autumn winter 2016

As I mentioned in my London Fashion Week AW16 Review, I thought it would be nice to take a look at the collections coming out of Milan Fashion Week AW16 too, especially since I’m currently in Italy having a bit of an explore. There aren’t as many to list off, mainly because I’m not so familiar with a lot of the names, but I’ve tried my best to out the best of the best (well, for me personally, that is). (All images via Vogue.co.uk)

~ DOLCE & GABBANA – RATING: 8/10 ~

Just like over at London Fashion Week,  it’s yet another collection that is themed like a fairy tale. Inspired by Cinderella, Sleeping Beauty and Snow White, this collection is a taste of the classic princess life. It’s fun, it’s playful and it’s youthful, but the way it’s all put together shows that just anyone can live the dream, any time they like. I absolutely adored the finale too – I love that with Dolce & Gabbana, they always leave you on such a bold and exciting note.

~ EMILIO PUCCI – RATING: 7/10 ~

Inspired by alpine sports and all things leisurely, this collection is a taste of the Pucci brand… like, almost literally, seeing as there are a couple of Pucci slogans plastered across taffeta silk tops. I absolutely love the alpine prints and the colours used… it has a vintage feel but it’s still fresh and modern, and you can definitely pick out those space age feels – metallic jackets and zippers on show? Yes please.

~ FENDI – RATING: 8.5/10 ~

Fendi always intrigues me because the collections are always so fun and that’s probably got to do something with the fact that Karl Lagerfeld is behind it all. With striped fur coats (that are 100% going to be everywhere in AW16) and ruffles, it’s quite a texture spectacle.

It has it’s more watered down pieces though, with deep purple velvets and black pinafore dresses… every piece is something that you’d want to own and I think that’s the pure purpose of the collection.

It’s lusty and makes you drool just a little bit, and that’s essential these days because social media is what makes the world tick… and social media is full of snaps of things we like to drool over, and I’m certain Instagram will be full of Fendi come autumn time.

~ MAX MARA – RATING: 7/10 ~

A 20s inspired collection that kicks ass. It’s full of pant suits (or trouser suits) and bold shapes that pack a punch, it’s a really great range that doesn’t say too much, in a great way… and there’s even more faux fur stripes. Colour blocking stripes are another noteworthy trend, this is just a great Italian example. There’s also crayon, head-to-toe looks in mono colours (where else did we see that? Oh yes, ASHISH). It’s simple, it’s sharp and it’s smart. Outerwear at its best.

~ MSGM – RATING: 7/10 ~

If I had to put a label on MSGM AW16, it would be ‘sporty granny chic’, whether that’s the intention or not, I don’t know, but I kind of like it. It’s almost a way of just saying, wear whatever because anything works, because it really does. There are a few 80s shapes again with the oversized coats and bomber jackets, but for me it’s the mix matched pieces which are drawing me in the most. I especially love the half-and-half sweater… now that would make an interesting DIY project, wouldn’t it?

~ PRADA – RATING: 8/10 ~

This is a really interesting a collection by Prada. For me it’s like Hollywood meets World War II (not that World War II should be romanticised like that, but you know what I mean). It’s glamorous but dark, it’s layered yet simple and it’s also telling a story from start to finish.

What I didn’t see until I looked a little closer, was the books that hang around the necks of each model, or the books that hang around waistbands and belts. What are they a nod to? Are they a nod to the attempt of trying to bring peace? Books of spells to cast upon the world, or are they a nod to the many accounts of World War II and it’s survivors? It’s an interesting touch and it definitely gives the collection more depth, although it doesn’t really need it because the clothes all speak for themselves.

~ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO – 8/10 ~

More colour and stripes! This honestly must be the most colourful AW for a long time and I’m so happy about that. Missoni-esque chevrons, fluid streamline shapes (that you guys know I love), exposed zips and disco inspired prints all feature amongst even more wacky faux fur. It’s bold and dazzling yet it has that very minimalistic Italian feel throughout, even when it comes down to a chessboard style checkered blouse.

~ TOD’S – RATING: 9/10 ~

I’m mainly featuring Tod’s because of the fact that I have actually passed their HQ in Sant’Elpidio a Mare (Italy) many times now, which is quite exciting, so now that I know of their brand, I’m much more interested in seeing what’s going on, especially at MFW. Artist, Vanessa Beecroft, set the scene with an installation at the show which involved Karlie Kloss being sewn into a leather one piece (a nod to the leather work that Tod’s is known for, especially in the footwear department).

As we saw at LFW, the 70s is still in and I really love how Tod’s proved that. Laid back knitwear and suede are big features, along with tartan and huge fur collars that remind us of the shearling jackets that are a big hit currently.

Of course we should take note of the shoes too, which are tied up with laces and bows that pull things altogether. I really, really like it, even if I am slightly bias to the fact that I’m currently not too far to where the origins of these designs came from.

~ VERSACE – RATING: 9/10 ~

I was interested to see where Versace went for the women’s AW16 collection because I was actually pleasantly surprised by the men’s. I’ve never been a huge fan of Versace but perhaps that’s because I tend to associate them with the logo splattered pieces and rather marmite like golds… but I think they’re starting to win me over.

Donatella says it was a collection to bring the power back to every kind of woman, and quite like that. It’s more evidence that for us colour loving people, AW16 definitely won’t disappoint. They’re wearable colours too… navy blues with muted corals and neon yellows that break things up, all in very sleek and modern shapes that are a nod to what we saw at the men’s show indeed.

There are also pieces for those of you who prefer the more ice queen, pastel shades for winter, as you can see on Kendall Jenner (I think that’s her name – I honestly don’t follow the happenings of that side of social media but fashion week and model castings keep me upto date). It’s actually really nice, and I am definitely a fan. Versace are in my good books, people!

What do you think of Milan Fashion Week AW16? Who was your favourite Italian designer? Let me know in the comments below! 

So now that London Fashion Week AW16 is over, and it’s about time we get to the reviewing and reflecting! I might be doing a Milan Fashion Week review too, seeing as I’m currently in Italy (it seems rather fitting). AW16 seems like it’s going to be a good one, especially in the footwear department. So let’s check out what happened at Brewer Street Car Park… (All images via Vogue.co.uk)

Alexander McQueen // Anya Hindmarch // ASHISH // Burberry // Holly Fulton // House of Holland // Mary Katrantzou // Molly Goddard // Mulberry // Richard Malone // Topshop UNIQUE // Vivienne Westwood

~ ALEXANDER McQUEEN – RATING: 8/10 ~

Another thing you should know by now from my past reviews, is that I love intricate detailing that takes clothing and fashion to a new level of an art form. I love precision and beading and embellishments and all of the small details that come together to create something transformative… and all of that is within the Alexander McQueen AW16 collection.

It’s very feminine in terms of shapes and styles, with lace bras and sheer fabrics being a key focus, but it still has that toughness running through which I think designers have started to do more and more over the years. It’s yet another collection that hints to space and all things dreamlike, with symbolic moons and stars dotted throughout.

It’s regal and every piece has a sense of presence, and I think that’s most definitely true to McQueen. A big congratulations to Sarah Burton on a wonderful collection, especially since she is heavily pregnant… incredible!

~ ANYA HINDMARCH – RATING: 9/10 ~

After becoming slightly uninterested in the whole ‘novelty’ fashion theme, Anya Hindmarch has won me back again with a very tech based, Tetris and Pacman inspired collection that makes for a good inbetween with novelty and good old, high fashion.

First of all, I’ll talk about how incredible the show was (on live stream)… the set had moving Tetris pieces that created and an incredible backdrop to the cast of models, which were walking down the catwalk to a beat that turned into a computer generated voice before they lined up for the final presentation.

It was really quite interesting and I love the question of “Do computers dream when they sleep?” that went along with it. In terms of the actual collection, I also loved it. Like I said, it was a great balance of novelty and true designs all of course with a classic Hindmarch twist.

There were Pacman handbags, Minecraft inspired faux fur and a nod to previous collections with the fried egg symbols and the sticker covered shoes. It was all around, a wonderful collection and such a great show, that will be sure to be a big hit next season.

~ ASHISH – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

Gah, I really do love ASHISH but I think this season was lacking in something. I really love the crayon box inspired idea, with each look being top-to-toe one colour, but it just doesn’t feel as dramatic and exciting as usual. I won’t lie, I’d still like to own most of it, but unfortunately (and I am being very subjective here), this isn’t my favourite collection of the season which is rare for me and ASHISH. It’s a bold move though, with everything being so simple, and for that, I applaud Gupta.

~ BURBERRY – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

With the news of Burberry becoming one of the first brands to transition from the usual fashion week schedule of see now, buy later, it’s interesting to see what’s in store next. What I think is interesting, is that every look is quite different. There is of course the overall theme of masculinity mixing with femininity, slouchy seventies etc… but I would say that usually with Burberry, you can spot out pieces in different variations.

Perhaps this is to do with the change… with people needing things that are totally new. One big thing you can spot is texture; there are sequins and heavily embroidered garments. It is different, but it’s still very Burberry and I’m sure it will be a big hit to those people who get to have a chance at pre-ordering their favourites.

~ HOLLY FULTON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

Another designer who always sticks to her routers, showing a definite signature style throughout is Holly Fulton. Although inspired mainly by David Inshaw’s painting “The Badminton Game”, I can still feel those space age style themes running throughout in a slightly mechanical style… whether that’s just my eyes, I don’t know, but I like it nonetheless.

Intricate, folksy style prints across wide A-line pieces are mixed in with organza creates a lot of drama and activity to a collection that could have been a lot more basic. I love the muted pink tones (I’m a big fan of them right now) so that small addition definitely wins me over.

~ HOUSE OF HOLLAND – RATING: 8/10 ~

A meet in the middle of seventies and twenties inspired pieces, I think I’m starting to fall back in love with HOH. There’s flapper inspired sequin dresses (you know how I love sequins, but really, does anyone do them better than ASHISH? Actually, maybe they can this season…?!) and laid back fits in the form of loose jumpsuits and oversized robe style jackets.

There’s also a hint to the ‘space’ trend that has already started popping up all over (we saw it with Versace’s men’s collection). I would say it’s a nice nod to the late, great, David Bowie, but that was only a small portion of his career so we should take note of that. I think this collection is one of my favourite HOH collections for a long while now.

~ MARY KATRANTZOU – RATING: 8/10 ~

I sort of fell out of love with Katrantzou over the past two seasons but I think this one has won me back, surprisingly. Although there are strong, western cowboy themes throughout, all I can think of when I look at each look is; disco. It’s a party collection at heart and that’s proven by the flashy metallics and bold star prints.

Of course the shirt dresses were a big focus, and they will most definitely be an inspiration for the high street, there’s a lot of other things to be looking out for too… like the faux fur coats which is super interesting to see Mary focusing on, especially in such a bold manner. It really works though and I LOVE it. It’s such a fun collection, that you can still class as beautiful and ethereal, just like last season.

~ MOLLY GODDARD – RATING: 8/10 ~

I love seeing what Molly has to offer because it’s always so genuine and you can tell that so much love and genuine creativity is put into her work. It’s also love to see such a diverse casting of models too… it’s just refreshing. Everything she does is refreshing and I love that.

If I were to personally put a pin into what the collection is to me… it’s a bit like the 2010 version of Alice In Wonderland. It’s dark, mysterious but still playful and girly. There’s bright pastel tones in the form of puffy dresses, but there’s still the full, deep textures and darker shades. It’s a really lovely collection and I’m still totally obsessed with her signature style.

~ MULBERRY – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I feel as if this collection will cause some form of controversy regarding the heritage of Mulberry and its previous collections because as you can see, it’s definitely something new… but is that really a problem? In my opinion, no. I think it’s really refreshing to see something new from such a brand, no matter what we’re used to.

It’s still sleek and streamlined and there are still nods to the shapes that we’re used to, but it feels lighter and I love that. I also love the shoes – I think that’s one thing I’ve noticed across the whole of LFW – AW16 is going to be a good season for footwear.

~ RICHARD MALONE (Fashion East) – RATING: 8/10 ~

Malone is definitely a designer to keep your eyes on. I’ve mentioned many times before but I love streamlined collections that are simple with not too much fuss, yet they still pack a punch, and this is definitely one of them. I absolutely love the use of stripes and shapes. It’s almost nautical, especially with the different shades of blue and the bright yellow breaking things up. I really do love it, and I’ll definitely be looking more into his work.

~ TOPSHOP UNIQUE – RATING: 8/10 ~

With Topshop comes a very similar colour palette to what we saw over with Holly Fulton. Dreamy, woodland colours (and prints) with a strong balance of monochrome at the same time. It’s deep, it’s dark, it’s mysterious and it definitely pulls you in… and dare I say it, a few of those dresses could be classed as sexy. It’s a strong collection and it shows that Topshop are finally finding their UNIQUE feet.

~ VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – RATING: 7/10 ~

When I was watching the show, my first thought was “It’s a marmite collection – you either love it, or you hate it”, so when the Style.com review says that too… well, then I guess that’s exactly how to put it. It’s a classic Westwood collection once again, but that’s nothing new. Every Vivienne Westwood show has classic pieces that you can pick out in each line up.

The shows are rare for that because although you can obviously pick out similarities, it always ends up looking so different with such a different feel. There’s the classic neck lines, there’s the outerwear that hasn’t aged a day and there’s the draping… but it’s all new.

Personally I believe there are nods to the cyber world, a bit like Anya Hindmarch, but then I might just be picking up on similar prints and patterns. It all adds up though… every small detail goes towards the next season as a whole, so I’m sure this collection will influence it.

What did you think of London Fashion Week AW16? Are you excited about what’s in store? Let me know in the comments!