ethical fashion advice

For a lot of us, ringing in a New Year can be a great place to start on creating new habits, which is why I thought this post would be a great one to end 2018 with. I’ve compiled a list of blog posts from this year (and previous years) which should help anyone wanting to start their 2019 off sustainably…

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WHAT I WORE: Beret (Gift) // Faux Fur Dalmatian Coat (Jumble Sale) // Jeans (Pull & Bear – old) // Roll-neck Jumper (Hand-me-down) // Dr Martens (Jumble Sale) // Tote Bag (Eat Mielies)

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The list (or directory of posts) below, can be used whether you’re new to sustainable living or whether you’ve been working hard on becoming more eco-conscious for years now. Sometimes it’s good to give ourselves a refresh by revisiting certain topics and issues; sometimes we need reminding that we can’t do everything at all at once (I see it as a collective issue – not one single person or action, will save the world) and sometimes, we need reassuring it’s okay to not know where to start.

You may have already read a lot of these posts or this might be your first visit but if there’s one thing you should know, it’s that I aim to be as open and honest as possible, and sometimes that’s all we need reminding of, even if you think you know it all. I do not live plastic-free, I use planes to travel and I would rather have a dishwasher than have to scrub dirty plates by hand. I am not perfect and I don’t think anybody should aim for that all in one go. It’s impossible and even if you think you’ve seen somebody living the ideal life sustainability-wise, you don’t know the ins-and-outs of their situation and what has helped them get there.

A topic I’d like to delve further into and try to understand for myself personally is the toll on our mental health when it comes to sustainability. I want this list to free up some of your time and some of your headspace, in order to help ease the load and make the weight of the fast-warming world, seem a little lighter.

Plus – I’m making it fun with a new outfit shoot because I still want us to embrace looking cool whilst learning to save the planet.

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FOR WHEN YOU NEED TO LEARN THE BASICS…

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→ What’s the Difference Between Ethical and Sustainable Fashion? 

The lines between the term ‘ethical’ and the term ‘sustainable’ can often become blurred when it comes to fashion. This post helps easily break down and define the two terms.

◈ Is Ethical Fashion Expensive?

Everybody has their own opinion when it comes to answering this question but this post might help you understand why I don’t like to hear ethical fashion being labelled as inaccessible.

★ What is Greenwashing and How Do You Avoid It? 

Ever wondered whether a brand is genuinely ethical or as sustainable as they say they are? Learn more about what ‘greenwashing’ is and whether your favourite brand uses it to their advantage.

☞ What to Do with Old Clothes

It turns out donating your old clothes to a local charity shop isn’t always the most sustainable option. Learn more about other ways to help your old clothes find new homes!

→ 5 Facts & Figures You Need to Know

This post is a really basic round-up of information that you might not be aware of, whether it be about textile recycling or how much more a t-shirt would cost if it was produced ethically.

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FOR WHEN YOU DON’T KNOW HOW TO START SHOPPING SUSTAINABLY…

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◈ My Honest Ethical Wardrobe Priorities

In this post, you’ll learn how I prioritise my wardrobe when it comes to shopping ethically. What do I spend my money on and where do I spend it? From dresses to underwear, I explain my thought process and help you understand what I try to focus on.

★ How to Know If You’ll End up Wearing Something You Buy

When it comes to conscious consumerism, you’ll be told to ask questions an awful lot. This post breaks down some of those questions in order to help you decide whether you really need what you’re buying.

☞ Finding Your Style Second-Hand

One of the most sustainable ways to shop is to shop second-hand as you’re using what’s already available without having to fund the production of new garments. I answer a variety of questions here but one of the topics covered is finding your style second-hand as you may find it tricky at first.

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FOR WHEN YOU’RE OVERWHELMED…

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→ How I Avoid Becoming Overwhelmed by Sustainable Activism 

As I mentioned previously, I’m interested in the crossover of mental health and sustainability. Here, I discussed how to avoid becoming overwhelmed by the scope of it all – whether it’s fashion related or not – because, in my opinion, it’s inevitable at some point in your sustainable journey.

◈ Calling out Hypocrisy Won’t Get Us Anywhere

If you’ve ever seen somebody publicly sharing the fact they’ve made a small sustainable act, you’ve probably also seen somebody piping up and accusing them of hypocrisy. It’s tiring and it won’t get us anywhere, and this post explains why.

★ It’s Taken Me Over 3 Years to Become a Conscious Consumer

If it’s almost impossible to be perfect then it’s even more impossible to become perfect overnight. In fact, my sustainable journey has taken over three years (and it’s still going). There’s always going to be room for improvement but it’s also important to make note of how far you’ve come. Explore my ethical fashion journey, by giving this one a read!

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FOR WHEN YOU’RE READY TO DIVE A BIT DEEPER…

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☞ You Can’t Call Yourself a Feminist if You’re Supporting Fast Fashion

Or can you? It’s a big topic of conversation. This post was inspired by a book that raised this question and got me thinking about whether my socio-political views were at peace with one another. It’s a good one if you want to question what you think you already know.

→ Why Having Fewer Clothes Doesn’t Mean Your Wardrobe is Sustainable

When I was living with fewer clothes for a couple of months, I realised that sustainable fashion isn’t all to do with having less or the production of what you by. It also has a lot to do with how we care for our clothes and when we pass them on.

◈ Can You Stay on Top of Trends as a Conscious Consumer?

Swapping fast-fashion for second-hand clothes and ethically-focused brands has meant ditching trends and being completely out-of-the-loop of what’s going on trend-wise. Before you read, why not have a think about what your answer would be…

★ Is Not Shopping a Radical Act?

A post which arose after the frenzy of Black Friday, discussing whether not shopping is as difficult as it may seem, or whether it’s actually about questioning who we are and what we stand for, style wise.

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FOR WHEN SUSTAINABLE FASHION SEEMS BORING…

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☞ No Animals or People Harmed in the Making of This Outfit

Experimenting with style is even more satisfying when you can do it sustainably and this post is all about that, in the form of an outfit shoot that explores why ethical fashion can be more fun than it looks.

→ How Suits Are Bringing out My True Colours

In 2018, I came into possession of this insanely beautiful vintage suit and it gave me a new boost of confidence – it might inspire you, too!

◈ How to Use Instagram for Sustainable Inspiration

Instagram doesn’t have to be all about crippling self-doubt and comparing your lives to others. You can use it many other inspiring ways by following the right people. In this post, I suggest several accounts which will definitely make ethical fashion seem less boring.

I hope you find at least one post here that might spark a new brainwave or inspire you to make a change. Don’t forget, my whole blog from day one right up until now, is available for you to browse. Go back and explore my old (and quite horrendous) shopping habits or spend time catching up on what I’ve been wearing lately.

I’m also over on Instagram a lot more in recent times. I’ve been doing mini features on my “Learn” highlight which seem to be going down a treat! I love being able to create an open dialogue with my audience about sustainable issues and Instagram is one of the best places to do it!

Whilst I have you, there’s still time to head on over to the UK Blog Awards and hit the heart ❤️ button on Tolly Dolly Posh Fashion in the Green & Eco category. I’d love to have my blog recognised with an award after six years of hard work and it would be an amazing way to start 2019!

Happy holidays, planet lovers!

 

The past couple of weeks have been a bit of a blur (and a whirlwind, thanks to the huge honour of being able to take over the @instagram account), so I want to apologise for the lack of Fashion Revolution content, I’ve just been one busy bee! To ease you all back in and hopefully make up for my absence, I gathered some of your questions about ethical and sustainable fashion (send me a DM on Instagram! I might be able to help). Let’s crack on with the 3rd edition of my Q&A series, shall we?

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WHAT I WORE: Sustainable Denim Jacket (G-STAR RAW)* // Floral Dress (John Lewis – very old) // Recycled Denim Choker (Yours Again)* // Bamboo Sunglasses (Bambooka)* // Socks (Birdsong London) // 1460 Pascal Boots (Dr Martens)

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Where are your favourite places to shop second-hand?

For me, I love charity shops. I’m fortunate that I have a wide selection to choose from, especially in the UK. Most towns are littered with them which means you can spend full days just browsing the rails.

I understand it’s different elsewhere though, like how in France there aren’t many charity shops yet there are dozens upon dozens of jumble sales most days of the week.

I’d say if you’re struggling to find local shops or sales then one of the most current and popular ways of shopping similarly, would be using Depop (or even eBay). It saves the time and effort of having to wade through piles of clothes too, seeing as you can search for exactly what you’re looking for.

This leads me to my next question…

How do I find my style in consignment or second-hand stores? 

One thing I’ve learned over many, many years of second-hand shopping, is that you have a lot more room for experimenting. Seeing as there is very rarely more than one of an item, it gives you the chance to really scope out styles you might not have reached for in the past.

When you embrace that experimental side of it, finding pieces which align with your style will become a lot easier as you’ll know what you’re more open to.

For me, I now know not to pay much attention to sizing because I know I can wear clothes oversized or I can even upcycle and adjust them. That already opens up so much more potential because instead of only looking at one end of a rail, I’ll end up looking at every item in a store (you know, apart from shoes because sadly, my feet don’t quite agree with ignoring sizes).

How do you balance wanting to show new clothes on your blog, with ethical shopping?

You may notice that I don’t post as many outfit shoots as I used to on my blog anymore (unless they’re within a post like this!), partly because I don’t find them very fulfilling and partly because of this exact dilemma.

Understandably, people don’t necessarily want to see the same thing being styled over and over (although, it can be done; I did a series a couple of years back called Changing with The Seasons where I did just that), and I don’t think this has anything to do with fast fashion or over-consumption, specifically.

It doesn’t matter what it is – repetition can become boring, right? Especially when it’s online and it’s constantly in front of you. So, it’s not very often that you see people posting the same outfits or the same combination of items.

The reality is though, clothes are made to be worn more than once (at least, they should be), which means, we all need to try really hard to translate that into what we post online (especially as bloggers).

I know there are plenty of arguments as to why it’s easier said than done (full-time bloggers often make a living from promoting new items, regularly), and even I have to remind myself to do it. It sends a message, even if people don’t notice it consciously.

I suppose another reason for your question could be to do with actually shopping ethically and being able to promote and show off my sustainable-wears. I’m fairly open and honest about this; for the most part, I shop second-hand (it’s one of the most sustainable ways to shop, after all) or every now and then, I collaborate with brands who send me items to style and review, which means I’m not adding items to my wardrobe very often.

I do my bit by lifting up brands in other forms of promotion and again, try my best to spread the message that wearing items more than once is totally acceptable.

My readers actually end up falling a little bit in love with what I do wear repeatedly, too! My yellow jacket and the killer sunglasses I’m wearing a lot at the moment are a great example.

Does ‘ethical fashion’ refer to how the clothes are made or does it go further into how the material is sourced etc?

I discussed the definition of ethical and sustainable fashion, here, if you want to understand things a little more clearly. However, you raise a great point about how far those definitions can go. As I state in that post, I believe the definitions are fairly subjective, so I’ll give you my own personal opinion.

For me – ethical fashion refers to every detail, from the moment the design is conceived to the moment it ends its life in somebody’s wardrobe. Unfortunately, it can be very hard to know how an item of clothing has been produced from start to finish, even if it’s coming from a brand that labels itself as ethical. There are brands that are exceptionally transparent about how they go about their work but sadly, they’re few and far between.

How do I get out of buying fast fashion trends and start making a more reusable wardrobe?

I haven’t personally done this myself because I’ve never been particularly interested in trends but I believe it could be a good way to start and perhaps, challenge yourself a little – try to shop your own wardrobe for a while. Whether it’s for a week, a couple, a month or even two, go without buying anything new and style your outfits with what you have.

Not only will you avoid buying into new trends and fading styles, you’ll be forced to reuse what you have and work out what works for you! Plus, all of this becomes easier once you prioritise ethics and sustainability because you know what’s more worthwhile.

Why is leather unsustainable? Is it because of cow farming and the process of producing it?

Just like fur, leather is one of those topics that goes off in many different directions. In some ways, leather can definitely be seen as sustainable because it’s a durable material and it biodegrades due to it being natural.

However, as your question suggests, unfortunately, the production process of leather is usually quite the opposite. Not only is there the ethical dilemma of leather, there are other problems to take into consideration.

Mass-farming is known for being unsustainable (and yes, leather does play a part in this as it is either sourced from food manufacturing or independently) but it doesn’t stop just there. Leather is commonly dyed and tanned using harmful chemical processes which contribute to pollution, especially within water systems. I highly recommend watching River Blue, for more on this.

Faux-leather isn’t much better either, seeing as the majority of it is produced using synthetic plastics which obviously, don’t have the biodegradable element of natural leather. So, if you see the term ‘vegan’ applied to a pair of shoes, perhaps ask yourself what that actually means for the environment, too.

I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again; if you want to shop leather guilt-free, buy it second-hand or from a brand which can guarantee that they’re sourcing responsibly from waste-leather and cut-offs.

You won’t necessarily contribute to any further leather manufacturing but you’ll still be able to experience the durability of the fabric.

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Have another question for me to answer? Leave one in the comments! Perhaps I’ll answer it in a future post…

 

A while ago, I answered some of your questions about ethical fashion in a simple, almost Agony Aunt style post. It went down well, so I’m back, helping simplify and break down some of your concerns and quandaries based around the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion. Hit it!

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WHAT I WORE: Floral Blouse (ASOS Africa – old) // Floral Trousers (ASOS Africa – old) // Keep On Asking Sweatshirt (Lost Shapes x Tolly Dolly Posh) // Sleeveless Denim Jacket (Jumble Sale & DIY) // Sunglasses (Unknown)

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How can I find body inclusive, plus-size, ethical fashion on a budget?

Firstly in answer to your question, I want to apologise for the fact that I don’t tend to cover plus-size fashion. This is simply because I’m personally not plus-size so for my own style, it’s not something that I need to focus on. However, I understand how important it is to be inclusive and appreciate all body shapes and sizes.

Admittedly, ethical fashion brands do seem to be rather size exclusive, although they can be far more diverse in other areas compared to fast-fashion or unethically focused brands.

My knowledge of ethical plus-size brands is small so I took a brief moment to do some research and the first brands I came across were all fairly highly priced.

It led me to an article by EcoCult which in the end, also came to the same conclusion, explaining part of the problem to be that due to ethical and sustainable brands usually being on the smaller scale of business, it creates an added cost to produce plus-sizes (new patterns need designing) which in turn puts the price up for customers.

This is ultimately a little unfair – nobody should be paying more for fairly made clothes simply because of their size – so, if you’re struggling to find good examples, don’t be too hard on yourself.

As always, a really good option for finding new (to you) clothes is going second-hand shopping, whether that’s online (eBay, Depop, Oxfam* etc) or offline (charity and thrift shops, garage sales and car boot sales etc).

However, depending on your size, some of my favourite brands like People Tree do go up to sizes like UK 16. I think it’s just the case of spending your time researching and working out what’s best for you.

(I know there are issues surrounding Oxfam right now but I use them as an example as they have a great online charity shop and I appreciate the work they are doing in making second-hand shopping more appealing.)

How do I get into the habit of paying attention to the kinds of clothes I buy?

This is an interesting question because for me, once I became educated about the ethical issues around fast-fashion or the issues around sustainability when it comes to our clothes, I started to watch out for what I was buying almost instantaneously. The fact that you’re even asking the question makes me believe you’re on the right path already.

You can almost go at it by using the rules of writing (the 5 W’s and 1 H). Ask yourself 6 simple questions…

• Who made it?
• What’s it made of? (Try and stick to natural fabrics like cotton, if you can)
• Where was it made? (Can you find information about the supplier? ‘Made in’ labels don’t mean much)
• When will you wear it? (Can you see yourself wearing it 30 times or more?)
• Why are you buying it? (Is it an impulse purchase?)
• How could you find an alternative? (Is it something you know would be readily available second-hand?)

You might only ask yourself one or two of these questions at a time, and some of them might never apply but having them in the back of your mind, especially when shopping on the high-street or from a brand which has an unclear ethical stance, can help you make much more considered choices. Remember, it will always be about shopping less when you can’t shop better.

What are some independent ethical brands?

Have you taken a look at my ethical directory, yet? It’s full of them! Some of my favourite true indie brands are Lucy & Yak (they do wonderful corduroy dungarees), Lost Shapes (did you know I designed the sweatshirt in this post for them?), Vintage Style Me (all handmade in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire) and What Daisy Did (they use scrap post-production leather to make their dreamy handbags).

Is sustainable living, a matter of privilege? 

This is a topic which has been floating around the sustainable-sphere rather a lot lately, mainly due to some recent controversy around a statement made by a well known, waste-free brand.

I’m going to lay out my current thoughts plain and simple. They’re open to evolution, criticism and hopefully mutual-understanding. For me, I don’t see thinking sustainably as being a privilege but the physical action of, for example, using and buying less single-use plastic or supporting ethical fashion brands, as yes, a privilege that not everyone has the ability of participating in.

I’m being very selective in my choice of wording here as I don’t want to imply that thinking sustainably isn’t a privilege for everyone. If I were to say everyone, I would really be suggesting the target-audience of my blog and anyone who stumbles across my share of the web in the future.

So, to explain my thoughts more accurately, let’s use you and me as an example. Just you and me, the singular person reading this text. I believe you are capable of thinking sustainably.

Whether you are like me, a teen, with very little money in the bank or whether you are a mother of two young children, I know that you have the capability of changing your mindset (at this point really, my blog may as well be renamed Tolly Dolly Mindset for the number of times I come back to that word).

Here, I am not implying that you physically have the capability of adapting your life to this mindset – I can’t know whether that is true or not, there are far too many variables -, simply, I believe you have the good-heart of somebody who knows the world needs to make significant changes to become a healthier and better place.

With that good-heart comes the ability to walk down a supermarket aisle and understand where we’re – humans; the system – going wrong. With this new found (or hopefully, years old) mindset, you’ll see plastic as something to be wary of and perhaps you’ll take time to really treasure whatever new dress you next buy.

That, I cannot see as a privilege. Perhaps time and education have to come beforehand and maybe that’s where my conclusion fails at the wayside; I’m again, happy to be proven wrong.

Anyone who jumps to the idea and exclaims that there is nothing getting in the way of anyone implementing sustainable and ethical practices is simply well, ignorant. As I recently tweeted, it’s vital to never assume that everyone has the ability to take actions and to understand that really, there are much bigger issues at hand.

As much as I hate to admit it, individual change and consumerism are only a minuscule part of the problem. 

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Do you have any questions for me to answer next time? Leave them in a comment below or click here to fill out the Q&A form.

 

This blog post is extremely overdue. I understand that for those who are new to the concept of ethics and sustainability, understanding the differences between the two terms can be difficult – there’s even the question as to whether there even is a difference. Although this dilemma can be subjective, here’s how I define the two…

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ETHICAL FASHION
Related Terms: Fairtrade, Fair Fashion, Cruelty-Free

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Ethical fashion is fashion that takes into account the morals of manufacturing. Ethical fashion is generally fashion and clothing produced with the whole production line and supply chain in mind, from cotton pickers to those who seal up, package and deliver. The belief that all workers and those affected by the production of garments should be treated equally and fairly, is the common mindset behind most ethical fashion brands.

The providing of a safe working condition, a living wage and a kind and non-abusive work environment are the usual priorities of those producing ethical alternatives to the likes of fast-fashion.

Ethical fashion avoids the use of forced, slave and child labour throughout the manufacturing process and organisations like Fairtrade International are able to help brands and companies to label and guarantee that safe and ethical practices are being put into place. Often brands don’t just ensure ethical practices but they also support and improve the livelihood of the workers they employ, especially those of which are in developing countries.

Ethical fashion can also be a term to cover cruelty-free and vegan practices, meaning that no animals are harmed or used as part of the production of clothing. An example of a vegan fabric is Peace Silk; Peace Silk is produced from moth cocoons after the moths have emerged and flown away, therefore it does not disturb or kill the moths in order to be woven into fabric.

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SUSTAINABLE FASHION
Related Terms: Slow Fashion, Eco Fashion, Eco-friendly, Green Fashion, Organic, Recycled, Upcycled, Second-hand, Vintage

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Sustainable fashion is fashion and clothing produced to last and with the environmental costs of production, in mind. Seeing as fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world, sustainable fashion aims to cut down on pollution and the negative consequences fashion production has on the earth.

Not only does sustainable fashion recognise things like pollution (whether that be into the water systems, the atmosphere or the ecosystem), it also recognises the dangers of the fast-fashion business model. Sustainable fashion brands often provide less choice, choosing to focus on quality rather than quantity, making the supply chain as eco-friendly as possible. This is also known as ‘slow fashion’.

Sustainable fashion brands often use organic fabrics, avoiding the use of pesticides and synthetic materials which have a damaging effect on the environment (as well as those who live nearby to farms and factories). Organic and natural fabrics (like cotton or bamboo) are biodegradable, which means they won’t cause as much as an issue when it comes to disposing of them.

Second-hand and vintage clothing is also considered to be a part of sustainable fashion as it is a form of recycling, meaning the consumer isn’t supporting the production of new clothing.

Often both terms get combined – ethical and sustainable fashion – simply because both go hand and hand. Although certain brands often focus on one or the other more prominently, most of the time you will find that those who believe in ethics also believe in sustainability and vice versa. 

There are certain things to be aware of though, like greenwashing, for example. These terms shouldn’t be thrown around lightly for the sake of it. I wrote all about greenwashing here, so for a more in-depth look at the issue, go and take a read. However, the main takeaway is that with ethical and sustainable brands, for the most part, they will fly the ethical or sustainable flag proudly.

One way I differentiate a brand from being ethically or sustainably focused as to not, is by taking note of how openly they discuss the issues at hand. If for the most part, ethics or sustainability doesn’t seem to be their main priority, you can use that to make your decision as to whether to support them or not.

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Clothing featured: Mayamiko (ethical), People Tree (ethical/sustainable), vintage Skirt (sustainable) and upcycled DIY jacket (sustainable).

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Has cleared things up for you? Do you have any more questions? Leave them in the comments below…

 

2017 was a weird but wonderful and I’m here to send it off. For those of you who have perhaps only recently discovered my blog or just want a quick refresher, I’m here to highlight some of my favourite posts from the past year, as well as get to know what your favourite blog posts were too! As always, thank you so much for sticking with me, following me and leaving thoughtful and considered comments. Here’s to another… 🥂

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→ 5 Things to Expect When You Become an Ethical Blogger

One of the biggest changes on my blog this year was starting to publish solely ethically focused fashion posts. This change hasn’t been easy so I compiled a list of things to expect if you decide to make a similar transition. The list covers a change in income, attracting the right audience and realising you can’t do everything!

☼ Why Having Fewer Clothes Doesn’t Mean Your Wardrobe Is Sustainable

This post received an interesting and thought-provoking response. It took a bit of work and research to compile but I’m glad I discussed this way of looking at things. Although of course, I highly recommend taking a proper read of it, in conclusion, I decided your wardrobe can only really be sustainable if you value what you put into it as much as what you take out. 

★ My Style: Recycled & DIY Denim*

This post has to be one of my best outfit and fashion shoots, yet! There’s not much to say about this one but if you want to know the sorts of styles I was wearing and channelling this year, then this is a great example. I can’t wait to bring this outfit back out in the spring.

▷ My Honest Ethical Wardrobe Priorities

Want to know what I honestly buy ethically? This post explains all, including the reasons as to why shoes and underwear are so low down on my list. I’d love to know what your ethical priorities are, no matter where you are on your ethical journey. Why not leave a comment whilst you’re there?

✤ How Teens Can Grow out of Clothes Sustainably

Parents seemed to enjoy this post as their children are always growing out and in need of new clothes, causing a great dilemma when it comes to ethical and sustainable morals. As someone who has first-hand experience in this, I shared some advice and tips on how to do it all as sustainably as you can, including shopping for your future self and sizing-up.

→ The Answers to Your Many Questions

Published not too long ago, I answered some queries my readers had in my ethical fashion survey. The format of this post and almost agony-aunt style of answering was useful to some of you and if there is a demand for more just like this, then I’ll be sure to provide for you in 2018! Just make sure to get those questions sent in.

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What was your favourite blog post this year? What would you like to see more of?

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Happy New Year! 🎉 See you in 2018, folks!

 

In early 2016, I was still buying fast-fashion, even knowing that my purchase wouldn’t benefit anything other than my itch for wanting something new…

Circa April 2013, I was sat in my living room, rocking back and forth in my chair as I read the news of the Rana Plaza disaster. This was the very first time I considered that the industry I loved might have scary and dangerous consequences. I was thirteen but go ahead and call me uneducated or close-minded if you so wish.

The little I did know was extremely simple (and rather inaccurate) and barely scratched the surface on the real issues at hand – the clothes I bought were inexpensive because they were made cheaply and the more expensive they were, the higher quality they would be.

What literal schooling and the school-of-life hadn’t taught me was that cheaply really meant, unfairly. There’s always a reason why products are priced lowly or highly, after all. But for child and pre-teen me, it was exciting to shop, no matter how things were made.

It was an experience, one which I mostly shared with my mum and my sister. We’d go out on the weekends and we’d browse the latest offerings, piling up clothes to take to the changing rooms where we’d laugh and giggle when things didn’t fit right and joyously celebrate when a dress was ‘perfect’ and ‘so you’ (and also didn’t break the bank).

My sister moved out before I ever reached my tenth birthday so those shopping trips lessened. However, they only became more cherished when she’d come back to see me and we’d do what we hadn’t been able to do for however long it had been.

I’d go on days out with my mum too because that was what we did to treat ourselves, with Southampton’s West Quay being the destination of our choice.

To avoid being stereotypical and saying that only the women in my life were shopping-til-they-dropped, I also used to plan days out with my dad where we’d spend one-on-one time dressing each other up and treating ourselves to a KFC afterwards (it was a treat, thank you very much; their baked beans are second-to-none.)

This was all ordinary behaviour and to this day in western culture, still is. We go into town with our friends and we make a full day of it. You can make memories in high-street changing rooms.

Thankfully for me, I was never brought up to avoid charity shops or vintage stores despite the stigma that surrounds them, so, without even knowing it I often balanced out my new purchases with more sustainable ones.

I’d say the closest I got to a proper formal education on the negative aspect to our clothes and the fashion industry, would have been a school trip to a local landfill where we saw the piles of rubbish which included perfectly usable textiles.

Other than that, it took the collapse of a garment factory home to the products of Primark, for me to finally embark upon my ethical fashion journey.

It took me until summer 2016 to properly bid farewell to those sorts of purchases (excluding underwear – you can read why that is here), even though I was well aware that there were better alternatives and reasons to consume more consciously.

A lot of it had to do with my shopping habits rather than the actual clothes I was buying, though. It’s almost as if you experience withdrawal symptoms and every now and then you have to fall back into fast-fashions grasp and use the good ol’ excuse of ‘treating yourself’ but since when did treating yourself mean buying something which was made without people and the planet in mind?

Technically, your dopamine levels are the only part of the equation that is being treated, or, maybe the water used to make the fabric of your new dress, just with toxic chemicals, dyes and plastic micro-fibres.

I am by no means perfect, currently. For instance, I shop second-hand but I pay no attention to the fabrics I’m buying and now that I’m more educated, I know more about the impacts of other aspects of my life, yet I haven’t made many changes in those other problem areas.

It takes time to become more conscious individually and the rest of the industry following will also take time. It’s one of the reasons we need to shout about it loudly and proudly because the quicker it happens, the better!

The more you educate yourself and allow yourself to question what you’re used to, the easier it will become to make the right choices for you. It will also make it a lot easier for other people who haven’t even considered other ways of shopping and experiencing fashion, to educate themselves too.

My consumption habits and patterns in 2016 were tremendously better than those I had in 2013 and the ones I have now make me feel content and comfortable, however, there will always be room for improvement. If you feel hopeless or perhaps even a little guilty, take a breather and put things into perspective.

Take a trip down memory lane and take a look at the changes you’ve made so far. Is there anything more you can be doing now?

Do you have any ethical goals you’d like to achieve? Is there anything you want to learn more about? If my thirteen-year-old self had asked herself those questions, I’m sure I would have reached the stage I’m at now, far sooner.

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Here are some Q&As to break-down my ethical journey…

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When did I first become aware of the issues of fast-fashion?

Around 2013 – early 2014. The main chunk of my education came from the documentary, The True Cost, which was released around the same time. You can watch it on Netflix.

What was my first ethical purchase?

Other than the dozens and dozens of second-hand items I’ve consumed in my life, I believe it was an ASOS Africa blouse. Although ASOS may not be the most ethical or sustainable brand and I don’t know too much about how it was manufactured, I think it was a good starting place and allowed me to slowly transition from shopping there frequently to making more considered choices.

When was my last fast-fashion purchase?

I can’t remember the exact time or date or which purchase was officially the last but the four items I do remember buying last year (in the early months and possibly towards the end of 2015) were a pair of Motivi floral trousers, a Pull & Bear jumper and a pair of jeans, and an embroidered white shirt from Stradivarius (the latter two brands of which are owned by Inditex).

Although these purchases weren’t ethical, they are all still in my wardrobe. I’ve worn the floral trousers so much that the zip is now broken (and will soon be fixed, I promise!) and I probably won’t be buying any other jeans for a fair few years.

I don’t condone boycotting on a mass scale but if you can shop with alternative brands – which I believe most of you reading this will be able to do, even if it means not shopping at all for a while -, then avoiding fast-fashion is what I highly advise.

What has been one of the biggest struggles so far?

Not being able to buy anything overly elaborate or ‘out there’. By that I mean, not browsing through ASOS’s new-in and buying a ruffled midi-dress which is half-floral and half-sequin (that’s the first item that caught my eye on a very brief look at their latest offerings).

I’ve perfectly adapted to this change and I believe it’s made me make much more versatile style choices meaning my wardrobe is far more wearable than it ever was before, but I can understand why it’s easy to succumb to pieces that are totally out there and not easily accessible elsewhere (unless you’re making it yourself).

What is my next goal as a conscious consumer?

In terms of fashion purchases, I want to consider the fabrics I’m buying, whether that’s new or second-hand. I want to avoid bringing more polyester and man-made materials into my life to avoid the unwanted breakdown of fibres when washing, as well as wanting to consider the affects fabrics have on my body – who knows what chemicals are in what we wear?

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Are you a conscious consumer? How far along are you on your ethical journey? What are your ethical goals? Share them in the comments!

 

A while ago, I made the conscious decision to rid my blog of any content using product images, in the hopes to make my site more organic and a place where I only featured items I owned and loved. Most of that content came in the form of wish lists. After reading a piece at around the same time by my Twitter buddy and fellow teen blogger, Eleanor Claudie, I’ve been mulling over why maybe we should all start to rethink wish lists and why they’re fit for purpose for more than just your Christmas or birthday lists as a child…

Although it’s a lot easier to see something of a higher price as an investment, I personally like to see everything we obtain and buy as an investment in itself especially when it comes to our clothes.

It’s easy to walk into a high-street store and take the low prices for granted; if you don’t like something after a few weeks or months of buying it, it doesn’t have to break the bank to pass it on or throw it away without much thought.

I know I’ve come across plenty of still-new and still-labelled items in charity shops which shows the short amount of time it can take for something to come in and out of our wardrobes (it even makes me think people have forgotten returning items for a refund is a viable option).

This throw-away culture has become easier for me to avoid and understand over the past couple of years not only due to my knowledge of consumerism but also due to the fact that as I near adulthood (6 months!), I know that what I buy is mine and will be with me when I leave home and create my own haven for collecting and storing what I own.

This even crosses over into other parts of my life, like home décor – I’ve curated a style I like and I have posters and prints that I one day want to have framed and hung on the wall. They may not be of use to me now but I know they’ll be of use to me in the future.

What we buy now should last us for years. There’s really no excuse for buying something now and not liking it after 30 days (the usual time allowed for returns and refunds for most stores); it’s a mindless way of buying, whichever way you look at it.

I take this to the extent of properly considering what I buy second-hand, too. Due to the fact that second-hand shopping doesn’t have many consequences or cons to it, it’s easy to want to buy everything you set your eyes on but the same principle still stands. Do you really need what you’re buying?

I’ve previously discussed ways to know whether you’ll actually end up wearing what you buy and one of the tips I suggested was ‘sleeping on it’. Here’s a quote directly from that post which a fair few of you found helpful…

“If you walk away from something you catch your eye on, you’ll know for definite if it’s really worth buying if you sleep on it and wake up still thinking about it.”

Perhaps as a child, we never took this too seriously. We might not have written down what Bratz doll we wanted after sleeping on it for weeks and weeks – yes, I played with Bratz, Barbies and the odd Action Man – but we wrote it down and waited and if we were lucky and fortunate enough, it would show up under our tree on Christmas morning or wrapped up on our birthday, and we would go on to treasure the gift because it hadn’t been bought for us on impulse.

Not only do wish lists make us think through our purchases more considerately, they also give us time to think about our budgets which can be helpful especially with items which are priced a little higher. You’ll be more certain about how worthwhile the purchase is and you’ll be more certain you can afford it, too.

So, what’s on your wish list currently? What do you really love but are willing to wait for? Here’s a list of items that I’d quite like to add to my wardrobe…

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~ MY WISHLIST ~

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Of course, everything is better in moderation and I would recommend you limit the number of wishlists you compile because otherwise, it defeats the whole purpose of more considerate choices. If you want some easy ways to create a wishlist without putting pen to paper, you can use a notepad on your laptop or create a bookmark folder on your browser.

Make sure to subscribe to my newsletter if you want to see more of what I’m loving, from time-to-time.

 

For the past week or so I’ve been trying my hardest to put this piece together and have it make actual, logical sense. I wanted to start straight off the bat by saying that ethical fashion isn’t expensive and explain from that point onwards. However, upon writing and re-writing (three times!) and discussing it with others, I’ve come to the conclusion that this topic just isn’t that simple, even if I can see it that way myself.

At first, I believed that my own experience of consuming ethical and sustainable fashion was a prime example of debunking the myth of a fair wardrobe being completely inaccessible but even I have to admit that I have certain privileges which make it a whole easier to fathom. I’m all about honesty around here; there’s no such thing as being overly transparent.

If I were to say that I don’t add new items to my wardrobe regularly, that wouldn’t be the whole truth. From time to time, I do fill up the gaps in my wardrobe but often I don’t have to pay the expense because I write this blog and am trusted to receive samples and gifted items in order to promote brands which are doing good work.

This isn’t often, which makes the ‘regularly’ part of the statement correct but it still happens; I can’t deny that and nor would I want to – I love fashion. I would expect you do too if you’re reading this.

If I were to also say that the prices of the brands I promote are realistic for people my age or even just the average person who might come across my blog, that wouldn’t be the whole truth either because without the privileges I receive from writing and working my socks off around here, I can hands down say I wouldn’t be wearing a People Tree jumpsuit or a recycled denim choker that costs almost £30 (although, that People Tree jumpsuit has definitely made me realise how worthy their clothes are of an investment).

It goes back to the good work they’re doing – I want to show that it’s being done instead of clinging on to the brand names I no longer appreciate. (Bear in mind, I recently turned down an ethical directory feature request because I deemed the brand to be too expensive for my readers. I’m happy with the balance I’ve found.)

If I were to say that second-hand shopping is the best way around any price-based or moral dilemma, that once again wouldn’t be the whole truth because I’m a slim 17-year-old and I’m fortunate most charity shops are filled with viable options for me.

I can’t confirm nor deny whether people of different sizes do genuinely struggle when on the hunt in these scenarios (I often find many more larger sizes, especially in UK stores) but I’m happy to admit I’ve probably been lucky on more than one occasion.

I’m excluding looking for workwear, children’s wear or necessary purchases within this and the rest of my discussion – I’m not about to start saying we should be buying bras and underwear from our local Oxfam (although, good on you if you do) or that a young family of four should all of a sudden stop buying new clothes for their fast-growing kids (my nephews wear mostly second-hand clothes but there’s no way they could go without new shoes or re-purchases here and there).

So, what can I say that for the most part, strips away privilege, anything to do about the way we look at ethical options as an ‘investment’ and the idea of conscious consumerism and changing our shopping habits?

Well, it goes back to what a lot of my past blog posts used to revolve around – the facts and figures that show what we’re paying, isn’t what we should be paying if we want to acknowledge that the industry of fashion and the clothes we wear need to change.

The concept of fast-fashion (aka. the opposite of ethical, sustainable or slow fashion) originated in the 90s when the industry in the west discovered the opportunity to manufacturer clothing at a cheaper price and at a faster rate, allowing customers the chance to update and add to their wardrobe with fresh and new styles whilst saving money at the same time, and in-turn, producing more profit (it makes business sense, right?).

The majority of fashion manufacturing moved overseas, allowing brands to find cheap labour in developing countries. Quite simply, the demand grew, being supported by catwalks, the advertising industry and the new consumer expectation that we could have it all, whenever we wanted and for an amount, our purses would be happy with. This lead to more and more pressure being put upon the factories by the brands we grew to know and love. It’s why we saw the Rana Plaza disaster and the Tazreen factory fire.

Factories in developing countries aren’t built for the consumption of fast-fashion and nor is the supply chain. The cost of production means underpaid workers, poor working conditions, human rights violations and even child or forced labour that nobody would allow elsewhere.

All of these are consequences of the cheap, low prices that can be found on high-streets or online, and that’s not even including the affects this type of production puts on the planet and earth itself. It’s unsustainable and it’s unethical and there’s a reason why it’s cheap and why I don’t use the term very fondly around here.

Even if we’re not used to it and even if it will take years to change – we should be paying more which means ethical fashion, quite frankly, isn’t expensive in theory. It’s expensive in terms of price tag comparison (an ethical t-shirt could cost you £20-30 versus a fast-fashion alternative at £10) but the reason behind it is just and fair. It ensures that workers are paid fairly and that they work in safe environments, as well as often ensuring the use of sustainable and organic materials.

“But in the meantime, Tolly, how can I afford to buy new clothes at the same time as caring about where they come from? It seems impossible.”

This is where my favourite friend, Mindset, comes into play. Over-consumption goes hand-in-hand with the actual manufacturing of clothes and it isn’t helped by how we now see it being portrayed in front of our very own eyes. I know one YouTuber who has done eight different ‘haul’ videos in the past month.

I’m by no means accusing any of you of over-consuming but I think a lot of us can almost experience a sense of ‘FOMO’ (fear of missing out) by not owning a beret or a pair of heeled boots right now. I know I have!

We live in a society that thrives off of a culture of consuming the latest new “thing” (due to how #capitalism and the world of advertising works, as already mentioned) which is especially the case with fashion, with trends dipping in and out that not only affect our clothes but go on to change everything else around us.

The more we understand that this behaviour and way of consuming isn’t necessary, the less money we’ll end up spending in shorter periods of time, allowing more room for those so-say more pricey purchases which will end up being more of an investment anyway. Cost-effectiveness is sustainable and beneficial especially if you’re on a tighter budget (again – parents or anyone with strict workwear policies, I’m not pointing at you).

For example, if you know a pair of unethically produced shoes which are currently in the fashionable charts, won’t last you as long as a more investable and ethically produced pair would; think about which is more worthwhile, not only for your wallet that may have to repurchase once the cheaper option has worn down but also for the planet and the people who are making them. For me, I don’t even question it anymore.

And if you can and you’re willing to try? Look in Oxfam or Goodwill or on Depop or eBay. Even if it takes you three times as long as looking on ASOS or scrolling through what Topshop has to offer – I promise you it will feel so much more satisfying when you’ve prolonged a perfectly wearable item’s lifespan. I recently welcomed in an old pair of cherry red Dr Martens and a suede coat most definitely not in my size but there’s nothing a new pair of innersoles and wearing something oversized can’t do!

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As this title suggests, I want this to be a discussion so go forth and leave your thoughts in the comments!

Not too long ago, I popped up a quick survey for you guys to answer and submit your burning questions and queries about ethical fashion. The survey is still open and I would love if you would continue to fill it in, as it’s always good to know what you’re interested in learning more about. In the meantime, I have some answers for those of you have already asked away, inspired by my ‘Many Questions’ t-shirt from the Lost Shapes x Tolly Dolly Posh collection…

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WHAT I WORE: Many Questions T-Shirt £20.00 (Lost Shapes x Tolly Dolly Posh) // Ripped Jeans (New Look – old)* // Vagabond Dioon Platforms (Mastershoe-MyShu – old) // Red Leather Jacket £6.00 (Charity Shop)

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Is there such a thing as cheap or high-street ethical fashion?

It’s understandable that this question became a reoccurring theme in my survey responses, especially as most of you reading this are of a student age where funds are limited whilst you still want to enjoy fashion and updating your wardrobe.

I really want to say yes to this question. I don’t want to let people down and leave you all feeling hopeless that shopping ethically just isn’t a viable option, but especially when it comes to the high-street, it’s a real tricky one (and I will be writing about it in more depth in the near future).

I’m quite open with how I stand on high-street and ‘cheap’ brands launching sustainable and more ethically-conscious lines and collections; I’m a bit of a sceptic, honestly. For me, the negatives of how these brands and businesses are run will always out-way the smaller, positive steps they’re taking, until major shifts start to take place. I can’t happily tell you to go and shop with H&M and their Conscious collection when I’m being told they burn unwanted items.

The thing is, there’s always going to be a better option, even when you’re buying from a brand which is Fair Trade certified or is using recycled fibres – there’s always going to be a brand or designer out there who is doing the next best thing (which is great, don’t get me wrong). The better option to buying on the high-street is buying second-hand; the better option to buying second-hand is not buying at all. You see the dilemma?

So – really, no, there’s no such thing as ethical high-street fashion, yet. That’s just because that’s how the industry works and that’s what we’re all on the path to changing. Is there such thing as cheap ethical fashion? Yes. Second-hand and thrift shops are full of it. Your mum’s wardrobe is. XYZ Insert Ethical Brand name’s seasonal sale is. The £30 t-shirt which will last five times longer than an £8 option is also doing the trick.

How do I get my friends on board?

Luckily for you, I’ve touched on this question several times in the past. Click here, here and here for some of my old blog posts to browse through. I know from my own personal experience that it isn’t easy to suddenly transform your friends and family into conscious consumers.

It won’t click for everyone immediately, especially those who are only receiving information and education through you and you only. Honestly, if you really want to do it – try and get them to sit down and watch the True Cost, which you can easily stream via Netflix. Maybe even do a screening at home! Tell them that it’s important to you and you think it could be interesting and valuable for them to watch.

Where do I find trend-specific pieces?

Once again, you’re in luck. I recently wrote about my experience with trends and ethical fashion and how my priorities have now changed. That’s the blog post to answer your question.

What books and resources should I use to learn more?

Third times the charm, isn’t it? I’ve got you covered with my 2016 list of books and resources. I’ll be sure to do one for 2017 too, as I’ve definitely learned and discovered since then, including the book A Harvest of Thorns by Corban Addison which looks at the fast-fashion industry from a fictional perspective.

Are there any sustainable technologies helping advance the industry?

This is a really interesting question which I wished I had a blog post to direct you to for my answer but alas, technology is part of the industry I have limited knowledge in (alongside the intricacies of Fair Trade, the ethical beauty world and vegan materials) but will bear in mind to research so that I can share my findings with you.

Any examples that do come to mind, are mainly fabric oriented, like Pinatex, which takes pineapple leaf fibres and creates a leather alternative which you’ll see being used by the likes of Po-Zu (the ethical and sustainable footwear brand now headed up by Safia Minney).

Have any other burning questions? Leave them in the comments or click here to submit to my survey!

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Do you feel inspired? If so, perhaps you might be interested in nominating Tolly Dolly Posh for an Observer Ethical Award. If you believe my commitment to ethical fashion is award-winning, click this link and leave my name, link and a few words in the Young Green Leaders category. Nominations now close on October 22nd 2017. 

 

Let’s take a breather on the Lost Shapes x TDP content, shall we? For this post, you could say the alternative title would be – How I’ve Lost Touch with Trends and What Goes on at Fashion Week…

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WHAT I WORE: Navy Livia Jumpsuit (People Tree)* // Printed Jacket €5.00 (Charity Shop) // Clarabella Handbag £33.00 (What Daisy Did)* // Recycled Denim Choker (Yours Again)* // Sunglasses (Topshop – old) // Pink Flatform Sandals (New Look – old)*

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A couple of years ago, perhaps even only last year, you would have seen me live streaming London Fashion Week and scribbling notes down as each dress came down the catwalk; I used to print out the show schedule even though I wasn’t attending and I’d get in touch with PRs just in case I was nearby when September and February rolled around. I was drawn in by the drama and excitement of it all and I couldn’t wait to spot fellow bloggers sat on the ‘FROW’ of Topshop Unique.

Fast-forward to now, if you asked me what the latest trends were, I’d panic and stare at you with wide eyes and hesitantly give a good guess… “The eighties?”, I might say, perhaps I’d even follow it up with a mumbled, “Ruffles?”, but I’d never be quite sure because the last time I really paid attention to the going-on’s of the catwalks and the seasonal trends that trickle down from that, was the last time I shopped with a fast-fashion brand.

I suppose at first I wanted to realise why is this; what made me lose interest? As a designer (2 co-branded collections under my belt, thank you very much), when you research for collections, you often look at what other designers are working on – you look at trends and how past eras and styles are being channelled through into more up-to-date times.

It’s all part of the research and it’s why it wouldn’t have been an absurd guess for me to have said “The eighties” when we went through a whole period of reigniting the decade before that, for a good few years. As someone who can admit that non-ethical or sustainably focused clothes can still be appealing to me (aesthetically, that is), I find it hard to say the reasoning behind my sudden disinterest in these trends is completely and solely a moral one, if I’m still being drawn in by the news that ASHISH are collaborating with River Island.

However, it is true that I’ve unfollowed a handful of my former high-street loves on social media and I’ve probably drowned out a number of luxury designers that I’m influenced by, by connecting with more positive and sustainably focused ones. But, why would that mean I’m now completely out of the loop?

If you’re already a conscious consumer and you’ve researched these sort of things, the answer might be fairly unsurprising – maybe supporting ethical fashion just doesn’t allow for acknowledging trends and the major fashion months every season? It’s commonly said that trends and conscious consumerism don’t play well hand-in-hand; in fact, avoiding them is one of my tips in my list of 10 simple ways to ‘keep on asking’.

If we want to steer the fashion industry into a more positive direction, slowing down trends and how we shop would make a huge difference because the rate at which we produce, consume and throw-away new styles and ideas is simply unsustainable. So, it’s no wonder that trend focused ethical brands aren’t really a ‘thing’ and it’s no wonder my grasp on it all, has slipped. Ethical brands that I admire don’t even tend to talk about trends on social media and collections don’t always get released at seasonal times for the likes of “S/S” and “A/W”.

I opened up this conversation in the #EthicalHour Facebook group and had some brilliant responses, a lot of them reiterating the fact that shopping for fashion consciously is more about long-lasting purchases and shapes and fabrics you know will last years on end.

When I (and others) talk about conscious consumerism, we’re not talking about the idea of not shopping at all (I really don’t expect anyone to wear the same clothes for their whole entire life, even if these Sardinian women have other ideas), we’re simply talking about slowing down – slow fashion, is perhaps a more useful term to use in this scenario, and releasing major collections for every season, doesn’t really add up.

But there are ways around this – if you want to shop a trend ethically, you might find that brands designs overlap with current styles even if it isn’t purposefully. And you can scour your local charity and second-hand shops to find pieces which will match up perfectly, anyway. Trends come in cycles; everything is re-used, just not necessarily in the way we want it to be.

So, it is possible to stay on trend, it might just become less of a priority to you once you start to change your shopping habits and you might find, like me, you’ll lose touch with how fashions and trends change altogether. That might sound a bit alarming but in one way, it makes style a lot more fun to play with – who needs trends when you can dress to look different to everyone else whilst being ethical? Not me!

Do you think it’s possible to shop with trends and ethics in mind? Let’s discuss it in the comments…