Tolly Dolly Posh

This is my third piece dedicated to focusing on the UK Parliament’s inquiry into the sustainability of the fashion industry. This piece focuses on how the Government has responded to the final report, put forward in February 2019. You can read my initial piece and interview with Mary Creagh MP here, and the second follow-up, here.

The Government’s response to the Fixing Fashion report can be read in full, here.

On May 1st 2019, UK Parliament approved a motion to declare a climate emergency. Now, not long after, we have a response from the Government when it comes to the fashion industry’s crucial role in it. This response clarifies the Government’s position on different key recommendations from the Environmental Audit Committee, including those of which I covered in my most recent post covering the inquiry.

In line with my opinions in that post, I’m going to run through each response from the Government and explain what is actually being done to make the fashion industry more sustainable in the UK.

However, it’s important to note (not only with fashion-based climate-related issues), that in the UK, we export a huge amount of our manufacturing overseas. This means that our contribution to pollution, carbon emissions and social issues can often look like they are reduced (or are reducing) due to the fact that statistics and numbers, often refer to those contributions made solely in the UK, rather than what we contribute to elsewhere, globally.

Protest in support of the Bangladesh Accord, January 2019

Made in the UK should mean workers are being paid fairly…
Work in progress.

In response to evidence suggesting that garment workers based in the UK directly are not receiving the National Minimum Wage, the Government states that with increased budgets, more is being done to ensure the minimum wage is being enforced, and that it’s recommended that textile retailers sign up to the likes of the Global Framework Agreement.

The Global Framework Agreement is in place to protect the interests of workers across multinational companies, ensuring the best standards of ‘trade union rights, health, safety and environmental practices, and quality of work principles across a company’s global operations’.

Retailers failing to report and comply with the Modern Slavery Act should be faced with a penalty…
No recommendations adopted.

In the response, it’s said that the Transparency in Supply Chains (TISC) provision in the Modern Slavery Act has led to thousands of businesses publishing statements in regards to how they are addressing slavery in their global supply chains.

The Government “agrees that greater transparency is essential to tackle modern slavery” and that they are “committed to improving business compliance with the Act”, however, this recommendation will not be adopted. 

The Government should ban incinerating or landfilling unsold stock that can be reused or recycled…
Recommendation rejected.

Although the Government agrees that recycling and reusing unsold stock should be prioritised, it doesn’t believe that placing a ban on incineration or landfill is the way to move forward, despite the financial and environmental impacts and the imbalanced proportion of energy produced when unsold stock is incinerated.

In my own personal opinion, I am unsure as to why this has been rejected and isn’t being explored further. The Government say they want to focus on ‘positive approaches’ yet I see nothing negative in this recommended ban.

GIF originally featured in a post about embroidery for #MAKESMTHNG Week

Lessons on designing, creating, mending and repairing clothes should be taught in schools…
There is scope.

This section of the Government’s response focuses on the current curriculum and how there is already room for these topics to be approached within schools, whether it be in Key Stage 3 (age 11-14) geography that “covers how human and physical processes interact to influence and change landscapes, environments and the climate” or whether it be in the design and technology curriculum.

An Extended Producer Responsibility scheme for companies that take positive action to reduce waste, should be introduced…
Not accepted.

Under the Resources and Waste Strategy, which aims to set out how we preserve natural resources by reducing waste and moving towards a more circular economy, a commitment has been made to review and consult on “measures such as EPR [Extended Producer Responsibility] and product standards for five new waste streams by 2025, with two these to be completed by 2022″.

With the UK announcing a commitment to reducing emissions to net-zero by 2050, it’s concerning to me that approaching the issue of waste and overproduction could take us into 2025, with what seems to be little urgency.

The Government should reduce VAT on repair services…
Not accepted.

Although in other responses it’s been suggested that the focus should be on reuse and recycling, when it comes to repairs, reducing VAT on repair services is unlikely to happen, due to the fact that VAT funds the Government’s spending on priorities such as education, health and defence. The Government claims that not enough evidence has been found that supports Sweden being used as a prime example in the original inquiry.

Extinction Rebellion at Oxford Circus, London, in April 2019.

Other thoughts…

Some of the language used and statements made within the response were in some ways, rather contradictory. Although the Government “recognise how crucial it is for the environmental and social impacts [of the fashion industry] to be well managed, particularly in this era of fast fashion”, in the next breath, it also suggests that “the industry has the primary role to play in achieving change, helped by consumer behaviour”, almost entirely ignoring the fact that fast-fashion is a double-edged sword when it comes to consumption.

Yes, the industry thrives off our demand for more and how we vote with our money but that demand is only maintained by the fast-fashion industry’s role in the normalisation of over-consumption. Within the inquiry, fast-fashion brands openly disclosed the selling of ‘loss leaders’ (products which are sold simply for the sake of driving site traffic and which are produced at a loss for the company). Just look at one controversial example in recent times, with Missguided selling a £1 bikini made from synthetic materials.

This addictive nature to fast-fashion will only ever be strictly controlled if regulations (or penalties) are in place to slow down that consumer demand that we’ve become so accustomed to.

Along this same vein of brand responsibility, the Government praises retailers for “offering in-store take-back and resale clothing collection services”, despite the fact that many of these in-store take-back services are often incentivised with vouchers that once again, keep consumers in a loop of consumption.

I don’t want to have to point it out but there seems to be one common theme here – money. 

The only positive that I can find related to consumer behaviour, is the suggestion of a ‘domestic ecolabel scheme’ that the Government seeks to develop, enabling consumers to be provided with better information when shopping.

In summation, I am disappointed in the Government’s response to the inquiry as I do not believe it aligns itself to the targets which we need to be reaching in order to face the climate crisis head-on or the weight of responsibility that is on us as a country when it comes to fashion as a global industry, whether that be environmentally or socially.

What do you think of the Government’s response (or lack of)? Let me know in the comments…

If you haven’t been keeping up with my Instagram adventures lately, then you won’t be aware that I’ve spent the last couple of weeks across the pond in New England, all in the name of friendship. It just so happens that I took a whole host of pictures along the way, and a good dose of them included some of my new favourite outfits. So, I’ve rounded them up below in the form of a travel style diary…

Not only is this post going to be filled with some of my current favourite outfits but it’s also going to be filled with second-hand purchases. I understand that could be frustrating for anyone looking for style inspiration with clickable and shoppable links but it’s important to highlight how much you can find in a good ol’ charity shop (or thrift store), as well as in your wardrobe with what you own already.

I was conscious of shopping second-hand for my whole trip, whether it be souvenir shopping (thrift stores have so many slogan t-shirts and local sports team merchandise – go Patriots!) or even for my trusty new back-pack which came with me everywhere.

It was the trip of a lifetime for many reasons and I can’t wait to share it with you in outfit form. Scroll away to learn more about each look!

All items marked with an * (asterisk) were previously gifted items.

  LOCATION: Providence, Rhode Island

WHAT I WORE: White Turtleneck Jumper (Charity shop) // Ripped Jeans (New Look – old & upcycled) // Butterfly Hi-Tops (PO-ZU)* // Kånken Backpack (Depop) // Sunglasses (Topshop – old) 

Is it weird for you to see me in jeans? Because it is for me! It’s not a common occurence in my life simply because I’ve never been completely sold on them, despite the world’s demand for a pair in every shape, size and shade of blue. I opted for my upcycled skinny jeans – originally flares – on this trip as out of the two pairs of jeans I own (yes, just two!), this wash of denim matched what I was packing.

Although I definitely overpacked and didn’t end up wearing a large proportion of the outfits in my suitcase, I still packed with versatility in mind – especially for the first couple of days where I was still adjusting, jet-lag wise.

My Depop-discovered Kånken backpack and simple footwear choice combined, this was the ultimate tourist outfit for when I visited Providence and experienced PVDonuts in all their glory (they’re really, really good doughnuts).

  LOCATION: New York City

WHAT I WORE: Vintage Versace Suit (Antibad)* // Super Crop-top (ASOS – old) // Kånken Backpack (Depop) // Sunglasses (Topshop – old)

Even though the hot weather stripped me of this outfit’s overall vibe, I knew when I visited New York for the first time, I wanted to be wearing something special to me. So, I paired my vintage red suit (which you can read all about here) with a weather-appropriate crop-top underneath and hit the streets of the Big Apple, and later on, the 86th floor of the Empire State Building.

This ‘super’ crop-top is one I dug out of my summer clothes after remembering how much I enjoy wearing it. It’s shrunken a little and the slogan is starting to crack but it will forever be a piece in my wardrobe that I wish I had a duplicate of – because yes, I can appreciate the fast-fashion items I still own, for as long as I continue to keep them for.

This is also a good time to take a closer look at my backpack. I knew I wanted something sturdy and durable, as well as something I could use for a laptop bag for when my trip, sadly came to end. Although I’m not entirely reassured by Fjällräven’s stance on ethics and sustainability, I was happy to buy one of their bags second-hand on Depop, for a discount price.

Red is a great colour to be wearing in New York if you’re ever dressing for photographic purposes, especially when you find a giant flag like the one in Grand Central Station.

  LOCATION: New York City

WHAT I WORE: Floral Blouse (ASOS – old) // Kenzo Floral Shorts (Jumble sale) // White Sneakers (YATAY)* // Sunglasses (ASOS – old)

My second day in NYC was an absolute scorcher, so, the red suit came off and was replaced by a mix-and-match floral number with a pair of KENZO shorts I found at a French jumble sale, years ago.

I also wore two more fast-fashion purchases from years gone by, in the form of my floral blouse from ASOS Africa (now known as ASOS Made in Kenya, I believe) and a pair of statement sunglasses. It felt like a pretty perfect combination, especially when a cooling rain shower sprinkled over Washington Square Park – ah, take me back!

My YATAY sneakers held up exceptionally well despite all the walking and subway taking, too, and I’ve yet to feel the urge to swap out the hemp laces they originally came with.

  LOCATION: Newport, Rhode Island

WHAT I WORE: White Ruffle Blouse (Vintage Kilo Sale) // Carhartt Dungarees (Depop) // Butterfly Hi-Tops (PO-ZU)* // Kånken Backpack (Depop) // Boston Red Sox Cap (Charity shop) // Titties Tote Bag (Eat Mielies)

This is definitely my favourite look from my trip (hence why it’s getting two sections to this post), as well as a current favourite overall. It’s worth mentioning that the Boston Red Sox cap that has yet to leave my head (despite the fact I’m home), was thrifted on the day I visited Newport, from a charity shop tucked around the corner of a back street.

As aforementioned, I managed to thrift some of my souvenirs, which isn’t something I’ve done before but is definitely something I plan to do again in the future. As well as my Red Sox cap, I also picked up a New England Patriot’s t-shirt with a holographic logo on it, and a rather obnoxious USA top which made my friend’s family laugh – I promise if you ever see me wearing it, it will be for ironic purposes. 

My dungarees are making their first proper blog debut here, too. These also barely leave my body and were the best investment purchase I’ve ever made for my wardrobe. Thank you, Mickey of Netflix’s LOVE, for making me want a pair of my own.

In other recent second-hand shopping news, I discovered this dream of a blouse at the Vintage Kilo Sale when it was in town recently, and it’s another purchase I have 0 regrets over. Although, it’s a fairly simple shirt in principle (and definitely at least 3 sizes too big), the ruffled collar and cuffs elevate an outfit instantaneously.

There’s also something super satisfying about the combination of crisp white ruffles against a tough, workwear one-piece with gold hardware. Sometimes it’s the unexpected pairings that work best – even more so when you add on a cap for a sport you’ve never seen played.

  LOCATION: East Greenwich, Rhode Island

WHAT I WORE: Yellow Blouse (Charity shop) // Floaty Maxi Dress (ASOS – old) // Ripped Jeans (New Look – old) // Butterfly Hi-Tops (PO-ZU)* // Kånken Backpack (Depop) // Boston Red Sox Cap (Charity shop) // Denim Choker (Yours Again)* // Sunglasses (Topshop – old)

Finally, this is a look at another thrifting discovery from my trip; this bell-sleeved blouse, which gained me two compliments within the charity shop itself. Apparently, statement blouses are my kryptonite now. I paired it two different ways, two days in a row, simply because I loved it so much.

There are so many simple details to this blouse which makes it hard for me to believe somebody actually wanted to give it away. On top of the gorgeous mustard colour, there are exposed fabric buttons down the back and pleated bow details on the sleeves (or, one could say, wings).

One pairing option was with my years-old floaty maxi dress which is the perfect layering piece, all year round. In my mind, the socks and shoe situation toned down what was probably only making sense to myself, style-wise. Combining a sports cap, a pair of ‘sneakers’ and a layered boho dress, works right? 

Silver Disc Ring (Liz P Jewelery)

Have no fear, I dialled it right back with just a simple pair of jeans, at least once. The sleeves did all the talking, even when I was camouflaged by a wall in a parking garage. This outfit also reassured me that I made the right choice when I was considering which colour backpack to buy; yellow on yellow may have been overkill.

The sleeves of this blouse (which cost me about £5 with the Red Sox cap included, thanks to the charity shop having a 50% off sale), also gave me an opportunity to show off my beautiful and handmade silver disc ring by Liz P. I’ve already spoken about why I bought this ring over on Instagram but it deserves some time to shine on my blog, too. It’s so eye-catching in its simplicity; I will never stop appreciating its beauty.

I hope you enjoyed this round-up as much as I enjoyed compiling it. It will be a great post to look back on in the future, so I can remember where I bought specific items because I am definitely considering my yellow blouse as a souvenir, too. I’ll never forget that weird little thrift store in Newport and the cap that brought me perhaps a bit too much joy.

After all, there is sustainability in sentimentality.

Which is your favourite outfit? Have you had any thrifting success lately? Let me know in the comments!

In the past few months, I have taken my activism offline and out onto the streets in support of causes I care about, so, I thought I would share some essential tips for first-time protesters, as I know it can be a little overwhelming when you don’t know what to expect. These tips can apply to a mix of protests and marches, although they are heavily influenced by the recent Extinction Rebellion actions that took place in London.

Work out if protesting is for you…

Taking action in real life isn’t for everybody, no matter how much we’d like to be supporting a cause. This can be for a whole array of reasons, whether it’s to do with mental health, physical health and abilities, age, race or even location; the list goes on.

Although my personal protest experience is still fairly limited, I’ve experienced a few different variations of protest; from peaceful marches (such as the 2018 Women’s March in Florence, Italy and one of the initial Youth Strike for Climate marches in London), to small intimate direct calls for change (such as the protest in support of the Bangladesh Accord in 2019) and even the larger scale and long-lasting protests of Extinction Rebellion.

In my own experience, the sense of community from all of the various protests I’ve been a part of has alleviated many of my concerns and anxious feelings. Once you’re amongst your people – I say ‘your people’ because you are all coming together for the same cause, after all – you’ll realise that you’re not alone and whatever you’re trying to achieve can be done as a united group.

I don’t feel confident in giving one set piece of advice on working out whether protesting is for you because everyone is so different (and so is every strike, march and protest), however, if being alone is a big concern to you, either stay put until you can find a protesting friend to join you on the journey or be open to meeting new people on the day (more on this later).

Put safety first and come prepared…

Here is your protest starter kit, which you can comfortably pack into a backpack:

*Why a phone number? Because, depending on the protest’s actions, you could be putting yourself in the position of possible arrest. This doesn’t necessarily apply to all protests but it’s recommended if you want to put your mind to ease, especially if your memory isn’t the strongest. Use a pen and write a helpful number on your arm (whether this is a parent/guardian or close-friend).

*For food, I suggest a snack box filled with fruit or on-the-go snacks like crisps and biscuits. For a larger option, if you know you won’t be able to easily access a shop or a full meal during the day, I suggest stocking up on something simple (and plastic-free!) like a Gregg’s vegan sausage roll. Sorry for being exclusionary if you don’t live in the UK.

Assess the situation for you and you only…

This is super important to remember because everybody attends protests for different reasons, and we all have our own personal limitations and boundaries. For example, when joining in with the actions of Extinction Rebellion’s International Rebellion, I knew I did not want to put myself in the position to be arrested.

It wasn’t because I didn’t care enough to stand up for my cause, it was because I knew I wouldn’t have been able to cope with it or manage it on my own. I made it very clear with the groups of people I teamed up with on the days I was there and I also made sure to stay vigilant when I was in prominent police presence.

(I will note that theoretically, you should only get arrested if you want to get arrested. You are given warnings if you are partaking in an arrestable action (like road-blocking), so, you can decide whether to move on or face the consequences.)

However, as a speaker during the Rebellion mentioned, this is particularly important to be mindful of if you are part of a minority or are a person of colour, as systemic racism is apparent and we cannot ignore that, especially in a scenario where illegal actions may be happening. If you are a white person, pay attention to and support those around you, particularly those you know are already made more vulnerable.

Look and listen…

On a similar vein, it’s vital to pay attention to what is actually going on around you, within the protest. If you ever feel unsafe or uncertain, make sure to pull yourself out of that situation, even if it means leaving others behind. This applies to just needing to rehydrate or find food, as well. If we don’t look after ourselves, it’s a lot harder to look after others (and the planet!).

Also ensure that you are listening to those leading the way, whether that be the group leading a protest or whether that’s the police. Non-violent and peaceful protests are collective actions which involve listening and working together, as a team.

Find your people…

As I’ve briefly already mentioned, if you are alone and feel slightly lost and unsure, I highly recommend finding others who are in a similar boat, even if this means going out of your comfort zone and introducing yourselves to groups of strangers.

Not only will this make you less vulnerable but it will also make your experience much more enjoyable – because even if protests are usually focusing on a pressing issue, they can also be a way to lift your spirits.

Extinction Rebellion is particularly great at ensuring nobody is left alone, not only because they advise buddying up but also because the group is so close-knit and supportive. My Instagram feed is now scattered with fellow-protesters that I’ve met along the way and I experienced some truly beautiful moments with them – like sitting in the middle of Oxford Circus, sharing biscuits with strangers as the sun was setting. That’s not something you do every day.

Also, remember to look out for local groups which are focusing on issues you care about closer to home, as often larger protests are held in capital cities which makes them less accessible to those who would have to travel.

I’m now part of my local Extinction Rebellion group which has meetings once a week, to discuss plans for local actions and to express our climate-related thoughts and feelings in an open and honest space.

Those are some very basic tips for attending your first protests! If you have any more questions, ask away in the comments…

Dear Earth,

If I had to choose a relationship status to correctly label my feelings towards you, I think I’d choose – ‘It’s complicated’.

It’s not because I don’t find you utterly beautiful; in fact, I probably don’t appreciate your beauty as much as I should do. I undoubtedly take you for granted and haven’t ever really taken the time to fully comprehend all of the incredible aspects of life you give to me and the rest of the world, every single day.

My knowledge of plant and animal species is admittedly, not the largest and I don’t always take the time to stop and smell the roses when I pass them by. I also don’t pick up litter to restore your beauty when necessary because I’m often thinking of myself, first.

It’s not because I don’t care about your future, either; I do. There’s more I could be doing and we both know that. I live with that guilt every day, brought upon by myself as well as the system I was born into, but I hope you understand that it’s because sometimes putting myself first is necessary, especially when I know your future could be a difficult and scary one to face. As much as I wish it didn’t, your future puts a heavy weight on my shoulders that I sometimes have to lighten.

I would say it’s not because you, yourself are scary and that all of the uncertainty being created is caused by mankind but I do have experience in your sheer force and strength. I’ve felt you move beneath my feet, seen you make my family cry in fear and heard your roar so loud it was almost deafening. I know what it means to see loss happen under your control and I know more loss is occurring every day just from how we treat you.

I understand that you can’t help it and it’s just the way you were created but I will never be able to forget the trauma that you caused me. I say you are beautiful but there are parts of you that I’m still working on rebuilding my connection to, like the mountains; they still look different to me.

Despite how much I love you – or try to love you – I know you need more than what I, and everybody else, is giving you and that you need it urgently. I hope that you can see the people who are fighting for you, whether it’s on the streets and bridges we’ve built or if it’s in the countries that are already suffering.

We are here and we are trying and those who aren’t listening will face the consequences along with us but without preparation. We have abused you – I have abused you – and your sheer force and strength will soon come out in other, undefeatable ways. I don’t know what that will look like and I don’t believe anyone does, no matter how many predictions have been made.

I separate the world that I am living in from the earth that I am living on and I would like to try and keep a promise to start doing less of that. The world could come to an end as we know it but you have your strength; you don’t need me or anybody else. You will live on without me, even if you are in pain.

So yes, our relationship is complicated. Even now, these words do not seem adequate enough to express my concern and confusion towards you.

You deserve so much more than one day of the world’s attention. If with it, it didn’t bring pain, I would want you to use your mighty roar more often, so that more people would sit down and listen to what you’re trying to tell us. I have the ability to listen and learn from you, over the animals and creatures who will have to let it wash over them with no warning. So, why Earth, are people not listening to you? I’m listening. I’m listening even when I don’t know what to say back.

Happy Your Day. I hope I get to celebrate many more with you.

Love from,
Tolly

Your mind can be overflowing with questions when you first enter the world of ethics and sustainability; in fact, it will probably stay that way for the foreseeable future and for a good reason. Having issues close to your heart and being sparked by curiosity is what helps move us forward, so, to help aid this – I’m answering some of your questions in an easy Q&A format…

WHAT I WORE: Denim Jacket (G-STAR RAW)* // White Rollneck Sweater (Charity shop) // Pink Tartan Kilt (Charity shop) // White Sneakers (YATAY)*

How do you spot greenwashing?

If you’re unsure what the term ‘greenwashing’ means, it’s essentially when sustainable or environmental concerns get glossed over by small (or even false) attempts at being sustainably conscious, intentionally or not.

If you take a look through my archives, I’ve answered this question previously and explained in more detail about what greenwashing really is. Some of my tips included looking at whether a brand is shouting about ethics or not; looking at what information is easily accessible and finding out what progress a brand is making.

For example, if a fashion brand launches a new ‘sustainable collection’, try and find out exactly what sustainable means and whether sustainable principles go into every detail. If that ‘sustainable collection’ is based on using recycled materials, that’s a great step in the right direction, however – if the garment workers who manufacture that collection are still being underpaid, you do have to ask where the brand’s priorities really lay.

I personally always pay attention to what the brand is shouting about or what its overall brand ethos is; trust your gut and work from there. Obviously, it is important to appreciate minor steps a brand makes in becoming more sustainable but in a time where we have an 11-year countdown clock until irreversible effects of climate change could occur, I think we need much bigger commitments and fast.

Do you have any advice on encouraging other people to buy less fast-fashion without seeming rude or demanding?

I’m sure many people can relate to this frustration. Trust me, I’ve been there having conversations over the dinner table which have ended up heated and alive with passion. It’s not fun to have the principles close to your heart, seemingly attacked, or to have people become defensive and offended because they think you’re implying that they, a single individual, are the reason behind bad working conditions in clothing factories and the toxic dyes and chemicals being poured into rivers.

I believe consistency and subtlety are key. Be consistent by making it obvious it’s something you care about but be subtle in how you approach it – it could be by explaining why you would rather pop into a charity shop than a high-street store when out shopping with a friend, or it could be suggesting a really great documentary you watched (like The True Cost), when somebody asks you what they should watch on Netflix.

You could also gift educational books if you want people to understand why you care about a certain issue so much. Not only will this provide them with the tools to shift their mindset themselves but it will also enable them to learn more about you. 

This can apply to a lot of sensitive topics, not just the topic of conscious consumption and buying less fast-fashion.

Top tips for buying ethical clothing on a budget?

This is always a common question, understandably. I have three different answers. Firstly – shop second-hand if you’re able to. I understand that second-hand shops aren’t always accessible to everyone and that depending on where you look, thrifting isn’t always size-inclusive. However, it’s always the most affordable and sustainable option.

You don’t even really have to think about ethics because you’re not buying new (you might just want to understand where your money goes if it’s a charity shop or part of a chain of thrift-stores).

Secondly – shop the sales of ethically-focused brands. They do have them and it’s a great way to support brands who align with your values when your budget is limited.

Lastly – shift your mindset! This is the ‘alternative’ answer because it takes time to fully grasp a hold of. The more you learn, the more you’ll end up caring and for me, that looked like drastically cutting down on what I was buying, leaving me more room to save up and spend on investment purchases.

What sort of things should I be investigating when trying to find out how ethical a fashion brand is?

My greenwashing piece is also a great one to read for this, as it breaks down the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index and the different types of commitments major brands are starting to make. It might also be helpful to make sure you know the difference between ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ because those lines can become blurred, making it harder to work out what brands are the right fit for you.

Luckily for you, I have a whole post dedicated to the definitions of ‘ethical fashion’ and ‘sustainable fashion’.

How do you stay motivated? I often feel very discouraged and like it’s not worth it.

I’d heard this dozens of times in the past and it always made a little defensive because I had reasons as to why I wasn’t but… getting out there really helps. I’ve only just started taking my activism work out into the real world (i.e off of the internet) but experiencing it in more tangible ways, has already made a huge impact in how I view the work that I’m doing and what I’m doing it for.

It has also made me feel less alone because seeing faces on a screen is so different from having flowing conversations and debates, face-to-face. One of my favourite experiences so far was attending one of the Youth Climate Strikes in London; there were 20,000 other young people marching alongside me and for once, having hope didn’t feel quite so naive.

If you’re under 25, I suggest following Extinction Rebellion’s Youth group to see how you can get involved with their protests and campaigns.

Have any more questions? Leave them as a comment and I’ll see how I can help!

(All items marked with an asterisk* were gifted to me within the past year)

Not too long ago I took a whirlwind 24-hour tip to Amsterdam. I wandered along a canal, ate a waffle and was inspired by the stories that came out of the TOMS event I’d kindly been invited to. I also found myself at the Fashion for Good museum; a place that had filled my Instagram feed since its early days and not somewhere I thought I would end up anytime soon…

  LOCATION:
Fashion for Good
Rokin 102, 1012 KZ
Amsterdam, Netherlands 🇳🇱

Fashion for Good is the first of its kind. It’s a museum specifically showcasing sustainable fashion and a hub for educating yourself on the harmful impacts the industry creates. Whether you’re like me and are already well-versed in what the phrase ‘fashion for good’ can possibly mean or whether you’re completely new to it all and have spontaneously found yourself at the museum on a tourist trip, it’s now at the top of my recommendations list.

I met up with Nicola who heads up Digital Marketing for Fashion for Good, and it’s clear that everyone working there and behind the scenes is extremely passionate about what the space represents. I asked Nicola and the team some questions about the museum and I’ve spread out the answers within this post and mini-review. Even if you’re not heading to Amsterdam anytime soon, hopefully, you can still be inspired from afar…

The aforementioned RFID-bracelet (pictured above) is one of the most interactive parts of the museum. It’s a bit like a more technologically advanced version of my eco-habit tracker. You wear it on your tour around and tap into any of the displays that resonate with you, making a commitment to whatever change or small action it’s suggesting.

At the end of your tour, you can check in and have a digital ‘action plan’ sent to your email. Some of the actions I committed to, included – washing my clothes on a cold wash (as I always do), asking questions and finding a tailor (something I recently did for a second-hand pair of dungarees I invested in).

These actions are small but they’re all achievable and that’s what I love about the museum. Although there are still some hard-hitting facts to face up to, it’s also an experience of celebration and empowerment. If we had more spaces like this elsewhere, hopefully, the idea of educating yourself on fast-fashion and sustainability, wouldn’t seem so daunting to so many people.

What did I discover on my visit, I hear you ask? I discovered the likes of Frumat, which is an extremely realistic leather alternative made from apple skins. I found this on the second floor of the museum which was a space highlighting the future of fashion, with examples of new innovations and the innovators themselves.

If the educational side of things isn’t enough to hook you in, there is also a GIF booth now available to visitors (you know how much I love GIFs!), as well as a customisable t-shirt station which provides you with the chance to add a custom graphic design to a Cradle Certified GOLD T-shirt. If you’re not sure what Cradle Certified means, you can take a look at when I covered the Cradle Certified G-STAR RAW denim collection, here.

Additionally, you can visit Fashion for Good to buy fashion made for good, with a pop-up store which changes depending on the museum’s current focus. When I was visiting, the focus of what the museum calls, ‘The Good Shop’, was ‘NAKED‘ and the idea of transparency within fashion brands. The ready-to-purchase collection on display included pieces from brands such as Swedish Stockings, as well as Reformation, which isn’t currently available to purchase in-store in Europe.

Fashion for Good is situated near the canal in Rokin, Amsterdam, just opposite an easily accessible Metro station and many little shops and cafes. Admission is free and it’s open from 11am to 7pm (6pm on weekends).

Have you visited Fashion for Good? Share your experience in the comments!

It’s been a fair amount of time since I’ve used this space on the internet to be indulgent and talk simply about clothes and although this piece will still be sprinkled with nods to sustainability (it’s almost impossible for me not to, now), I want to ease your minds a little and get back into my creative and editorial groove…

WHAT I WORE: Vintage Suit – £10 (Originally Retromania London) // Silver Blouse (Jumble sale) // Platform heels (Vagabond – old) 

Not too long ago, I was walking the streets of London thinking of ways to kill time before my journey home and obviously, me being me, killing time often comes in the form of browsing vintage and charity stores. Enter, Retromania, a tiny old vintage store tucked away in Pimlico, that appeared on my phone as a Google Maps suggestion.

Unbeknown to me, Retromania was having a mega sale and when I say mega, I mean, upstairs was £10 and downstairs was £5. It explained why there was a lady hauling a gigantic mountain of clothes to the till; it was a vintage shoppers goldmine and only for a temporary period of time.

So, sure enough, I was grabbing different pieces from rails and dashing to the changing rooms, expecting to come away with treasures. Sadly, my first try on wasn’t as spectacular as I was envisioning.

That’s the thing with vintage or any second-hand shopping; you can pick out an item and have a specific vision for how it will look on you, only for it drape unevenly and hang off all the wrong places…

That’s until I was about to dash out the door, my departure time drawing closer, and my eyes returned to something that had stood out as soon as I’d entered. It was a mint green wool suit, about five sizes too big and a price tag of £40; a little too steeply priced and a little too oversized for my liking, especially when I’m no longer a fan of impulse purchases. I prefer the more considered approach.

But of course, the sale was on, and I was reminded that this piece was actually only £10 and well, I’ve adjusted trousers before, so, how hard could it be? I flung myself back in the changing room, stripped down all my layers once again and decided to take the plunge. This huge minty suit was destined to be mine.

And now it is; in all of its Life on Mars, Bowie-esque gloriousness. It took me a few days to adjust and tailor to my size but that £10 sale and the clock ticking to rush me out the door was all matter of destiny. My suit collection has officially grown and you can see a snippet of the adjustment process, over on my DIY Highlight on Instagram Stories.

Just like how this suit recently entered my life, so did colourful eyeshadow. You may or may not know but make-up just isn’t for me. I’m at a stage now where even though my skin is far from perfect, I would rather face the occasional day where I lack in self-confidence than keep up a strict skincare routine or buy single-use beauty products which I probably wouldn’t know how to apply, anyway.

Yes, even my disinterest in make-up turns out to be an incidental sustainable lifestyle choice. However, I do love colour and I’ve never been against the idea of creative make-up which allows you to enhance your personality. In fact, I’ve reblogged a lot of posts on Tumblr which explain my feelings about it all, in various different ways.

I’m embracing it and allowing myself to explore something I’ve, well, resisted for so long. My eyelids match my suit, my suit matches David Bowie, and all of what I’m wearing is sustainable (second-hand clothes and extremely worn in platforms). What more could a girl want?

If you own a sewing machine or know a friend who’s willing to help you out, this is a PSA – get that mint green suit which looks like it would never fit you. Save something from ending up unworn (perhaps even in a landfill), get creative and live your sartorial dreams.

How would you have styled this suit? What’s your best vintage bargain? Let me know in the comments!

Last year and into 2019, the UK’s parliamentary Environmental Audit Committee has been investigating the sustainability of the UK fashion industry, leading up to the final report which includes recommendations for the Government, who have two months to respond.

The Fixing Fashion report can be read in full, here.

For those of you who missed my initial piece on the inquiry, I would highly recommend going back to take a read. I interviewed Mary Creagh MP, who is the Chair of the Environmental Audit Committee. In the piece, I discussed the purpose of the inquiry and some of the main issues and concerns being raised as evidence was being put forward.

Now, after over six months, the final report – Fixing Fashion – has been released. Although the Government does have two months to respond, it is under no obligation to accept the recommendations suggested in the report – which would be a crushing blow, considering the fact that the majority of the issues raised throughout the inquiry haven’t exactly been surprising.

It would also be a defeat because, as the report states, in the UK, we are buying more clothes than any other European country; therefore, we are also responsible for a greater environmental impact, than any other European country – which of course, doesn’t just affect the UK, alone.

If you’re less aware of some of the key issues we’re facing when it comes to effects of fashion in the UK – specifically, fast-fashion -, here are some of the main facts to remember:

And although there might not be a specific statistic or piece of data to show for it, we also know that transparency within the industry is a factor that plays a part too; sustainability and ethics-wise.

For example, in the report, Boohoo (or Boohoo Group), stated that they do not see the benefits of joining the ETI (the Ethical Trading Initiative; an alliance that protects the rights of workers around the world). Carol Kane, Boohoo Group’s co-founder and joint Chief Executive said, “being members we will be required to publish our whole supply chain, which is currently our engine room”.

Carol Kane was also asked about Boohoo’s position on workers unions and the report quotes her saying, “if the workers would like it”. You can read my piece that covers the Bangladesh Accord, here, as it goes into detail as to why initiatives similar to the ETI, as well as unions, are so vital to the protection of garment workers.

Boohoo wasn’t the only brand which provided evidence to the inquiry. Within the report, there is a table of retailer’s responses which is an eye-opening record of the actions and commitments that many well known British brands are and are not achieving. Missguided and Boohoo were two of the worst offenders, shockingly alongside Amazon UK.

So, what are the recommendations being put forward to the Government? I’ve listed below some of the suggestions that stood out to me. They are a mix of ethically focused and sustainability-focused suggestions but the two go very much, hand-in-hand…

Made in the UK should mean workers are being paid fairly…

There is known evidence that garment workers in the UK (yes, the UK itself, not just overseas) are being underpaid. Leicester is one of the main textile manufacturers in the country, home to 700 factories employing 10,000 textile workers, and under a study by the University of Leicester, it was found that the majority of garment workers in the city, were earning below the National Minimum Wage – this is the attitude towards a known situation onshore, at home.

This one quote from the chairman of the Textile Manufacturer Association of Leicestershire, Saeed Khliji, stood out to me in particular – “None of the retailers are giving us an ethical price. An extra £2 or £2.50 on a garment would sort everything out. Instead they squeeze us for pennies. If they don’t sell everything, they send it back and charge us for the carriage. If we are an hour or 30 minutes late with delivery they fine us £500. I have been told of one retailer who is making £2 million a year from fines.”

The committee urges that HRMC’s National Wage team (which the report states, investigates employers at a rate meaning the average employer can expect an inspection around once every 500 years), is provided with greater resourcing, in order to ensure the ‘Made in UK’ label, actually means what most of us believe it to.

Retailers failing to report and comply with the Modern Slavery Act should be faced with a penalty…

According to the report, the Public Accounts Committee raised the concern that the Government does not monitor whether statements made under the Modern Slavery Act comply with legislation and that it has never used its powers to penalise companies that do not comply.

The Home Office Minister Victoria Atkins MP said, “In terms of companies that have reported: we know that around 60% of businesses that we believe to be within scope have put up statements; 60% of companies in total.”

From my own personal reading of the report, there is an awful lot of uncertainty surrounding the Modern Slavery Act, when it seems as if it should be the bare minimum when it comes to the expectations put upon major brand names.

The Government should ban incinerating or landfilling unsold stock that can be reused or recycled…

This recommendation is another I would hope the Government would read as a matter of urgency. Lucy Siegle wrote about this topic when the news broke that Burberry was destroying old stock –

“There are 101 processes that go into making a garment, from harvesting plants for raw fibre, to the processing and finishing of textile yarns involving thousands of litres of water. There are hundreds of hours of human labour too. Similarly, high-end cosmetics are a drain on resources in terms of both raw ingredients from the natural world and processing. To input all of these resources and then to squander them by burning (recovering only a tiny proportion of that energy) is pure madness given the backdrop of ecological emergency that we face.”

For anyone curious, Burberry’s 2017/2018 Annual Report stated that the cost of finished goods physically destroyed in the year was £28.6 million (2017: £26.9 million), including £10.4 million of destruction for Beauty inventory.

Lessons on designing, creating, mending and repairing clothes should be taught in schools…

I was fortunate enough to go to a school where I experienced using a sewing machine and learning how to thread a needle but for a lot of people, going out and buying a new coat to replace the one you own that’s missing a button, is often the easier option due to this lack of knowledge.

Not only does this recommendation approach the issue surrounding throw-away fashion, but it also approaches the added benefits to a make-do-and-mend attitude being taught from a young age, as crafting is known to be beneficial for mental health and those tackling anxiety.

An Extended Producer Responsibility scheme for companies that take positive action to reduce waste, should be introduced…

An EPR is a policy where producers are given responsibility for the treatment or disposal of products they put on the market, whether it be financially or physically. An EPR has already been introduced into other countries across Europe, including France.

A charge of one penny per garment could raise around £35 million, which could be invested into better clothing collection and sorting around the UK, diverting a large number of unwanted and unusable clothes from landfill.

The Government should reduce VAT on repair services…

This is another recommendation which would help slow down the rate at which consumers dispose of clothing, making repair services more accessible, allowing for people to hold onto their clothes for longer and take care of them when wear and tear begins to occur. Sweden has already taken this approach successfully, reducing VAT rates on repairs to bicycles, clothes and shoes from 25% to 12%.

If you’re wondering if there is any way for you to get involved – there is! Fashion Revolution has just released a postcard template you can use to send to your local UK public officials, to ensure they know how important the report is to you and the future of the fashion industry. Click here to download it and print it off.

With time running out and the fashion industry working faster than ever, I would hope that these suggestions would be taken seriously. There are many other points raised that I haven’t even touched upon, so, if you have the time, I would highly recommend reading through the report and seeing what stands out to you the most.

If you could add a recommendation to the Fixing Fashion report, what would it be?

I know that bite-sized breakdowns of information are often the best way of getting things across, so, in this post, I’m going to explain what the Bangladesh Accord is, in simple terms. It might not even be something you’re aware of, so perhaps this will even be a little eye-opening…

Scan of Fashion Revolution’s Zine Issue #1 – Artwork by Alke Schmidt

What is the Bangladesh Accord?

The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh was founded in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse, in May 2013. It was initiated by trade unions – organised groups of workers formed to protect their rights in the workplace – in Bangladesh, as well as global unions and labour rights groups.

The Accord required all companies and brands who signed it to be completely transparent in revealing their factories and putting in place building inspections to ensure that the factories being used were safe from any dangerous hazards, relating to fire, electricity and structural safety.

It is also asked of those brands signed onto the Accord, to be responsible for finding the funds to implement any changes or safety measures that were needed should they appear upon inspection.

One of the most important factors the Accord put in place, was the right for workers to refuse unsafe work without losing pay or suffering any form of discrimination or harm – I highlight this, as it is known workers involved in the Rana Plaza collapse voiced concerns about the factory’s condition before it occurred.

Essentially, the Bangladesh Accord ensured the safety of garment workers, those of which provide the clothes for hundreds of brands worldwide, including those which had signed on since 2013.

H&M, G-Star RAW, Arcadia Group, Debenhams, Fat Face, John Lewis, Marks & Spencer, Matalan, Mothercare, New Look, Next, Primark, and River Island, are some of the names included.

What has the Bangladesh Accord achieved?

In 2012, prior to the Rana Plaza disaster, there was the Tanzeen Fashion factory fire, which killed over 100 people and injured over 200. Similar incidents have also occurred since then, with 24 people killed in a packaging factory in 2016 (although not directly linked to garments, it’s a clear sign that this issue goes further than clothing production).

In an update released by the Accord in December 2018, 97% factories inspected lacked safe fire exits and 91% of factories required an adequate fire alarm system. These are basic needs you would expect of a factory, yet, they were still lacking and putting workers at risk. Instability of factory buildings was also found at 62% of those inspected.

(As somebody who has experience with earthquakes, the photo evidence in the update released reminded me of structural damage I’ve seen and felt unsafe with, in person – and that’s just from a house, not a building which is supposed to withhold heavy loads and powerful machinery.)

The Accord successfully worked at putting these sorts of safety and structural measures in place.

Is the Bangladesh Accord still in place?

In 2018, the new Transition Accord was put in place to ensure the continuation of the Accord in protecting the safety and rights of garment workers – and textile workers, as a whole. However, the Government of Bangladesh have since decided they would like to get rid of the Accord and the take on the responsibility with the national organisation known as the RCC or ‘Remediation Coordination Cell‘.

The Accord states that the RCC is not prepared to take on the responsibility due to lack of staffing and knowledge. The Accord would like to continue the work being done until 2021, as agreed upon when work first began, in order to transfer the knowledge and continue to aid the hundreds of factories which are still lacking in safe working conditions.

Without the Accord monitoring factories at such a scale, it’s possible that there would be no way to guarantee fixes are being put in place, meaning brands under the Accord would have to cut ties with their factories – as part of their legal agreement -, which could run the risk of Bangladesh losing a substantial amount of business in manufacturing, leaving many without jobs and income. This helpful article by Fashion United breaks it down even further.

What does this mean about the clothes we buy?

Due to the fact that Bangladesh is the 2nd largest producer of clothing in the world, it’s safe to say that a majority of what we wear is still being produced in what the Accord has found to be unsafe working conditions, putting millions of garment workers at risk every day, for our benefit – and this isn’t counting any of the discriminatory behaviour, harassment or abuse that occurs in these factories on a daily basis, the majority of which is towards exploited and underpaid female workers.

In most recent news in early January 2019, there has been a protest from Bangladeshi garment workers fighting for higher wages which caused the death of one worker and left many injured, after clashes with the police.

What can we do about it?

Support organisations such as Clean Clothes Campaign, who were one of the initial witnesses of the signing of the Accord, by sending a letter to the Bangladesh Prime Minister through the #ProtectProgress petition campaign. The goal is to reach 6,400 letters sent and all it takes is a minute of your time. The letter will send a signal that you care about the rights and safety of garment workers and would like the work of the Accord to continue.

Labour Behind The Label also needs your support. On January 30th 2019, during Bangladeshi Garment Workers Week, Labour Behind The Label is holding an urgent protest in London outside of the Bangladesh High Commission, in order to stand in solidarity of those protesting in Bangladesh itself, and to raise awareness that the Accord is still wanted and necessary to ensure a fairer fashion industry. I will be there and I hope you have the ability to be there, too.

In terms of consumption and shopping, boycotting brands who produce from Bangladesh will never work unless it’s in vast numbers; it will also never be the end goal. However, for sustainability reasons, you may already be cutting down how much you buy new and what brands you choose to support, so, I of course, urge you to continue doing so.

Slowing down is what will inevitably help steer garment factories in a safer direction because there will be less demand and therefore, less pressure, whether that be on the workers, the buildings that surround them, or the planet.

Were you aware of the Accord before? Do you have any more questions? Let me know in the comments!

It may be 10 days into 2019 but I think it’s still appropriate to wish one another a Happy New Year, right? I also think it’s still appropriate timing to start making changes and implementing new routines into our lives. I’m not one for strict resolutions (I wonder how many times you’ve heard that one?) but I understand that this time of year can be a great place for picking up some motivation…

With this and sustainable living becoming of interest to more and more people, it couldn’t be a better time to start implementing eco-friendly habits, tips and tricks into your everyday routine. This isn’t to say I think everybody should be getting into gear to start living plastic free for the next 365 days but it could be a great opportunity to at least start thinking about it, as well as the other many things you can do to ease your conscience.

For a very simple example, in the past few months, I’ve become a convert to the tote bag because not only can they be rather quite stylish, they’re also a great alternative to plastic bags on offer in stores or even ‘bags for life’, which in the UK, are still selling like hotcakes, even though the cost is supposedly a deterrent – according to the Environmental Investigation Agency, 1.18 billion were sold in 2017.

As somebody who was, up until quite recently, glued to their Paguro recycled rubber bag, the transition from handbag to tote bag, and remembering to pack my reusable water bottle and travel coffee cup inside it, did take some getting used to.

That sounds rather dramatic but if it’s said that it can take around 66 days to form a new habit then it’s not surprising that it’s easy to forget these things before popping out the door – whether it be a tote bag, a bottle or even saying no to meat if you’re a transitioning vegetarian.

~ ACCESS THE FREEBIE ~

This idea originally came from wanting to create some checklist style GIF stickers to add to my growing collection (over on GIPHY – I recently hit 1.9 billion views!), so, those are also available for you to use, too! Whenever you remember your reusable bottle and feel a little smug about it (😏), search “@tollydollyposh” under GIFs on Instagram Stories and get sticking! You can find out more about my GIPHY sticker animation work, here.

It would be amazing to know if you find this eco-friendly habit tracker helpful or whether you would like to see anything similar from me in the future. I’d love to know what you’ll be filling in the blank spaces in with – did I miss out any obvious habits to track? Let me know in the comments!