where are your favourite places to shop second-hand?

For me, I love charity shops. I’m fortunate that I have a wide selection to choose from, especially in the UK. Most towns are littered with them which means you can spend full days just browsing the rails.

I understand it’s different elsewhere though, like how in France there aren’t many charity shops yet there are dozens upon dozens of jumble sales most days of the week.

I’d say if you’re struggling to find local shops or sales then one of the most current and popular ways of shopping similarly, would be using Depop (or even eBay). It saves the time and effort of having to wade through piles of clothes too, seeing as you can search for exactly what you’re looking for.

This leads me to my next question…

How do I find my style in consignment or second-hand stores? 

One thing I’ve learned over many, many years of second-hand shopping, is that you have a lot more room for experimenting. Seeing as there is very rarely more than one of an item, it gives you the chance to really scope out styles you might not have reached for in the past.

When you embrace that experimental side of it, finding pieces which align with your style will become a lot easier as you’ll know what you’re more open to.

For me, I now know not to pay much attention to sizing because I know I can wear clothes oversized or I can even upcycle and adjust them. That already opens up so much more potential because instead of only looking at one end of a rail, I’ll end up looking at every item in a store (you know, apart from shoes because sadly, my feet don’t quite agree with ignoring sizes).

How do you balance wanting to show new clothes on your blog, with ethical shopping?

You may notice that I don’t post as many outfit shoots as I used to on my blog anymore (unless they’re within a post like this!), partly because I don’t find them very fulfilling and partly because of this exact dilemma.

Understandably, people don’t necessarily want to see the same thing being styled over and over (although, it can be done; I did a series a couple of years back called Changing with The Seasons where I did just that), and I don’t think this has anything to do with fast fashion or over-consumption, specifically.

It doesn’t matter what it is – repetition can become boring, right? Especially when it’s online and it’s constantly in front of you. So, it’s not very often that you see people posting the same outfits or the same combination of items.

The reality is though, clothes are made to be worn more than once (at least, they should be), which means, we all need to try really hard to translate that into what we post online (especially as bloggers).

I know there are plenty of arguments as to why it’s easier said than done (full-time bloggers often make a living from promoting new items, regularly), and even I have to remind myself to do it. It sends a message, even if people don’t notice it consciously.

I suppose another reason for your question could be to do with actually shopping ethically and being able to promote and show off my sustainable-wears. I’m fairly open and honest about this; for the most part, I shop second-hand (it’s one of the most sustainable ways to shop, after all) or every now and then, I collaborate with brands who send me items to style and review, which means I’m not adding items to my wardrobe very often.

I do my bit by lifting up brands in other forms of promotion and again, try my best to spread the message that wearing items more than once is totally acceptable.

My readers actually end up falling a little bit in love with what I do wear repeatedly, too! My yellow jacket and the killer sunglasses I’m wearing a lot at the moment are a great example.

Does ‘ethical fashion’ refer to how the clothes are made or does it go further into how the material is sourced etc?

I discussed the definition of ethical and sustainable fashion, here, if you want to understand things a little more clearly. However, you raise a great point about how far those definitions can go. As I state in that post, I believe the definitions are fairly subjective, so I’ll give you my own personal opinion.

For me – ethical fashion refers to every detail, from the moment the design is conceived to the moment it ends its life in somebody’s wardrobe. Unfortunately, it can be very hard to know how an item of clothing has been produced from start to finish, even if it’s coming from a brand that labels itself as ethical. There are brands that are exceptionally transparent about how they go about their work but sadly, they’re few and far between.

How do I get out of buying fast fashion trends and start making a more reusable wardrobe?

I haven’t personally done this myself because I’ve never been particularly interested in trends but I believe it could be a good way to start and perhaps, challenge yourself a little – try to shop your own wardrobe for a while. Whether it’s for a week, a couple, a month or even two, go without buying anything new and style your outfits with what you have.

Not only will you avoid buying into new trends and fading styles, you’ll be forced to reuse what you have and work out what works for you! Plus, all of this becomes easier once you prioritise ethics and sustainability because you know what’s more worthwhile.

Why is leather unsustainable? Is it because of cow farming and the process of producing it?

Just like fur, leather is one of those topics that goes off in many different directions. In some ways, leather can definitely be seen as sustainable because it’s a durable material and it biodegrades due to it being natural.

However, as your question suggests, unfortunately, the production process of leather is usually quite the opposite. Not only is there the ethical dilemma of leather, there are other problems to take into consideration.

Mass-farming is known for being unsustainable (and yes, leather does play a part in this as it is either sourced from food manufacturing or independently) but it doesn’t stop just there. Leather is commonly dyed and tanned using harmful chemical processes which contribute to pollution, especially within water systems. I highly recommend watching River Blue, for more on this.

Faux-leather isn’t much better either, seeing as the majority of it is produced using synthetic plastics which obviously, don’t have the biodegradable element of natural leather. So, if you see the term ‘vegan’ applied to a pair of shoes, perhaps ask yourself what that actually means for the environment, too.

I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again; if you want to shop leather guilt-free, buy it second-hand or from a brand which can guarantee that they’re sourcing responsibly from waste-leather and cut-offs.

You won’t necessarily contribute to any further leather manufacturing but you’ll still be able to experience the durability of the fabric.

Have another question for me to answer? Leave one in the comments! Perhaps I’ll answer it in a future post…

It isn’t easy to take photos in 40-degree heat (104 for you Fahrenheit users) so when the sun started to set yesterday, with the temperature a few degrees lower, I jumped at the chance to show off my new Mayamiko two-piece which has been pushing me out of my comfort zone…

WHAT I WORE: Dandy Garden Bralet £19.00 (Mayamiko)* // Dandy Garden Shorts £30.00 (Mayamiko)* // White Cover-up (Jumble Sale) // Recycled Leather Handbag (What Daisy Did)* // Suede Flats (Accessorize – old) // Recycled Denim Choker (Yours Again)* // Sunglasses (Charity Shop) 

I’m the sort of person who likes to push people into the direction of confidence and feeling good about themselves. It’s one thing that really crushes me in this time of plastering social media platforms with Snapchat filter covered selfies and tweets about how down we feel but that doesn’t mean I find everything easy myself. In fact, rather honestly, I would probably say in the past year I’ve been the most self-conscious I’ve ever been in certain areas. I’ve never been super confident of showing off too much of my skin, mainly because it reveals the boniness my fast metabolism doesn’t want to hide. So when two gorgeous pieces from Mayamiko slipped through the post, it’s safe to say I was a little afraid of seeing a bralet and a pair of high-waisted shorts in the package. 

The bralet I immediately thought would look great paired on top of a clean white t-shirt, solving my self-conscious dilemma straight away but I decided to try it on without just in case, and somehow, it fit like a glove. The nerves didn’t fade when I stepped outside but when I realised I could accessorize and still distract (in my head), in some way, I actually ended up enjoying the outfit, even if I did wear it with trousers at first.

~ WHO MADE MY TWO PIECE? ~
The two-piece was cut by Charity and sewn by Enala, just outside of Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi. Both women graduated from Mayamiko’s Trust, to become professional pattern cutters and tailors. You can read more about Mayamiko’s charity here. 

Not only is it great to break through a barrier causing you to shy away from certain fashionable styles, it’s even better when you know exactly where those clothes are coming from. Mayamiko were in my ethical directory before I got my hands on their beautiful clothes, so I can assure you I’m a big fan.

Not only are Mayamiko transparent and open about how they go about their business, they also provide support and opportunities to local communities in Malawi, where their pieces are produced. Each piece is only one of around 10-15 made and fabrics are mostly handmade, meaning there’s not one the same due to imperfections which aren’t really imperfections at all.

I styled up the two-piece with a white cover-up I bought at a jumble sale last year;  I believe it was originally a night gown of sorts (?!) but I cut the ribbon ties and now adore its frills and sleeves. It also adds texture to what would be a pretty simple outfit without it.

I’m also still carrying around my What Daisy Did bag which matches my old suede flats so perfectly it’s quite unbelievable, as well as tying in the lenses of my new killer sunnies with the side panel of blue. For someone who was recently given a pair of Rayban’s, you know I love this €4 vintage pair when I haven’t stopped wearing them. I’d been looking for a pair which had a slightly more striking shape than my average round ones and I couldn’t be happier I found these!

Oh, and my choker is never coming off either. It really helped with those jittery nerves of wearing something new…

Do you feel inspired? If so, perhaps you might be interested in nominating Tolly Dolly Posh for an Observer Ethical Award. If you believe my commitment to ethical fashion is award winning, click this link and leave my name, link and a few words in the Young Green Leaders category. 

Changing your shopping habits can often feel daunting and intimidating and you might be left not knowing where to start. Or you’ll most probably be told that second-hand shopping is the route to take. During a read of Clothing Poverty by Andrew Brooks, I conjured up a lot of thoughts and feelings surrounding the topic and why second-hand shopping isn’t the best answer to sustainable fashion.

Outfit from: Sustainable Alternatives to Leather

If you’re a long-time reader of my blog or even just a recent reader of my blogger, you’ll know I’m a dedicated advocate to second-hand, pre-loved, used or vintage clothing. There are so many benefits to buying and wearing clothes and fashionable items that have been worn before and that are in close-to-perfect condition to be used again, so I don’t want anybody to jump to the conclusion I am now against the idea.

For background knowledge; I’ve grown up with accepting and appreciating second-hand fashion. I’ve never found a problem with it. I’ve never been put off or disturbed by the idea of wearing something that isn’t “NWT” (new with tags). Especially since becoming more independent of my own budget and even my own style, second-hand clothing has given me the opportunity to refresh and add to my wardrobe whilst it not being out of my reach.

Over the years, I’ve spent more money at charity shops and at jumble sales, than I have with a brand like Topshop (in fact, I can list everything I own from Topshop straight off the top of my head; a single pair of socks and sunglasses).

Outfits from: Why It’s Okay to Feel Okay // Recycled & DIY Denim

Not only has second-hand shopping benefited my small teenage budget, I also know it has benefitted the environment. What I’ve saved from being taken to a landfill or donated elsewhere, has been added to my wardrobe to be worn even more times than it already had been by its previous owner. If 84% of unwanted clothes in America went into a landfill or an incinerator in 2012, then I’ve participated in playing my part in lowering that number (the number is still obscene in Europe and elsewhere).

I’m also by no means saying second-hand shopping isn’t sustainable. Purchasing second-hand is sustainable, so long as you care for the items as much as you would something new, continue prolonging its life length and that you’re not disposing of them shortly after purchasing just because they’ve had a previous life. My reasoning for suggesting that it isn’t the best answer to sustainable fashion comes from the industry rather than second-hand shopping alone.

Not only have I always appreciated second-hand shopping, I have also always known I’ve wanted to work in fashion (design, specifically). I adore clothes and the ability that comes with them to express ourselves and I don’t want to see that fade. Fashion is a separate entity to ‘clothing’ as such, in the sense that fashion is what changes.

Fashion doesn’t just affect our clothes, it affects other industries like beauty, TV and film, and even sports and lifestyle. The way that fashion works, is what we want to change and understanding that makes it clear how second-hand shopping isn’t the answer.

Outfit from: How to Grow up as a Teen Blogger

Second-hand shopping is an alternative way to start on your journey of becoming more ethically and sustainably conscious as a consumer, it’s not the way to change the fashion industry, and in particular, fast-fashion as a whole. Second-hand shopping is also a way that not all can necessarily partake in.

I understand that curating most of your wardrobe out of previously used garments is in some way, a privilege, especially with sizing. It can also be an unrealistic option if a lot of your purchases of clothing are based on workwear and a specific style – shopping for a strict dress code is most probably going to be easier when buying new (although not impossible to do second-hand, of course).

If we want to change the industry and how it works, whether that be with mindset or manufacturing, we need to focus on the repeat offenders – the big name brands which hold the majority of the power. This doesn’t mean boycotting. Another topic which I would like to research in more detail before discussing it on my blog is the idea of abandoning high-street and fast-fashion brands altogether.

In Fashion Revolution’s fanzine, the Agony Aunt section focused on this. The quick and simple answer? Boycotting only works in large numbers and when it does, it can negatively impact garment workers.

Hauls from: Autumn Shopping // Second-hand Shopping

(I currently don’t shop from any fast-fashion brands, the reason of which is a combination of my ethical beliefs and stance on the issues I discuss on my blog, but also because I have a teen budget and simply don’t want to support the way fast-fashion brands work with the very little disposable income I have.)

Shopping ethically is what we want to do in the meantime, just like second-hand shopping, but it’s all with the end goal of ethics and sustainability being the norm. It’s why raising up those who are doing it right is vital. We need to show those who are lacking in certain areas but holding all the power, that we want them to be doing better. We need them to be doing better. We want fast-fashion brands to just be fashion brands, and for ‘fashion’ to have a whole new meaning.

What are your thoughts on second-hand shopping? Let’s start a discussion in the comments!

I’m sorry for being slightly MIA recently but if you’d like to stay up-to-date with me then make sure you’re following me on Twitter or that you’re subscribed to my monthly newsletter!

I’ve had a bit of writer’s block over the past week or so. I’m full of ideas but the words don’t seem to make much sense when I get my fingers to a keyboard. Showing you my recent outfits is always a good way to inspire me though because I love putting the photos together so much, and the response I get is always somewhat motivational. I’ve been apart from the majority of my wardrobe for over six months now but they are finally back with me and I’m excited to style up some new looks with what I’ve gathered since then. You might remember these DIY jeans…

WHAT I WORE: Vintage Yellow Leather Jacket (Jumble Sale) // Golf Blouse €3.00 (Charity Shop) // Ripped Jeans (DIY + ASOS) // Wanderlust 101 Boots (Dr Martens)* // Denim Chokers (Yours Again)* // Sunglasses (Jumble Sale) // Headscarf (Jumble Sale) // Rings (Unknown)  

These photos have a different colouration to usual as I think its overall aesthetic deserved a greener hue, don’t you? Technically, this is a brand new outfit as I recently took to a charity shop and picked up three new items (make sure you’re following me on Instagram as I often share these sorts of things on my Instagram Story!) which I’ll undoubtedly share in future posts, including this golf print blouse which I almost didn’t take to the check-out.

I think styling often comes easier when you look at an item from a broader perspective rather than the item itself, in detail. I was drawn to the print of the blouse as it reminded me of a vintage scarf print and how it would work well with denim (more on that below) in the summer but was off-put when I realised it as golf themed. I don’t think one would suspect that on first glance though which is what made me push past my hesitance and add it to my wardrobe (the money going to a good cause of course and the item being saved from being passed on elsewhere). 

The hints of red, yellow and blue are what make it a little bit more me. I can add on my trusty yellow jacket and have it blend in seamlessly along with my Dr Martens which have elements of each colour in their print. Don’t forget – there’s sustainability in keeping an item for years on end when the item itself isn’t directly ethical or sustainable, like my boots.

As the title of this post suggests and as I’ve already mentioned, I knew this silk-like shirt would work well with a denim texture clash which brings us back to my DIY, ripped and dip-dyed jeans. I think for most people, the rips would be enough to end their life in a wardrobe but they are still the perfect fit and the rips now allow me to move more freely. Pro tip, though; perhaps don’t rip elasticated jeans as they will just keep. on. ripping. 

The blend of white is what keeps the outfit crisp and clean and leaves for a blanker canvas for accessorising. Also, the block colours of the majority of the outift ties in with the stripes of the shirt. See what I mean about looking at things as a whole? 

~ WHO MADE MY CHOKERS ? ~
Simona Uvarovaite, the founder and designer of Yours Again. Yours Again produce their collections in Lithuania but some pieces are also created in Denmark where Simona is based. Their Instagram is full of behind the scenes photos.

Speaking of accessorising, these chokers from Yours Again (a brand in my ethical directory) came into my life with perfect timing. I’m not one for blouses without a top button (this can be easily fixed with a needle and thread of course) but these recycled denim chokers make up for it and quite frankly look better altogether than what another button would do. I’ve never actually worn chokers before although they have always interested me. I believe it’s because I’m quite lazy in the accessories department. You’ll usually only see me with sunglasses and a handbag.

Yours Again turn used and pre-loved denim and jeans into new pieces whether that be chokers like mine or their first collection of waistcoats and jackets. I understand their pieces are on the higher end of the scale in terms of price but I can tell that they are coming from a committed and loving team which means you’ll be able to treasure the journey and story your clothes have been on. Plus – they look amazing and I can’t wait to style them up again soon.

I also added a headscarf to tie in the green of the blouse and I actually love the outcome. It was a decision I made last minute before stepping out the house and sometimes those sorts of decisions are the best kind.

How would you style up these chokers? Have you been second-hand shopping recently? Let me know in the comments!

I’ll be back soon with (hopefully) lots of new content for Fashion Revolution Week…