fyodor golan

It’s that time of the year… the fashion month is coming to a close, all my thoughts are in my notebook and I’m ready for my big London Fashion Week SS16 review to be shared with the world! It’s a bit longer than usual mainly because I’ve really started to dig a little deeper into each collection rather than just say what I like about each piece. I hope you like it and to make things easier, I’ve added some handy links for you to skip to certain designers… enjoy! (All marvellous images are via VOGUE.co.uk)

Anya Hindmarch // Bora Aksu // Burberry Prorsum // Christopher Kane // Erdem // Fyodor Golan // Holly Fulton // House of Holland // JW Anderson // Mary Katrantzou // Molly Goddard // Paul Smith // Peter Pilotto // Topshop UNIQUE

~ ANYA HINDMARCH – RATING: 6/10 ~

Part of me wants to love this collection, but part of me is realising that novelties are simply just, novelties. Anya Hindmarch once again put the ordinary in luxury with logo covered handbags from familiar UK brands like John Lewis, Nationwide, Mothercare and Boots (Boots boots… get it?).

Of course it’s clever and it works well but do we really want to see another novelty collection of designer handbags? It’s a bit like Moschino’s latest ranges… it’s fun, quirky and it works well, but is it really enough? RATING: 6/10

~ BORA AKSU – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I’d say for SS16, Bora Aksu took a slightly masculine, “equestrian” route. Although it still has it’s mainly feminine routes with neutral shades of soft flowing tulle. It’s almost so neutral it could be classed as failry bridal which works out well seeing as the other colours that are included are combined into floral prints and textures.

But then, as I mentioned, the more masculine themes of dressage come through (although I could be totally wrong), with tightly belted blazers and buttoned up blouses. Overall the collection is perfect for spring and summer but personally (and subjectively) I wasn’t overly as excited as previous seasons. RATING: 7/10

~ BURBERRY PRORSUM – RATING: 9/10 ~

Burberry are one classic brand full of heritage with an innovative plan. New ideas never seem to fail, whether that’s on the catwalk, or off. This rather dark SS16 collection was launched not only at LFW but also, on Snapchat.

If you know Burberry, you’ll know how they harness the online world so it’s really interesting to see. It’s also interesting to see how the collection that was broadcasted over Snapchat is the one that is rather wearable and versatile… you see? 💰

Full of intricate shapes and textures, biker jackets and rucksacks it’s definitely a seller. The use of mesh and tulle make up for the lack of summery colours for summery layering. It’s bound to be an SS16 favourite for everyone. RATING: 9/10

~ CHRISTOPHER KANE – RATING: 8/10 ~

Inspired by repair from old to new, Christopher’s Kane’s collection is another beauty. Full of colour amongst darkness, artistic looking shapes and details (inspired by sculptor John Chamberlain) and scraps of different fabrics; it’s a beautiful mess.

Neon brights to match the emerging SS15 trends, and a hint of tailoring. It’s artistic and it definitely has me hooked… just like any collection with a meaning does! RATING: 8/10

~ ERDEM – RATING: 8/10 ~

I often forget Erdem when it comes to talking about designers but I’m honestly always impressed. I’ve noticed a lot of monochrome for next summer and Erdem has impressed me the most. The collection is dark and mysterious… as if every girl (look/model) has a strong story to tell about how she got here.

Well, actually, we already know that… by boat (yup, I believe a boat was part of the dramatic performance). There was a softer side though, flowing tulle in pastels with soft floral embroidery scattered all over. It’s a beautiful collection and you can definitely admire it as artwork. RATING: 8/10

~ FYODOR GOLAN – RATING: 10/10 ~

The collection is expressive and fun and is a perfect fit for a “summer party girl” with bright neon shades throughout each look, shimmery metallics and fun daytime florals on transparent PVC. The classic digital style from Golan’s latest collections are still a key feature with robots hidden throughout.

It’s a great example of the “wearable art” trend that has been floating around, with a nod to the Great Wave of Kanagawa. It’s as if each looks is a different life form with such varying artistic visions… but somehow, it flows together beautifully. It’s as if each girl (look/model) is on the same mission, but they’re taking on the task in their own individual way. RATING: 10/10

~ HOLLY FULTON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

This season brought familiarity with a twist from Holly Fulton. Full of classic Fulton features like applique and sleek shapes. It was slightly different though, with denim jackets and neon brights. It felt full of glamour but with a casual edge to it. It even had the slight familiar vibes of the 2015 seventies trend.

Apparently the collection was inspired by surrealist artists Eileen Agar, which makes sense. Surrealism after all is about the familiar… but a little bit off. RATING: 7.5/10

~ HOUSE OF HOLLAND – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I know what you’re thinking… that’s not House of Holland/! But it is… depending on who you are, depends on whether you would put “sadly” before “But it is…”, so I’ll leave it for you to decided. The shapes are familiar, they’re laid-back and loose… nothing too extreme, but the dresses are free of cartoonish prints and neon brights… everything is slightly more mature and intricate.

I’m probably exaggerating a little because the fun is still there with the striped socks (hey, look who’s trendy?), mixed prints, faux fur and colourful bags. It’s as if House of Holland has started something new… perhaps a gradual transition? RATING: 7.5/10

~ JW ANDERSON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

It’s interesting to know why designers do certain things especially when a set style has been noticed across other collections so when I read what Anderson looked into upon creating this collection, the answer of “survival” intrigued me. Tight knitted pieces (I think the figure hugging silhouette will be big for SS16) and overly padded suits that resemble army uniforms and armour are a key focus point.

Feminine pieces like ruffled tea dresses and even rather skimpy bras reflect the power of a woman on her own (sans armour etc). Each piece ammits a sense of power that translates to every kind of woman. It’s not the usual kind of collection that I’d be interested in but the meaning behind it draws me in, a bit like Christopher Kane. RATING: 7.5/10

~ MARY KATRANTZOU – RATING: 8/10 ~

For me SS16 at MK brought the “best bits”. It’s a simple and sleek selection of designs, all with features that are classic Katrantzou. My favourite pieces are of course the highly detailed and embellished party dresses. They feel familiar but in a more exciting way. Although I believe most of the detailing is fairly floral, it reminds me of far away galaxies with the shimmer and sparkle. It’s a perfect party collection and a great move for Mary Katrantzou. Plus, after reading up on why she’s shifted away from digitalised styles, it’s made me appreciate her work a lot more. RATING: 8/10

~ MOLLY GODDARD – RATING: 9/10 ~

After watching the latest episode of Alexa Chung’s VOGUE series, I had to include Molly’s collection. She seems so genuine and her success is no surprise. For her SS16 presentation, Molly opted for a sandwich factory theme (perhaps a nod to the fashion industry?) with her signature tulle dresses that I would die to own.

Among the tulle and bread crusts were tartan and ruffles in light and loving colours to suit the usual British summertime. Smock style midi dresses also featured among the intricate ruffles. It’s a perfect little range of perfect colours and shapes. I really would love to know about the sandwiches though… RATING: 9/10

~ PAUL SMITH – RATING: 8/10 ~

A rather 1980s inspired collection comes from the one and only Paul Smith. It’s a very simple collection as usual but that’s what I like to see. It’s wearable but it still looks interesting and eye-catching. It features 80s tailoring and bright block colours in satins and drapy dresses.

A print that I have noticed across several collections so far is floral pointillism. Small, intricate and dotty, it adds that note of interest and finer details that Smith is known for and it will of course be a big wearable hit. RATING: 8/10

~ PETER PILOTTO – RATING: 9/10 ~

I couldn’t quite pin down the inspiration behind this collection but for some reason I keep getting pulled back to the technical side of fashion. It’s as if the designer duo took what they knew and actually applied it to the physical designs… I could be totally wrong though.

It’s another collection with that sort of uniform/armour feeling to it. Strapped jackets and white stitching to highlight the making of darker simple pieces. Sporty like zip up tops that could have come from some sort of dystopian movie… it’s such a jumble as everything sticks to Pilotto’s feminine and signature style. I’ll call it a pastel fashion army for now. RATING: 9/10

~ TOPSHOP UNIQUE – RATING: 7/10 ~

If I were to review this from a very subjective, personal view, then I’d probably say I wasn’t that bothered… but stepping away from that I think it’s rather interesting. It still feels like a Topshop show, edgy and casual with those hi-low budget vibes but this season for me… it seems more like a designer show. It feels somewhat separate to the Topshop brand we all know and love, but in a fitting way.

I believe it’s probably the sharp tailoring that does it and the almost Valentino-esque numbers. The collection is obviously 80s inspired (a decade on from SS15) with broad shouldered pieces and big voluminous hair to match. Like I said, it’s not necessarily to my personal taste but I can definitely see it’s potential. RATING: 7/10

What did you think about the collections from London Fashion Week SS16? Let me know in the comments!

Another season, another collection review! This time, it’s London Fashion Week AW 15. Unfortunately I didn’t get to watch as many shows as I’d have liked as I have been pretty busy these past few days, but I’m still happy to share my thoughts as usual. Don’t forget to tell me what you think about each collection and if you had any other favourites. Images all via VOGUE!

ANYA HINDMARCH
RATING: 10/10

Oh. my. WOW. Another collection which has completely blown me away. To some people it may all seem quite basic but I love the way each season is put together. There is something so satisfying about the way the bags look (and feel, I bet). Hindmarch takes something so simple and makes it into a bold and striking theme. Not only are the accessories divine, but the clothes are too. I especially love the printed jumpsuits (they might be 2 pieces, I can’t tell), and the nods to Little Chef (mainly because my family ate their the day before I was born… haha!). It’s just such a cool collection that is just so appealing and satisfying to look at.

ERDEM
RATING: 7/10

For this season I was really impressed. I think when a designer can really nail a signature style on the head, yet pull in so many different influences and make it work, they’re doing the right thing. Erdem always feature opulent fabrics and show-stopping numbers, but I felt like this season was toned down, yet vamped up all at the same time. More colour and texture than previous seasons. Intricacy and small details add to the charm of each piece and make them feel like a precious heirloom to which anyone would be honored to own.

FYODOR GOLAN
RATING: 7/10

I like the feel of this collection. It still feels like the good old SS 15′ collection which Fyodor Golan curated, but with a more casual and laid-back feel. My favourite elements were the slimline silhouettes and grey and pastel hues. The striking green platform heels keep it fun and alive… just like the My Little Pony character which is featured in a few of the looks. It’s a cool and fuss-free collection but is still dramatic and daring enough to keep us all interested.

HOLLY FULTON
RATING: 9/10

WOW. Holly Fulton has actually won me over for the first time in a long while. This collection was gorgeous. To me it feels like Barbie all grown up, when really it’s meant to feel like a throwback to sixties glamour, which I think sums it right up. It’s playful but elegant all in one. It’s the sort of collection that works for anyone; your style and personality decides what the dress should look and feel like. More grey tones with bold, minimal prints. I love this collection, do you?

JONATHAN SAUNDERS
RATING: 6/10

I feel like the fashion industry just keeps going back to the archives at the moment. One moment we’re going forward and the next we’re going back the other way. Jonathan Saunders’ is still fairly new to me, so I don’t really know what to expect. Another nod to 60’s mods; fun and minimal but hidden naughtiness in lace up boots and flashes of skin. I will say it again, I adore structure and smooth lines so the shapes included are appealing to me. It’s an ‘easy’ collection in my mind…

MINNAN HUI
RATING: 10/10

A brand new designer to me, and I am OBSESSED. If you can show me colour, shape and texture all in one, then I’m sold. How beautiful?! It may not be the most wearable of collections for the everyday gal’, but some elements are just awesome. Abstract shapes, not only in print but in the way the clothes are worn too, mean that there is always something new to look at. A few of the looks sort of remind me of David Bowie and his Ashes to Ashes costume… big shoulders and overflowing material layering over each other. A big thumbs up to Minnan Hui… I shall definitely be taking a further look into previous collections!

TOPSHOP UNIQUE
RATING: 6.5/10

Ahhh Topshop. I feel like I can express my personal opinion upon this collection, so here we go! I like it. Ha! I don’t think it’s anything too special. So many designers are still clinging onto current trends, and perhaps Topshop should let go. It’s too similar to everything that is already around. Topshop Unique is meant to be worn by a specific shopper in mind, and I believe this limits them sometimes. Do you get what I mean? Let me know!

Make sure to tell me what your favourite collection was and if I missed out any gems! I’d love to know 🙂

(Featured header image via London Fashion Week)

As you may know, London Fashion Week recently ended, and now the calm as come, I thought I would do my ‘AW14′ London Fashion Week Collections Review’. Although I preferred SS14 I did find a lot of collections that I thought were quite nice, so it ends up that I have to do this in 2 parts, which is kinda’ cool because it means you have another one of these posts to look forward to! I hope you like it…

Ashish: Unfortunately, I was quite unimpressed with the Ashish collection. In SS14, I was quite simply, in love, but with this one… something just didn’t click. I like the use of casual wear mixed with formal wear, and I like all the sparkles and pastels, but I just don’t really…. get it. It’s a bit plain compare to the SS14, and although it is still absolutely gorgeous, it’s just not up to my standards (#fussytolly). My favourite piece is probably that amazing prom dress though… LOOK AT IT.  Oh and those shoes are a collaboration with Topshop, so I think they will be on my wishlist as they LIGHT UP! Rating: 9/10

Bora Aksu: Oh my. There are no words. Bora Aksu has done it again. The collection was divine. It’s got those traditional shapes, and those amazing colours, and that perfect mix of sequin and leather. It’s perfect. My favourite piece is the monochrome dress (far left) and the grey and white sequin dress (middle). I tried doing the hairstyle and dressed in my ARK pinafore* over a white dress, but sadly I didn’t look as fabulous… I LOVE YOU BORA! Rating: 100/10 

David Koma: One of my favourite shows of SS14 was David Koma, and although I like elements of this collection, I just don’t think it is my favourite anymore. I really like the structure though, and the colours used are brilliant. I also love the use of leather. My favourite piece in this collection is probably the beige dress (left), but I also quite like the collared leather dress (right). As I said, it’s not my favourite collection, but it’s still really lovely and he has stuck to his amazingly structured dresses! Rating: 7.5/10

Erdem: Erdem has never been one of the eye catching designers for me, but this year they made it something special. I’m not sure whether it is the metallic or the intricate detailing on the dresses, but it is just stunning. The shapes, and the colours are beautiful. I could definitely see myself wearing the gold dress (far left). It reminds me of an eagle, and it also has a slight Egyptian feel to it, but then when you look at the other pieces they have a quite Oriental feel to them. It’s extremely interesting! Rating: 10/10

Fashion East – Ashley Williams: I really enjoy watching the Fashion East show as there is always multiple collections to look at. I didn’t particularly like any of them this season, but I thought Ashley Williams had something a little different. I like her use of print and sequins and bold colour as well as metallics. Her interesting way of using the horse on jackets and skirts made me smile as well because it was like they were alive. Intriguing is how I would describe it. Rating: 7/10

Felder Felder: I like wearable collections when it comes to fashion week because what is the point in selling a collection which isn’t wearable? That is why I like this one. It’s simple, but specific things make it different. Like the prints, and the textures. I also really like the shapes. The two piece (right) is specifically interesting because it looks 3 dimensional in a way but it also looks like snake skin. It’s a very clever collection and I bet lots of high street stores will be looking at it for inspiration! Rating: 8.5/10

Fyodor Golan: WOW. When I saw this collection I was like, what?! That’s incredible! It’s like this magical ball of colour and texture. It’s like they are all creatures, from the sea and from on land. The metallics are awesome and I love the OMFG sweater because it could mean the rude version but it could also mean Oh My Fyodor Golan which I think is pretty cool. I cannot pick a favourite piece because they are all SO amazing. I honestly think this is one of my favourite collections of AW14. Rating: 1000/10 (not this again ahaha)

Holly Fulton: This is what I call the ‘Star Wars’ collection. I mean, those appliqué dresses just look so… modern and Star War-sy. But then there are those pastel blue pieces, and the evening gowns. It’s a mish mash and I’m not sure I like it. I’ve never really been a big fan of Holly Fulton, and I just feel this is just a bit odd. Rating: 6/10

House of Holland: I’m not happy. I’m not happy because the House of Holland collection wasn’t that great. It wasn’t anything special. I only liked the really bold colourful pieces because that is my personal liking, but usually I like it all. Unfortunately there wasn’t anything really ‘WOAH’, it was all ‘Meh, seen it before’. Of course I would be totally happy to have all of it in my wardrobe, but it’s just not fabulous enough. Rating: 7.5/10

Leutton Postle: I’ve never actually heard of this designer, but I like them a lot. I would wear all of the collection and I think it is a perfect AW range. It’s not too dark and dim, but it’s not overly bright, it’s just right. My favourite is the look with the orange background on the left. It’s just perfect and I am actually in love. It’s no Fyodor Golan, but it is gorgeous. Rating: 100/10 

I really hope you liked my review of London Fashion Week AW14. Do make sure to let me know what your favourite collection of this, Part 1, as I’d love to know! Thanks so much guys, tata for now! 😀

(All images are via Vogue)