fashion revolution

Your mind can be overflowing with questions when you first enter the world of ethics and sustainability; in fact, it will probably stay that way for the foreseeable future and for a good reason. Having issues close to your heart and being sparked by curiosity is what helps move us forward, so, to help aid this – I’m answering some of your questions in an easy Q&A format…

WHAT I WORE: Denim Jacket (G-STAR RAW)* // White Rollneck Sweater (Charity shop) // Pink Tartan Kilt (Charity shop) // White Sneakers (YATAY)*

How do you spot greenwashing?

If you’re unsure what the term ‘greenwashing’ means, it’s essentially when sustainable or environmental concerns get glossed over by small (or even false) attempts at being sustainably conscious, intentionally or not.

If you take a look through my archives, I’ve answered this question previously and explained in more detail about what greenwashing really is. Some of my tips included looking at whether a brand is shouting about ethics or not; looking at what information is easily accessible and finding out what progress a brand is making.

For example, if a fashion brand launches a new ‘sustainable collection’, try and find out exactly what sustainable means and whether sustainable principles go into every detail. If that ‘sustainable collection’ is based on using recycled materials, that’s a great step in the right direction, however – if the garment workers who manufacture that collection are still being underpaid, you do have to ask where the brand’s priorities really lay.

I personally always pay attention to what the brand is shouting about or what its overall brand ethos is; trust your gut and work from there. Obviously, it is important to appreciate minor steps a brand makes in becoming more sustainable but in a time where we have an 11-year countdown clock until irreversible effects of climate change could occur, I think we need much bigger commitments and fast.

Do you have any advice on encouraging other people to buy less fast-fashion without seeming rude or demanding?

I’m sure many people can relate to this frustration. Trust me, I’ve been there having conversations over the dinner table which have ended up heated and alive with passion. It’s not fun to have the principles close to your heart, seemingly attacked, or to have people become defensive and offended because they think you’re implying that they, a single individual, are the reason behind bad working conditions in clothing factories and the toxic dyes and chemicals being poured into rivers.

I believe consistency and subtlety are key. Be consistent by making it obvious it’s something you care about but be subtle in how you approach it – it could be by explaining why you would rather pop into a charity shop than a high-street store when out shopping with a friend, or it could be suggesting a really great documentary you watched (like The True Cost), when somebody asks you what they should watch on Netflix.

You could also gift educational books if you want people to understand why you care about a certain issue so much. Not only will this provide them with the tools to shift their mindset themselves but it will also enable them to learn more about you. 

This can apply to a lot of sensitive topics, not just the topic of conscious consumption and buying less fast-fashion.

Top tips for buying ethical clothing on a budget?

This is always a common question, understandably. I have three different answers. Firstly – shop second-hand if you’re able to. I understand that second-hand shops aren’t always accessible to everyone and that depending on where you look, thrifting isn’t always size-inclusive. However, it’s always the most affordable and sustainable option.

You don’t even really have to think about ethics because you’re not buying new (you might just want to understand where your money goes if it’s a charity shop or part of a chain of thrift-stores).

Secondly – shop the sales of ethically-focused brands. They do have them and it’s a great way to support brands who align with your values when your budget is limited.

Lastly – shift your mindset! This is the ‘alternative’ answer because it takes time to fully grasp a hold of. The more you learn, the more you’ll end up caring and for me, that looked like drastically cutting down on what I was buying, leaving me more room to save up and spend on investment purchases.

What sort of things should I be investigating when trying to find out how ethical a fashion brand is?

My greenwashing piece is also a great one to read for this, as it breaks down the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index and the different types of commitments major brands are starting to make. It might also be helpful to make sure you know the difference between ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ because those lines can become blurred, making it harder to work out what brands are the right fit for you.

Luckily for you, I have a whole post dedicated to the definitions of ‘ethical fashion’ and ‘sustainable fashion’.

How do you stay motivated? I often feel very discouraged and like it’s not worth it.

I’d heard this dozens of times in the past and it always made a little defensive because I had reasons as to why I wasn’t but… getting out there really helps. I’ve only just started taking my activism work out into the real world (i.e off of the internet) but experiencing it in more tangible ways, has already made a huge impact in how I view the work that I’m doing and what I’m doing it for.

It has also made me feel less alone because seeing faces on a screen is so different from having flowing conversations and debates, face-to-face. One of my favourite experiences so far was attending one of the Youth Climate Strikes in London; there were 20,000 other young people marching alongside me and for once, having hope didn’t feel quite so naive.

If you’re under 25, I suggest following Extinction Rebellion’s Youth group to see how you can get involved with their protests and campaigns.

Have any more questions? Leave them as a comment and I’ll see how I can help!

(All items marked with an asterisk* were gifted to me within the past year)

I know that bite-sized breakdowns of information are often the best way of getting things across, so, in this post, I’m going to explain what the Bangladesh Accord is, in simple terms. It might not even be something you’re aware of, so perhaps this will even be a little eye-opening…

Scan of Fashion Revolution’s Zine Issue #1 – Artwork by Alke Schmidt

What is the Bangladesh Accord?

The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh was founded in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse, in May 2013. It was initiated by trade unions – organised groups of workers formed to protect their rights in the workplace – in Bangladesh, as well as global unions and labour rights groups.

The Accord required all companies and brands who signed it to be completely transparent in revealing their factories and putting in place building inspections to ensure that the factories being used were safe from any dangerous hazards, relating to fire, electricity and structural safety.

It is also asked of those brands signed onto the Accord, to be responsible for finding the funds to implement any changes or safety measures that were needed should they appear upon inspection.

One of the most important factors the Accord put in place, was the right for workers to refuse unsafe work without losing pay or suffering any form of discrimination or harm – I highlight this, as it is known workers involved in the Rana Plaza collapse voiced concerns about the factory’s condition before it occurred.

Essentially, the Bangladesh Accord ensured the safety of garment workers, those of which provide the clothes for hundreds of brands worldwide, including those which had signed on since 2013.

H&M, G-Star RAW, Arcadia Group, Debenhams, Fat Face, John Lewis, Marks & Spencer, Matalan, Mothercare, New Look, Next, Primark, and River Island, are some of the names included.

What has the Bangladesh Accord achieved?

In 2012, prior to the Rana Plaza disaster, there was the Tanzeen Fashion factory fire, which killed over 100 people and injured over 200. Similar incidents have also occurred since then, with 24 people killed in a packaging factory in 2016 (although not directly linked to garments, it’s a clear sign that this issue goes further than clothing production).

In an update released by the Accord in December 2018, 97% factories inspected lacked safe fire exits and 91% of factories required an adequate fire alarm system. These are basic needs you would expect of a factory, yet, they were still lacking and putting workers at risk. Instability of factory buildings was also found at 62% of those inspected.

(As somebody who has experience with earthquakes, the photo evidence in the update released reminded me of structural damage I’ve seen and felt unsafe with, in person – and that’s just from a house, not a building which is supposed to withhold heavy loads and powerful machinery.)

The Accord successfully worked at putting these sorts of safety and structural measures in place.

Is the Bangladesh Accord still in place?

In 2018, the new Transition Accord was put in place to ensure the continuation of the Accord in protecting the safety and rights of garment workers – and textile workers, as a whole. However, the Government of Bangladesh have since decided they would like to get rid of the Accord and the take on the responsibility with the national organisation known as the RCC or ‘Remediation Coordination Cell‘.

The Accord states that the RCC is not prepared to take on the responsibility due to lack of staffing and knowledge. The Accord would like to continue the work being done until 2021, as agreed upon when work first began, in order to transfer the knowledge and continue to aid the hundreds of factories which are still lacking in safe working conditions.

Without the Accord monitoring factories at such a scale, it’s possible that there would be no way to guarantee fixes are being put in place, meaning brands under the Accord would have to cut ties with their factories – as part of their legal agreement -, which could run the risk of Bangladesh losing a substantial amount of business in manufacturing, leaving many without jobs and income. This helpful article by Fashion United breaks it down even further.

What does this mean about the clothes we buy?

Due to the fact that Bangladesh is the 2nd largest producer of clothing in the world, it’s safe to say that a majority of what we wear is still being produced in what the Accord has found to be unsafe working conditions, putting millions of garment workers at risk every day, for our benefit – and this isn’t counting any of the discriminatory behaviour, harassment or abuse that occurs in these factories on a daily basis, the majority of which is towards exploited and underpaid female workers.

In most recent news in early January 2019, there has been a protest from Bangladeshi garment workers fighting for higher wages which caused the death of one worker and left many injured, after clashes with the police.

What can we do about it?

Support organisations such as Clean Clothes Campaign, who were one of the initial witnesses of the signing of the Accord, by sending a letter to the Bangladesh Prime Minister through the #ProtectProgress petition campaign. The goal is to reach 6,400 letters sent and all it takes is a minute of your time. The letter will send a signal that you care about the rights and safety of garment workers and would like the work of the Accord to continue.

Labour Behind The Label also needs your support. On January 30th 2019, during Bangladeshi Garment Workers Week, Labour Behind The Label is holding an urgent protest in London outside of the Bangladesh High Commission, in order to stand in solidarity of those protesting in Bangladesh itself, and to raise awareness that the Accord is still wanted and necessary to ensure a fairer fashion industry. I will be there and I hope you have the ability to be there, too.

In terms of consumption and shopping, boycotting brands who produce from Bangladesh will never work unless it’s in vast numbers; it will also never be the end goal. However, for sustainability reasons, you may already be cutting down how much you buy new and what brands you choose to support, so, I of course, urge you to continue doing so.

Slowing down is what will inevitably help steer garment factories in a safer direction because there will be less demand and therefore, less pressure, whether that be on the workers, the buildings that surround them, or the planet.

Were you aware of the Accord before? Do you have any more questions? Let me know in the comments!

If I was solely responsible for the decline of print magazines, it would be because I no longer find inspiration within the pages of a standard fashion issue. I am unfulfilled by the endless full-page advertisements and the glorification of trends and mindless shopping. So, how do I feel when a well-known, mainstream publication, focuses its infamous September Issue on sustainability?

~ BUY THE ISSUE HERE ~

By now, you’ve probably seen the beautiful blue and polka-dot cover – featuring Slick Woods – of ELLE UK’s September 2018 issue splattered all over Instagram. It seems to be a major first not only for ELLE specifically but for a good chunk of everyday fashion magazines you’ll find on your local newsstand.

From afar, it looks like any other issue of the magazine with its glossy plastic covering and it’s headline about ‘power boots’ being the latest trend, but inside, the paper has been produced from 100% recycled waste and 49 pages in, you will find an editor’s letter from Annie-Marie Curtis with the phrase “It’s better to buy less and buy well” – a phrase which I find excitingly refreshing when the majority of sustainable fashion content often revolves around the latter half of her statement (I’ve been guilty of this in the past, too).

Overall, excluding the advertisements which almost feel ill-placed (see: the spotlight interview with Stella McCartney sandwiched between two River Island promotions), the whole issue feels refreshing and with that, you might skip to thinking they couldn’t have done a better job.

There’s an editorial which highlights the team behind Fashion Revolution; Wilson Oryema is part of the guest editors list and a couple of the photoshoots feature vintage pieces, meaning they act more as style inspiration than a call-out for people to get shopping.

Quite honestly, I don’t have much to complain about or pick holes in. It’s what I would expect from a fashion magazine focusing on a topic which is much broader and larger than a single issue will ever be able to cover.

Perhaps that is the only problem, here? Perhaps the limitations of how mainstream media works, is what will always stop it from truly making an impact.

Once you look a little closer, it’s still a magazine playing it relatively safe. There are still phrases and attitudes being used which many ethically-focused brands and ‘greenfluencers’ – a term I recently shuddered at after being given the label – will try stead-fast to avoid.

Take the piece about animal prints, which suggest “You need one, don’t you?” when talking about a £2,495 coat from Victoria Beckham. Sustainability isn’t about needing or necessity, especially not listening to somebody else telling you what that is.

The prices and brands mentioned are another cause for concern; this September Issue further indulges the idea that sustainable fashion can only be done when you have hundreds of pounds to spare when in actual fact, sustainable fashion can be done with almost no money in the bank – you just have to stop shopping and start embracing what you already own. That’s still fashion.

I wish Stella McCartney’s quote – “I wasn’t given money by my mum and dad, so I always shopped vintage at charity shops. And damn it, I felt cooler for doing that.” – had been emblazoned across her feature in a big bold typeface. That’s my experience of having a sustainable wardrobe, too.

Speaking once again of Stella McCartney’s piece within the issue, one of the images from her Autumn/Winter 2017 campaign that depicts a model laying across a heap of waste in a Scottish landfill, is squashed into the corner of the page.

Most people who are well into their sustainable journey will tell you that seeing the harsh truths and gritty imagery is what made their mindset towards their clothes shift, so, why does it take up so little space?

Similarly, although there is a mention of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse in 2013, there are no images. After all, a picture speaks a thousand words but most of the pictures used in the magazine could be found in any other issue.

The reality of fashion and the impact it has on the world isn’t pretty, so, surely a sustainability issue should depict that in some way or another? We need balance and I believe that’s what ELLE may have missed out on, this time around.

It begs the question – will this always be the case for mainstream media, for as long as over-consumption and the mindset of disposable purchases, exists? Can we really rely on major publications to discuss these topics when luxury handbag spreads and discount offers still take up more space than the important issues the magazine is supposed to be highlighting?

I know the answer may seem simple; of course, this is how magazines work. The only way to get a magazine on a newsstand is to sell enough advertising spaces to afford the print run and all of the work which gets put into.

You could argue that it will create a demand for more sustainable practices if brands know that the publication has these sorts of expectations of them and that readers will now be more aware of what’s going on behind closed doors, but I’m unsure whether one issue out of a whole years’ worth has the power to do that.

Most likely, advertisers would start to turn their backs on a publication house if its magazines started suggesting that its readers stop shopping and when they do, start visiting their local Oxfam instead. But, how long are we going to feel comfortable with this reasoning for not going the extra mile?

In my dream edition of ELLE’s Sustainability Issue, there would have been images from the Rana Plaza disaster or dye-polluted rivers running from denim factories in China. There would have been more of an emphasis on re-wearing and being comfortable in what you already own (Pandora Sykes briefly touched on this, although it was from a specific and very unique perspective that the everyday reader may not be able to relate to).

And there would have been features for brands which won’t always break the bank, such as People Tree and Know The Origin who are two of the UK’s sustainability stars.

I am happy that the issue was published, and I believe it is an inspiring start. I can only hope that recycled paper is used in all the upcoming issues (the feel of it reminded me of the old Hearst print, COMPANY magazine) and that ELLE and other magazines follow in VOGUE Australia’s footsteps by putting some great minds and experts, like Clare Press, in the driver’s seat of their sustainable efforts.

As I recently said in an interview for i-D – nobody is perfect, but we really do need to embrace the small steps, and fortunately, this issue of ELLE is 306 small steps (or pages), in the right direction.

Did you read the issue? What did you make of it? Let me know in the comments!

Fashion Revolution Week is in its 5th year, raising awareness for issues within the fashion industry and creating change. The campaign falls on the week of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse which occurred in 2013 causing over 1,000 easily preventable deaths. Learn more about how to take part, here.

Fashion Revolution Week kicks off in a weeks time so as a quick reminder as to what the week is all about and ways that you can get involved, I thought I would compile a list of facts and figures that will refresh your ethical fashion knowledge! Or, not so ethical fashion knowledge, as you’ll soon see…

1. Only 20% of global textiles are recycled…

The other 80% of are either incinerated (releasing harmful chemicals into the atmosphere) or sent to landfill, to break down and release those same harmful chemicals and toxins, into the earth. That’s an extraordinary amount of harmful waste. (via Worn Again)

Clothing waste is, of course, a huge part of that. Out of collected clothing (from recycling banks, or the like), the majority is either resold (click here for why that might not be as good as it sounds) or it’s downcycled to create products like rags or stuffing for furniture. This continues the lifecycle of fabrics but it still creates yet another inevitably disposable item which will most likely end up once again, in a landfill.

2. Most of us only regularly wear 40% of our clothes…

According to Oxfam, not only do we leave 60% of our clothes hanging in our wardrobe, we also only wear an average of 16 items once. Of course, this isn’t the most daunting statistic, however, it does shine a light on our consumption habits.

On a similar note, I wrote a piece on whether having fewer clothes makes your wardrobe more sustainable, and why a sustainable wardrobe has a lot more to do with how you dispose and care for your clothes than you think.

3. Dyeing textiles is the cause of 20% of water pollution…

Changing Market’s Dirty Fashion report revealed this statistic, and it is known that denim production is one of the worst offenders. I would highly recommend watching the documentary, River Blue, for more on this subject, including some positive innovations which are being put in place to reduce the fashion industry’s impact on the world’s water systems.

4. £1.37 is the price of a living wage…

A £25.32 priced t-shirt would increase to just £26.69 if the garment workers producing it were to be paid a living wage. This is a miniscule increase, one of which the average consumer wouldn’t bat an eyelid to.

This fact and figure was taken from Fashion Revolution’s first fanzine, however, if you want a more in-depth look into garment worker wages, the best place to look is their Garment Worker Diaries report, which breaks down wages and living conditions across eastern Asia.

5. Your gym gear could take 200 years to decompose…

Another Fashion Revolution fanzine fact – A Lycra two-piece designed for sportswear could take anywhere from 20 to 200 years to decompose and break down in a landfill, compared to natural fabrics which can take only weeks.

Fabrics are important to consider whenever you’re shopping, whether it’s second-hand or new. Although it is understandable why people often opt for synthetics for durability purposes, natural fabrics will generally always be the better option whether it’s for the planet or for your body.

Did you learn something new? What’s a fact I might not know? Let me know in the comments!

Don’t forget that you can share your support for Fashion Revolution by using my collection of GIF stickers on Instagram Story! Want to know how to use them? Click here!

As much as algorithms seem to be driving a lot of the Instagram community up the wall recently – yes, we all know, it was a far better place when posts appeared chronologically – for me personally, it’s actually fast becoming one of my favourite platforms for a multitude of reasons. So today, to mix things up from my usual content, I thought I would share some ways to enjoy ‘IG’ as much as I am as well as a few recommendations of who you should be following…

 @CELINECELINES (SLOW FACTORY) // @EZRA_W_SMITH // @BEHAVEBANDANA // @STORIESBEHINDTHINGS // @UNWRINKLING // @OCEANGENERATION

Your vibe attracts your tribe…

Especially when you’re introducing yourself to sustainability and ethics, you can become bogged down in the nitty-gritty of it all and often what you really need is a nice, healthy dosage of positivity! 

Following individuals on Instagram who spread positive messages about good work being done is a quick and easy way of educating yourself without feeling like the world is facing impending doom. 

@unwrinkling (also known as Whitney Bauck) is one of my favourite Instagram users. Her day job is focusing on sustainability with her journalistic work so she merges the two, highlighting new initiatives and innovations whilst still being relatable and sharing imagery which would be fit on any other Insta-page. She introduced me to G-STAR RAW’s latest work and for that, I am very grateful.

@storiesbehindthings is an account run by Jemma and Ella who focus mainly on vintage fashion and opening up discussions with their followers about different sustainable and ethical topics. If you’re into perfectly coordinated themes and being introduced to new brands; definitely give them a follow.

@celinecelines (Céline Semaan) is the founder of The Slow Factory and is one inspiring woman. Not only does she head-up The Slow Factory #FashionActivism brand, she is also a sustainable advocate all round, being an ambassador for the Global Fashion Exchange and founding The Library. She’s a joy to follow and you all need to learn more about her.

@KNOWTHEORIGIN // @PO_ZU // @GOODNEWSLONDON // @GSTARRAW

Learn more about where your clothes come from…

In my opinion, you can trust a brand when they’re openly transparent and by that I mean, more than just sharing their list of suppliers on an interactive map.

A lot of ethically focused brands will share behind the scenes information and stories about where their clothes come from and how they were made, especially on social media. Even if you haven’t ever bought from the brand, it’s one way to understand how what you wear, becomes just that. You end up getting the answer to “Who made my clothes?” before you’ve even asked it. 

@knowtheorigin‘s Instagram is a great example of this. They often share information about their travels to their garment factories as well as videos and photos to go alongside it. Know The Origin was essentially built around the idea of transparency so they’re a good place to start if you want to follow a t-shirt from factory to finished product.

@po_zu will forever be a favourite in my mind especially if you like behind the scenes of the photoshoot variety.

Don’t forget, if you want to discover more ethical brands (even if you just want to browse their Instagram feed), my brand directory is a great place to start.

FASHION REVOLUTION X TOLLY DOLLY POSH GIFS

Saving and GIFing…

Other than following, you can also use Instagram in a variety of other ways to gain inspiration and spread the ethical message further than just your own mobile device.

Saving photos to your Saved Collections can help you decipher the sorts of styles and outfits you’re into. This allows you to work out what looks you’re still appreciating after you’ve double-tapped to give a post a like and scrolled on.

This will help the next time you’re in the mood for shopping or the next time you’re on the hunt for something new, as you’ll be able to work out more easily what might last for a long time in your wardrobe. To save a post (without anyone knowing, don’t worry) click the bookmark flag under a picture.

Making use of Instagram’s new GIPHY GIF feature is something I would advise too. Was this just an excuse to plug my stickers again? I hear you cry? Possibly, possibly. Searching terms such as ‘ethical fashion’ or ‘@tollydollyposh‘ when you’re picking something out for your next Instagram Story, is always a good call.

I can also now announce that I’ve designed a few GIFs for the wonderful @fash_rev, some of which you can see above. I’ll also be releasing a few more in the lead up to Fashion Revolution Week in April, so watch out.

Make sure to give me a follow @tollydollyposh, if you haven’t already.

How do you use Instagram for sustainable inspiration? Who should I be following? Let me know in the comments!

It can be challenging to know where to look when it comes to educating yourself on ethical fashion or becoming a conscious consumer, so, to take some of the hard work away from you, I’ve compiled a list (just like last year) of what I found helpful and educational during 2017. Below, you will find books, websites and even an industry report, which I believe will be worth your time in taking a look at…

→ Clothing Poverty by Andrew Brooks

I actually never wrote the review of this book as I had promised as I believe I may need a second read of it. It’s a little harder to digest than other books I’ve read on ethical topics and admittedly, there were certain parts of it which I disagreed with and/or I would have tackled from a different angle but that’s all part of educating ourselves; it’s important to look at things from different perspectives even if it means feeling uncomfortable or in disagreement.

I wouldn’t recommend Clothing Poverty if you haven’t read any other books on ethical topics as it may throw you in right at the deep end. However, for those of you who have already started to explore ethics and sustainability, I’d add this to your ‘To Read’ list.

☼ Ethical Consumer Magazine

This year I was kindly set up with a subscription for Ethical Consumer magazine which essentially helps consumers make more ethical decisions when shopping. I’d used their directory before becoming a member but it can be frustrating when you can’t get hold of all the information you need, so, it’s been relieving being able to dig up more than I’d been able to.

Not only can you work out what brands are excelling in different areas, you can also read their actual online publication, which covers all sorts of subjects and is full of facts and data to feed your knowledge with.

★ Ellen MacArthur Foundation – A New Textiles Economy

Fairly recently, Ellen MacArthur and Stella McCartney partnered up to launch their new report – A New Textiles Economy – which explains the current model of the fashion industry and how it can change and evolve into a circular model, to decrease the amount of waste that is currently produced through manufacturing and the ways that consumers currently dispose of unwanted clothes.

Although perhaps better reading for industry insiders, the report is thought-provoking (so far; I have yet to complete it) and is a great way of introducing yourself to the idea of cradle-to-cradle manufacturing or circular design. I know that in the next year, I want to learn even more.

▷ A Harvest of Thorns by Corban Addison (Review)

If you missed out on my review of this fictional book, then you won’t know how highly I rate it. Unlike Clothing Poverty, I believe this is a great starter book to lead you towards a more empathetic experience of fashion.

I won’t say too much here so either click on through to my review or click on through to the checkout. You won’t regret it!

✤ Fashion Revolution Fanzine – Loved Clothes Last

I may be biased here as two pieces of my work can be found within the recycled paper pages but Fashion Revolution’s fanzine never seizes to amaze me. Not only is it informative and full of its own wonderful resources, it’s also incredibly inspiring and is a great way to refuel yourself with the hope that change can and will happen.

I’m extremely honoured and proud to be part of the FR community and I will appreciate you picking up a copy as much as their team, will.

→ Ethical Revolution Video Directory

Although I’ve always been aware of Ethical Revolution, they recently introduced me to their video directory which is a great place to find new documentaries and educational clips to watch!

So far, I’ve watched the BBC mockumentary, ‘Carnage‘, which explores what the world would be like if we all changed our eating habits and became vegans (not fashion related but it fits into sustainable issues). If you prefer watching to reading, take a look!

Plus, Ethical Revolution has an exclusive discount code for Lost Shapes, which you can apply to the whole Lost Shapes x Tolly Dolly Posh collection.

What have you been reading and watching in 2017? What have you learned? Share your recommendations and findings in the comments below…

#MAKESMTHNG Week has now concluded but that doesn’t we should stop making things here. In fact, I’ve learned a thing or two taking part in this new celebration of crafting and I hope that I can inspire you to take on a project for yourself, whether it’s today or tomorrow or any day of the year…

WHAT I WORE: Embroidered Denim Shirt (DIY) // Pink Cashmere Beret (DIY) // Striped Trousers (Jumble Sale) // Dr Martens (Jumble Sale) // Recycled Rubber Handbag (Paguro Upcycle)*

Making something yourself is extremely satisfying…

I’m going to toot my own horn here and say I’m quite chuffed with my new embroidered shirt and my two rather dashing homemade berets. I may not have sewn together a wedding dress or cut a new pair of jeans from scratch but I’ve updated my wardrobe without technically adding anything new and there’s a special feeling that comes with that.

You’re always going to treasure a piece which you made with your own bare hands because you know how much hard work and time went into it.

That doesn’t mean you’ll necessarily end up wearing it more than you would wear something you’d buy but it means you won’t mindlessly throw it out or let it wear down into a bad condition – why would you? You made it! You should treasure it! It’s completely unique and only you will be able to style it up; patchy stitches, flaws and all.

Also, it’s a lot of fun to have this conversation – “Where did you get that beret?” “Oh, I made it.”

Starting small will build up your confidence…

As with anything, practice makes perfect. You don’t even have to embroider free-hand or buy a sewing machine if you don’t want to. Start from a place you feel comfortable at, even if that means getting out the iron and adding on a patch from one of your favourite artists to an old jacket.

There are some really simple ways to make something new or make something feel new, if you put your mind to it. Knowing I can turn a cashmere jumper into a beret in a couple of hours definitely makes me believe more in my abilities.

You’ll realise how much work goes into how your clothes are made…

The fact that it took me a day to upcycle one piece really put things into perspective in terms of garment workers. Fast-fashion is fast for a reason and the pressures put on manufacturers can lead to workers having to play a role in creating hundreds of garments per day, maybe even up to 900, according to the book, To Die for By by Lucy Siegle, which explains the production of t-shirts and how a group of university students in the UK using the same machines and style of production line, could only manage to produce 95 within the space of 7 hours.

I had the luxury of no time restraints, working from home with food and drink in-between, yet I still felt tired after sitting and concentrating on the sewing machine for half-an-hour and pinning fabric together.

Doing things yourself adds to the level of empathy you can have for those who are battling with our cultural demands and can make you think before you go to buy new next time.

You’ll get addicted…

Okay, maybe not actually addicted but I’ve definitely come away from this week itching to make more! I want to embroider all of the clothes I own and I already want to advance my sewing machine knowledge, in fact, I’ve taken a look at the old clothes I have stored under my bed to re-evaluate the fabric I could use. Speaking of which – does anybody have any ideas for scuba material?

GET INVOLVED WITH #MAKESMNTHNG:
Getting crafty? Tag @makesmthng + @fash_rev in your social media posts with the hashtag #MAKESMNTHNG

What did you make this week? Have my posts inspired you to make something in the future? Let me know in the comments!

If you haven’t been following along, this week is #MAKESMTHNG Week, created by Greenpeace and supported by Fashion Revolution to inspire us all to put down the shopping bags and make something ourselves to take a break from the cycle of endless consumption. After I scratched my itch for some embroidery, I decided to attempt the rather on-trend beret…

WHAT I USED: Zebra Top & Pink Cashmere Jumper (Originally Secondhand) // Sewing Machine // Pins // 2 x Different Sized Circles // Measuring Tape // Scissors // Felt Tip

Making something that is currently in trend is not only a great way to treasure it for longer due to all of the hard work you put in, it’s also a great way to truly work out whether you’re going to enjoy wearing something for a long period of time, or not, without having to splash much cash or shop from a non-ethical brand.

The idea of making a beret from scratch was mainly born out of my need for a nice-looking winter hat that kept me that little bit warmer but I’m sure subconsciously the fact that they’re popping up everywhere currently was a selling point too.

Recently, my pink cashmere turtle-neck shrunk in the wash – Don’t! Wash! Your! Clothes! Irresponsibly! Kids! – so, once my grieving period was over, I decided it deserved to live on, no matter how badly I wanted it to shrink back to its original state.

I also had an old zebra top folded up in my drawer which 13-year-old Tolly loved almost as much, so I took the two of them to my dining table and got to work!

I started with my zebra top to get a feel for what I was doing just in case I didn’t like the outcome and decided to leave the high-quality cashmere for another day. I can’t take credit for the pattern of this beret; I used a guide I found on Instructables which was really simply laid out.

TLDR for the basic hat itself – cut two relatively large circles with one of them cut like a doughnut before sewing them together on your sewing machine, and turning them inside out.

Just like I did with my first attempt at embroidery, I’m going to list some tips and tricks I worked out along the way, below:

As berets are usually made out of felt, woollen fabrics work best…

I do love the outcome of my zebra beret (it has a different sort of fit and will work with more monochromatic outfits), however, my cashmere jumper definitely worked better fabric wise. Not only does it look more like a traditional beret, it also has a better shape and sits more roundly on my head.

Of course you can experiment with other materials, but if you have an old jumper or sweater lying around, that might be your best bet.

Use lots of pins!

I found my pink beret so much easier to put through the machine because I used far more pins than I had with my zebra beret which was a big rookie error. I’m still not perfectly confident with a machine and have to use it on a relatively slow setting but I could speed things up when I knew my fabric wasn’t going to move about or bunch up under the machine’s foot.

When using an old item of clothing, use your scraps…

For my zebra beret, I used the tight but stretchy high-neck as my headband. This reduced the number of scraps I had left-over and allowed me to skip over the step of creating a new band (like I did with my pink beret).

Although it did involve a bit of skill (gathering was needed), it’s funny and satisfying to think the band which usually stretched over my head, now sits on top of it perfectly.

You can create a faux beret bobble…

Or… nipple/tassel/whatever you’d like to call it. I took a small cutting of my pink cashmere, folded it over and very carefully squeezed it under my machine and went back and forth once or twice to stitch it together and give it some structure.

I then took a needle and my pink thread and hand-sewed it to the centre of my beret. If you do it neatly and discreetly enough, it will stand loud and proud and look like the real thing!

GET INVOLVED WITH #MAKESMNTHNG:
Getting crafty? Tag @makesmthng + @fash_rev in your social media posts with the hashtag #MAKESMNTHNG during the week of December 2nd – December 10th!

Have you been working on any DIYs this week? Share your crafty stories in the comments below…

This week marks the inaugural #MAKESMTHNG (Make Something) Week by Greenpeace. The holiday season, especially with sales and promotions such as Black Friday and the Boxing Day sales, is one of the busiest shopping periods of the year and although that may be all well and good – especially for gift-giving and saving money on essentials – it’s a time when we often tend to forget other alternatives like making things…

WHAT I USED: Denim Shirt (Originally Johnnie B) // Embroidery Hoops // Embroidery Thread // Embroidery Needles

Instead of shopping, Greenpeace alongside Fashion Revolution, are aiming to inspire us all to make something of our own, whether it be big or small, our first project or one of many, in order to take a break from our culture of over-consumption and take a leaf from someone else’s book to understand the true value of how our clothes are made.

I was asked to take part and I have to say, it’s done the trick. I started off small myself as admittedly, I’m still on a journey when it comes to the actual creation of clothes and accessories.

There’s a lot to it and it can feel awfully daunting if you’ve never put needle-to-fabric or iron-to-iron-on-patch, before! The inspiration behind my first project came mainly from the wonderfully woven artwork I’ve been following along on Instagram lately.

Embroidery may be a trend which flows in-and-out of the fashion cycle every other season but it’s actually a craft which originates from even as early as 300 AD (according to Stitches in Time). Now you can find examples of embroidery by designers such as Valentino – it’s one of the reasons I admire their haute-couture collections so much.

As I said, I’m still an amateur in certain areas and although I’ve dabbled in cross-stitch work in the past, I’ve never properly attempted embroidery.

Fuelled by #MAKESMTHNG motivation, I picked up an embroidery hoop, some threads in primary colours and a pack of needles and got stitching some #MAKESMTHNG imagery on to a denim shirt-dress I owned double-of.

Later on, I also went on to chop down and hem the shirt-dress into a blouse – using a sewing machine – and added a new popper, which was the reason I hadn’t been wearing it in the first place, therefore bringing new life to something that was shoved in a bin-bag.

Here is my advice for helping any fellow embroidery novices:

Having a basic sewing knowledge will help…

Although I definitely had to head to YouTube for some tips on how to achieve different stitches, actually putting them into practice was far easier than I thought because it’s not too far removed from ordinary sewing.

I would recommend having a practice on a scrap piece of fabric (or maybe a t-shirt you could easily unpick on) so that you feel more confident when you start off. Straight stitch is as simple as going in and out of the fabric and back stitch is as simple as going in, well, backwards. Speaking of which…

Don’t feel like you have to use a strict stitching pattern…

Of course, sticking to the same style of stitch is essential in certain scenarios but don’t feel like you have to only use one style to complete something. I used a mix of straight, back, satin and split stitches to achieve all of the shapes I was working on.

I sort of winged-it in a sense, using what stitch felt best on each area. Satin stitch – stitching as close together as possible – will of course always be easiest for filling in blocks of colour.

WHAT I WORE: Many Questions T-Shirt £20.00 (Lost Shapes x Tolly Dolly Posh) // Black Trousers (Charity Shop) // Watch (Casio)* 

Be as even as possible…

You can actually see the difference in me implementing this rather obvious piece of advice just by looking at the hand shape versus the eye shape which I embroidered. The white of the eye is a lot less patchy as I took more time to make my satin stitch as smooth as I could.

Satin stitch works best with smaller areas (see my little yellow stars and the pink circle) but you can definitely achieve a similar effect if you put your mind to it. I’m wondering if this was a little trickier as I was working on a denim fabric – if you’re an embroidery expert, please do let me know!

Use interfacing to avoid fraying…

If you’re going to be embroidering on to an item of clothing, use some iron-on interfacing on the backside of your embroidery work. This will help you avoid it coming undone or lessen the chances of it fraying when you wear it. Seeing as it won’t be visible, you don’t have to be too neat with this.

GET INVOLVED WITH #MAKESMNTHNG:
Getting crafty? Tag @makesmthng + @fash_rev in your social media posts with the hashtag #MAKESMNTHNG during the week of December 2nd – December 10th!

I’ll be back soon with another project but for now, let me know what you’ll be making in the comments…

In celebration of the launch of Lost Shapes x Tolly Dolly Posh last week, I thought I would explore the meanings behind each design and turn them in to helpful articles for you to use and put into practice. First up is my Keep on Asking design. You may have heard me suggest these ideas in many blog posts before but that’s just how important I think they are. Here are 10 simple ways to keep on asking…

~ SHOP LOST SHAPES X TOLLY DOLLY POSH ~
Featured: Keep on Asking

1. Use your voice on social media…

Although I understand that “clicktivism” isn’t always the most powerful tool, especially when it’s thrown in amongst content that is quite the opposite, if you have a platform, I definitely advise using it. Even if you’re not necessarily a blogger or don’t specifically use social media to reach a specific audience, just one click might inspire one person to follow in your ethical and conscious footsteps.

2. …and your voice in real life…

As I said, empowering and inspiring on social media isn’t always the answer, so get out there and talk to people you know about these issues in real life. Even if just means casually dropping in a question or thought about ethical fashion whilst you’re shopping with a friend, it’s the same principle – it may just cause a chain reaction. Ask your friend or family member if they’ve ever thought about where their clothes come from or how something can be priced so cheaply.

3. Ask yourself questions…

It’s all well and good subtly dropping these questions and concerns into a conversation but if we’re not repeatedly asking ourselves these questions, then how can we become more conscious? Ask yourself if the action you’re taking is the best one – could I recycle this shirt differently? Do I really know where my dress came from? Is the label telling me enough?

4. Join in with #WhoMadeMyClothes…

I’ve encouraged this enough and it was one of the main inspirations behind the slogan t-shirt in my collaboration. Every year, Fashion Revolution asks consumers and customers to ask brands who made their clothes to push for transparency and challenge what we know of the fashion industry.

5. Take longer to decide before buying…

Use my helpful guide on how to know if you’ll actually wear what you’re buying if you want to work out easier ways to decide on your purchases beforehand. This can really help us all become more sustainable.

6. Write a letter to brands you love…

Using Fashion Revolution’s helpful guides, write a letter or a post card to a brand that you love. Admittedly I have yet to do this, so perhaps I’ll report back in the near future when I give it a shot myself. Writing a letter could bury a seed into the mind of someone has more power than somebody reading a brand’s social media feeds and really shows you’re willing to put in the effort for something you feel strongly about.

7. Look for warning signs…

Are you being greenwashed? Do you even know what greenwashing means? Learning how to identify signs of a product or brand not being quite as eco-friendly or ethical as it seems can help us avoid buying into the idea of sustainability and ethics being a trend. I spoke about greenwashing here and I hope it helps you keep your eyes peeled.

8. Question price…

…because your t-shirt shouldn’t cost less than your trip to Starbucks. Price doesn’t mean everything; just because an item is more expensive doesn’t mean it is immediately more ethical. In my opinion, you shouldn’t trust any brand that is selling at absurdly low prices (I’m talking about the likes of Primark and H&M) because it’s obvious they are cutting corners. At the same time, research brands that charge more so you know what you’re really paying for and investing in.

9. See if you can find an alternative…

If you know what you’re buying isn’t necessarily ethical, perhaps hold up on purchasing and see if you can find an ethical alternative or even a second-hand one. This ties in with taking longer to decide before buying but is especially important if you’re either investing in a product or re-purchasing an essential wardrobe item that you might benefit investing in, anyway. Quality lasts, folks!

10. Don’t take anything at face value…

This final step is really the whole idea of asking questions and pushing for transparency. We need to know as much as possible in order to make conscious and considered decisions that will not only help us but other people and the planet. Ask questions, even if they seem simple and easy to answer – they should be if they’re not already.