lfw review

So now that London Fashion Week AW16 is over, and it’s about time we get to the reviewing and reflecting! I might be doing a Milan Fashion Week review too, seeing as I’m currently in Italy (it seems rather fitting). AW16 seems like it’s going to be a good one, especially in the footwear department. So let’s check out what happened at Brewer Street Car Park… (All images via Vogue.co.uk)

Alexander McQueen // Anya Hindmarch // ASHISH // Burberry // Holly Fulton // House of Holland // Mary Katrantzou // Molly Goddard // Mulberry // Richard Malone // Topshop UNIQUE // Vivienne Westwood

~ ALEXANDER McQUEEN – RATING: 8/10 ~

Another thing you should know by now from my past reviews, is that I love intricate detailing that takes clothing and fashion to a new level of an art form. I love precision and beading and embellishments and all of the small details that come together to create something transformative… and all of that is within the Alexander McQueen AW16 collection.

It’s very feminine in terms of shapes and styles, with lace bras and sheer fabrics being a key focus, but it still has that toughness running through which I think designers have started to do more and more over the years. It’s yet another collection that hints to space and all things dreamlike, with symbolic moons and stars dotted throughout.

It’s regal and every piece has a sense of presence, and I think that’s most definitely true to McQueen. A big congratulations to Sarah Burton on a wonderful collection, especially since she is heavily pregnant… incredible!

~ ANYA HINDMARCH – RATING: 9/10 ~

After becoming slightly uninterested in the whole ‘novelty’ fashion theme, Anya Hindmarch has won me back again with a very tech based, Tetris and Pacman inspired collection that makes for a good inbetween with novelty and good old, high fashion.

First of all, I’ll talk about how incredible the show was (on live stream)… the set had moving Tetris pieces that created and an incredible backdrop to the cast of models, which were walking down the catwalk to a beat that turned into a computer generated voice before they lined up for the final presentation.

It was really quite interesting and I love the question of “Do computers dream when they sleep?” that went along with it. In terms of the actual collection, I also loved it. Like I said, it was a great balance of novelty and true designs all of course with a classic Hindmarch twist.

There were Pacman handbags, Minecraft inspired faux fur and a nod to previous collections with the fried egg symbols and the sticker covered shoes. It was all around, a wonderful collection and such a great show, that will be sure to be a big hit next season.

~ ASHISH – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

Gah, I really do love ASHISH but I think this season was lacking in something. I really love the crayon box inspired idea, with each look being top-to-toe one colour, but it just doesn’t feel as dramatic and exciting as usual. I won’t lie, I’d still like to own most of it, but unfortunately (and I am being very subjective here), this isn’t my favourite collection of the season which is rare for me and ASHISH. It’s a bold move though, with everything being so simple, and for that, I applaud Gupta.

~ BURBERRY – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

With the news of Burberry becoming one of the first brands to transition from the usual fashion week schedule of see now, buy later, it’s interesting to see what’s in store next. What I think is interesting, is that every look is quite different. There is of course the overall theme of masculinity mixing with femininity, slouchy seventies etc… but I would say that usually with Burberry, you can spot out pieces in different variations.

Perhaps this is to do with the change… with people needing things that are totally new. One big thing you can spot is texture; there are sequins and heavily embroidered garments. It is different, but it’s still very Burberry and I’m sure it will be a big hit to those people who get to have a chance at pre-ordering their favourites.

~ HOLLY FULTON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

Another designer who always sticks to her routers, showing a definite signature style throughout is Holly Fulton. Although inspired mainly by David Inshaw’s painting “The Badminton Game”, I can still feel those space age style themes running throughout in a slightly mechanical style… whether that’s just my eyes, I don’t know, but I like it nonetheless.

Intricate, folksy style prints across wide A-line pieces are mixed in with organza creates a lot of drama and activity to a collection that could have been a lot more basic. I love the muted pink tones (I’m a big fan of them right now) so that small addition definitely wins me over.

~ HOUSE OF HOLLAND – RATING: 8/10 ~

A meet in the middle of seventies and twenties inspired pieces, I think I’m starting to fall back in love with HOH. There’s flapper inspired sequin dresses (you know how I love sequins, but really, does anyone do them better than ASHISH? Actually, maybe they can this season…?!) and laid back fits in the form of loose jumpsuits and oversized robe style jackets.

There’s also a hint to the ‘space’ trend that has already started popping up all over (we saw it with Versace’s men’s collection). I would say it’s a nice nod to the late, great, David Bowie, but that was only a small portion of his career so we should take note of that. I think this collection is one of my favourite HOH collections for a long while now.

~ MARY KATRANTZOU – RATING: 8/10 ~

I sort of fell out of love with Katrantzou over the past two seasons but I think this one has won me back, surprisingly. Although there are strong, western cowboy themes throughout, all I can think of when I look at each look is; disco. It’s a party collection at heart and that’s proven by the flashy metallics and bold star prints.

Of course the shirt dresses were a big focus, and they will most definitely be an inspiration for the high street, there’s a lot of other things to be looking out for too… like the faux fur coats which is super interesting to see Mary focusing on, especially in such a bold manner. It really works though and I LOVE it. It’s such a fun collection, that you can still class as beautiful and ethereal, just like last season.

~ MOLLY GODDARD – RATING: 8/10 ~

I love seeing what Molly has to offer because it’s always so genuine and you can tell that so much love and genuine creativity is put into her work. It’s also love to see such a diverse casting of models too… it’s just refreshing. Everything she does is refreshing and I love that.

If I were to personally put a pin into what the collection is to me… it’s a bit like the 2010 version of Alice In Wonderland. It’s dark, mysterious but still playful and girly. There’s bright pastel tones in the form of puffy dresses, but there’s still the full, deep textures and darker shades. It’s a really lovely collection and I’m still totally obsessed with her signature style.

~ MULBERRY – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I feel as if this collection will cause some form of controversy regarding the heritage of Mulberry and its previous collections because as you can see, it’s definitely something new… but is that really a problem? In my opinion, no. I think it’s really refreshing to see something new from such a brand, no matter what we’re used to.

It’s still sleek and streamlined and there are still nods to the shapes that we’re used to, but it feels lighter and I love that. I also love the shoes – I think that’s one thing I’ve noticed across the whole of LFW – AW16 is going to be a good season for footwear.

~ RICHARD MALONE (Fashion East) – RATING: 8/10 ~

Malone is definitely a designer to keep your eyes on. I’ve mentioned many times before but I love streamlined collections that are simple with not too much fuss, yet they still pack a punch, and this is definitely one of them. I absolutely love the use of stripes and shapes. It’s almost nautical, especially with the different shades of blue and the bright yellow breaking things up. I really do love it, and I’ll definitely be looking more into his work.

~ TOPSHOP UNIQUE – RATING: 8/10 ~

With Topshop comes a very similar colour palette to what we saw over with Holly Fulton. Dreamy, woodland colours (and prints) with a strong balance of monochrome at the same time. It’s deep, it’s dark, it’s mysterious and it definitely pulls you in… and dare I say it, a few of those dresses could be classed as sexy. It’s a strong collection and it shows that Topshop are finally finding their UNIQUE feet.

~ VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – RATING: 7/10 ~

When I was watching the show, my first thought was “It’s a marmite collection – you either love it, or you hate it”, so when the Style.com review says that too… well, then I guess that’s exactly how to put it. It’s a classic Westwood collection once again, but that’s nothing new. Every Vivienne Westwood show has classic pieces that you can pick out in each line up.

The shows are rare for that because although you can obviously pick out similarities, it always ends up looking so different with such a different feel. There’s the classic neck lines, there’s the outerwear that hasn’t aged a day and there’s the draping… but it’s all new.

Personally I believe there are nods to the cyber world, a bit like Anya Hindmarch, but then I might just be picking up on similar prints and patterns. It all adds up though… every small detail goes towards the next season as a whole, so I’m sure this collection will influence it.

What did you think of London Fashion Week AW16? Are you excited about what’s in store? Let me know in the comments!

Very recently I have become truly mesmerized by the beauty of which is, Valentino. I feel like I should have been a big fan ever since I became interested in Fashion, but only recently has it really occurred to me to look deeper into the latest collections and the in’s and out’s of the fashion house. I’ve more specifically fallen in love with Valentino’s Pre collections. If you don’t know what that is… it’s another full (or half) collection inbetween a season. It could also be called a “Resort” collection too!

~ VALENTINO PRE SPRING/SUMMER 2016 ~
(Images via Vogue.co.uk)

First, let’s discuss the most recent ‘pre-collection’; Spring/Summer 2016. I recently read a comment on an article where somebody was saying that Valentino was getting boring. I can see why (and you will probably) but I personally can push through all of that, starting with this collection. It is utterly divine.

It’s the most intricate mix of South American inspired pieces, heavily embellished and embroidered florals and sleek silhouettes. As you will see from the other highlights in this post, my heart always falls for the embellishments and embroidery. It honestly makes me squeal inside and I almost find it making me feel speechless. There is something so beautiful about fashion when it becomes more of an art form, and this in my opinion, is a great example.

~ VALENTINO PRE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 ~
(Images via Vogue.co.uk)

This was really the collection that started my adoration for Valentino, and it’s the latest Autumn/Winter edition. When a collection is so clear in direction, it’s another way to make my mouth fall open in awe. I love what Valentino did with the pieces… inspiration coming from both the sky and the Earth, with the beautiful patterns of botanical plants and flowers, and (of course) the embroidery of the stars and planets.

There are also the more simpler and wearable pieces which I believe are representing the “core” of both the collection and the world. The collection was meant to emphasise the fact that fashion can’t change the world, but peace and love can. Honestly the thing that makes me smile the most, is the sheer amount of detail that goes into every piece. It’s beautiful.

~ VALENTINO PRE SPRING/SUMMER 2015 ~
(Images via Vogue.co.uk)

I think this collection shows that Valentino still has the cool factor. There maybe a few repetitive styles (including the ridiculously amazing embroidered dresses), but the collections are still fresh and modern. With this being the collection that most people would be wearing currently (…feels weird seeing as this was on show such a long time ago…), the seventies vibes are spread on thinly throughout every piece.

But, if you go and take a look at the collection for yourself, you’ll see that the real showstopping pieces didn’t feature any suede tassels. A wave of bold prints in rainbow colours attract the most attention. What do you think of the sudden twist in the Valentino Pre Spring/Summer collection? Did it fit in or was it too much of a daring contrast? I like it!

Which Valentino “Pre” collection has been your favourite? I can’t decide! Let me know in the comments…

And so we have come to one of the most important blog posts… The London Fashion Week SS15 review, hooray, hooray! I have tried to be a bit more ‘journalist-y’ this time around, and try to think of what the designer was portraying. I read a piece in the Elle Collections A/W issue and it really inspired me, so I hope this is an interesting read instead of ‘I like this and I don’t like this’. (Images via Vogue.co.uk)

ASHISH
RATING: 8.5/10

Ashish always WOWs me… it’s always so fun and interesting and always has a story to tell. This time around the sequins were made into snake skin prints, back to front jeans and little black dresses. For me the collection was like a disco ball meeting a girls slumber party… sparkle with a splash of faux fur and almost pyjama like silhouettes. I loved the show music too, it was probably the best soundtrack of all the shows I watched. All round amazing-ness from this wonderful designer once again. I need those dungarees and Hi Haters top… yes, pur-lease!

BORA AKSU
RATING: 7.5/10

The collection for SS15’ was based upon fairy tales and the deeper, darker sides. I can definitely see what Aksu is trying to achieve with the dress shapes and silhouettes. The mix of beautiful airy fabrics and the sharper structures portrays this well in my opinion. The overlapping details are the perfect touch also. It’s another stunning collection! Love, love, love.

BURBERRY PRORSUM
RATING: 9/10

I love it when designers really set the scene of a collection. You get to understand what you’re actually seeing and Burberry certainly did that. First of all the catwalk was amazing with it’s beautifully coloured illustrations featuring insects and flowers. The countryside and spring time had a strong influence on all the designs. Elements of tulle, denim and feathers were incorporated and it worked wonderfully. The dresses were feminine and sexy in a really subtle way which I adored. I wasn’t too fond on the slogan prints though…

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN
RATING: 7/10

After watching Susie Bubble Backstage at LFW on BBC iPlayer (I really recommend watching, it’s only 17 mins long!), I was introduced to Christopher Raeburn. I know a lot of bloggers have attended his shows so I’d only really heard of him on Twitter, but I am now obsessed. He seems so cool in person anyway, but his collections are all sustainable and stylish… it’s amazing! In this collection some of the pieces are made from old parachutes in the original colours (PINK!) and some are made from fighter pilot thingy mabobbies (I can’t remember what they are called… well done Tolly!). I love it, the textures, the colours. It’s spot on. Hooray, a collection I love!

FYODOR GOLAN
RATING: 8/10

One of the more striking and colourful collections for next summer has got to be this. The vibrant colours, textures and patterns all flow into each other in the most perfect way. The digital vibes definitely come through, especially with the use of stripes and holographic materials. I’m obsessed with it and I would happily own the whole collection. I would definitely say that patent elements and applique will be a big hit next year.

HOLLY FULTON
RATING: 7/10

As soon as the first model hit the runway you knew it was Fulton’s work, which I think is stopping me from loving her that much… she stays safe every season… I’m not saying I didn’t like the collection, because I did! The use of modern textures and styles with classic and more retro pieces was perfect.. I especially like the patent bandeaus. I don’t really have much more to say… what do you think of it?

HOUSE OF HOLLAND
RATING: 7/10

I have to be honest live stream probably made this collection look a lot worse than it is. I’m going to have to say it that’s it not my favourite collection from Mr Holland, but I do really like it’s vibe, looking at it more closely. Embellished applique flowers, physadelic 70s/60s inspired pieces, holographic skirts, bold yellows and oranges… it’s a lovely mixture. In fact I’m really looking forward to seeing these kinds of styles pop up during 2015… I’m just still not 100% sure that Holland excuted it perfectly… and erm, I think some of the models need some training in walking in heels… yikes!

MARY KATRANTZOU
RATING: 7/10

Change is sometimes for the better but I am still on the fence with Mary’s change from patterns and prints to texture… I would say the collection tells more of a story compared to her previous ones and for me that’s a big improvement. The sharp difference between the greys and more dull (sorry…) pieces and the more intricate and mermaid pieces really encaptured the vision. I’m not going to say I loved it, but I liked it for sure.

SIBLING
RATING: 8/10

This collection for me was an interesting one. I loved it in many ways and in many ways it just wasn’t my taste. It was meant to portray being young, happy and free and I totally see this especially with the striking colours and patterns. I love the use of blue check though, it looks so classic yet in a modern way. Sequins and big puffy tutu skirts… they’re always a winner!

TOM FORD
RATING: 6/10

Well.. well. I definitely see a trend coming for next summer and it’s not summery at all… dark colours, wintery styles in the form of jackets and two pieces. It really is a very strong contrast to what SS is usually about. The collection inspired by the sixties, with classic remakes of designs from the past. For me it was definitely made for A-Listers and posh soirees… the theme was strong and I liked the whole aesthetic but I really hope that colour is still ‘in’!

TOPSHOP UNIQUE
RATING: 8/10

Ahh blimming heck Topshop, you’ve done it again. The thing I love about the show is that it’s always got that chic designer element (the ‘Unique’ part) but then it’s still true to Topshop’s accessible name so it’s wearable too. I can’t quite put my thumb on it though… is it a modern sporty vibe or is it a retro sporty vibe? I think it could be both and that’s awesome to see. The second half was beautiful too, with more tulle (definitely in for SS15… yay!) and of course Cara made everything more amazing. She’s perfect… sassy, stylish and blimming gorgeous.

Well it is fair to say that it hasn’t been my most favourite LFW… the collections just weren’t my taste… bring back colour! What did you think? Let me know your favourite collections and designers I should be looking out for in the comments! I’d love to know! I suppose I will see you next season… (…or in 2 days with another London Fashion Blog Week post!)