ashish

So now that London Fashion Week AW16 is over, and it’s about time we get to the reviewing and reflecting! I might be doing a Milan Fashion Week review too, seeing as I’m currently in Italy (it seems rather fitting). AW16 seems like it’s going to be a good one, especially in the footwear department. So let’s check out what happened at Brewer Street Car Park… (All images via Vogue.co.uk)

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Alexander McQueen // Anya Hindmarch // ASHISH // Burberry // Holly Fulton // House of Holland // Mary Katrantzou // Molly Goddard // Mulberry // Richard Malone // Topshop UNIQUE // Vivienne Westwood

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~ ALEXANDER McQUEEN – RATING: 8/10 ~

Another thing you should know by now from my past reviews, is that I love intricate detailing that takes clothing and fashion to a new level of an art form. I love precision and beading and embellishments and all of the small details that come together to create something transformative… and all of that is within the Alexander McQueen AW16 collection.

It’s very feminine in terms of shapes and styles, with lace bras and sheer fabrics being a key focus, but it still has that toughness running through which I think designers have started to do more and more over the years. It’s yet another collection that hints to space and all things dreamlike, with symbolic moons and stars dotted throughout.

It’s regal and every piece has a sense of presence, and I think that’s most definitely true to McQueen. A big congratulations to Sarah Burton on a wonderful collection, especially since she is heavily pregnant… incredible!

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~ ANYA HINDMARCH – RATING: 9/10 ~

After becoming slightly uninterested in the whole ‘novelty’ fashion theme, Anya Hindmarch has won me back again with a very tech based, Tetris and Pacman inspired collection that makes for a good inbetween with novelty and good old, high fashion.

First of all, I’ll talk about how incredible the show was (on live stream)… the set had moving Tetris pieces that created and an incredible backdrop to the cast of models, which were walking down the catwalk to a beat that turned into a computer generated voice before they lined up for the final presentation.

It was really quite interesting and I love the question of “Do computers dream when they sleep?” that went along with it. In terms of the actual collection, I also loved it. Like I said, it was a great balance of novelty and true designs all of course with a classic Hindmarch twist.

There were Pacman handbags, Minecraft inspired faux fur and a nod to previous collections with the fried egg symbols and the sticker covered shoes. It was all around, a wonderful collection and such a great show, that will be sure to be a big hit next season.

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~ ASHISH – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

Gah, I really do love ASHISH but I think this season was lacking in something. I really love the crayon box inspired idea, with each look being top-to-toe one colour, but it just doesn’t feel as dramatic and exciting as usual. I won’t lie, I’d still like to own most of it, but unfortunately (and I am being very subjective here), this isn’t my favourite collection of the season which is rare for me and ASHISH. It’s a bold move though, with everything being so simple, and for that, I applaud Gupta.

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~ BURBERRY – RATING: 6.5/10 ~

With the news of Burberry becoming one of the first brands to transition from the usual fashion week schedule of see now, buy later, it’s interesting to see what’s in store next. What I think is interesting, is that every look is quite different. There is of course the overall theme of masculinity mixing with femininity, slouchy seventies etc… but I would say that usually with Burberry, you can spot out pieces in different variations.

Perhaps this is to do with the change… with people needing things that are totally new. One big thing you can spot is texture; there are sequins and heavily embroidered garments. It is different, but it’s still very Burberry and I’m sure it will be a big hit to those people who get to have a chance at pre-ordering their favourites.

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~ HOLLY FULTON – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

Another designer who always sticks to her routers, showing a definite signature style throughout is Holly Fulton. Although inspired mainly by David Inshaw’s painting “The Badminton Game”, I can still feel those space age style themes running throughout in a slightly mechanical style… whether that’s just my eyes, I don’t know, but I like it nonetheless.

Intricate, folksy style prints across wide A-line pieces are mixed in with organza creates a lot of drama and activity to a collection that could have been a lot more basic. I love the muted pink tones (I’m a big fan of them right now) so that small addition definitely wins me over.

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~ HOUSE OF HOLLAND – RATING: 8/10 ~

A meet in the middle of seventies and twenties inspired pieces, I think I’m starting to fall back in love with HOH. There’s flapper inspired sequin dresses (you know how I love sequins, but really, does anyone do them better than ASHISH? Actually, maybe they can this season…?!) and laid back fits in the form of loose jumpsuits and oversized robe style jackets.

There’s also a hint to the ‘space’ trend that has already started popping up all over (we saw it with Versace’s men’s collection). I would say it’s a nice nod to the late, great, David Bowie, but that was only a small portion of his career so we should take note of that. I think this collection is one of my favourite HOH collections for a long while now.

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~ MARY KATRANTZOU – RATING: 8/10 ~

I sort of fell out of love with Katrantzou over the past two seasons but I think this one has won me back, surprisingly. Although there are strong, western cowboy themes throughout, all I can think of when I look at each look is; disco. It’s a party collection at heart and that’s proven by the flashy metallics and bold star prints.

Of course the shirt dresses were a big focus, and they will most definitely be an inspiration for the high street, there’s a lot of other things to be looking out for too… like the faux fur coats which is super interesting to see Mary focusing on, especially in such a bold manner. It really works though and I LOVE it. It’s such a fun collection, that you can still class as beautiful and ethereal, just like last season.

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~ MOLLY GODDARD – RATING: 8/10 ~

I love seeing what Molly has to offer because it’s always so genuine and you can tell that so much love and genuine creativity is put into her work. It’s also love to see such a diverse casting of models too… it’s just refreshing. Everything she does is refreshing and I love that.

If I were to personally put a pin into what the collection is to me… it’s a bit like the 2010 version of Alice In Wonderland. It’s dark, mysterious but still playful and girly. There’s bright pastel tones in the form of puffy dresses, but there’s still the full, deep textures and darker shades. It’s a really lovely collection and I’m still totally obsessed with her signature style.

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~ MULBERRY – RATING: 7.5/10 ~

I feel as if this collection will cause some form of controversy regarding the heritage of Mulberry and its previous collections because as you can see, it’s definitely something new… but is that really a problem? In my opinion, no. I think it’s really refreshing to see something new from such a brand, no matter what we’re used to.

It’s still sleek and streamlined and there are still nods to the shapes that we’re used to, but it feels lighter and I love that. I also love the shoes – I think that’s one thing I’ve noticed across the whole of LFW – AW16 is going to be a good season for footwear.

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~ RICHARD MALONE (Fashion East) – RATING: 8/10 ~

Malone is definitely a designer to keep your eyes on. I’ve mentioned many times before but I love streamlined collections that are simple with not too much fuss, yet they still pack a punch, and this is definitely one of them. I absolutely love the use of stripes and shapes. It’s almost nautical, especially with the different shades of blue and the bright yellow breaking things up. I really do love it, and I’ll definitely be looking more into his work.

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~ TOPSHOP UNIQUE – RATING: 8/10 ~

With Topshop comes a very similar colour palette to what we saw over with Holly Fulton. Dreamy, woodland colours (and prints) with a strong balance of monochrome at the same time. It’s deep, it’s dark, it’s mysterious and it definitely pulls you in… and dare I say it, a few of those dresses could be classed as sexy. It’s a strong collection and it shows that Topshop are finally finding their UNIQUE feet.

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~ VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – RATING: 7/10 ~

When I was watching the show, my first thought was “It’s a marmite collection – you either love it, or you hate it”, so when the Style.com review says that too… well, then I guess that’s exactly how to put it. It’s a classic Westwood collection once again, but that’s nothing new. Every Vivienne Westwood show has classic pieces that you can pick out in each line up.

The shows are rare for that because although you can obviously pick out similarities, it always ends up looking so different with such a different feel. There’s the classic neck lines, there’s the outerwear that hasn’t aged a day and there’s the draping… but it’s all new.

Personally I believe there are nods to the cyber world, a bit like Anya Hindmarch, but then I might just be picking up on similar prints and patterns. It all adds up though… every small detail goes towards the next season as a whole, so I’m sure this collection will influence it.

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What did you think of London Fashion Week AW16? Are you excited about what’s in store? Let me know in the comments!

Whilst reviewing and watching over London Fashion Week SS16, I realised that the industry has a lot to learn. I don’t mean in terms of design; I think that’s rather subjective and you can’t really say what’s wrong or right (more, I like that, I don’t like that). I mean more in terms of the actual selling of the shows; things like the atmosphere and the models. So when I watched the ASHISH SS16 show, I felt truly inspired. (Images via VOGUE.co.uk)

~ WATCH THE SS16 ASHISH SHOW ~

If you look at the majority of shows, they’re usually just standard presentations or catwalk displays. I’m not saying I’m uniterested because the clothes do most of the talking but there is just something lacking from it all. The main disappointment really is the whole model issue.

Seeing 30 or more white, slim and slender models walk down a catwalk in a line with blank faces and a ghostly walk, really does put you off sometimes. I often feel like you see the word ‘aesthetic’ thrown around when it comes to this topic but I don’t believe that is quite a good enough excuse. Okay if you want your model line-up to look like a symmetrical army it might work but where is the realism?

This is where I believe ASHISH get it spot on; they have fun with there shows and they make things look more alive in such an attractive way. I know that not all design houses would send their models down the catwalk on skateboards but why doesn’t anyone else really go for it?

I’m sure there are many examples of fun and diverse shows (in fact, I was watching Alexa Chung’s VOGUE series and Body Map was mentioned but that was back in the 80s) ASHISH just seems to stand out season after season.

Speaking of diverse shows; diversity plays a big role in the importance of ASHISH in the industry. Their model line-up is always diverse in terms of racial acceptance, and even genders with men and women strutting their stuff to be accepting of the unisex trend. It’s just SO refreshing and it really does just wake you up when you see it in action. You realise that what we are seeing in magazines or on the runways is just. not. enough.

I will be honest and say I’d love for ASHISH to go one step further next season and cast models of all different shapes and sizes to broaden the diversity, because that would be the cherry on top. But on the whole, I don’t see many other designers making such a big mark on the industry.

Plus, the SS16 show was incredible. It was collection full of such a beautiful mess that just shouted out loud “I DON’T CARE!”. It was a collection for anyone and everyone to express themselves in, which sums it all up really. That my friends, is why ASHISH play a big role in bringing diversity to fashion.

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What are your thoughts on the topic? What do you think of ASHISH SS16? Let me know in the comments!

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As you may know, London Fashion Week recently ended, and now the calm as come, I thought I would do my ‘AW14′ London Fashion Week Collections Review’. Although I preferred SS14 I did find a lot of collections that I thought were quite nice, so it ends up that I have to do this in 2 parts, which is kinda’ cool because it means you have another one of these posts to look forward to! I hope you like it…

Ashish: Unfortunately, I was quite unimpressed with the Ashish collection. In SS14, I was quite simply, in love, but with this one… something just didn’t click. I like the use of casual wear mixed with formal wear, and I like all the sparkles and pastels, but I just don’t really…. get it. It’s a bit plain compare to the SS14, and although it is still absolutely gorgeous, it’s just not up to my standards (#fussytolly). My favourite piece is probably that amazing prom dress though… LOOK AT IT.  Oh and those shoes are a collaboration with Topshop, so I think they will be on my wishlist as they LIGHT UP! Rating: 9/10

Bora Aksu: Oh my. There are no words. Bora Aksu has done it again. The collection was divine. It’s got those traditional shapes, and those amazing colours, and that perfect mix of sequin and leather. It’s perfect. My favourite piece is the monochrome dress (far left) and the grey and white sequin dress (middle). I tried doing the hairstyle and dressed in my ARK pinafore* over a white dress, but sadly I didn’t look as fabulous… I LOVE YOU BORA! Rating: 100/10 

David Koma: One of my favourite shows of SS14 was David Koma, and although I like elements of this collection, I just don’t think it is my favourite anymore. I really like the structure though, and the colours used are brilliant. I also love the use of leather. My favourite piece in this collection is probably the beige dress (left), but I also quite like the collared leather dress (right). As I said, it’s not my favourite collection, but it’s still really lovely and he has stuck to his amazingly structured dresses! Rating: 7.5/10

Erdem: Erdem has never been one of the eye catching designers for me, but this year they made it something special. I’m not sure whether it is the metallic or the intricate detailing on the dresses, but it is just stunning. The shapes, and the colours are beautiful. I could definitely see myself wearing the gold dress (far left). It reminds me of an eagle, and it also has a slight Egyptian feel to it, but then when you look at the other pieces they have a quite Oriental feel to them. It’s extremely interesting! Rating: 10/10

Fashion East – Ashley Williams: I really enjoy watching the Fashion East show as there is always multiple collections to look at. I didn’t particularly like any of them this season, but I thought Ashley Williams had something a little different. I like her use of print and sequins and bold colour as well as metallics. Her interesting way of using the horse on jackets and skirts made me smile as well because it was like they were alive. Intriguing is how I would describe it. Rating: 7/10

Felder Felder: I like wearable collections when it comes to fashion week because what is the point in selling a collection which isn’t wearable? That is why I like this one. It’s simple, but specific things make it different. Like the prints, and the textures. I also really like the shapes. The two piece (right) is specifically interesting because it looks 3 dimensional in a way but it also looks like snake skin. It’s a very clever collection and I bet lots of high street stores will be looking at it for inspiration! Rating: 8.5/10

Fyodor Golan: WOW. When I saw this collection I was like, what?! That’s incredible! It’s like this magical ball of colour and texture. It’s like they are all creatures, from the sea and from on land. The metallics are awesome and I love the OMFG sweater because it could mean the rude version but it could also mean Oh My Fyodor Golan which I think is pretty cool. I cannot pick a favourite piece because they are all SO amazing. I honestly think this is one of my favourite collections of AW14. Rating: 1000/10 (not this again ahaha)

Holly Fulton: This is what I call the ‘Star Wars’ collection. I mean, those appliqué dresses just look so… modern and Star War-sy. But then there are those pastel blue pieces, and the evening gowns. It’s a mish mash and I’m not sure I like it. I’ve never really been a big fan of Holly Fulton, and I just feel this is just a bit odd. Rating: 6/10

House of Holland: I’m not happy. I’m not happy because the House of Holland collection wasn’t that great. It wasn’t anything special. I only liked the really bold colourful pieces because that is my personal liking, but usually I like it all. Unfortunately there wasn’t anything really ‘WOAH’, it was all ‘Meh, seen it before’. Of course I would be totally happy to have all of it in my wardrobe, but it’s just not fabulous enough. Rating: 7.5/10

Leutton Postle: I’ve never actually heard of this designer, but I like them a lot. I would wear all of the collection and I think it is a perfect AW range. It’s not too dark and dim, but it’s not overly bright, it’s just right. My favourite is the look with the orange background on the left. It’s just perfect and I am actually in love. It’s no Fyodor Golan, but it is gorgeous. Rating: 100/10 

I really hope you liked my review of London Fashion Week AW14. Do make sure to let me know what your favourite collection of this, Part 1, as I’d love to know! Thanks so much guys, tata for now! 😀

(All images are via Vogue)

I’m not going to start with the usual ‘If you’ve been living under a rock, you might not know…’ intro, I’m just going to say it. We all know that it is London Fashion Week SS14′. I’ve rounded up my favourite collections from this fabulous week, and just so you know, I did not attend… 🙁 (Images via Vogue UK) *VERY long post warning* < it’s worth it though!

Ashish: I cannot actually believe that I have never heard of Ashish, but it is now one of my all time favourite designers. Uh huh, yup. The collection is full of sequins, and shopper bags. Ashish have said that the collection was inspired by those times when you go down to the shops still wearing the necklace from the night before. It’s seriously, such a me collection. My favourite piece has got to be the ‘ragged’ sequin denim style jumpsuit. I love how this collection is full of different layers and textures. Rating: 1000/10 (hehe)

Bora Asku: I am so annoyed I missed the live stream of this. I was a sleep… -_- It’s utterly gorgeous! Layers and sections of lace and netting, ruffles, plus silk sleeves. I feel like this collection is almost 4 dimensional. It has so much character to it. It sort of reminds me of the Sound of Music, because of ‘the maid’ style skirts of the dresses. I love the ‘pointillism’ detailed print which is featured. Stunning. Rating: 10/10 

David Koma: This might not be the most outrageous collection ever, but, it is sooooooooo beautiful. You might not see it, but in my eyes this is such a thought out collection. It’s so fluid line and structured, and the colour combinations are perfect. I actually smile so hard when I see these pieces, it’s actually quite odd. I also love the sort of ‘guitar string’ detailing which was featured quite a lot. I am just so in love with David Koma’s SS14 Collection. Well done! Rating: 1000/10 (…again)

House of Holland: Gahhh, another amazing collection by Mr Holland. I love the tattoo style prints featured, the brightly coloured checks, and just generally all of it. I love how some of the pieces, are actually 1 pieces, but look like 2 so it makes it look like you have put more effort into your outfit than you have. Clever. I also LOVE the white and orange version of the classic trench coat. Just like Ashish, this is such a me collection. Also, look at that catwalk. LOOK AT IT. So dreamy. Rating: 10/10 

John Rocha: When the first dress set down the catwalk, I was already sold. I love the poppy petal inspired dresses, and the big puffy tulle, oh and the squiggly hats… how cool?! I love how Rocha has really sculptured the silhouette, by outlining it with either petal appliqué or lines on sheer netting (…sorry if you can’t handle the boobies…). I love how glamorous and sleek every dress is. I can definitely see some of these dresses going down the red carpet. Imagine Jessica Alba in the far right dress?! Rating: 9.5/10

Mary Katrantzou: When Mary K launched in Topshop, and everyone went mad for ‘that’ dress, it was like a firework went off. A firework of colour. And, she’s done it again. HOW AMAZING. I want all of these dresses, especially the blue and yellow, and orange, and navy an-. Yeah you get the gist. I love how she has incorporated, ruffles and layers, with silks and patterns. It’s hard to mix so many things which would usually clash together, but if someone is going to do it, Mary is. Rating: 1000/10 (Yeah, you can probably see a theme here)

Orla Kiely: Not a catwalk show, but a presentation. I’m not the biggest fan of the collection, yet alone Orla Kiely, but I like how this has been executed. I definitely think the sales of Moonrise Kingdom will be rocketing when these pieces go on sale, well actually they probably already have. My favourite piece, or ‘pieces’ have got to be the orange 2 piece. I love how it looks, and a panda purse?! CUTE ^-^ I also love the layered polka dot dress and skirt, it’s such a lovely way doing the dotty trend. Rating: 9/10 

Otswald Helgason: WOW WOW WOW WOW WOWeeee. Guys, I think Otswald Helgason may have cracked it. I cannot contain myself. Silk + Prints + Maxi Dresses + Biker Jackets + Turquoise + Pink = ME. It’s such a nice collection! My favourites have got to be the biker jacket and shorts and the blue maxi dress. I don’t really like sheer maxi skirts, because of the fear of flashing somebody when the wind picks up, but the way they have done it, makes it exceptable. Well done lovely ladies at Helgason! Rating: 1000/10 (yeah…)

Ryan Lo: So dreamyyyyy. By far one of the cutest collections. I love how Ryan has mixed both the cute with the chic. I love each and every look, but my favourite has got to be the 2nd one. It makes me feel like I would be the queen of the daisy fields (if that is such a thing) and I could prance round like dah-dah-dah-lah-lah and with bunny ears and all. I lovesssss it. Rating: 1000/10 (Hehehehe)

Sophia Webster: Again, not a catwalk show but a presentation. I found this one via Instagram, and I am a little in awe. It’s sooooo cute! The whole collection is based on ‘Bug life’, that’s why the models are sitting in flowers and greenery. But, guys… the hair. WHAT. I love the pop art style purses! Gahh, it makes me sad for not buying a similar one on ASOS when I had the coinage, but oh well. I think polka dots are definitely going to be a thing in SS14. Rating: 8/10 

Tata Naka: I’d never heard of Tata Naka before LFW, and I now love them. I also, now want to eat candy floss and be at a circus (but not the kind where you get pulled on stage and have to balance on this thing with a sweaty smelly old man holding on to you – this happened to me.). I just love the retro feel of it, but also the nice structured shapes. I definitely think the lovely, Susie Bubble (she follows me on Twitter now, uh huh, fan girling), could rock this collection very very well. Rating 9/10 

Tom Ford: I’ve never really liked Tom Ford as a brand. It just has this feeling of money all over it, which to be honest that’s what it is. But, I did actually really like the look of these pieces. SPARKLE. The one in the middle reminds me of David Bowie in this costume. I love how they are almost walking mosaics. You could almost imagine the models, ripping up the ground and escaping from the cement. I’ve seen a few other collections featuring the reflective sort of style, so maybe it will catch on? Who knows… Rating 8/10 

Vivienne Westwood: Oh wow. You can’t help but laugh.. hahaha! I thought that the other models looked like zombies, but her’s are like, REAL zombies. It’s classic Viv though. She has to make a statement, and she has to make the clothes talk. I love the florals, and the baroque dress (in the middle). British tartan, low cut and gothic looks. Totally Westwood, and totally ‘good’. I like it, especially the models… hehehe! Rating: 9/10

I hope you enjoyed this round up! I’m sorry it was so long but I don’t want it in 2 parts! I will also be doing a little ‘trend expectations’ post, which will be up soon! Let me know your favourite collections in the comments below! WOWOWOWOOWOW I should stop now.