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How to Encourage Conscious Consumption & Stay Motivated | Q&A

By April 8, 2019 Ethical, My Style

Your mind can be overflowing with questions when you first enter the world of ethics and sustainability; in fact, it will probably stay that way for the foreseeable future and for a good reason. Having issues close to your heart and being sparked by curiosity is what helps move us forward, so, to help aid this – I’m answering some of your questions in an easy Q&A format…

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas


WHAT I WORE: Denim Jacket (G-STAR RAW)* // White Rollneck Sweater (Charity shop) // Pink Tartan Kilt (Charity shop) // White Sneakers (YATAY)*


How do you spot greenwashing?

If you’re unsure what the term ‘greenwashing’ means, it’s essentially when sustainable or environmental concerns get glossed over by small (or even false) attempts at being sustainably conscious, intentionally or not.

If you take a look through my archives, I’ve answered this question previously and explained in more detail about what greenwashing really is. Some of my tips included looking at whether a brand is shouting about ethics or not; looking at what information is easily accessible and finding out what progress a brand is making.

For example, if a fashion brand launches a new ‘sustainable collection’, try and find out exactly what sustainable means and whether sustainable principles go into every detail. If that ‘sustainable collection’ is based on using recycled materials, that’s a great step in the right direction, however – if the garment workers who manufacture that collection are still being underpaid, you do have to ask where the brand’s priorities really lay.

I personally always pay attention to what the brand is shouting about or what its overall brand ethos is; trust your gut and work from there. Obviously, it is important to appreciate minor steps a brand makes in becoming more sustainable but in a time where we have an 11-year countdown clock until irreversible effects of climate change could occur, I think we need much bigger commitments and fast.

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

Do you have any advice on encouraging other people to buy less fast-fashion without seeming rude or demanding?

I’m sure many people can relate to this frustration. Trust me, I’ve been there having conversations over the dinner table which have ended up heated and alive with passion. It’s not fun to have the principles close to your heart, seemingly attacked, or to have people become defensive and offended because they think you’re implying that they, a single individual, are the reason behind bad working conditions in clothing factories and the toxic dyes and chemicals being poured into rivers.

I believe consistency and subtlety are key. Be consistent by making it obvious it’s something you care about but be subtle in how you approach it – it could be by explaining why you would rather pop into a charity shop than a high-street store when out shopping with a friend, or it could be suggesting a really great documentary you watched (like The True Cost), when somebody asks you what they should watch on Netflix.

You could also gift educational books if you want people to understand why you care about a certain issue so much. Not only will this provide them with the tools to shift their mindset themselves but it will also enable them to learn more about you

This can apply to a lot of sensitive topics, not just the topic of conscious consumption and buying less fast-fashion.

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

Top tips for buying ethical clothing on a budget?

This is always a common question, understandably. I have three different answers. Firstly – shop second-hand if you’re able to. I understand that second-hand shops aren’t always accessible to everyone and that depending on where you look, thrifting isn’t always size-inclusive. However, it’s always the most affordable and sustainable option.

You don’t even really have to think about ethics because you’re not buying new (you might just want to understand where your money goes if it’s a charity shop or part of a chain of thrift-stores).

Secondly – shop the sales of ethically-focused brands. They do have them and it’s a great way to support brands who align with your values when your budget is limited.

Lastly – shift your mindset! This is the ‘alternative’ answer because it takes time to fully grasp a hold of. The more you learn, the more you’ll end up caring and for me, that looked like drastically cutting down on what I was buying, leaving me more room to save up and spend on investment purchases.

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

Fast-fashion Greenwashing Q&A - Charity shop outfit ideas

What sort of things should I be investigating when trying to find out how ethical a fashion brand is?

My greenwashing piece is also a great one to read for this, as it breaks down the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index and the different types of commitments major brands are starting to make. It might also be helpful to make sure you know the difference between ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ because those lines can become blurred, making it harder to work out what brands are the right fit for you.

Luckily for you, I have a whole post dedicated to the definitions of ‘ethical fashion’ and ‘sustainable fashion’.


How do you stay motivated? I often feel very discouraged and like it’s not worth it.

I’d heard this dozens of times in the past and it always made a little defensive because I had reasons as to why I wasn’t but… getting out there really helps. I’ve only just started taking my activism work out into the real world (i.e off of the internet) but experiencing it in more tangible ways, has already made a huge impact in how I view the work that I’m doing and what I’m doing it for.

It has also made me feel less alone because seeing faces on a screen is so different from having flowing conversations and debates, face-to-face. One of my favourite experiences so far was attending one of the Youth Climate Strikes in London; there were 20,000 other young people marching alongside me and for once, having hope didn’t feel quite so naive.

If you’re under 25, I suggest following Extinction Rebellion’s Youth group to see how you can get involved with their protests and campaigns.


Have any more questions? Leave them as a comment and I’ll see how I can help!

(All items marked with an asterisk* were gifted to me within the past year)

 

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How the UK Government Can Make Fashion Sustainable

By February 19, 2019 Ethical

Last year and into 2019, the UK’s parliamentary Environmental Audit Committee has been investigating the sustainability of the UK fashion industry, leading up to the final report which includes recommendations for the Government, who have two months to respond.

Fixing Fashion - Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Report Review


The Fixing Fashion report can be read in full, here.


For those of you who missed my initial piece on the inquiry, I would highly recommend going back to take a read. I interviewed Mary Creagh MP, who is the Chair of the Environmental Audit Committee. In the piece, I discussed the purpose of the inquiry and some of the main issues and concerns being raised as evidence was being put forward.

Now, after over six months, the final report – Fixing Fashion – has been released. Although the Government does have two months to respond, it is under no obligation to accept the recommendations suggested in the report – which would be a crushing blow, considering the fact that the majority of the issues raised throughout the inquiry haven’t exactly been surprising.

It would also be a defeat because, as the report states, in the UK, we are buying more clothes than any other European country; therefore, we are also responsible for a greater environmental impact, than any other European country – which of course, doesn’t just affect the UK, alone.

If you’re less aware of some of the key issues we’re facing when it comes to effects of fashion in the UK – specifically, fast-fashion -, here are some of the main facts to remember:

☛ An estimate of 1.13 million tonnes of clothing was bought in the UK in 2016

☛ Roughly 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 emissions are created per year by textile production (which is more than international flights and maritime shipping put together)

☛ Less than 1% of clothing is recycled into new clothing at the end of its life

☛ WRAP estimates that £140 million worth of clothes end up in landfill every year

☛ Over 500 billion new t-shirts are projected to be produced by 2030

All statistics and quotes in this piece were taken from the full report by the EAC.


And although there might not be a specific statistic or piece of data to show for it, we also know that transparency within the industry is a factor that plays a part too; sustainability and ethics-wise.

Fixing Fashion - Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Report Review

For example, in the report, Boohoo (or Boohoo Group), stated that they do not see the benefits of joining the ETI (the Ethical Trading Initiative; an alliance that protects the rights of workers around the world). Carol Kane, Boohoo Group’s co-founder and joint Chief Executive said, “being members we will be required to publish our whole supply chain, which is currently our engine room”.

Carol Kane was also asked about Boohoo’s position on workers unions and the report quotes her saying, “if the workers would like it”. You can read my piece that covers the Bangladesh Accord, here, as it goes into detail as to why initiatives similar to the ETI, as well as unions, are so vital to the protection of garment workers.

Boohoo wasn’t the only brand which provided evidence to the inquiry. Within the report, there is a table of retailer’s responses which is an eye-opening record of the actions and commitments that many well known British brands are and are not achieving. Missguided and Boohoo were two of the worst offenders, shockingly alongside Amazon UK.

So, what are the recommendations being put forward to the Government? I’ve listed below some of the suggestions that stood out to me. They are a mix of ethically focused and sustainability-focused suggestions but the two go very much, hand-in-hand…

Fixing Fashion - Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Report Review

Made in the UK should mean workers are being paid fairly…

There is known evidence that garment workers in the UK (yes, the UK itself, not just overseas) are being underpaid. Leicester is one of the main textile manufacturers in the country, home to 700 factories employing 10,000 textile workers, and under a study by the University of Leicester, it was found that the majority of garment workers in the city, were earning below the National Minimum Wage – this is the attitude towards a known situation onshore, at home.

This one quote from the chairman of the Textile Manufacturer Association of Leicestershire, Saeed Khliji, stood out to me in particular – “None of the retailers are giving us an ethical price. An extra £2 or £2.50 on a garment would sort everything out. Instead they squeeze us for pennies. If they don’t sell everything, they send it back and charge us for the carriage. If we are an hour or 30 minutes late with delivery they fine us £500. I have been told of one retailer who is making £2 million a year from fines.

The committee urges that HRMC’s National Wage team (which the report states, investigates employers at a rate meaning the average employer can expect an inspection around once every 500 years), is provided with greater resourcing, in order to ensure the ‘Made in UK’ label, actually means what most of us believe it to.

Fixing Fashion - Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Report Review

Retailers failing to report and comply with the Modern Slavery Act should be faced with a penalty…

According to the report, the Public Accounts Committee raised the concern that the Government does not monitor whether statements made under the Modern Slavery Act comply with legislation and that it has never used its powers to penalise companies that do not comply.

The Home Office Minister Victoria Atkins MP said, “In terms of companies that have reported: we know that around 60% of businesses that we believe to be within scope have put up statements; 60% of companies in total.”

From my own personal reading of the report, there is an awful lot of uncertainty surrounding the Modern Slavery Act, when it seems as if it should be the bare minimum when it comes to the expectations put upon major brand names.

The Government should ban incinerating or landfilling unsold stock that can be reused or recycled…

This recommendation is another I would hope the Government would read as a matter of urgency. Lucy Siegle wrote about this topic when the news broke that Burberry was destroying old stock –

There are 101 processes that go into making a garment, from harvesting plants for raw fibre, to the processing and finishing of textile yarns involving thousands of litres of water. There are hundreds of hours of human labour too. Similarly, high-end cosmetics are a drain on resources in terms of both raw ingredients from the natural world and processing. To input all of these resources and then to squander them by burning (recovering only a tiny proportion of that energy) is pure madness given the backdrop of ecological emergency that we face.”

For anyone curious, Burberry’s 2017/2018 Annual Report stated that the cost of finished goods physically destroyed in the year was £28.6 million (2017: £26.9 million), including £10.4 million of destruction for Beauty inventory.

Fixing Fashion - Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Report Review

Lessons on designing, creating, mending and repairing clothes should be taught in schools…

I was fortunate enough to go to a school where I experienced using a sewing machine and learning how to thread a needle but for a lot of people, going out and buying a new coat to replace the one you own that’s missing a button, is often the easier option due to this lack of knowledge.

Not only does this recommendation approach the issue surrounding throw-away fashion, but it also approaches the added benefits to a make-do-and-mend attitude being taught from a young age, as crafting is known to be beneficial for mental health and those tackling anxiety.

An Extended Producer Responsibility scheme for companies that take positive action to reduce waste, should be introduced…

An EPR is a policy where producers are given responsibility for the treatment or disposal of products they put on the market, whether it be financially or physically. An EPR has already been introduced into other countries across Europe, including France.

A charge of one penny per garment could raise around £35 million, which could be invested into better clothing collection and sorting around the UK, diverting a large number of unwanted and unusable clothes from landfill.

Fixing Fashion - Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Report Review

The Government should reduce VAT on repair services…

This is another recommendation which would help slow down the rate at which consumers dispose of clothing, making repair services more accessible, allowing for people to hold onto their clothes for longer and take care of them when wear and tear begins to occur. Sweden has already taken this approach successfully, reducing VAT rates on repairs to bicycles, clothes and shoes from 25% to 12%.


If you’re wondering if there is any way for you to get involved – there is! Fashion Revolution has just released a postcard template you can use to send to your local UK public officials, to ensure they know how important the report is to you and the future of the fashion industry. Click here to download it and print it off.

With time running out and the fashion industry working faster than ever, I would hope that these suggestions would be taken seriously. There are many other points raised that I haven’t even touched upon, so, if you have the time, I would highly recommend reading through the report and seeing what stands out to you the most.

If you could add a recommendation to the Fixing Fashion report, what would it be?

 

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What Is the Bangladesh Accord and Why Do We Need to Protect It?

By January 24, 2019 Ethical

I know that bite-sized breakdowns of information are often the best way of getting things across, so, in this post, I’m going to explain what the Bangladesh Accord is, in simple terms. It might not even be something you’re aware of, so perhaps this will even be a little eye-opening…

What Is the Bangladesh Accord - Ethical Fashion Education


Scan of Fashion Revolution’s Zine Issue #1 – Artwork by Alke Schmidt


What is the Bangladesh Accord?

The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh was founded in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse, in May 2013. It was initiated by trade unions – organised groups of workers formed to protect their rights in the workplace – in Bangladesh, as well as global unions and labour rights groups.

The Accord required all companies and brands who signed it to be completely transparent in revealing their factories and putting in place building inspections to ensure that the factories being used were safe from any dangerous hazards, relating to fire, electricity and structural safety.

It is also asked of those brands signed onto the Accord, to be responsible for finding the funds to implement any changes or safety measures that were needed should they appear upon inspection.

One of the most important factors the Accord put in place, was the right for workers to refuse unsafe work without losing pay or suffering any form of discrimination or harm – I highlight this, as it is known workers involved in the Rana Plaza collapse voiced concerns about the factory’s condition before it occurred.

Essentially, the Bangladesh Accord ensured the safety of garment workers, those of which provide the clothes for hundreds of brands worldwide, including those which had signed on since 2013.

H&M, G-Star RAW, Arcadia Group, Debenhams, Fat Face, John Lewis, Marks & Spencer, Matalan, Mothercare, New Look, Next, Primark, and River Island, are some of the names included.

What Is the Bangladesh Accord - Ethical Fashion Education

What has the Bangladesh Accord achieved?

In 2012, prior to the Rana Plaza disaster, there was the Tanzeen Fashion factory fire, which killed over 100 people and injured over 200. Similar incidents have also occurred since then, with 24 people killed in a packaging factory in 2016 (although not directly linked to garments, it’s a clear sign that this issue goes further than clothing production).

In an update released by the Accord in December 2018, 97% factories inspected lacked safe fire exits and 91% of factories required an adequate fire alarm system. These are basic needs you would expect of a factory, yet, they were still lacking and putting workers at risk. Instability of factory buildings was also found at 62% of those inspected.

(As somebody who has experience with earthquakes, the photo evidence in the update released reminded me of structural damage I’ve seen and felt unsafe with, in person – and that’s just from a house, not a building which is supposed to withhold heavy loads and powerful machinery.)

The Accord successfully worked at putting these sorts of safety and structural measures in place.


Is the Bangladesh Accord still in place?

In 2018, the new Transition Accord was put in place to ensure the continuation of the Accord in protecting the safety and rights of garment workers – and textile workers, as a whole. However, the Government of Bangladesh have since decided they would like to get rid of the Accord and the take on the responsibility with the national organisation known as the RCC or ‘Remediation Coordination Cell‘.

The Accord states that the RCC is not prepared to take on the responsibility due to lack of staffing and knowledge. The Accord would like to continue the work being done until 2021, as agreed upon when work first began, in order to transfer the knowledge and continue to aid the hundreds of factories which are still lacking in safe working conditions.

Without the Accord monitoring factories at such a scale, it’s possible that there would be no way to guarantee fixes are being put in place, meaning brands under the Accord would have to cut ties with their factories – as part of their legal agreement -, which could run the risk of Bangladesh losing a substantial amount of business in manufacturing, leaving many without jobs and income. This helpful article by Fashion United breaks it down even further.

What Is the Bangladesh Accord - Ethical Fashion Education

What does this mean about the clothes we buy?

Due to the fact that Bangladesh is the 2nd largest producer of clothing in the world, it’s safe to say that a majority of what we wear is still being produced in what the Accord has found to be unsafe working conditions, putting millions of garment workers at risk every day, for our benefit – and this isn’t counting any of the discriminatory behaviour, harassment or abuse that occurs in these factories on a daily basis, the majority of which is towards exploited and underpaid female workers.

In most recent news in early January 2019, there has been a protest from Bangladeshi garment workers fighting for higher wages which caused the death of one worker and left many injured, after clashes with the police.


What can we do about it?

Support organisations such as Clean Clothes Campaign, who were one of the initial witnesses of the signing of the Accord, by sending a letter to the Bangladesh Prime Minister through the #ProtectProgress petition campaign. The goal is to reach 6,400 letters sent and all it takes is a minute of your time. The letter will send a signal that you care about the rights and safety of garment workers and would like the work of the Accord to continue.

Labour Behind The Label also needs your support. On January 30th 2019, during Bangladeshi Garment Workers Week, Labour Behind The Label is holding an urgent protest in London outside of the Bangladesh High Commission, in order to stand in solidarity of those protesting in Bangladesh itself, and to raise awareness that the Accord is still wanted and necessary to ensure a fairer fashion industry. I will be there and I hope you have the ability to be there, too.

In terms of consumption and shopping, boycotting brands who produce from Bangladesh will never work unless it’s in vast numbers; it will also never be the end goal. However, for sustainability reasons, you may already be cutting down how much you buy new and what brands you choose to support, so, I of course, urge you to continue doing so.

Slowing down is what will inevitably help steer garment factories in a safer direction because there will be less demand and therefore, less pressure, whether that be on the workers, the buildings that surround them, or the planet.


Were you aware of the Accord before? Do you have any more questions? Let me know in the comments!

 

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Is Not Shopping a Radical Act?

By November 30, 2018 Ethical

Perhaps the timing of this piece is a little late with Black Friday and Cyber Monday having just taken over both physical stores and almost every inch of the internet. However, a new sale and discount frenzy are never far around the corner in current times and it’s clear that shopping habits are unlikely to slow down anytime soon, so, I expect this will stay relevant for a while still.

Sustainability and Not Shopping Fast-Fashion - Digital Fashion Illustration Animation


An experimental piece I illustrated on the theme of fast-fashion and consumption


A lot of us have heard the statistics by now; we know – according to statistics from the Environmental Audit Committee’s sustainable fashion hearing – that in the UK, 23% of our clothing stay sat in our wardrobes unworn and that on average we’re buying 27 kilos of clothes a year, per person. We know that this is having a detrimental effect on our planet and that according to a report by the IPCC (that gave me a fright, to say the least), and try to put a stop on irreversible climate change.

We know all of this to a certain extent, yet the idea of not shopping for new clothes to a lot of us, seems like a radical act, whether this be for brand new clothes or second-hand pieces which have already experienced a life with a previous owner. We can’t deny that there is a certain thrill when it comes to bringing a new material item into our life.

In fact, it’s so clear to so many of us that there’s scientific evidence suggesting it can cause a dopamine rush. Of course, this isn’t just with our clothes but it has to be said that other than essential purchases such as food, often our clothes are what we update most regularly. They are a tool, after all, allowing us to change how we wish to be perceived by others, express our personal beliefs and stand out in a sea of other people trying to fit in.

It’s why I love clothes so much. I can experiment and wear different pieces to suit my mood. I can mature and start to find confidence in wearing red suits or I can mix it up and wear My Little Pony socks with jelly shoes (you can hear more about that on the Pre-Loved Podcast episode, I recently spoke on).

Styling and creating outfits is and should be fun, whether it’s based on ethics and sustainability or not, so, I’m not about to enforce the idea of a hippie future for us all. The concept of not shopping that I’m going to discuss, shouldn’t be a vision of a nudist camp where we all grow and pick our own vegetables and blend our own nut milk every morning (however dreamy that may sound to some of us, perhaps bar the nudity). The concept of not shopping that I do want to discuss is far more realistic and one of which I think an awful lot of us could adapt our lives to if we just stopped being afraid of change.

Sustainability and Not Shopping Fast-Fashion - Anna Firkins @wearwhatsthere digital illustration


Illustrations of Anna Firkins of @wearwhatsthere


This year, I made two changes. These two changes aren’t necessarily mind-blowing and they won’t change the world but they have made a big impact for myself and how I view my life. They are two very personal and actually rather incidental changes; in a way, I sort of fell into them.

Firstly, I decided to stop shaving my legs. I documented this decision a few months in after I could confidently say that it was a change I was embracing. It’s been almost a year now and I’ve done more than I ever could have imagined with a full display of leg hair. I went to my brother’s wedding without covering my legs; I went to the beach and skipped along the sand into the water; I went swimming at a public pool and held my head high. I did simple things with visible body hair on show that a year ago, would have felt extremely daunting to do (because I’d been trained to view it as disturbing and something to be ashamed of).

Secondly, I stopped eating meat. I’m not close to being a vegan yet and due to the fact that I eat fish every once in a while, I can’t technically call myself a fully committed vegetarian, however, my diet now fully consists of Quorn nuggets over chicken and a whole lot of bean curries to top up on a good amount of protein.

It hasn’t quite been a year yet but it has once again been a change that at first, seemed scary and not something I could see myself going all the way with. When I first started to cut out meat, I ate a sandwich with ham in it because I couldn’t be bothered to find an alternative – and now, I wouldn’t even question it; I would walk that bit further to find a vegetarian option from a different shop down the road.

The reason for referencing these personal changes is because I often see many people scared off by the idea of changing what they’re used to. Change in itself is always rather terrifying (the idea of cutting my hair short sounds like a bit of a nightmare) but surely change should always be easier to take head-on when we know the consequences of not changing and not evolving?

Sustainability and Not Shopping Fast-Fashion - Anna Firkins @wearwhatsthere digital illustration

I adapted my shopping habits to become more sustainable because I’d started to educate myself on how my wardrobe was in part, contributing to the demise of our world. I choose the word “world” carefully because I was recently reminded of the fact that the planet itself will still very much be here, even if we can’t inhabit it ourselves.

If we know the statistics and we know that changing our ways could be beneficial, why does, for example, not shopping, seem so extreme? In theory, it’s not that much of a challenge. You see something you like in a shop window or on a clickable Instagram post and you just don’t buy it. Maybe one day, a few months down the line, you go back and buy it or you find a second-hand version but in the moment, when it’s just a spontaneous splurge, you resist.

In practice? You see something you like in a shop window or on a clickable Instagram post, you consider how you’re feeling that day and whether you deserve to just “treat yo’self” and then you step inside the shop door or click on the buy it now button; you try it on (or double-check the size guide), look at the price tag and do a little happy dance at how cheap it is, before adding it your basket and walking away smiling.

You smile for three days because that’s how long the dopamine rush of a new purchase lasts.

Sustainability and Not Shopping Fast-Fashion - Anna Firkins @wearwhatsthere digital illustration

I would expect that a lot of us have had experience with both the theory and the practice. It’s far easier to resist buying something new when you have strict limiting factors already set in place. For example, a lot of us have tight purse strings that can’t be stretched as much as we’d like them to. But there are also times when they stretch a bit further and one purchase here and there won’t matter, so long as we don’t calculate what it’s all adding up to in the end.

And that’s just one side to it; the self-care and “treat yo’ self” culture, that 78% of you on Twitter said you find difficult to balance with a conscious consumer mindset.

I recently had an in-real-life conversation with the amazing Anna Firkins from @wearwhatsthere on Instagram (I’m specifying the fact it was an in-person conversation because did it really happen if I don’t?), who has been committed to not shopping for clothes for almost a year now. Her Instagram account is such a simple platform but it proves something really wonderful that there’s not nearly enough of, whether it be online or offline – we don’t need new clothes and we definitely don’t need them to look stylish or to express ourselves. If we choose wisely at the beginning, which Anna so clearly did (I’m a big fan of her khaki dungarees, as you can see from my illustrations), then it’s not necessary to rely on an influx of newness every few seasons, months, weeks or even days.

I recall once reading a blog post written by somebody who stated that they could never slow down their shopping habits or switch to more sustainable brands because they just loved shopping too much. The idea of being so attached to an activity that they admitted to knowing had cost to the environment, saddened me but I’ve seen this been said multiple times over since then, especially as more people have started to approach these sorts of topics and issues.

Sustainability and Not Shopping Fast-Fashion - Anna Firkins @wearwhatsthere digital illustration

So, I asked Anna whether she’d had anybody respond to her not shopping challenge by saying, “I could never do it!”. Of course, the answer was yes but Anna could understand why it isn’t always easy.

For example, she hasn’t stopped shopping for her children because they’re growing and changing, and unsurprisingly, limiting new clothes for them isn’t exactly simple, or in fact, possible. We all have such different experiences and situations that we are faced with, which means it isn’t always as black and white as saying no or emptying your shopping basket. As Anna reminded me, sometimes we need a quick solution and that means having to put yourself first before the world or the people providing for us (in this case, garment workers).

Just like I can’t call myself a fully committed vegetarian, I also can’t say that I’m fully committed to not shopping, which means I can’t say it’s for everyone. It’s not a ‘challenge’ or a mission of mine simply because my purchases are few and far between and are almost always guilt-free (for example, unless it’s something I’ve been sent as a gifted item, I mainly only ever shop second-hand).

It’s to my belief that not shopping means doing some self-reflection and deep analysing within ourselves. It’s not about depriving yourself of nice things or material possessions that make us who we are but it’s about understanding why we choose to obtain these things in the first place. It’s similar to how I approached my personal decisions around body hair. I asked myself why I was doing it and I came up short. Could I love myself exactly how I am? Can we curate who we are and how we want to be perceived out of what we already have around us?

Do we need to be sold new collections every few months, picking out what strikes a chord with us? Or can we slow down? Can we find a middle ground where we’re not shopping but we’re in fact, investing?

Due to the amount of clothes I have in my wardrobe, adding anything new will never be a direct necessity but they will be a necessity for my personal growth and style evolution, whether I be strongly invested in fashion or not – and the fashion industry (and others) thrives on this little flaw within the connection between how we dress ourselves and our individuality.

Not shopping, or at least reducing the power that we give over to those, unfortunately, abusing the planet and our hunger for more isn’t radical. Taking the time to understand your choices, recognise what is really you and building from there, can be.


What do you think about not shopping? Is it radical? Do you think you could do it? Let me know in the comments!


Whilst I have you, it would be an honour if you could head on over to the UK Blog Awards and hit the heart ❤️ button on Tolly Dolly Posh Fashion in the Green & Eco category. I’d love to have my blog recognised with an award after six years of hard work. Thank you in advance!

 

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Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Inquiry | Interview with Mary Creagh MP

By November 16, 2018 Ethical

I recently had the chance to attend what is called an ‘evidence hearing’ at the Victoria & Albert Museum in South Kensington, London, as part of the UK Parliament’s Environmental Audit Committee‘s inquiry into sustainable fashion. This is actually an incredibly exciting time, as the inquiry may go onto help aid the Government to ensure we are starting to create a newer, more environmentally conscious fashion industry.

Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Inquiry - Mary Creagh MP Interview


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  LOCATION:
Victoria & Albert Museum
London


 (Mary): The Environmental Audit Committee is conducting an inquiry into fast-fashion. We want to look at the global carbon footprint of the fashion industry and to see how Government and consumers and the industry itself can reduce the huge amount of environmental resources that the fashion industry consumes every year.

(Tolly to Mary): For those who don't know, what is the inquiry about?

I had the opportunity to sit down with Mary Creagh, an MP (Member of Parliament) and the Chair of the Environmental Audit Committee, which is the group responsible for considering how the Government is doing in terms of environmental protection and sustainable development in the UK. The committee was behind securing the recent ban on microbeads in cosmetics products and hopefully, with the sustainable fashion inquiry, they will go on to do much more.

I know that a lot of people will be new to the concept of a parliamentary inquiry – trust me, I am too! – so, I want to discuss what it all means, as well as some takeaways from the evidence session itself. Some of those giving evidence at the hearing included Eco-Age founder, Livia Firth; journalist and writer, Lucy Siegle; the Sustainability & Innovation Director of Stella McCartney, Claire Bergkamp, and the Director and Professor of Fashion Design for Sustainability, Dilys Wiliams.


(Mary): The government sets the rules in which all companies operate. So, at the moment we have rules that say, you’ve got to check your supply chain to check that you’re not employing slaves, for example. So, there might be some recommendations that we want to make to Government about what companies should do.

We’ve heard today from bloggers and upcyclers, about how we can all make our clothes last for longer, and how we can incentivise companies to look at new business models. Rental models, for example. The most sustainable garment is the garment you already own. So basically, buying less, buying better and wearing clothes for longer.

Compared to independent initiatives surrounding these issues, what can the Government do?

Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Inquiry - Mary Creagh MP Interview

There were two clear take-aways for me, not only from the evidence session that I attended but also from the initial session which I watched on live stream (both of which you can watch here). Firstly, it’s that, as Dilys Williams so rightly said, the system and the model of fast-fashion are broken. There is no way in which we can continue producing and consuming at the same rate that we are, in a sustainable manner – this goes for the UK and elsewhere.

The Ellen McArthur foundation states that textile production uses around 93 million cubic metres of water and an estimated 1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions, per year, which is more than flights and maritime shipping combined. And in the UK specifically, the consumption of clothing itself is rapidly rising, alongside disposal rates, with 350,000 tonnes of clothes being discarded to landfill, according to WRAP.

In terms of statistics, these are all numbers that a lot of us have already considered or educated ourselves on but there’s more to it than that. In the first evidence hearing, a common theme regarding the initial design process of our clothing arose and it was brought up again at the V&A with fashion designer, Phoebe English, speaking on the panel. She reminded us of the large amounts of waste created before a garment even gets on the shop floor. After describing the pattern cutting process, Phoebe said, “There is waste from every single garment on the high street. Where is that waste going?”.

Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Inquiry - Mary Creagh MP Interview

There are many different elements to the conversation and that’s the second takeaway that became very apparent; what recommendations does a committee put forward to a Government, when there are so many angles and specific issues to focus on? There is no one set solution to creating a sustainable fashion industry. Even when we say the system is broken and creating a new one seems like the only answer, a new system will always come with its challenges, too.

For example, a circular fashion industry could work in theory but only if you’re also looking at circularity in a social sense, as Dilys Williams suggested. A circular economy is a regenerative system which thrives on reuse, remanufacturing, repairing and recycling but we can’t transform the fashion industry into a closed-loop system unless the consumer mindset shifts dramatically, and that is a great feat we face.


(Mary): We need to reconnect people with their clothing. We’re sitting in the Fashioned from Nature exhibition at the Victoria & Albert museum which reminds us that everything that we make comes from the earth, whether it’s polyester which is a by-product of the oil and gas industry; silk, feathers, fur, leather, cotton, wool – are all made in nature. Reconnecting people with their clothes, reskilling people to look after their clothes, look after them better, wear them for longer, repair them when they get holes in them – I think these are all techniques that we are keen to look at as a committee.

But also, we’re keen to look at the whole fashion industry and look at how the £32 billion industry which has one of its global headquarters in London, can play its part in reducing its environmental footprint and what Government needs to do, to make that happen.

How do we balance changing a broken system with the economy?

Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Inquiry - Mary Creagh MP Interview

One of the suggestions relating to the idea of circularity, once again came from Professor Dilys Williams – perhaps a recommendation to the Government could come in the form of reduced VAT on repair services, which as Graeme Raeburn (one half of the Christopher Raeburn duo) pointed out is something that has already been executed in Sweden.

Although we may not be at a point in time where the general public has learned how to darn socks and tailor trousers, if we allow services for these repairs to become more accessible, it could cause a shift in how we appreciate clothing and in turn, create an environmental shift, too.

Along with circularity, the Scottish Government has already started in this direction with the ‘Make Things Last‘ strategy which has trialled large-scale reuse and repair hubs.


(Mary): I don’t think the UK is really far behind. We have modern slavery laws, I think we are good at recycling our clothes to charity shops; what is coming out is that clearly when we’re sending those clothes to the recycling shops, they may not be getting sold. We’re not very good at collecting clothes in household waste. We’ve got 350,000 tonnes a year that’s going to landfill and another 50 or 60,000 being burned.

So, we are bad in terms of buying a lot more clothes than the rest of Europe. We’re buying 27 kilos of clothes a year. We are good at then recycling it but we’re not clear with what happens with the clothes at the end of their life. The fact that 23% of what we buy just ends up sat in our wardrobe, a lot of it because it no longer fits us, is one of the interesting statistics from today’s session.

Is the UK far behind in terms of making progress with these sustainable issues?

Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Inquiry - Mary Creagh MP Interview


Myself and Mary Creagh, MP at the Victoria & Albert Museum, Fashioned from Nature exhibition


The complexity of the issues at hand go as far as advertising and how fast-fashion actually affects us all psychologically. If fast-fashion and unsustainably produced textiles are as destructive to ourselves and the environment as products that we see on the shelves of supermarkets, with labels to warn us of toxic ingredients that could potentially cause us bodily harm, is it time that legislation is put in place in order to make consumers more aware of what they’re really buying into? Is it time that we are shown the true cost of a £5 t-shirt before we reach the checkout, bringing back what Lucy Siegle called a ‘pause for thought before buying‘ that’s been stripped away with such fast consumption habits?


(Mary): I think one of the most surprising things is about the psychological impact of fashion and how the endorphin rush you get after buying something new, wears off after about three days. That’s something very interesting and relates to my own experiences. So, how fast-fashion is potentially fuelling unhappiness in young people, who are buying more, spending just as much as they did in the past but wearing for much less time. I think this constant cycle of consume, spend, throw is not a cycle that makes people happy.

What's been one of the most surprising things to come out of the inquiry, so far?

As I now personally have a large understanding of many of the issues raised at the evidence hearing, it’s been clear to me that the system is broken for quite some time now, but it’s even clearer that we are in dire need of answering a pivotal question, which was once again raised by Professor Dilys Williams…

Do we want to keep the current industry or do we want to live within planetary boundaries? 


If you want to learn more about the Environmental Audit Committee and the ‘Sustainability of the fashion industry inquiry‘, take a look at the Parliament website. Follow the committee on Twitter @CommonsEAC and voice your thoughts with #EACFixingFashion.

 

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What Do We Do Now It Feels like the World Is Ending?

By October 28, 2018 General

I wrote this blog post over a couple of weeks, letting some feelings sink in. Take this as a brain-dump (and a question) as sorts, as I try to re-evaluate my relationship with sustainability and activism…

My Thoughts in a Post-IPCC Report World - Illustrated Newspaper

Part of the reason my blog isn’t as active as it used to be is that over time, I’ve come to appreciate more considered, thought-out writing that is as helpful and as insightful as it can be for my readers.

However, that sort of content can take time and with the recent report from the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) stating that by 2040 we could see major irreparable effects of global warming, it suddenly feels as if we don’t have that time and that the time we do have, shouldn’t be spent writing a blog or hosting an Instagram profile that’s main purpose is to try and get people to shop differently.

If 100 companies have been named as the source of more than 70% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions by the Carbon Disclosure Project – most of which are companies leading the oil and coal industries -, then surely it’s time to focus our efforts on bringing them down than pointing a finger at people who aren’t turning down single-use straws or buying a new pair of pyjamas from Primark?

Before you attempt to predict where this piece is going, I’ll do the work for you by saying that I won’t be finishing it off by promoting the idea of small steps saving the world. I would hope to never enforce that idea, only the thought that of course, small steps are better than nothing and are often a great way to instil a peace of mind for our own consciences (as well as being a tool to continue these sorts of climate-related conversations, everyday).

In fact, it’s quite likely that the majority of this post will be uninspiring and demotivating. You may even come away from this blog post with dread.

My Thoughts in a Post-IPCC Report World - Illustrated Newspaper

For me, even making sure this piece is factually correct by researching different articles and reports, has left me feeling hopeless and honestly, rather terrified for our future. I feel as if I’m in a state of panic. Seeing a headline which talks about a possible outcome for babies born today, leaves a lump in my throat.

My youngest nephew has just turned two-years-old and he’ll only be entering his mid-twenties by the time the damage has – or could have – become unstoppable and the idea of that, has me contemplating my own future life choices and whether a family (one of blood and the same genetics) will be one of them.

The IPCC report states that the world’s carbon pollution would have to be cut dramatically to ensure that we are down to 0% carbon emissions by 2050. At the current rate and with no dramatic changes in place, whether it be politically or industry-wide, the world as we know it is heading for a 3-centigrade rise in warming and I don’t believe anyone truly knows what that would look like.

The dramatic changes which could be made to avoid this involve things such as increasing carbon tax (fellow eco-activist Alden Wicker touched on this here, discussing how it would hike up prices of services such as air travel yet could also be rewarding, as the tax contribution could be reinvested annually), as well as quite frankly, pulling the plugs on the worst offenders, even if it makes life a lot more inconvenient.

All of this has left me at a bit of a crossroads. How do I, as somebody who has a platform and has recently been given the ‘environmental activist’ label, move forwards? And in which direction should that be? As I said, it’s got me questioning whether I am using my time or my voice as wisely as I should be.

That’s not to say I’m going to let this all stop me; as Mary Robinson (former President of Ireland) so rightly said, “Feeling ‘this is too big for me’, is no use to anybody”. Quite a few of you wanted to remind me of that too, when I jumped to Instagram Stories stating I was having a crisis.

Thankfully since then, I’ve also seen a notable rise in people discussing topics such as fast-fashion and sustainability, even if they never have before. I think we have Stacey Dooley’s BBC documentary “Fashion’s Dirty Secrets” to thank for this.

With more people starting to add to the conversation at the same time as more frightening statistics, it’s important that we don’t let go of any kind of motivation or momentum that is spurring us on to make positive change because it shows that we care and that we don’t want to just sit back and accept the doom and gloom for normality.

My Thoughts in a Post-IPCC Report World - Illustrated Newspaper

The voice in the back of my head – or your head – telling me that I’m not doing enough, shouldn’t be one to guilt me or turn me into a fearful wreck; it should be the one I hold onto tightly and when I’m ready, use to the best of my abilities to prove that I can do enough and more.

The biggest question mark and challenge I currently face though, is what should I use it for? I then realised, often when discussing these issues, the term ‘we’ is used. We could this. We could that. Why aren’t we changing our actions? So, why aren’t I thinking of this as a chance to ask and include others? What can we do? How can we use our voices and progress forwards, even in a pit of despair and defeat?

So, yes, I’m going to ask you. Take it as a bit of research. I want to know how you think we – yes, you and me, the reader of this blog – can start to do more. I don’t mean in the sense of cutting down on plastic or going out to vote. Both of those options have their own levels of importance and there are many people already pushing these as ways to go (including myself).

What I mean is – how can we pull together and do something as a team (yes, we’re a team now) that can create some sort of positive change? How we can drag ourselves out of the comforts of clicktivism and into the scary waters of real-life action?

My Thoughts in a Post-IPCC Report World - Illustrated Newspaper

I’ve thrown this idea out into the world a couple of times recently, so, I’ll throw it around here publicly. Something I’d like to achieve in the future (possibly the very near future) is a campaign of sorts. I don’t know how I’ll do it but I know I’d love for you to all be involved somehow and perhaps this can be the beginning of working out what we can do to make it happen.

I’m leaving this blog post as a place to mull over ideas. What issues – within the realm of ethical and sustainable fashion – are the ones you believe we could really help to solve? The time we do have, I’d like to us to use wisely. Have a think, let me know and hopefully, we can all come out of this collective, climate change fear-induced slump together!

Whether you leave a comment on here or Instagram, send me a tweet or go one step further to express your thoughts via email (my inbox is always open!), I look forward to hearing from you.


In the meantime, not too long ago I discussed how to avoid becoming overwhelmed by sustainable issues, which might come in helpful if you’re experiencing similar feelings. I also recently posted on Instagram, a tiny list of things that are keeping me going.

 

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5 Facts & Figures You Need to Know | Fashion Revolution Week

By April 16, 2018 Ethical

Fashion Revolution Week is in its 5th year, raising awareness for issues within the fashion industry and creating change. The campaign falls on the week of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse which occurred in 2013 causing over 1,000 easily preventable deaths. Learn more about how to take part, here.


5 Facts About Fast-Fashion - Fashion Revolution Week

Fashion Revolution Week kicks off in a weeks time so as a quick reminder as to what the week is all about and ways that you can get involved, I thought I would compile a list of facts and figures that will refresh your ethical fashion knowledge! Or, not so ethical fashion knowledge, as you’ll soon see…


1. Only 20% of global textiles are recycled…

The other 80% of are either incinerated (releasing harmful chemicals into the atmosphere) or sent to landfill, to break down and release those same harmful chemicals and toxins, into the earth. That’s an extraordinary amount of harmful waste. (via Worn Again)

Clothing waste is, of course, a huge part of that. Out of collected clothing (from recycling banks, or the like), the majority is either resold (click here for why that might not be as good as it sounds) or it’s downcycled to create products like rags or stuffing for furniture. This continues the lifecycle of fabrics but it still creates yet another inevitably disposable item which will most likely end up once again, in a landfill.

2. Most of us only regularly wear 40% of our clothes…

According to Oxfam, not only do we leave 60% of our clothes hanging in our wardrobe, we also only wear an average of 16 items once. Of course, this isn’t the most daunting statistic, however, it does shine a light on our consumption habits.

On a similar note, I wrote a piece on whether having fewer clothes makes your wardrobe more sustainable, and why a sustainable wardrobe has a lot more to do with how you dispose and care for your clothes than you think.

3. Dyeing textiles is the cause of 20% of water pollution…

Changing Market’s Dirty Fashion report revealed this statistic, and it is known that denim production is one of the worst offenders. I would highly recommend watching the documentary, River Blue, for more on this subject, including some positive innovations which are being put in place to reduce the fashion industry’s impact on the world’s water systems.

4. £1.37 is the price of a living wage…

A £25.32 priced t-shirt would increase to just £26.69 if the garment workers producing it were to be paid a living wage. This is a miniscule increase, one of which the average consumer wouldn’t bat an eyelid to.

This fact and figure was taken from Fashion Revolution’s first fanzine, however, if you want a more in-depth look into garment worker wages, the best place to look is their Garment Worker Diaries report, which breaks down wages and living conditions across eastern Asia.

5. Your gym gear could take 200 years to decompose…

Another Fashion Revolution fanzine fact – A Lycra two-piece designed for sportswear could take anywhere from 20 to 200 years to decompose and break down in a landfill, compared to natural fabrics which can take only weeks.

Fabrics are important to consider whenever you’re shopping, whether it’s second-hand or new. Although it is understandable why people often opt for synthetics for durability purposes, natural fabrics will generally always be the better option whether it’s for the planet or for your body.


Did you learn something new? What’s a fact I might not know? Let me know in the comments!

Don’t forget that you can share your support for Fashion Revolution by using my collection of GIF stickers on Instagram Story! Want to know how to use them? Click here!

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Is Ethical Fashion Expensive? | A Discussion

By November 8, 2017 Ethical

For the past week or so I’ve been trying my hardest to put this piece together and have it make actual, logical sense. I wanted to start straight off the bat by saying that ethical fashion isn’t expensive and explain from that point onwards. However, upon writing and re-writing (three times!) and discussing it with others, I’ve come to the conclusion that this topic just isn’t that simple, even if I can see it that way myself.

Why Is Ethical Fashion Expensive

At first, I believed that my own experience of consuming ethical and sustainable fashion was a prime example of debunking the myth of a fair wardrobe being completely inaccessible but even I have to admit that I have certain privileges which make it a whole easier to fathom. I’m all about honesty around here; there’s no such thing as being overly transparent.

If I were to say that I don’t add new items to my wardrobe regularly, that wouldn’t be the whole truth. From time to time, I do fill up the gaps in my wardrobe but often I don’t have to pay the expense because I write this blog and am trusted to receive samples and gifted items in order to promote brands which are doing good work.

This isn’t often, which makes the ‘regularly’ part of the statement correct but it still happens; I can’t deny that and nor would I want to – I love fashion. I would expect you do too if you’re reading this.

If I were to also say that the prices of the brands I promote are realistic for people my age or even just the average person who might come across my blog, that wouldn’t be the whole truth either because without the privileges I receive from writing and working my socks off around here, I can hands down say I wouldn’t be wearing a People Tree jumpsuit or a recycled denim choker that costs almost £30 (although, that People Tree jumpsuit has definitely made me realise how worthy their clothes are of an investment).

Why Is Ethical Fashion Expensive

It goes back to the good work they’re doing – I want to show that it’s being done instead of clinging on to the brand names I no longer appreciate. (Bear in mind, I recently turned down an ethical directory feature request because I deemed the brand to be too expensive for my readers. I’m happy with the balance I’ve found.)

If I were to say that second-hand shopping is the best way around any price-based or moral dilemma, that once again wouldn’t be the whole truth because I’m a slim 17-year-old and I’m fortunate most charity shops are filled with viable options for me.

I can’t confirm nor deny whether people of different sizes do genuinely struggle when on the hunt in these scenarios (I often find many more larger sizes, especially in UK stores) but I’m happy to admit I’ve probably been lucky on more than one occasion.

I’m excluding looking for workwear, children’s wear or necessary purchases within this and the rest of my discussion – I’m not about to start saying we should be buying bras and underwear from our local Oxfam (although, good on you if you do) or that a young family of four should all of a sudden stop buying new clothes for their fast-growing kids (my nephews wear mostly second-hand clothes but there’s no way they could go without new shoes or re-purchases here and there).

Why Is Ethical Fashion Expensive

So, what can I say that for the most part, strips away privilege, anything to do about the way we look at ethical options as an ‘investment’ and the idea of conscious consumerism and changing our shopping habits?

Well, it goes back to what a lot of my past blog posts used to revolve around – the facts and figures that show what we’re paying, isn’t what we should be paying if we want to acknowledge that the industry of fashion and the clothes we wear need to change.

The concept of fast-fashion (aka. the opposite of ethical, sustainable or slow fashion) originated in the 90s when the industry in the west discovered the opportunity to manufacturer clothing at a cheaper price and at a faster rate, allowing customers the chance to update and add to their wardrobe with fresh and new styles whilst saving money at the same time, and in-turn, producing more profit (it makes business sense, right?).

Why Is Ethical Fashion Expensive

The majority of fashion manufacturing moved overseas, allowing brands to find cheap labour in developing countries. Quite simply, the demand grew, being supported by catwalks, the advertising industry and the new consumer expectation that we could have it all, whenever we wanted and for an amount, our purses would be happy with. This lead to more and more pressure being put upon the factories by the brands we grew to know and love. It’s why we saw the Rana Plaza disaster and the Tazreen factory fire.

Factories in developing countries aren’t built for the consumption of fast-fashion and nor is the supply chain. The cost of production means underpaid workers, poor working conditions, human rights violations and even child or forced labour that nobody would allow elsewhere.

Why Is Ethical Fashion Expensive

All of these are consequences of the cheap, low prices that can be found on high-streets or online, and that’s not even including the affects this type of production puts on the planet and earth itself. It’s unsustainable and it’s unethical and there’s a reason why it’s cheap and why I don’t use the term very fondly around here.

Even if we’re not used to it and even if it will take years to change – we should be paying more which means ethical fashion, quite frankly, isn’t expensive in theory. It’s expensive in terms of price tag comparison (an ethical t-shirt could cost you £20-30 versus a fast-fashion alternative at £10) but the reason behind it is just and fair. It ensures that workers are paid fairly and that they work in safe environments, as well as often ensuring the use of sustainable and organic materials.

“But in the meantime, Tolly, how can I afford to buy new clothes at the same time as caring about where they come from? It seems impossible.”

Why Is Ethical Fashion Expensive

This is where my favourite friend, Mindset, comes into play. Over-consumption goes hand-in-hand with the actual manufacturing of clothes and it isn’t helped by how we now see it being portrayed in front of our very own eyes. I know one YouTuber who has done eight different ‘haul’ videos in the past month.

I’m by no means accusing any of you of over-consuming but I think a lot of us can almost experience a sense of ‘FOMO’ (fear of missing out) by not owning a beret or a pair of heeled boots right now. I know I have!

We live in a society that thrives off of a culture of consuming the latest new “thing” (due to how #capitalism and the world of advertising works, as already mentioned) which is especially the case with fashion, with trends dipping in and out that not only affect our clothes but go on to change everything else around us.

Why Is Ethical Fashion Expensive

The more we understand that this behaviour and way of consuming isn’t necessary, the less money we’ll end up spending in shorter periods of time, allowing more room for those so-say more pricey purchases which will end up being more of an investment anyway. Cost-effectiveness is sustainable and beneficial especially if you’re on a tighter budget (again – parents or anyone with strict workwear policies, I’m not pointing at you).

For example, if you know a pair of unethically produced shoes which are currently in the fashionable charts, won’t last you as long as a more investable and ethically produced pair would; think about which is more worthwhile, not only for your wallet that may have to repurchase once the cheaper option has worn down but also for the planet and the people who are making them. For me, I don’t even question it anymore.

And if you can and you’re willing to try? Look in Oxfam or Goodwill or on Depop or eBay. Even if it takes you three times as long as looking on ASOS or scrolling through what Topshop has to offer – I promise you it will feel so much more satisfying when you’ve prolonged a perfectly wearable item’s lifespan. I recently welcomed in an old pair of cherry red Dr Martens and a suede coat most definitely not in my size but there’s nothing a new pair of innersoles and wearing something oversized can’t do!


As this title suggests, I want this to be a discussion so go forth and leave your thoughts in the comments!

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What Do Logos and Labels Say About You?

By August 20, 2017 Ethical

A seed of a thought was planted in my mind a while ago when I read To Die For by Lucy Siegle (click the link for my review). One part of wearing ethical and sustainable clothes, is sending out a message about what you stand for, and Lucy touches on this in her book. But mixing this idea with logos makes it all the more important to pay attention to. Why? Let’s discuss…

ethical fashion advice - should we wear fast-fashion logos?

I might seem a little drastic to jump to the idea of thinking of our subconscious but with the idea of sustainability slowly trickling down to the everyday shopper (even if it’s through the rather controversial and possibly green-washed campaigns by the likes of H&M), what messages people are fed, even when they’re not purposefully thinking about it, all play a role in what happens next.

The idea in Lucy’s book that really stood out to me, was the idea of wearing faux-fur. Any kind of vegan material is suspicious to me (can we really say plastic alternatives to leathers are sustainable? I think not) but there are obviously many reasons why people avoid buying real fur.

The question was – by wearing any kind of fur, fake or vintage, aren’t we still showing the world that we appreciate and see fur as something wearable? That got the ball rolling for me, and it’s brought me back around to logos and labels, as the title of this post suggests.

ethical fashion advice - should we wear fast-fashion logos?

If we’re wearing a visible logo, how does this affect how people view our ethical views? Again, admittedly that sounds drastic to think about but as somebody who owns a pair of Nike trainers, yet stands by going against sweatshops, what does that say about me, when someone looks at my feet?

You might be thinking – does anybody really pay that much attention? Probably not. In fact, people are more likely to pay more attention to what you’re wearing on Instagram to what you’re wearing in real life (the same question still applies though), so perhaps the idea is more of a moral one.

Is it right to wear a Prada logo even when the shirt was bought second-hand? That’s my most recent query, after picking one up from a charity shop. Luxury doesn’t automatically mean ethical, after all, and nobody in passing will necessarily know I re-used an item which would have otherwise had been wasted.

Taking the question about faux-fur and adapting it a little; by wearing a label attached to an unethical brand, new or vintage, aren’t we still showing the world that we in some way appreciate and see fast-fashion as something to be worn and supported?

Visibility to me, is what I think is important. Bold, glaring logos which are immediately recognisable will say something to people in passing (or on social media), no matter how subconscious the connection is.

This doesn’t mean to say I think we should all be throwing out anything we own which is branded (never throw out clothes just because what you own isn’t ethical – keep them for longer), but it is to say I think we should shop more consciously with what message we’re putting out there in mind, especially when the message is easy to recognise and judge. Yeah, I’m saying – avoid that Gucci style Topshop-logo splashed t-shirt that’s apparently currently on sale (or you know, Topshop in general.)

“What about non-visible logos?” I hear you cry – well, as I just said, do not fear if your wardrobe is packed with them already (and by that I mean, Primark or other fast-fashion labels, like I myself still own), as it’s better to prolong their life in your wardrobe than rid of them completely. Also, as I’ve been asked this in the past and also rather recently, yes, it’s okay to shop second-hand even if what you’re buying was originally made or sourced unethically. Your money isn’t going directly into the hands of the industry, so you’re safe to shop fast-fashion in the second-hand world.

Have you ever thought about what logos you’re wearing say about you? Let me know in the comments!

ethical fashion blog - lost shapes x tolly dolly posh


SPEAKING OF LOGOS…

…you’ll soon be able to wear mine on the back of your t-shirt! And yes, it will be ethical. I’ve finally announced my upcoming collection with Lost Shapes which will be available to buy on September 7th, 2017. YAY!


Do you feel inspired? If so, perhaps you might be interested in nominating Tolly Dolly Posh for an Observer Ethical Award. If you believe my commitment to ethical fashion is award-winning, click this link and leave my name, link and a few words in the Young Green Leaders category. 

 

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How We Can Make Everyone Understand Fast-Fashion

By June 29, 2017 Ethical

I’ve had this thought in my mind for a while now but I’ve never really known how to make the little seed in my mind into something helpful and useful for the rest of you but after a recent conversation with the wonderful and talented Lauren McCrostie, I finally realised my thought’s potential and it all starts with four very simple words – we all wear clothes.

Ethical Fashion Advice - How to Understand Fast-Fashion


FEATURED: Floral Trousers (ASOS Africa) // All others (Second-hand/Vintage) 


The reason for highlighting this simple phrase and statement is because I believe it is one idea that we can all understand and learn from especially when it comes to ethical education and conscious consumerism. There are a lot of terminologies thrown around when it comes to the issue of fast-fashion and ethics, so much so that the ethical platform, Project JUST, has a full page dedicated to slang terms you might not know the definition of.

In fact, it starts just there, with the phrase ‘fast-fashion’. It’s the most commonly used term when it comes to trying to explain why the shops we find on the high-street aren’t all as pretty as they seem and why the earth is being damaged by an industry which is supposed to be full of glamour and beauty. Although the term is relatively easy to understand – it’s the system in which provides fast and cheap fashion, producing large amounts of stock and creating large amounts of profit – if you were to use the phrase in everyday conversation, understandably, not everyone will understand you straight off the bat.

As someone who is expanding their knowledge of ethics and sustainability daily, I can admit that life was a lot easier to take for granted before it all started to click for me. Although I was aware of certain issues like waste and global warming, I now take it into consideration in my daily life, even if it’s in a context which isn’t remotely related to fashion or my clothes. It’s just within me now, to try and do better.

Ethical Fashion Advice - How to Understand Fast-Fashion

But with these phrases and words and all of the nitty gritty information, can we get just about anybody to understand the negative impacts of what we wear, by only focusing on ‘fast-fashion’ and ‘the industry’? And no, I’m not going back on what I said in my piece about second-hand shopping – the industry is important to understand but perhaps it’s not vital when trying to get people to start questioning their choices.

A great way to explain this more simply is looking at our food. Just like the statement ‘we all wear clothes’, the majority of us fortunate to be even having this discussion, are all able to say ‘we all eat food’. The food industry is often used as a way to explain what we mean by ‘transparency’, as, in recent years, it has become a lot more open to sharing where produce comes from, leading consumers to become more aware of what they’re actually consuming. It’s all essential to our lives and we all care in some respect or another because every day we aim to eat three healthy meals.

So, why don’t we all care about where our clothes come from if we’re putting them on our bodies just as frequently? Even beauty and make-up can inspire us – we care about what we put on our skin with what chemicals are being used or whether an animal has been used to test a product prior to being sold.

Ethical Fashion Advice - How to Understand Fast-Fashion

This is a reason why Fashion Revolution’s #WhoMadeMyClothes campaign should be so easy to get people behind. The term ‘clothes’ strips things down to the basics of what we all wear. Asking where our clothes come from is a lot easier to do than asking why H&M is producing 52 micro-collections a year; that’s fashion (fast-fashion, specfically). If we start to separate the two terms, clothes and fashion into two separate entities, then we’re more likely to get just about anybody on board in some shape or form.

Returning to food, there are a lot of questions we can adapt to our clothes. Questions like – What are you eating? How do you store your food? What do you do with old food? – can all be changed to revolve around clothing and get people thinking in that same way about something which is essentially, affecting us all in the same way. As a whole, we try to eat healthy food and we store it in the fridge or in a cool dry place. We recycle food and put scraps on the compost. If the fashion industry is supposedly the 2nd most polluting industry on the planet, why are we not all taking on this same mindset? It’s seems simple, really.

Ethical Fashion Advice - How to Understand Fast-Fashion

For those of you who are already starting to become more conscious consumers or are wondering how to go about spreading the message, here are some questions which can get people thinking in very simple terms:


~ QUESTIONS ~

What are you wearing?
What do you wear on a day-to-day basis?
Where did you buy them?
What do the labels say? Do you know what they mean?

Where were your clothes made?
➯ Would you like to know where?
Do you know who made them?
How do you look after your clothes?
What do you do with old clothes?


Don’t stop there though, if you’re interested in learning even more or want to start asking some more in-depth questions, then make sure to take a look at my educational resources from the past year. They should be helpful for you, your friends and family and anyone else you want to pass on knowledge too. Oh and don’t forget, ethical fashion shouldn’t make you feel bad, either.

How do you think we can get people on board with ethical fashion? Let me know in the comments!

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