Ethical

I recently had the chance to attend what is called an ‘evidence hearing’ at the Victoria & Albert Museum in South Kensington, London, as part of the UK Parliament’s Environmental Audit Committee‘s inquiry into sustainable fashion. This is actually an incredibly exciting time, as the inquiry may go onto help aid the Government to ensure we are starting to create a newer, more environmentally conscious fashion industry.

  LOCATION:
Victoria & Albert Museum
London

I had the opportunity to sit down with Mary Creagh, an MP (Member of Parliament) and the Chair of the Environmental Audit Committee, which is the group responsible for considering how the Government is doing in terms of environmental protection and sustainable development in the UK. The committee was behind securing the recent ban on microbeads in cosmetics products and hopefully, with the sustainable fashion inquiry, they will go on to do much more.

I know that a lot of people will be new to the concept of a parliamentary inquiry – trust me, I am too! – so, I want to discuss what it all means, as well as some takeaways from the evidence session itself. Some of those giving evidence at the hearing included Eco-Age founder, Livia Firth; journalist and writer, Lucy Siegle; the Sustainability & Innovation Director of Stella McCartney, Claire Bergkamp, and the Director and Professor of Fashion Design for Sustainability, Dilys Wiliams.

There were two clear take-aways for me, not only from the evidence session that I attended but also from the initial session which I watched on live stream (both of which you can watch here). Firstly, it’s that, as Dilys Williams so rightly said, the system and the model of fast-fashion are broken. There is no way in which we can continue producing and consuming at the same rate that we are, in a sustainable manner – this goes for the UK and elsewhere.

The Ellen McArthur foundation states that textile production uses around 93 million cubic metres of water and an estimated 1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions, per year, which is more than flights and maritime shipping combined. And in the UK specifically, the consumption of clothing itself is rapidly rising, alongside disposal rates, with 350,000 tonnes of clothes being discarded to landfill, according to WRAP.

In terms of statistics, these are all numbers that a lot of us have already considered or educated ourselves on but there’s more to it than that. In the first evidence hearing, a common theme regarding the initial design process of our clothing arose and it was brought up again at the V&A with fashion designer, Phoebe English, speaking on the panel. She reminded us of the large amounts of waste created before a garment even gets on the shop floor. After describing the pattern cutting process, Phoebe said, “There is waste from every single garment on the high street. Where is that waste going?”.

There are many different elements to the conversation and that’s the second takeaway that became very apparent; what recommendations does a committee put forward to a Government, when there are so many angles and specific issues to focus on? There is no one set solution to creating a sustainable fashion industry. Even when we say the system is broken and creating a new one seems like the only answer, a new system will always come with its challenges, too.

For example, a circular fashion industry could work in theory but only if you’re also looking at circularity in a social sense, as Dilys Williams suggested. A circular economy is a regenerative system which thrives on reuse, remanufacturing, repairing and recycling but we can’t transform the fashion industry into a closed-loop system unless the consumer mindset shifts dramatically, and that is a great feat we face.

One of the suggestions relating to the idea of circularity, once again came from Professor Dilys Williams – perhaps a recommendation to the Government could come in the form of reduced VAT on repair services, which as Graeme Raeburn (one half of the Christopher Raeburn duo) pointed out is something that has already been executed in Sweden.

Although we may not be at a point in time where the general public has learned how to darn socks and tailor trousers, if we allow services for these repairs to become more accessible, it could cause a shift in how we appreciate clothing and in turn, create an environmental shift, too.

Along with circularity, the Scottish Government has already started in this direction with the ‘Make Things Last‘ strategy which has trialled large-scale reuse and repair hubs.

Myself and Mary Creagh, MP at the Victoria & Albert Museum, Fashioned from Nature exhibition

The complexity of the issues at hand go as far as advertising and how fast-fashion actually affects us all psychologically. If fast-fashion and unsustainably produced textiles are as destructive to ourselves and the environment as products that we see on the shelves of supermarkets, with labels to warn us of toxic ingredients that could potentially cause us bodily harm, is it time that legislation is put in place in order to make consumers more aware of what they’re really buying into? Is it time that we are shown the true cost of a £5 t-shirt before we reach the checkout, bringing back what Lucy Siegle called a ‘pause for thought before buying‘ that’s been stripped away with such fast consumption habits?

As I now personally have a large understanding of many of the issues raised at the evidence hearing, it’s been clear to me that the system is broken for quite some time now, but it’s even clearer that we are in dire need of answering a pivotal question, which was once again raised by Professor Dilys Williams…

Do we want to keep the current industry or do we want to live within planetary boundaries? 

If you want to learn more about the Environmental Audit Committee and the ‘Sustainability of the fashion industry inquiry‘, take a look at the Parliament website. Follow the committee on Twitter @CommonsEAC and voice your thoughts with #EACFixingFashion.

If I was solely responsible for the decline of print magazines, it would be because I no longer find inspiration within the pages of a standard fashion issue. I am unfulfilled by the endless full-page advertisements and the glorification of trends and mindless shopping. So, how do I feel when a well-known, mainstream publication, focuses its infamous September Issue on sustainability?

~ BUY THE ISSUE HERE ~

By now, you’ve probably seen the beautiful blue and polka-dot cover – featuring Slick Woods – of ELLE UK’s September 2018 issue splattered all over Instagram. It seems to be a major first not only for ELLE specifically but for a good chunk of everyday fashion magazines you’ll find on your local newsstand.

From afar, it looks like any other issue of the magazine with its glossy plastic covering and it’s headline about ‘power boots’ being the latest trend, but inside, the paper has been produced from 100% recycled waste and 49 pages in, you will find an editor’s letter from Annie-Marie Curtis with the phrase “It’s better to buy less and buy well” – a phrase which I find excitingly refreshing when the majority of sustainable fashion content often revolves around the latter half of her statement (I’ve been guilty of this in the past, too).

Overall, excluding the advertisements which almost feel ill-placed (see: the spotlight interview with Stella McCartney sandwiched between two River Island promotions), the whole issue feels refreshing and with that, you might skip to thinking they couldn’t have done a better job.

There’s an editorial which highlights the team behind Fashion Revolution; Wilson Oryema is part of the guest editors list and a couple of the photoshoots feature vintage pieces, meaning they act more as style inspiration than a call-out for people to get shopping.

Quite honestly, I don’t have much to complain about or pick holes in. It’s what I would expect from a fashion magazine focusing on a topic which is much broader and larger than a single issue will ever be able to cover.

Perhaps that is the only problem, here? Perhaps the limitations of how mainstream media works, is what will always stop it from truly making an impact.

Once you look a little closer, it’s still a magazine playing it relatively safe. There are still phrases and attitudes being used which many ethically-focused brands and ‘greenfluencers’ – a term I recently shuddered at after being given the label – will try stead-fast to avoid.

Take the piece about animal prints, which suggest “You need one, don’t you?” when talking about a £2,495 coat from Victoria Beckham. Sustainability isn’t about needing or necessity, especially not listening to somebody else telling you what that is.

The prices and brands mentioned are another cause for concern; this September Issue further indulges the idea that sustainable fashion can only be done when you have hundreds of pounds to spare when in actual fact, sustainable fashion can be done with almost no money in the bank – you just have to stop shopping and start embracing what you already own. That’s still fashion.

I wish Stella McCartney’s quote – “I wasn’t given money by my mum and dad, so I always shopped vintage at charity shops. And damn it, I felt cooler for doing that.” – had been emblazoned across her feature in a big bold typeface. That’s my experience of having a sustainable wardrobe, too.

Speaking once again of Stella McCartney’s piece within the issue, one of the images from her Autumn/Winter 2017 campaign that depicts a model laying across a heap of waste in a Scottish landfill, is squashed into the corner of the page.

Most people who are well into their sustainable journey will tell you that seeing the harsh truths and gritty imagery is what made their mindset towards their clothes shift, so, why does it take up so little space?

Similarly, although there is a mention of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse in 2013, there are no images. After all, a picture speaks a thousand words but most of the pictures used in the magazine could be found in any other issue.

The reality of fashion and the impact it has on the world isn’t pretty, so, surely a sustainability issue should depict that in some way or another? We need balance and I believe that’s what ELLE may have missed out on, this time around.

It begs the question – will this always be the case for mainstream media, for as long as over-consumption and the mindset of disposable purchases, exists? Can we really rely on major publications to discuss these topics when luxury handbag spreads and discount offers still take up more space than the important issues the magazine is supposed to be highlighting?

I know the answer may seem simple; of course, this is how magazines work. The only way to get a magazine on a newsstand is to sell enough advertising spaces to afford the print run and all of the work which gets put into.

You could argue that it will create a demand for more sustainable practices if brands know that the publication has these sorts of expectations of them and that readers will now be more aware of what’s going on behind closed doors, but I’m unsure whether one issue out of a whole years’ worth has the power to do that.

Most likely, advertisers would start to turn their backs on a publication house if its magazines started suggesting that its readers stop shopping and when they do, start visiting their local Oxfam instead. But, how long are we going to feel comfortable with this reasoning for not going the extra mile?

In my dream edition of ELLE’s Sustainability Issue, there would have been images from the Rana Plaza disaster or dye-polluted rivers running from denim factories in China. There would have been more of an emphasis on re-wearing and being comfortable in what you already own (Pandora Sykes briefly touched on this, although it was from a specific and very unique perspective that the everyday reader may not be able to relate to).

And there would have been features for brands which won’t always break the bank, such as People Tree and Know The Origin who are two of the UK’s sustainability stars.

I am happy that the issue was published, and I believe it is an inspiring start. I can only hope that recycled paper is used in all the upcoming issues (the feel of it reminded me of the old Hearst print, COMPANY magazine) and that ELLE and other magazines follow in VOGUE Australia’s footsteps by putting some great minds and experts, like Clare Press, in the driver’s seat of their sustainable efforts.

As I recently said in an interview for i-D – nobody is perfect, but we really do need to embrace the small steps, and fortunately, this issue of ELLE is 306 small steps (or pages), in the right direction.

Did you read the issue? What did you make of it? Let me know in the comments!

If you recall, I started off 2018 with a post all about hypocrisy and being honest about what I could be doing better sustainability-wise. I admitted that even though I advocate for using less single-use plastic, I was still using single-use plastic period products every month even though I knew of other alternatives. Fortunately for those of you looking to make the switch, I have since explored the realm of sustainable period products and I’m ready to review some of our options…

~ LET’S TALK ABOUT PERIODS ~

Firstly though, I want to begin by talking about period poverty. I don’t want to jump straight into talking about sustainable alternatives for something that some people struggle to afford regularly, especially in the UK.

According to research by Plan International, 1 in 10 girls in the UK have been unable to afford sanitary products and according to a study completed by Always, we now know that over 137,700 children have missed school due to period poverty, specifically.

Period poverty is a huge issue globally and it becomes even more complicated to face when you add the taboo of periods into the picture. So, before I talk about sustainable alternatives which ultimately, can be more expensive to invest in initially, I want to highlight campaigns and charities which are helping aid women, girls and period-having people who can’t afford even the most basic sanitary products because all of us deserve to experience our periods in a comfortable and hygienic manner…

Free Periods // Bloody Good Period // Always #EndPeriodPoverty

~ FACTS & FIGURES ~

For those of you who are fortunate enough to afford more sustainable alternatives or are interested in making the change in the future, I’m here to help! It’s important to understand why making the change is all so important though, so, let’s start with some facts and figures.

Over 3.9 million sanitary products are flushed down the toilet every day in the UK and that’s not including what is left to go to landfill. That figure is scary enough in itself without taking into account that most of these sanitary products are made from either plastic or harmfully bleached and treated cotton, which as we all know, is neither beneficial to the planet or our bodies. Click here to read more about the harmful materials often found in period products – it might shock you.

As we should all know by now, the phrase ‘throw away’ is essentially meaningless seeing as there is no ‘away’; everything always ends up somewhere and that somewhere is our planet.

For me, with just about everything now, I would rather know that I’m doing my part to avoid the negative impact of that at all costs, especially if it helps me avoid any affects to my health at the same time.

That’s why I made the switch and why I believe, if you are able to, you should too. There are many different options to choose from and below, I’m going to highlight my three personal favourites…

You may notice that I haven’t included any internal-use sanitary products within this guide – that’s simply because I don’t personally use them and I wouldn’t be able to provide an honest review. However, I have linked some products which some of you may be interested in, at the end of the post.

~ COTTON PERIOD BRIEFS* – THINX UNDERWEAR ~

Trust me, I was a sceptic over reusable period underwear. Ever since I started having periods, I’d always used sanitary towels (and dabbled in tampons but never quite found they worked for me) and relied on the ability to strip away what I was wearing and refresh when it felt fit, so, the idea of not doing that throughout the day made me feel a little uncertain and honestly, a little uncomfortable.

However, I am now a changed woman. Admittedly whilst writing this, I am only half-way into my first day of wearing the Thinx Cotton Briefs (funnily enough, reviewing period products means waiting a few weeks even though you already own them; who would have thought?) but it’s safe to say, I am happily surprised by how good they make me feel.

With sanitary pads, I find myself readjusting and fidgeting all day because I’m concerned about where my flow is really going (we’ve all been there, right?), so, this makes a care-free change.

Thinx is one of the leading brands for this sustainable option and I’m really happy that they recently introduced organic cotton underwear not only because I want to avoid plastic materials as much as possible but also because breathability is a big Must when it comes to ‘down there’.

Although unfortunately there isn’t too much information about their ethics and factory, I believe that it’s important to embrace an option of sustainable sanitary wear that avoids throw-away plastics and unnecessary waste, especially in such a comfortable way. I’m already contemplating adding more to my underwear drawer…

~ REUSABLE SANITARY TOWELS – BLOOM & NORA ~

Before I tried out reusable period underwear, I was starting to balance out my single-use period products with reusable versions and once again, I was pleasantly surprised by how easy they were to adjust to.

If you’re used to ‘ordinary’ pads and sanitary towels, then I would think turning to a reusable option would be a fairly smooth transition.

I own the Bloom & Nora reusable sanitary towels but there are many different options on the market. What makes their sanitary towels slightly different though is that they’re partly composed of bamboo fleece.

I would say that reusable sanitary towels of the clip-on variety are a nice way to bridge the gap between wearable period underwear and traditional options and they are, fortunately, really quite easy to wash and maintain (I own two and have managed my period fairly easily by hand washing them in turn).

Now that I’ve had a taste of what Thinx has to offer, the movement and fidgeting that I experience with these is now even more noticeable but that may just be caused by the size of my underwear and the size of the pad.

If you’re looking for a quick fix and want to dip your toes into the reusable, washable and all round, far more sustainable period product water, then I highly suggest reusable sanitary towels if you can’t quite make the leap into a fully wearable option.

~ ORGANIC BIODEGRADABLE SANITARY PRODUCTS – NATRACARE* ~

Trust me, if the idea of reusable sanitary products doesn’t quite float your boat, I understand. Fortunately, there are single-use options out there which aren’t quite as toxic and damaging as the rest. Before I purchased any reusable items, I was trying out organic options where I could. I am actually really surprised by the growing selection found in supermarkets these days!

In all honesty, I still have a big selection of plastic based period products stocked up and in my opinion, it’s best to use them up rather than ‘throw them away’ wastefully. But when I’m through with them and I am still in need of products for in-between days and for when all of my reusable sanitary towels and pants are in the wash, brands like Natracare are what I will look to.

For a lot of us, the week or few days of bleeding that we experience aren’t the only days when we need some added underwear protection and luckily, Natracare offer products for those days too.

Natracare is great as all of their products are completely plastic free, from the actual products – whether they be sanitary towels, tampons or liners – to the packaging.

The organic element means you’re avoiding any nasty chemicals coming into contact with your skin or entering your body (as well as avoiding harmful pollution further down the line).

~ SEARCH “@tollydollyposh” UNDER GIFS TO ADD THIS STICKER TO YOUR INSTAGRAM STORY ~

Fun GIF right? If your period is becoming more sustainable each month, then feel free to proudly embrace that all over social media. It’s time we break the taboo around periods and talk about them more openly. We all need to become more comfortable with them, whether we experience them or not.

Other options for sustainable period products include the likes of menstrual cups, which are a perfect option for those of you who prefer internal sanitary products to keep your period neat, tidy and manageable.

There are also new products on the market such as the DAME, which is a reusable tampon applicator so you can avoid using throw-away plastic but continue to use tampons comfortably. I’ve linked some options below…

DAME Reusable Tampon Applicator // OrganiCup // OHNE Organic Tampons 

What do you use to make your period more sustainable? Suggest your favourite products in the comments!

(This post is not sponsored or paid for but it does include gifted products from THINX and Natracare. All thoughts and opinions are my own. You can read my full PR disclaimer here.)

Let’s be honest here – caring about the planet, whether you are a content creator or an everyday citizen, can be massively overwhelming…

WHAT I WORE: Dress (Jumble sale) // Neven Low Sneakers (YATAY)* // Snake Necklaces (DIY) // Double Pandan Hair Sticks (SAYA)* 

Becoming more familiar with the harsh realities of the world, has at times, taken its toll on me. It’s especially overpowering when you realise almost every part of your life has a sustainable impact and that the only ways of combatting that could be going off the grid, becoming a naturist and only ever eating the food you grow yourself. Ideal for some; unrealistic for a lot of us.

Even if you aren’t massively into sustainability or learning about the environment or how your clothes are made, I would expect you have at some point sensed impending doom simply from watching the news or scrolling through your Twitter feed.

In my opinion, it’s not that we necessarily live in the worst era of existence, it’s just that we are more able to be involved and within the conversation surrounding all the negative issues at hand. If it wasn’t for social media or the internet, most of us would have a far poorer understanding of what is going on around the world and how little is being done to change it.

Libraries, books and even newspapers are of course still an incredible offline resource but sadly, unless we’re looking for an extremely specific piece of information from years gone by, scouring through physical pages isn’t always efficient or as up-to-speed enough in this day and age.

However, as I say, digital-learning comes with a downside. I can be hard to switch off from the world and not become intensely emotionally involved with the stories and the information we read. That’s not to say that we shouldn’t be – I thrive off of having access to such important educational materials (and I’m very grateful for that) – but, I can’t deny that it can be upsetting and stressful at times.

In a piece by The Daily Campus, this issue is discussed in more detail, highlighting the impact activism (whether it be online or offline) can have on your mental health. Although the piece is specifically targetted towards those fighting the good fight after the 2016 US election, the advice within the piece still rings true for other matters, too.

Below, I’ve compiled a list of my own advice, in order to soften the blow of issues which might be as close to your heart as they are to mine, whether it be climate change, pollution, exploitation, capitalism or everything else in-between. You might even want to bookmark and revisit this page when you’ve had a good read of the rest of my blog. I’d understand…

~ WHO MADE MY HAIR STICKS? ~
SHOP SAYA

Wayan and Yudi who are two young men originally from Java (East Indonesia) and came to Bali for work as wood carvers. They take SAYA‘s drawings to create prototypes by hand using simple tools and techniques. SAYA pre-selects recycled root wood material from suppliers in Bali and have it delivered to Wayan and Yudi’s family houses and workspaces which is where they continue the detailed process of carving, sanding and polishing our pieces to a high-quality standard.

Have an online escape platform…

I use most of my social media platforms as ways to communicate with like-minded, intelligent and informative people. I unfollow people who don’t engage me how I’d like to be engaged with and I follow accounts that post about relevant topics or from perspectives I might not be as familiar with. I’ll always promote the idea of using your platforms and your audiences for good but I would highly recommend also having an escape from that.

For me, my digital escape-road is Tumblr. I use it for what might be classed as my ‘guilty pleasures’, such as my favourite TV shows, aesthetically pleasing imagery and for talking to people who are detached from the world of sustainable activism. It’s refreshing and allows me to have that slice of the internet that, for the most part, will keep my stress levels (or even levels of fear) to a minimum.

Read books…

With social media, I’d say there is fast-becoming this pressure to respond to absolutely every piece of news that enters our content stream. I know that I can feel guilty for not covering every topic or cause for concern but it’s important to understand that we all have our own battles to fight and we don’t have to be a spokesperson 24/7. We don’t have to tweet our condolences or our thoughts of concern if we know that there is a much larger issue at hand that cannot be solved in 280 characters.

That’s when books come in to play because it allows me to continue educating myself without that pressure or feeling of needing to join in the conversation publicly. There are no reply or share buttons on book pages (at least not physical paper books) which means we can keep our thoughts to ourselves or save them for later when we feel we might want to share them. It can help you digest the information in your own time rather than rush to try and process it for everybody else.

The book featured in this post is a collection of consumption-themed poems by Wilson Oryema, which I originally featured in my illustrated wishlist. I highly recommend this, especially for anyone on a gift hunt for a consciously-minded friend!

Don’t be too hard on yourself…

I always take a big sigh of relief when I see somebody who I presumed was almost perfect (whether that be in terms of living sustainably or having an Instagrammable life), being honest and open about how they’re not. I’d like to say that my blog is a space for embracing that; I’m nowhere near being the best example of a sustainable activist (plastic and waste feel impossible to avoid) and hopefully, you all know that.

Evolving and adapting takes time, in no matter what context. So, remind yourself that even when somebody looks like they’ve got it down, they’re probably still working on it and improving as each day goes on.

Share the burden…

I’m not going to go back on what I said about digesting information on our own terms but I will say that sometimes we need to share and discuss things in order to make an issue seem less daunting to face. It’s one reason why I love Instagram Stories because I find my audience easily engages with questions and discussions I raise.

It’s like sharing a burden; often talking about what’s on your mind is the best medicine and hearing other people understand where you’re coming from can help you move forward. And who knows? Maybe you’ll learn something that will aid you in tackling the problem at hand more easily.

Try hands-on experience…

This year, I attended my first in-person activist event in the form of a Women’s March in Florence, Italy. Taking into account your mental state and giving yourself a break is vital, however, after experiencing group activism first hand, I realised that there is a huge difference between typing and doing. 

Proudly walking the streets with hundreds of other people, chanting and singing, can make you feel a lot less alone and a lot more empowered than creating and engaging in content online. It’s reenergizing in itself and it opens your eyes to how many other people are truly behind the issue, as well. If you have the opportunity to get out and contribute to a cause in person, I can’t recommend it enough.

How do you put your activist mind to rest? Let me know in the comments…

(This post is sponsored by and in collaboration with SAYA. All opinions are mine. Read my full PR disclaimer here.)

The past couple of weeks have been a bit of a blur (and a whirlwind, thanks to the huge honour of being able to take over the @instagram account), so I want to apologise for the lack of Fashion Revolution content, I’ve just been one busy bee! To ease you all back in and hopefully make up for my absence, I gathered some of your questions about ethical and sustainable fashion (send me a DM on Instagram! I might be able to help). Let’s crack on with the 3rd edition of my Q&A series, shall we?

WHAT I WORE: Sustainable Denim Jacket (G-STAR RAW)* // Floral Dress (John Lewis – very old) // Recycled Denim Choker (Yours Again)* // Bamboo Sunglasses (Bambooka)* // Socks (Birdsong London) // 1460 Pascal Boots (Dr Martens)

Where are your favourite places to shop second-hand?

For me, I love charity shops. I’m fortunate that I have a wide selection to choose from, especially in the UK. Most towns are littered with them which means you can spend full days just browsing the rails.

I understand it’s different elsewhere though, like how in France there aren’t many charity shops yet there are dozens upon dozens of jumble sales most days of the week.

I’d say if you’re struggling to find local shops or sales then one of the most current and popular ways of shopping similarly, would be using Depop (or even eBay). It saves the time and effort of having to wade through piles of clothes too, seeing as you can search for exactly what you’re looking for.

This leads me to my next question…

How do I find my style in consignment or second-hand stores? 

One thing I’ve learned over many, many years of second-hand shopping, is that you have a lot more room for experimenting. Seeing as there is very rarely more than one of an item, it gives you the chance to really scope out styles you might not have reached for in the past.

When you embrace that experimental side of it, finding pieces which align with your style will become a lot easier as you’ll know what you’re more open to.

For me, I now know not to pay much attention to sizing because I know I can wear clothes oversized or I can even upcycle and adjust them. That already opens up so much more potential because instead of only looking at one end of a rail, I’ll end up looking at every item in a store (you know, apart from shoes because sadly, my feet don’t quite agree with ignoring sizes).

How do you balance wanting to show new clothes on your blog, with ethical shopping?

You may notice that I don’t post as many outfit shoots as I used to on my blog anymore (unless they’re within a post like this!), partly because I don’t find them very fulfilling and partly because of this exact dilemma.

Understandably, people don’t necessarily want to see the same thing being styled over and over (although, it can be done; I did a series a couple of years back called Changing with The Seasons where I did just that), and I don’t think this has anything to do with fast fashion or over-consumption, specifically.

It doesn’t matter what it is – repetition can become boring, right? Especially when it’s online and it’s constantly in front of you. So, it’s not very often that you see people posting the same outfits or the same combination of items.

The reality is though, clothes are made to be worn more than once (at least, they should be), which means, we all need to try really hard to translate that into what we post online (especially as bloggers).

I know there are plenty of arguments as to why it’s easier said than done (full-time bloggers often make a living from promoting new items, regularly), and even I have to remind myself to do it. It sends a message, even if people don’t notice it consciously.

I suppose another reason for your question could be to do with actually shopping ethically and being able to promote and show off my sustainable-wears. I’m fairly open and honest about this; for the most part, I shop second-hand (it’s one of the most sustainable ways to shop, after all) or every now and then, I collaborate with brands who send me items to style and review, which means I’m not adding items to my wardrobe very often.

I do my bit by lifting up brands in other forms of promotion and again, try my best to spread the message that wearing items more than once is totally acceptable.

My readers actually end up falling a little bit in love with what I do wear repeatedly, too! My yellow jacket and the killer sunglasses I’m wearing a lot at the moment are a great example.

Does ‘ethical fashion’ refer to how the clothes are made or does it go further into how the material is sourced etc?

I discussed the definition of ethical and sustainable fashion, here, if you want to understand things a little more clearly. However, you raise a great point about how far those definitions can go. As I state in that post, I believe the definitions are fairly subjective, so I’ll give you my own personal opinion.

For me – ethical fashion refers to every detail, from the moment the design is conceived to the moment it ends its life in somebody’s wardrobe. Unfortunately, it can be very hard to know how an item of clothing has been produced from start to finish, even if it’s coming from a brand that labels itself as ethical. There are brands that are exceptionally transparent about how they go about their work but sadly, they’re few and far between.

How do I get out of buying fast fashion trends and start making a more reusable wardrobe?

I haven’t personally done this myself because I’ve never been particularly interested in trends but I believe it could be a good way to start and perhaps, challenge yourself a little – try to shop your own wardrobe for a while. Whether it’s for a week, a couple, a month or even two, go without buying anything new and style your outfits with what you have.

Not only will you avoid buying into new trends and fading styles, you’ll be forced to reuse what you have and work out what works for you! Plus, all of this becomes easier once you prioritise ethics and sustainability because you know what’s more worthwhile.

Why is leather unsustainable? Is it because of cow farming and the process of producing it?

Just like fur, leather is one of those topics that goes off in many different directions. In some ways, leather can definitely be seen as sustainable because it’s a durable material and it biodegrades due to it being natural.

However, as your question suggests, unfortunately, the production process of leather is usually quite the opposite. Not only is there the ethical dilemma of leather, there are other problems to take into consideration.

Mass-farming is known for being unsustainable (and yes, leather does play a part in this as it is either sourced from food manufacturing or independently) but it doesn’t stop just there. Leather is commonly dyed and tanned using harmful chemical processes which contribute to pollution, especially within water systems. I highly recommend watching River Blue, for more on this.

Faux-leather isn’t much better either, seeing as the majority of it is produced using synthetic plastics which obviously, don’t have the biodegradable element of natural leather. So, if you see the term ‘vegan’ applied to a pair of shoes, perhaps ask yourself what that actually means for the environment, too.

I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again; if you want to shop leather guilt-free, buy it second-hand or from a brand which can guarantee that they’re sourcing responsibly from waste-leather and cut-offs.

You won’t necessarily contribute to any further leather manufacturing but you’ll still be able to experience the durability of the fabric.

Have another question for me to answer? Leave one in the comments! Perhaps I’ll answer it in a future post…

Fashion Revolution Week is in its 5th year, raising awareness for issues within the fashion industry and creating change. The campaign falls on the week of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse which occurred in 2013 causing over 1,000 easily preventable deaths. Learn more about how to take part, here.

Fashion Revolution Week kicks off in a weeks time so as a quick reminder as to what the week is all about and ways that you can get involved, I thought I would compile a list of facts and figures that will refresh your ethical fashion knowledge! Or, not so ethical fashion knowledge, as you’ll soon see…

1. Only 20% of global textiles are recycled…

The other 80% of are either incinerated (releasing harmful chemicals into the atmosphere) or sent to landfill, to break down and release those same harmful chemicals and toxins, into the earth. That’s an extraordinary amount of harmful waste. (via Worn Again)

Clothing waste is, of course, a huge part of that. Out of collected clothing (from recycling banks, or the like), the majority is either resold (click here for why that might not be as good as it sounds) or it’s downcycled to create products like rags or stuffing for furniture. This continues the lifecycle of fabrics but it still creates yet another inevitably disposable item which will most likely end up once again, in a landfill.

2. Most of us only regularly wear 40% of our clothes…

According to Oxfam, not only do we leave 60% of our clothes hanging in our wardrobe, we also only wear an average of 16 items once. Of course, this isn’t the most daunting statistic, however, it does shine a light on our consumption habits.

On a similar note, I wrote a piece on whether having fewer clothes makes your wardrobe more sustainable, and why a sustainable wardrobe has a lot more to do with how you dispose and care for your clothes than you think.

3. Dyeing textiles is the cause of 20% of water pollution…

Changing Market’s Dirty Fashion report revealed this statistic, and it is known that denim production is one of the worst offenders. I would highly recommend watching the documentary, River Blue, for more on this subject, including some positive innovations which are being put in place to reduce the fashion industry’s impact on the world’s water systems.

4. £1.37 is the price of a living wage…

A £25.32 priced t-shirt would increase to just £26.69 if the garment workers producing it were to be paid a living wage. This is a miniscule increase, one of which the average consumer wouldn’t bat an eyelid to.

This fact and figure was taken from Fashion Revolution’s first fanzine, however, if you want a more in-depth look into garment worker wages, the best place to look is their Garment Worker Diaries report, which breaks down wages and living conditions across eastern Asia.

5. Your gym gear could take 200 years to decompose…

Another Fashion Revolution fanzine fact – A Lycra two-piece designed for sportswear could take anywhere from 20 to 200 years to decompose and break down in a landfill, compared to natural fabrics which can take only weeks.

Fabrics are important to consider whenever you’re shopping, whether it’s second-hand or new. Although it is understandable why people often opt for synthetics for durability purposes, natural fabrics will generally always be the better option whether it’s for the planet or for your body.

Did you learn something new? What’s a fact I might not know? Let me know in the comments!

Don’t forget that you can share your support for Fashion Revolution by using my collection of GIF stickers on Instagram Story! Want to know how to use them? Click here!

The snow has melted, I’m packing my coat just in case and I’m slowly cutting down on thick layers, all of which can only mean one thing; it’s the beginning of the sunglasses season.

WHAT I WORE: Denim Jacket (G-STAR RAW)* // Super Crop Top (ASOS – Old) // Recycled Denim Choker (Yours Again)* // Carleen Anderson Special Edition Sunglasses £25.00 (Bambooka)*

Although I may not be too up-to-speed with the latest trends (who needs them, right?), it’s fairly clear from a quick look on Instagram that a sharp, killer pair of sunglasses is what a lot of us are pining for right now.

I even picked up on this last summer, when I found a blue-lensed vintage pair in a charity shop (see them styled here) and wore them almost every day until their eventual death (the sound of my foot accidentally crunching on the glass still haunts me).

Since then, I’ve been on the hunt, contemplating whether to just screw my morals and buy a cheap plastic pair or to wait around until I find something more sustainable.

What I didn’t expect to be so drawn to, was a pair made of a natural material – bamboo. Bambooka is the brand behind this striking pair of special edition glasses, inspired by the American singer, Carleen Anderson.

Recently, I’ve been thinking a lot about plastic, especially in the many forms in which it works its way into our lives. Not only did these thoughts come from my obvious interest in sustainability but it also came from a documentary I recently watched on Netflix – A Plastic Ocean – which delved into the issues, from how it affects our seas to how even marked-as-safe items like baby bottles, can actually still be extremely harmful.

This led me to thinking about my sunglasses and the fact that every single pair I own – excluding my new Bambooka addition – are made of plastic. Most of us don’t have a real grasp on how that plastic is produced and even more so, how it eventually affects us. I’m unaware of what it’s doing to my body as it sits against my delicate skin in temperatures of up to 40 degrees (104f), in the heat of European summers.

Very simply, wearing a pair made of a natural material, which are equally as stylish as any other I own, just seems like the better, more obvious choice.

Bamboo is sustainable in many ways; it doesn’t require irrigation, it doesn’t need replanting and it can be grown without pesticides or fertilisers, but when it comes to Bambooka specifically, they’re more than just that – they’re also a non-profit brand, supporting charities such as Vision Aid (who are fighting poverty and providing eye care to those in need) and PEPE who help ordinary people in South Africa escape poverty.

So – in answer to the question you never asked but have always been subconsciously curious about; can sunglasses be sustainable and stylish? Yes. Absolutely. And they can do good for others at the same time. 

What do you think of bamboo sunglasses? Would you ever buy a pair? Let me know in the comments!

(This post was sponsored by Bambooka, however, all thoughts and opinions are mine. Read my full PR disclaimer here.)

Let’s talk denim, whether that’s in the form of fabric, a dress, a jacket or most commonly, a pair of jeans. It’s a fabric found in the majority of our wardrobes yet like with most of our clothes, we know little about how its made or what that can mean for the environment.

WHAT I WORE: D-Staq Deconstructed Denim Jacket £150.00 (G-STAR RAW)* // Mom Jeans (Pull & Bear – Old) // White Blouse (Stradivarius – Old) // Reina Upcycled Rubber Handbag  (Paguro Upcycle)* // Dr Martens (Jumble Sale)

Originally, denim was produced for workwear, designed to be practical, durable and to age naturally over years of consistent wearing. It’s been almost 150 years since denim was first introduced to the world and since then, the manufacturing process and the styles of denim available to individual wearers have changed extraordinarily. 

Denim isn’t built for hard-working use anymore, it’s produced in styles which are seemingly pointless (see: Vetements infamous ‘zipper butt jeans’) and it’s being sold in different shapes and sizes for just £10 on the high-street.

In the US, 96% of consumers own at least one pair of denim jeans, with the average number of pairs found in women’s wardrobes women being 7 per person – and that’s just jeans alone.

As with the rest of the fashion industry, ethics and sustainability have been abandoned for low prices, higher profit and an endless supply of choice for consumers. The biggest victim of denim? The world’s rivers and water systems. 

With documentaries such as River Blue allowing us to open our eyes to the damaging side-effects of denim production, we’re more easily able to comprehend the consequences of this mass-produced, highly appreciated fabric.

The reason that denim plays such a big part in the pollution of water isn’t just down to our constant love and addiction to the stuff. It’s down to the toxic process of creating it and using indigo dying processes. 

Enter G-STAR RAW (who answered questions throughout this post) – a brand you may already be familiar with and may never have assumed were thinking sustainably. Admittedly, I tend to stay far away from big name brands when discussing these sorts of issues in a positive light, mainly to avoid what is usually, inevitable greenwashing. However, when I heard the news that G-STAR RAW was producing the “Most Sustainable Jeans Ever” it was hard to step away. 

Now that I own the Deconstructed Denim Jacket from the range, it’s safe to say that I’m fairly impressed, especially due to the fact that the new sustainable range is Cradle to Cradle Certified, which if you read my post on Cradle to Cradle recently, you’ll understand is a substantial feat and certification for a brand to withhold.

The collection being Cradle to Cradle certified means that it is 98% recyclable as well as being technically biodegradable seeing as the denim is also produced with Organic cotton. The dying process uses 70% less chemicals than your average denim dying process which means that if the fabric were to eventually break down, less toxins would be released into the earth, along with less toxins being released into water systems in the first place.

But the potential and positives of this collection don’t just stop there, as G-STAR RAW have committed to keeping this eco-friendly denim production process as open source, meaning that the rest of the denim and fashion industry can take from it as they wish and apply it elsewhere.

Although I don’t want to necessarily jump to agreeing with G-STAR that this is the “Most Sustainable Denim Ever” – vintage and second-hand denim is possibly the most sustainable option if you want to invest in it – I do truly appreciate what they’re doing in terms of starting to implement these ideals and ways of manufacturing across the board. 

The more brands that step up to the plate and put their best foot forward in certain areas, the more effective change we will see occurring, even more so when it’s collaborative and is all with the intention of cleaning up the industry’s act.

The jacket is now one of my favourite’s style wise, which doesn’t hurt either.

You can learn more about G-STAR RAW’s new sustainable range here.

What do you think of the collection? Do you own any G-STAR denim? Let me know in the comments!

(This post is not sponsored. I was gifted a denim jacket from G-STAR RAW but was not obligied to review the collection. You can read my full PR disclaimer here.)

If you follow me on Instagram or Twitter you may already be aware that one of the latest books on my reading list has been Cradle to Cradle: Re-Making the Way We Make Things. Now that I’ve completed it, I’ve decided to round it up in the form of a review, to add to the growing collection you can find on my blog.

Cradle to Cradle: Re-Making the Way We Make Things

So, what is Cradle to Cradle?

For those of you who aren’t already familiar with the phrase and are reading it as something related to sleep-training for babies rather than something related to sustainability, let me clear it up for you.

Cradle to Cradle is the concept of giving an item or a product an endless life cycle, going from one new idea and concept to the next new idea and concept, continuously. As the book suggests, we live in a time where for the most part, almost everything we own is designed and produced within a “Cradle to Grave” framework or is only being used for a finite period of time.

The phrase is often used in conjunction with the term ‘circular’ which implies exactly what it says on the tin – a circularly produced product is one which is designed to go in and out of a new lifecycle.

A very basic example of this is the idea of a plastic bottle being used and recycled in order to produce another, new, plastic bottle. In theory, the original plastic bottle is recycled and reproduced continuously without ever having to dispose of the original materials, which when it comes to plastic is essentially impossible to do without consequences.

The book doesn’t specifically focus on one industry or one aspect of the Cradle to Cradle formula; on one page you’ll learn about the production of recycled paper and how it isn’t necessarily the most eco-friendly option and on the next, you’ll be mulling over sustainably produced carpeting.

But that doesn’t mean that Cradle to Cradle can’t be applied to fashion or our clothing, in fact, soon on my blog, I will be discovering G-STAR RAW’S most sustainable denim ever (check back in the near future). The denim is Cradle to Cradle certified meaning it is 98% recyclable and can be turned into something new once the wearer is ready to pass it on (which for me, could quite possibly be in decades).

I actually appreciated the fact that the book didn’t solely focus on one certain industry though because often when it comes to sustainability and ethics, a lot of knowledge and information can be applied to other sectors and across the board as a whole. In educating myself about issues within the fashion industry, I now know a lot more about other parts of life and am aware of it constantly.

One area that the book did stick to covering though was the topic of nature and how we use and abuse the environment when it comes to producing and consuming.

Although a lot of the ideas and commentaries may be a step too far in certain ways (at least for those of us who aren’t able to dedicate our lives solely to environmentalism, just yet), it definitely got me thinking more about how, we, as a human race, work for and against everything around us.

There are a lot of ways in which what we use every day can affect the environment without us even realising. For example, take the rubber sole of a pair of Dr Martens. Looking past the unsustainable production of the shoes themselves, they’re a great looking, sturdy pair of boots for walking across all types of terrain in sun and in the snow.

However, have you ever stopped to think about what that rubber is doing when it gradually wears down and breaks away from the sole? Have you ever stopped to think about the effect particles of rubber have when they end up between grass and soil? I hadn’t either until the book raised a similar thought.

Producing products which continue to live rather than head straight to the grave, means understanding every consequence and result of its production and existence on the earth. It seems like heavy stuff but the ideas that this way of thinking opens us up to are actually fairly simple-sounding.

Why is that we wear toxic chemicals on the bottoms of our shoes instead of wearing materials that actually benefit the ground we walk on? Imagine sneakers that wear down and provide food for the earth.

Even when it comes to ‘conscious consumerism’ and attempting to be more sustainable citizens of the world, words like ‘better’ and ‘trying’ are thrown around without us realising what that says about us. Are we really saying that all we can do is better than what we’ve already been doing? Why can’t we be doing the best?

Although this book does examine and criticize a lot of what surrounds us and shows how a lot of the ways we try to be ‘better’ might not be better after all – take clothing made out of recycled plastic bottles for instance; it might seem like a safer option but the fibers from plastic bottles were never designed to lie against our delicate skin (Page 58) -, it brings a sense of hope along with it, which is why it ended up being a rather enjoyable, motivational read.

Within the book, there are examples of projects that both Cradle to Cradle founders, Michael Braungart and William McDonough, participated in over the years, far before the real alarm bells of current times started ringing.

So, it is possible that this mindset of closing the loop on industries and making sure what is put out, gets put back in, can work and work successfully. It just takes time and exactly that – changing the mindset; creating a necessary and radical shift.

A large reoccurring theme within the book is one surrounding collaboration and it’s a subject I hope to talk more about when I delve deeper into G-STAR RAW’s denim…

The fashion industry, in particular, is such a closed off, elitist industry, even down to who is allowed to sit where on the front row of each catwalk, so the idea of collaboration further than one which ties two brands together on a label, is almost an abstract one, even more so if one brand or voice is far more dedicated to environmental or ethical issues. But the truth is, we need strong, knowledgeable voices to lead the way for those of who hold the most power, even if they don’t align perfectly.

The book’s title might be “Re-Making the Way We Make Things” but I can assure you it also makes you Re-Think a lot too. It’s definitely another one to add to the ethical education bookshelf (which you can now find on Goodreads – thank me later).

Have you read this book? Do you have any other book recommendations? Let me know in the comments…

As much as algorithms seem to be driving a lot of the Instagram community up the wall recently – yes, we all know, it was a far better place when posts appeared chronologically – for me personally, it’s actually fast becoming one of my favourite platforms for a multitude of reasons. So today, to mix things up from my usual content, I thought I would share some ways to enjoy ‘IG’ as much as I am as well as a few recommendations of who you should be following…

 @CELINECELINES (SLOW FACTORY) // @EZRA_W_SMITH // @BEHAVEBANDANA // @STORIESBEHINDTHINGS // @UNWRINKLING // @OCEANGENERATION

Your vibe attracts your tribe…

Especially when you’re introducing yourself to sustainability and ethics, you can become bogged down in the nitty-gritty of it all and often what you really need is a nice, healthy dosage of positivity! 

Following individuals on Instagram who spread positive messages about good work being done is a quick and easy way of educating yourself without feeling like the world is facing impending doom. 

@unwrinkling (also known as Whitney Bauck) is one of my favourite Instagram users. Her day job is focusing on sustainability with her journalistic work so she merges the two, highlighting new initiatives and innovations whilst still being relatable and sharing imagery which would be fit on any other Insta-page. She introduced me to G-STAR RAW’s latest work and for that, I am very grateful.

@storiesbehindthings is an account run by Jemma and Ella who focus mainly on vintage fashion and opening up discussions with their followers about different sustainable and ethical topics. If you’re into perfectly coordinated themes and being introduced to new brands; definitely give them a follow.

@celinecelines (Céline Semaan) is the founder of The Slow Factory and is one inspiring woman. Not only does she head-up The Slow Factory #FashionActivism brand, she is also a sustainable advocate all round, being an ambassador for the Global Fashion Exchange and founding The Library. She’s a joy to follow and you all need to learn more about her.

@KNOWTHEORIGIN // @PO_ZU // @GOODNEWSLONDON // @GSTARRAW

Learn more about where your clothes come from…

In my opinion, you can trust a brand when they’re openly transparent and by that I mean, more than just sharing their list of suppliers on an interactive map.

A lot of ethically focused brands will share behind the scenes information and stories about where their clothes come from and how they were made, especially on social media. Even if you haven’t ever bought from the brand, it’s one way to understand how what you wear, becomes just that. You end up getting the answer to “Who made my clothes?” before you’ve even asked it. 

@knowtheorigin‘s Instagram is a great example of this. They often share information about their travels to their garment factories as well as videos and photos to go alongside it. Know The Origin was essentially built around the idea of transparency so they’re a good place to start if you want to follow a t-shirt from factory to finished product.

@po_zu will forever be a favourite in my mind especially if you like behind the scenes of the photoshoot variety.

Don’t forget, if you want to discover more ethical brands (even if you just want to browse their Instagram feed), my brand directory is a great place to start.

FASHION REVOLUTION X TOLLY DOLLY POSH GIFS

Saving and GIFing…

Other than following, you can also use Instagram in a variety of other ways to gain inspiration and spread the ethical message further than just your own mobile device.

Saving photos to your Saved Collections can help you decipher the sorts of styles and outfits you’re into. This allows you to work out what looks you’re still appreciating after you’ve double-tapped to give a post a like and scrolled on.

This will help the next time you’re in the mood for shopping or the next time you’re on the hunt for something new, as you’ll be able to work out more easily what might last for a long time in your wardrobe. To save a post (without anyone knowing, don’t worry) click the bookmark flag under a picture.

Making use of Instagram’s new GIPHY GIF feature is something I would advise too. Was this just an excuse to plug my stickers again? I hear you cry? Possibly, possibly. Searching terms such as ‘ethical fashion’ or ‘@tollydollyposh‘ when you’re picking something out for your next Instagram Story, is always a good call.

I can also now announce that I’ve designed a few GIFs for the wonderful @fash_rev, some of which you can see above. I’ll also be releasing a few more in the lead up to Fashion Revolution Week in April, so watch out.

Make sure to give me a follow @tollydollyposh, if you haven’t already.

How do you use Instagram for sustainable inspiration? Who should I be following? Let me know in the comments!