Fashion

So as you will know from the past couple of years, I’m a big supporter of Fashion Revolution, so this is just a quick reminder for those of you who are new around here (or just new to Fashion Revolution Day in general)… it’s also a great way to refresh your mind on how to support the campaign even if you’ve joined in before…

On the 24th April 2013, 1,134 people were killed and over 2,500 were injured when the Rana Plaza complex collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh. That’s when Fashion Revolution was born. The campaign and it’s supporters believe that 1,134 is too many people to lose from the planet in one factory on one terrible day to not stand up and demand change.

On 24 April every year, Fashion Revolution Day brings people from all over the world together to use the power of fashion to change the story for the people who make the world’s clothes. Fashion needs to become a force for good. The aim is to transform the fashion industry into a transparent one and that all starts with the question… who made my clothes?

One of the main ways to get involved is through social media, asking the all important #whomademyclothes hashtag. Send a picture or selfie of your clothes, inside out, with the label showing and tweet the brand, to ask who made it. Keep trying if you don’t receive an answer – it should be an easy question to answer for all brands, no matter how big or small. Here’s an example tweet (click to use it!)…

I’m [name] and I want to thank the people who made my [clothes] Hi @ [brand] #whomademyclothes? @Fash_Rev

If you’re a blogger, then make use of the resources on the Fashion Revolution site to make up your own images for your blog and social media. Spread the word to as many of your followers as possible!

If you’re out and about shopping over the next week (and well… anytime), make sure to hit up your local charity, vintage and second hand shops! Don’t be scared… just go in, take a look and save some money! Change your mindset… think about where your clothes are coming from and how they effect the world we’re living in, and the people in it. Don’t buy something just because it’s cheap – think about the alternatives. DIY and revamping is also included! It all counts.

TDP Archive: The Importance of Second Hand Shopping // Starting An Ethical Wardrobe // Ethical Directory

One of the biggest and most important things to do is… educate yourself! Learn more about why these sorts of issues are effecting the fashion industry. If you wear clothes, then you should know about wear they come from and what happens after we let them go, right? Right. One of the best documentaries that I can personally recommend, is The True Cost. I’ve written about it before, but I don’t mind bringing it up again. Please watch it and let me know what you learnt!

Reading Material: The Label Doesn’t Tell The Whole Story // Rana Plaza // The Plastic Age

Let me know if you get any responses from your favourite brands in the comments! Let’s do this together!

I thought it would be nice to do a little round-up of brands that I’ve discovered whilst travelling around Italy. Not only can you take note for your next holiday, but you can get a taste of the sorts of things I’ve been loving recently. The price ranges vary and I’ve included a brand that you may have heard of already, so hopefully all of you can discover something new that suits you!

~ STRADIVARIUS ~
Low-end, high street bugdet 💰🇮🇹

If you read my post on combating feeling judged and self-conscious, then you would have seen me wearing a Stradivarius piece already. Mama Posh kindly bought me a little number from them and I soon fell in love. Although I’m trying to shop more ethically, I absolutely love their aesthetic and the prices are pretty damn good for what you get. It’s nice finding a brand that is fresh and sticks to a clean theme, especially when it’s on the lower end of the price range, so I’m in awe of everything really.

My two favourite pieces currently are this satin rucksack and this ruffled blouse. I’m huge on blouses so any chance I can get at adding another to my collection, I’ll take!

~ GILMAR LAB* ~
High-end, designer labels 💰💰🇮🇹

On the higher end of the scale, I was recently introduced to Gilmar Lab which has a collection of lovely Italian designers, including ICEBERG who’s pieces I have featured above. Another brand which is simple and sleek, with a clear vision and aesthetic.

I’ve chosen yet another blouse because I adore the embellished panel detailing… the colours are really satisfying together. On top of blouses, I’m also loving sweatshirts (usually with slogans), and this embroidered one is such a stunning piece.

~ PULL AND BEAR ~
European, high street budget 💰🌍

Lastly, but not least, is a brand which we have back in the UK too – Pull and Bear. It’s actually a Spanish brand but seeing as I only started browsing their shops in Italy, I thought they were worthy of a mention.

I’ve already picked up a sweater from here which is a mustard yellow 70s style piece, and it was Made in Portugal which made me extra happy. Not all of their pieces are made in Europe, but going in store to look at the labels is definitely something I’d recommend. I’m very tempted by that Forget The Rules top because it is totally me. One for the birthday wishlist, perhaps?

What brands have you recently discovered? Do you know of any other Italian fashion brands? Let me know in the comments! I’d love to discover more 🙂

(This is a sponsored post in collaboration with Gilmar Lab. All opinions are 100% honest. You can read my full disclaimer here.)

As I mentioned in my London Fashion Week AW16 Review, I thought it would be nice to take a look at the collections coming out of Milan Fashion Week AW16 too, especially since I’m currently in Italy having a bit of an explore. There aren’t as many to list off, mainly because I’m not so familiar with a lot of the names, but I’ve tried my best to out the best of the best (well, for me personally, that is). (All images via Vogue.co.uk)

~ DOLCE & GABBANA – RATING: 8/10 ~

Just like over at London Fashion Week,  it’s yet another collection that is themed like a fairy tale. Inspired by Cinderella, Sleeping Beauty and Snow White, this collection is a taste of the classic princess life. It’s fun, it’s playful and it’s youthful, but the way it’s all put together shows that just anyone can live the dream, any time they like. I absolutely adored the finale too – I love that with Dolce & Gabbana, they always leave you on such a bold and exciting note.

~ EMILIO PUCCI – RATING: 7/10 ~

Inspired by alpine sports and all things leisurely, this collection is a taste of the Pucci brand… like, almost literally, seeing as there are a couple of Pucci slogans plastered across taffeta silk tops. I absolutely love the alpine prints and the colours used… it has a vintage feel but it’s still fresh and modern, and you can definitely pick out those space age feels – metallic jackets and zippers on show? Yes please.

~ FENDI – RATING: 8.5/10 ~

Fendi always intrigues me because the collections are always so fun and that’s probably got to do something with the fact that Karl Lagerfeld is behind it all. With striped fur coats (that are 100% going to be everywhere in AW16) and ruffles, it’s quite a texture spectacle.

It has it’s more watered down pieces though, with deep purple velvets and black pinafore dresses… every piece is something that you’d want to own and I think that’s the pure purpose of the collection.

It’s lusty and makes you drool just a little bit, and that’s essential these days because social media is what makes the world tick… and social media is full of snaps of things we like to drool over, and I’m certain Instagram will be full of Fendi come autumn time.

~ MAX MARA – RATING: 7/10 ~

A 20s inspired collection that kicks ass. It’s full of pant suits (or trouser suits) and bold shapes that pack a punch, it’s a really great range that doesn’t say too much, in a great way… and there’s even more faux fur stripes. Colour blocking stripes are another noteworthy trend, this is just a great Italian example. There’s also crayon, head-to-toe looks in mono colours (where else did we see that? Oh yes, ASHISH). It’s simple, it’s sharp and it’s smart. Outerwear at its best.

~ MSGM – RATING: 7/10 ~

If I had to put a label on MSGM AW16, it would be ‘sporty granny chic’, whether that’s the intention or not, I don’t know, but I kind of like it. It’s almost a way of just saying, wear whatever because anything works, because it really does. There are a few 80s shapes again with the oversized coats and bomber jackets, but for me it’s the mix matched pieces which are drawing me in the most. I especially love the half-and-half sweater… now that would make an interesting DIY project, wouldn’t it?

~ PRADA – RATING: 8/10 ~

This is a really interesting a collection by Prada. For me it’s like Hollywood meets World War II (not that World War II should be romanticised like that, but you know what I mean). It’s glamorous but dark, it’s layered yet simple and it’s also telling a story from start to finish.

What I didn’t see until I looked a little closer, was the books that hang around the necks of each model, or the books that hang around waistbands and belts. What are they a nod to? Are they a nod to the attempt of trying to bring peace? Books of spells to cast upon the world, or are they a nod to the many accounts of World War II and it’s survivors? It’s an interesting touch and it definitely gives the collection more depth, although it doesn’t really need it because the clothes all speak for themselves.

~ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO – 8/10 ~

More colour and stripes! This honestly must be the most colourful AW for a long time and I’m so happy about that. Missoni-esque chevrons, fluid streamline shapes (that you guys know I love), exposed zips and disco inspired prints all feature amongst even more wacky faux fur. It’s bold and dazzling yet it has that very minimalistic Italian feel throughout, even when it comes down to a chessboard style checkered blouse.

~ TOD’S – RATING: 9/10 ~

I’m mainly featuring Tod’s because of the fact that I have actually passed their HQ in Sant’Elpidio a Mare (Italy) many times now, which is quite exciting, so now that I know of their brand, I’m much more interested in seeing what’s going on, especially at MFW. Artist, Vanessa Beecroft, set the scene with an installation at the show which involved Karlie Kloss being sewn into a leather one piece (a nod to the leather work that Tod’s is known for, especially in the footwear department).

As we saw at LFW, the 70s is still in and I really love how Tod’s proved that. Laid back knitwear and suede are big features, along with tartan and huge fur collars that remind us of the shearling jackets that are a big hit currently.

Of course we should take note of the shoes too, which are tied up with laces and bows that pull things altogether. I really, really like it, even if I am slightly bias to the fact that I’m currently not too far to where the origins of these designs came from.

~ VERSACE – RATING: 9/10 ~

I was interested to see where Versace went for the women’s AW16 collection because I was actually pleasantly surprised by the men’s. I’ve never been a huge fan of Versace but perhaps that’s because I tend to associate them with the logo splattered pieces and rather marmite like golds… but I think they’re starting to win me over.

Donatella says it was a collection to bring the power back to every kind of woman, and quite like that. It’s more evidence that for us colour loving people, AW16 definitely won’t disappoint. They’re wearable colours too… navy blues with muted corals and neon yellows that break things up, all in very sleek and modern shapes that are a nod to what we saw at the men’s show indeed.

There are also pieces for those of you who prefer the more ice queen, pastel shades for winter, as you can see on Kendall Jenner (I think that’s her name – I honestly don’t follow the happenings of that side of social media but fashion week and model castings keep me upto date). It’s actually really nice, and I am definitely a fan. Versace are in my good books, people!

What do you think of Milan Fashion Week AW16? Who was your favourite Italian designer? Let me know in the comments below! 

So now that London Fashion Week AW16 is over, and it’s about time we get to the reviewing and reflecting! I might be doing a Milan Fashion Week review too, seeing as I’m currently in Italy (it seems rather fitting). AW16 seems like it’s going to be a good one, especially in the footwear department. So let’s check out what happened at Brewer Street Car Park… (All images via Vogue.co.uk)

Alexander McQueen // Anya Hindmarch // ASHISH // Burberry // Holly Fulton // House of Holland // Mary Katrantzou // Molly Goddard // Mulberry // Richard Malone // Topshop UNIQUE // Vivienne Westwood

~ ALEXANDER McQUEEN – RATING: 8/10 ~

Another thing you should know by now from my past reviews, is that I love intricate detailing that takes clothing and fashion to a new level of an art form. I love precision and beading and embellishments and all of the small details that come together to create something transformative… and all of that is within the Alexander McQueen AW16 collection.

It’s very feminine in terms of shapes and styles, with lace bras and sheer fabrics being a key focus, but it still has that toughness running through which I think designers have started to do more and more over the years. It’s yet another collection that hints to space and all things dreamlike, with symbolic moons and stars dotted throughout.

It’s regal and every piece has a sense of presence, and I think that’s most definitely true to McQueen. A big congratulations to Sarah Burton on a wonderful collection, especially since she is heavily pregnant… incredible!

~ ANYA HINDMARCH – RATING: 9/10 ~

After becoming slightly uninterested in the whole ‘novelty’ fashion theme, Anya Hindmarch has won me back again with a very tech based, Tetris and Pacman inspired collection that makes for a good inbetween with novelty and good old, high fashion.

First of all, I’ll talk about how incredible the show was (on live stream)… the set had moving Tetris pieces that created and an incredible backdrop to the cast of models, which were walking down the catwalk to a beat that turned into a computer generated voice before they lined up for the final presentation.

It was really quite interesting and I love the question of “Do computers dream when they sleep?” that went along with it. In terms of the actual collection, I also loved it. Like I said, it was a great balance of novelty and true designs all of course with a classic Hindmarch twist.

There were Pacman handbags, Minecraft inspired faux fur and a nod to previous collections with the fried egg symbols and the sticker covered shoes. It was all around, a wonderful collection and such a great show, that will be sure to be a big hit next season.

~ ASHISH – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

Gah, I really do love ASHISH but I think this season was lacking in something. I really love the crayon box inspired idea, with each look being top-to-toe one colour, but it just doesn’t feel as dramatic and exciting as usual. I won’t lie, I’d still like to own most of it, but unfortunately (and I am being very subjective here), this isn’t my favourite collection of the season which is rare for me and ASHISH. It’s a bold move though, with everything being so simple, and for that, I applaud Gupta.

~ BURBERRY – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

With the news of Burberry becoming one of the first brands to transition from the usual fashion week schedule of see now, buy later, it’s interesting to see what’s in store next. What I think is interesting, is that every look is quite different. There is of course the overall theme of masculinity mixing with femininity, slouchy seventies etc… but I would say that usually with Burberry, you can spot out pieces in different variations.

Perhaps this is to do with the change… with people needing things that are totally new. One big thing you can spot is texture; there are sequins and heavily embroidered garments. It is different, but it’s still very Burberry and I’m sure it will be a big hit to those people who get to have a chance at pre-ordering their favourites.

~ HOLLY FULTON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

Another designer who always sticks to her routers, showing a definite signature style throughout is Holly Fulton. Although inspired mainly by David Inshaw’s painting “The Badminton Game”, I can still feel those space age style themes running throughout in a slightly mechanical style… whether that’s just my eyes, I don’t know, but I like it nonetheless.

Intricate, folksy style prints across wide A-line pieces are mixed in with organza creates a lot of drama and activity to a collection that could have been a lot more basic. I love the muted pink tones (I’m a big fan of them right now) so that small addition definitely wins me over.

~ HOUSE OF HOLLAND – RATING: 8/10 ~

A meet in the middle of seventies and twenties inspired pieces, I think I’m starting to fall back in love with HOH. There’s flapper inspired sequin dresses (you know how I love sequins, but really, does anyone do them better than ASHISH? Actually, maybe they can this season…?!) and laid back fits in the form of loose jumpsuits and oversized robe style jackets.

There’s also a hint to the ‘space’ trend that has already started popping up all over (we saw it with Versace’s men’s collection). I would say it’s a nice nod to the late, great, David Bowie, but that was only a small portion of his career so we should take note of that. I think this collection is one of my favourite HOH collections for a long while now.

~ MARY KATRANTZOU – RATING: 8/10 ~

I sort of fell out of love with Katrantzou over the past two seasons but I think this one has won me back, surprisingly. Although there are strong, western cowboy themes throughout, all I can think of when I look at each look is; disco. It’s a party collection at heart and that’s proven by the flashy metallics and bold star prints.

Of course the shirt dresses were a big focus, and they will most definitely be an inspiration for the high street, there’s a lot of other things to be looking out for too… like the faux fur coats which is super interesting to see Mary focusing on, especially in such a bold manner. It really works though and I LOVE it. It’s such a fun collection, that you can still class as beautiful and ethereal, just like last season.

~ MOLLY GODDARD – RATING: 8/10 ~

I love seeing what Molly has to offer because it’s always so genuine and you can tell that so much love and genuine creativity is put into her work. It’s also love to see such a diverse casting of models too… it’s just refreshing. Everything she does is refreshing and I love that.

If I were to personally put a pin into what the collection is to me… it’s a bit like the 2010 version of Alice In Wonderland. It’s dark, mysterious but still playful and girly. There’s bright pastel tones in the form of puffy dresses, but there’s still the full, deep textures and darker shades. It’s a really lovely collection and I’m still totally obsessed with her signature style.

~ MULBERRY – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I feel as if this collection will cause some form of controversy regarding the heritage of Mulberry and its previous collections because as you can see, it’s definitely something new… but is that really a problem? In my opinion, no. I think it’s really refreshing to see something new from such a brand, no matter what we’re used to.

It’s still sleek and streamlined and there are still nods to the shapes that we’re used to, but it feels lighter and I love that. I also love the shoes – I think that’s one thing I’ve noticed across the whole of LFW – AW16 is going to be a good season for footwear.

~ RICHARD MALONE (Fashion East) – RATING: 8/10 ~

Malone is definitely a designer to keep your eyes on. I’ve mentioned many times before but I love streamlined collections that are simple with not too much fuss, yet they still pack a punch, and this is definitely one of them. I absolutely love the use of stripes and shapes. It’s almost nautical, especially with the different shades of blue and the bright yellow breaking things up. I really do love it, and I’ll definitely be looking more into his work.

~ TOPSHOP UNIQUE – RATING: 8/10 ~

With Topshop comes a very similar colour palette to what we saw over with Holly Fulton. Dreamy, woodland colours (and prints) with a strong balance of monochrome at the same time. It’s deep, it’s dark, it’s mysterious and it definitely pulls you in… and dare I say it, a few of those dresses could be classed as sexy. It’s a strong collection and it shows that Topshop are finally finding their UNIQUE feet.

~ VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – RATING: 7/10 ~

When I was watching the show, my first thought was “It’s a marmite collection – you either love it, or you hate it”, so when the Style.com review says that too… well, then I guess that’s exactly how to put it. It’s a classic Westwood collection once again, but that’s nothing new. Every Vivienne Westwood show has classic pieces that you can pick out in each line up.

The shows are rare for that because although you can obviously pick out similarities, it always ends up looking so different with such a different feel. There’s the classic neck lines, there’s the outerwear that hasn’t aged a day and there’s the draping… but it’s all new.

Personally I believe there are nods to the cyber world, a bit like Anya Hindmarch, but then I might just be picking up on similar prints and patterns. It all adds up though… every small detail goes towards the next season as a whole, so I’m sure this collection will influence it.

What did you think of London Fashion Week AW16? Are you excited about what’s in store? Let me know in the comments!

Today I have another interview for you (not a Pen to Paper one unfortunately but this might even be a little better!), which is with the wonderful and talented Daniel Lismore of SORAPOL. I’ve been in contact with Daniel for a while now so it’s an honour to have him answer some of my questions in such fabulous detail. If you’re not sure who Daniel is and what he’s been up to, there’s a short little bio below… (Images courtesy of SCAD) 

At what age did you start to experiment with fashion and self-expression, and why do you think you were interested in it?

When I was a kid, my parents were antiques dealers. So looking at all of the historical paintings and things that they were bringing in, as a kid, it really made me think a lot. Star Wars and Star Trek also really inspired me; I loved the uniforms and the aliens and how chic they looked in a sci-fi way.

I was about 16 when I started to wear make-up (my mum’s orange make-up) and started to grow my hair. I used to wear ‘Swear’ shoes (they were big platform boots that looked like boats), so my idea was then to look like a Hollywood alien as that’s what I was being inspired by at the time.

I had braided hair with florescent green plastic sticking out of it. That’s when it first started, I’d say around 16. I then started going to some goth concerts, and I started to go partying in the town that I’m from, underage… that’s when I started to really change how I looked.

Can you name any specific artists that influence you?

I’m constantly inspired by different cultures from all over the world, not necessarily by one artist in particular. But there are artists like LaChapelle, Bjork, Picasso, Dalí, Warhol, who have all created their own kind of thing, and I’ve always admired that in an artist.

I’ve travelled a lot around the world and I’ve been so inspired by the Maasai and all of these tribes that I’ve seen. Also tribes that I haven’t seen; there’s a tribe in Papa New Guinea where they all go out and go to the ‘Sing-Sing’ and all the men dress up in feathers of rare birds and loads of make-up. They make really crazy outfits and they inspire me more than anyone, I think.

You currently have an exhibition called, “Be Yourself, Everyone Else is Taken” open at the Savannah College of Art & Design, over in the US. How did that come about?

I wrote an idea out for an exhibition, and a week later a friend of mine called me up and said, “Would you like to exhibit your clothes?” so obviously I said “Yes, here are my ideas.” and he said “Yes, of course.” His name was Rafael Gomes and he was at Vivienne Westwood for about ten years.

He kind of understood what I do; he’s seen me grow a lot and interacted with me at (Viveinne) Westwood at certain times while I’ve been working on Climate Revolution. So all of a sudden he was at my mother’s house. We went to the storage and we spent days and days in the cold going through my archives.

Then he came to London, this is after packing everything up, around 3,000 items. We had to write everything out by hand, it was a nightmare! Then we sent everything to America and he came to the SORAPOL studio in Hackney (London), where we went through the archives of everything I’d worn and been a part of, so we sent those pieces and then I went to my wardrobe in London and sent nearly everything that I have, so I have no clothes to wear right now.

When we got there (Savannah College of Art & Design or SCAD), we opened all the boxes and I put everything in colour, texture and shape. That’s how I create an outfit usually… and I used lots of safety pins; more or less the whole exhibition was safety pinned together. For me it was more real, because that’s how I reuse my clothes; I buy a piece of fabric that I love, I have it forever and I can wear it in a million different ways.

I love what you said about your extraordinary personal style… “People are going to stare anyway, so I think I may as well give them something to stare at.” …how did you get to that stage in self-confidence?

I’ve always been stared at, ever since I was young. I remember getting on a bus one day and never even knowing about men dressing as women or whatever, or men wearing make-up and this man was like “Oh hello young lady, you can get on the bus before me”, and I was like, what the hell?

So, people have always reacted to me in a particular way. I’m in Dubai at the moment and they’re not sure… “Is that a man or a woman, we’re not sure?” They’re going to look at me because I’m 6ft 4” and at the moment my hair’s down to my waist. So I love to give them a reason, if they’re going to stare at me, you may as well give them a reason.

Really, I don’t think I’m that confident. I was a model for years and I struggled with an eating disorder (bulimia) and that really didn’t make me any more confident, and I think it held me down for a while but I got over it. Later on, wearing masks, I realised, give a man a mask and he’ll be himself (it’s an Oscar Wilde quote), so if you wear a mask, you can kind of do anything you want. That really helped build up my confidence, weirdly.

The make-up aspect also helps because you can change your character. I don’t do that all the time but sometimes I add a bit more to me… I get inspired by someone like Johnny Depp or something, and it comes into my character and I go out for the night in that character, but usually I don’t do that; usually it’s just myself.

I don’t think I’m that confident. The armour helps.

You were recently working with H&M on their sustainable fashion campaign (Close The Loop) – What are your honest opinions on what the high street is doing about these issues? How big is the problem?

To be frankly honest, when H&M came to me and said “Would you do a campaign?” I thought, yes, and then they said about recycling and I was like, hold on, how can H&M promote recycling? Then I thought about it and I realised that they’ve got such a massive voice, that anything that can help or even promote, I think I should be a part of so I said yes to it, even though they mass produce everything.

It was like music to my ears, it’s something that I care about and it’s also good for me as a brand. I do think it’s a huge problem, mass consumption is a massive problem that we all face and it’s going to effect the environment and our families of the future.

If we stop buying so much, we can really make a difference, especially if we buy wisely or buy things that we can reuse. I reuse my fabrics, I wear something around my waist and then I wear it on my head and I wear things that aren’t conventional (not everyone’s going to do that but that’s how I solve those problems) … I’m not sure how we’re going to do that but the fact that Chanel is doing recycling right now, is a good sign.

So hopefully the industries will start to turn it into a trend and progress with it. I’m not really sure how but if they all start to recycle a bit more; it’s going to help.

What’s one thing you think needs to change within the industry as somebody who networks within different areas?

There’s a lot that should change, it actually is changing and it’s changing so fast that no one knows how to deal with it. I remember a few years ago, ‘blogger’ was a swearword. I was a blogger. At the same time Bryanboy and FaceHunter were starting, I was blogging… and I was seen as a blogger and it was kind of not a good thing to do, but then it all changed, so that’s one thing.

We just need to go with it.
The whole industry needs to be reinvented because nothing works. There are systems in place which hold people back. Sometimes the top people in the industry are hired from outside of the industry and they really don’t know what’s going on.

Obviously it’s about business at the end of the day so I believe that there should be more help for young designers and businesses in the fashion industry, and think we all need to start supporting each other even though we’re competing against each other.

I’m not sure to be honest, it’s a really tricky thing. A lot of designers at the moment are going bankrupt or are going to work with other people because they can’t continue and this is because the buyers are buying pre-collections and they’re not going to Paris and they’re not going to these trade shows. It’s kind of failing.

Big designers are closing shops. Huge designers; American designers, English designers… the best that we have, are kind of disappearing, and years ago everyone was all for helping the new designers and making everything better but I think it’s just because of the economy… and we have to move with it, but I’m not sure how.

But then on the other side, there’s couture.

At SORAPOL, we were told to do Ready-To-Wear, and then all of a sudden we decided it wasn’t working for us because the system wasn’t working for us. So we decided to stay with couture which we’re good at and we know we can sell (and we do sell) … and now we’re moving from London, the most creative city in the world (most of our inspiration comes from there) and it’s the cultural hub of the world… but the problem is, that the establishment (and I’m not scared to say it) are not helping young designers.

We’ve only been around for four years and I understand that no one would want to help us too much because we’re quite young but there are other people around who are failing miserably and they’re so more talented than anyone else on schedule.

We did our show in Brewer Street car park, and they laughed at us, but then all of a sudden that’s where London Fashion Week is. I went to book the car park and they said “London Fashion Week has it” and I’m like… what? So, that’s how it lies in London.

We’re moving to Paris, hopefully we’re going to do well. We’ve had lots of support from Paris already. VOGUE has said they’ll do us a dinner. There’s more support in Paris than there is in London for young designers.

So, the industry really needs to reassess itself, I think. I’m speaking as an outsider and an insider; as someone who’s worked in most parts, whether it be a stylist, or photographer, or model, or a designer or someone who’s worked with make-up or worked with trends or has consulted for companies. I’ve seen a lot and read a lot… of course I don’t know if I’m always right but, I think that’s the way things need to go.

It needs a whole shake-up. I think people will come out of it shining, others will just disappear because they’re talentless but that’s just my opinion.

Thank you so much for the wonderful answers! Truly insightful.

What are your thoughts on these topics? Let me know in the comments!

As I mentioned in this post, I want to start really talking with you guys about different topics especially on the line of being yourself and confidence. I asked you guys whether you had any questions (not necessarily directly about being yourself) and an interesting one I received was about ‘ART & Film’. Seeing as these sorts of things can be a huge influence on personal style and fashion in general, I definitely had to give a go at answering it! I’m mainly going to focus on film in this one, but if you’d like to see me delve more into ART, let me know! (Images via Tumblr)

❓ How do you incorporate ART & film into what you wear? ❓

~ THE ROYAL TENENBAUMS ~

(1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6)

Films and fashion go together in a really funny way, because it’s not all about the clothes. If it was all simply about the clothes, catwalk shows would simply just be a selection of models walking down a runway with no make-up, no specifically tousled hair and no music to keep in time with their footsteps.

Fashion is all about the whole feel and mood of everything, from step one (of waking up in the morning) to step one hundred (taking your shoes off at the door)… there’s so much in between that adds up to our personal style each day, and films are a great way to look at it all like that.

I hate to say the word because it’s probably rather over-used nowadays but certain films come with a certain aesthetic which set the tone for the costumes, make-up and hair and overall the fashion. 

So of course, a great place to start is the wonderful array of Wes Anderson films we have to watch. My personal favourite (out of the ones I’ve so far managed to watch) is The Royal Tenenbaums because of Gwyneth Paltrow’s character.

My sister says that Margot reminds her of me (?!) but in one way that’s kind of cool because of her awesome outfit choices. Margot’s me when I’m moody. She wears simple pieces but she has to top it off with something extra, usually in the form of a fur coat.

So you’re probably wondering? How do I actually incorporate the vibes and general tone of The Royal Tenenbaums and it all comes with? By taking certain elements subconsciously and channeling them into my outfits… like collars and muted tones; faux fur and flat shoes. I don’t necessarily have to seek out to end up looking exactly like Margot Tenenbaum… it just sort of happens organically whenever a picture shows up or I end up re-watching the film.

~ GOD HELP THE GIRL ~

(1&2 // 3 // 4 // 5&6)

However, there are times when I do purposely seek out to recreate a character. The thing with fashion and dressing is the fact that you can transform into whoever you want to be, and sometimes I just really feel like channeling the ways of Eve from God Help The Girl. I mean, that leopard print and stripe combination? It has me written all over it.

There’s actually a really nice clip in this movie of the character, Cassie, doing her make-up in the style of Aladdin Sane (David Bowie), but then she ends up scrubbing it all off, and I think that’s a nice way of summing up how it’s okay to recreate styles and personalities from what we see on TV/social media, but it’s also okay to try and do your own thing, even if that person truly inspires you.

So although I have sometimes felt like being Eve, there’s always that Tolly touch to things and I don’t think that will ever go away. After all, the question I received was about how I incorporate art and film into my outfits… and I guess that’s exactly what I do.

~ THIS IS IT ~

On the other end of things, there’s also fashion films which are specifically created to add depth to a collection or brand. It’s usually a short video that revolves around a couple of characters at most, with items of clothing on full show, but a strong sense of plot still there.

I’m not going to lie, the main reason I included this specific fashion film is because it includes Alison Brie (from the show Community – my favourite TV show ever… I’ll take any chance I can to promote it (#andamovie!)) but I do genuinely like it.

It’s not necessarily in keeping with my current personal style, but the dreamy lighting and general idea of it really pulls me in and for some reason any ART film that includes roller blades seems to attract people’s attention. It’s actually for the designer jewellery brand Irene Neuwrith and I think it’s a pretty awesomely put together piece.

How do you incorporate ART & film into what you wear? Let me know in the comments!

I don’t usually talk about menswear, mainly because I’m more focused on the womenswear side of fashion (partly because I find it a lot more interesting and broad, but also because well… I’m a (young) woman), but for today I thought I’d do a review of the latest AW16 menswear collections that are coming from the catwalks. I know that the season for menswear is yet to finish, but I wanted to get a post up before the rest of the fashion season starts coming in. (All images are via VOGUE.co.uk)

~ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

For me, reviewing menswear is slightly more difficult to do in terms of looking at the background and inspirations, perhaps because each collection is usually more simple and tailoring based, which is quite different to womenswear (even on the high street you can see examples of this – there’s a lot more variety in shape and size rather than style and colour), so I’m sorry if I’m rather subjective in this. But Alexander McQueen‘s collection was a nice balance. There’s texture, print, embroidery and applique yet it’s still a smart and sleek base of suits.

I think all over prints in a men’s collection is always interesting and I have to say, I really like how it’s been done for this season. Although the colours are monochromatic (A/W… what can you expect?), the butterflies and florals break it up slightly and add that more feminine touch without having to go that step further and add brighter shades.

~ BURBERRY – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

First of all can I just talk about the amazing tribute that model, Hayett McCarthy, gave to Bowie? She wrote his name on her hands on her own accord (as the show was on the day the sad news was announced) and opened them up at the end of the catwalk. It was simple, but it was a nice nod to how Bowie was always about breaking the boundaries and doing what you want. There was also hints of glitter splashed across the faces of all the models (Christopher Bailey said that he started with one as a small hint towards Bowie, but the whole line-up ended up with glitter covered eyes).

In terms of the actual collection, it’s a great introduction to what Burberry‘s all about. It’s a mish-mash of every different style and shape, but somehow they come together in a blend and mix that works unexpectedly well. My personal favourite aspects have got be the use of more modern textures like satin and faux-fur… it’s just that subtle nod to something more fresh and new. As 2016 is the year Burberry are housing all of their labels under one roof, it probably makes sense that this collection is almost a ‘catch-up’ selection of designs… a taster menu, if you like.

~ CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN – RATING: 8/10 ~

I’m always interested to see what Raeburn has up his sleeve seeing as his collections are mostly created from re-purposed fabrics (more specifically, the military variety). You’ll also know I always find it interesting when I can spot trends appearing for the upcoming seasons, and I can most definitely see some appearing within this, and other collections. It was simple safe route to be honest, but it had that slight twist to break it apart from the norm. Parkas are most definitely going to be a focus of A/W 16/17 along with sweaters with bold prints (more on that below).

I don’t have much to make note of here, but I thought I would include it because as I mentioned, Raeburn’s use of recycled materials always interests me, especially from a sustainable stand-point.

~ COACH 1941 – RATING: 7/10 ~

70s are still going strong. Late seventies, more specifically, but seventies nonetheless. Coach’s collection is full of it, but in a way of which is probably more palatable than most retro, free-living inspired collections. It’s once again a collection of simplicity, but it has enough to it that you can grab onto. One thing I like about Coach, is how everything the brand does is so put together, whether that’s in terms of design, or whether that’s in terms of branding. It just always slots together effortlessly.

Even if I don’t have much to say about the collection specifically, I can say that they’re still knocking it right on the head. A key note though? – Leather jackets. Cool, simple, leather jackets… even with the addition of shearling. 

~ GUCCI – RATING: 8/10 ~

For me this is basically just an Italian, Gucci-style, interpretation of the seventies. Mix prints, embroidery and texture are always a big hit for me, as well as the catwalk, so I’m expecting some very Gucci inspired pieces to be popping up all over the place when it comes to Autumn time. There was also a lovely Bowie tribute once again, with his name embroidered into a cardigan. Bowie influenced fashion in so many ways, so if a designer gets a chance to honour him in the next week, they 100% should.  (Bowie via Instagram)

~ MOSCHINO – RATING: 9/10 ~

Inspired by artists, Gilbert & George, I love the direction that Jeremy Scott went. I have to admit, for womenswear, the novelty collections are personally starting to wear off, but this was a nice inbetween. It’s loud, it’s bold but due to the dark, deeper colours running throughout, it’s still fit for the A/W season (although I don’t really believe in saving darker colours for the colder months – brighten up the darker days, right?).

Suits and outerwear were of course a key focus… a lot of them designed in an almost collage style with different fabrics splitting up the textures. I’m a big fan, which means Moschino are once again, in my good books.

~ ROBERTO CAVALLI – RATING: 9/10 ~

I think a great way to look at this collection is to hear what Peter Dundas had to say about it (who is the current creative director of Cavalli)…

I love that way of looking at collections as a designer. In my opinion not many designers think this way, which can make collections very stuffy and too focused on a certain outcome… when you step outside of that and just think about what you specifically want for the clothes, you often end up with a just that… a really, brilliant looking range of clothes. 

Of course sending out messages is great too, but sometimes you don’t need that, and this A/W selection from Cavalli is a great example. You can still have a very aesthetically pleasing collection, with a strong focus, without actually thinking too much about it.

~ TOPMAN DESIGN – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

I feel I have said this for every collection, but Topman/Topshop always intrigues me because it’s in that middle spot where it’s actually still fairly affordable which means really we should be keeping a strong eye on what higher end collections they produce. The one word I would use to define this Topman collection would be… loose. It’s full of loose fabrics and fits as well a loose key inspiration. It’s as if a young guy has raided his granddad’s 70s wardrobe and mixed it in with some of his newer pieces.

It’s a mixture, and I think that’s how we might have to define A/W 16. Every collection is slightly different, just with this rough undercurrent of the 70s still flowing through.

~ VERSACE – RATING: 7/10 ~

And this, is why we might have to define A/W 16 as a mixture. Here we have a modern, space vibe that you can put a pin on immediately. It’s metallic, it’s sleek, it’s smooth, it’s bold and slightly sporty. It’s it futuristic though? In many ways, it is, but in many ways, I feel as if the classic Versace style through it off a bit. Or perhaps it’s that undercurrent once again? Versace is a very particular kind of brand… a Marmite brand, but this season definitely caught my eye, which is something new.

I think it might be the metallics… and the badges… but mostly it’s just the metallics (which were also seen in Calvin Klein’s collection – a trend?)

~ VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – RATING: 7/10 ~

Another Bowie tribute, with a Starman remix being played over speakers, here we have Vivienne Westwood’s menswear range. I’m going to be honest and say I’m not 100% sure what “Be Specific” meant (the collection’s name), but either way, I like it…

It’s just a really nice collection. It has it’s smart, fitted, tailoring with it’s more casual fits and relaxed knits. It’s the kind of collection I would one hundred percent want my future partner to wear. Is that sad to think about? Yes. Is this review totally subjective? Yes. Am I going to leave you to admire it on your own, now? Yes.

What do you think about AW16 so far? Are you excited for the upcoming fashion month? Let me know in the comments!

Hello and welcome to my third official post of 2016… okay, calm it Tolly, it’s not a radio introduction… today’s post has been brewing in the back of my mind for a while now, and it’s all about aesthetics and finding that ‘vibe’ that fits you. I feel like I’m currently in a good place with my personal style, which is a big thing for someone my age because we’re always constantly changing along with our personalities. It’s a good thing though – I like having the true freedom to experiment with what I wear… it’s a shame that, that kind of fades away at a certain point. That needs to change!

FOLLOW ME ON TUMBLR

I think my current personal style has started to form through different influences, mainly social media. I know I go on a lot about being yourself (because it’s true, you should be) but I think there’s a big difference between taking inspiration from and plain copying. Taking inspiration from different aspects of life can make a huge change in your wardrobe.

Like I said, for me, social media and places like Tumblr have really being do it. Creating an aesthetic isn’t just about looking at clothes, it’s about creating this whole idea and almost ‘way of life’ of how you want to go about things… so I don’t just look at outfits, I look at text posts, quotes, colour swatches, photograph etc… they all add up to create this broader image of what I’m trying to put across.

If I had to put a label on the aesthetic I’m currently channelling, it would probably be called something like… ‘Pink Peanut Butter’. That sounds really odd, but it basically started off when I discovered Rad.co and they’re stunning and simple collection of sweaters (that sounds sponsored but I honestly swear it is 100% not), one of them being a plain yellow number with the embroidered words of ‘Peanut Butter’ (scroll down to take a peep).

If I had to give a list of things I’m loving it would probably go a little something like this…

SHOP: 1 // 2

In terms of my recent purchases and how I’ve actually been channeling these vibes into my personal style, I picked up this rather ‘peanut butter’ style sweatshirt from Pull & Bear which has a tasteful slogan, 70s colours and peanut butter colours. I can’t wait to style it up throughout the year, even layering it for the warmer days so it becomes more of a slouchy throw-over (you can see a snippet of it over on my Instagram)… but as I mentioned above, I’m in love with Rad.co and I am eagerly awaiting the day when they start shipping worldwide… *daydreams*

I didn’t want to write a full post about it because I just want the news to sit with me for a bit, but of course I have acknowledged our tragic loss of the inspirational legend that is David Bowie. I wrote a tiny snippet over on Facebook as to why I’m not making a full piece, so I hope you understand. He made a big impact in my life and I will forever be honoured that I was alive at the same time he was. So thank you, David Bowie, please go and be as free as that bluebird.

As you will have gathered over the past few months on this blog, I’m a huge advocate for second-hand shopping. Ever since I picked up a turquoise floral dress from a charity shop when I was about seven, I’ve been in love with the idea of recycling clothes and keeping them in the world for longer, because, why not? When I found out about the Traid #SecondHandFirst week, I knew I had to write up a little something-something to share…

SECOND-HAND OUTFITS: 1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5 // 6

The point of this week (23rd – 29th November 2015) is to raise awareness of the power of second-hand shopping. It’s a chance to get more people on board with the idea and let people know that it’s more than just old dirty clothes in a dingy little charity shop – it’s a chance to recycle clothes that are perfectly usable and stop them from ending up on landfill sites. Traid want as many people as they can to make a pledge to source their wardrobe with second-hand clothing, whether that’s vintage, hand-me-downs, charity shop donated or re-vamped one-offs.

~ TAKE THE PLEDGE ~ FOLLOW @TRAID ~

I’ve commited to sourcing 50% of wardrobe second-hand, just like Susie Lau (Style Bubble) and I’m sure, many other people. You don’t need to commit as much as that (you can commit more if you like!) but setting yourself a little target can really make you more motivated to becoming a savvy shopper – thinking more about being ethical and sustainable, rather than being splurgey and spendy. The outfits in the first image are all outfits featuring second-hand items so yes, you can still be stylish and shop second-hand. We just need to all start proving it!

How much of your wardrobe will you commit to sourcing second-hand? Have you already taken the pledge? Let me know your thoughts on second-hand shopping in the comments!

P.S If you’re in the UK on Saturday November 28th, please pick up a copy of The Telegraph Magazine as there maybe a little feature of my Mooi en Lief by TDP collection in it! Eeep! 🎅🎄

Whilst reviewing and watching over London Fashion Week SS16, I realised that the industry has a lot to learn. I don’t mean in terms of design; I think that’s rather subjective and you can’t really say what’s wrong or right (more, I like that, I don’t like that). I mean more in terms of the actual selling of the shows; things like the atmosphere and the models. So when I watched the ASHISH SS16 show, I felt truly inspired. (Images via VOGUE.co.uk)

~ WATCH THE SS16 ASHISH SHOW ~

If you look at the majority of shows, they’re usually just standard presentations or catwalk displays. I’m not saying I’m uniterested because the clothes do most of the talking but there is just something lacking from it all. The main disappointment really is the whole model issue.

Seeing 30 or more white, slim and slender models walk down a catwalk in a line with blank faces and a ghostly walk, really does put you off sometimes. I often feel like you see the word ‘aesthetic’ thrown around when it comes to this topic but I don’t believe that is quite a good enough excuse. Okay if you want your model line-up to look like a symmetrical army it might work but where is the realism?

This is where I believe ASHISH get it spot on; they have fun with there shows and they make things look more alive in such an attractive way. I know that not all design houses would send their models down the catwalk on skateboards but why doesn’t anyone else really go for it?

I’m sure there are many examples of fun and diverse shows (in fact, I was watching Alexa Chung’s VOGUE series and Body Map was mentioned but that was back in the 80s) ASHISH just seems to stand out season after season.

Speaking of diverse shows; diversity plays a big role in the importance of ASHISH in the industry. Their model line-up is always diverse in terms of racial acceptance, and even genders with men and women strutting their stuff to be accepting of the unisex trend. It’s just SO refreshing and it really does just wake you up when you see it in action. You realise that what we are seeing in magazines or on the runways is just. not. enough.

I will be honest and say I’d love for ASHISH to go one step further next season and cast models of all different shapes and sizes to broaden the diversity, because that would be the cherry on top. But on the whole, I don’t see many other designers making such a big mark on the industry.

Plus, the SS16 show was incredible. It was collection full of such a beautiful mess that just shouted out loud “I DON’T CARE!”. It was a collection for anyone and everyone to express themselves in, which sums it all up really. That my friends, is why ASHISH play a big role in bringing diversity to fashion.

What are your thoughts on the topic? What do you think of ASHISH SS16? Let me know in the comments!